Le perce-vent

I tried Le Perce-Vent finally after months of anticipation. I knew it was going to be on the fresher side as opposed to the typical Serge Lutens style so I didn't have high hopes. I had also been smudging/fumigating sage earlier that day and was pleased to find out the fragrance also features sage with musk and snowdrop/galanthus (this note is missing from English product knowledge but is included in the French Serge Lutens training, for some reason). I sprayed it on and once a while got this lovely fresh ethereal smokey yet clean incense vibe that feels quite modern. I would compare this to fragrances like New Look by Francis Kurkdjian for Dior Collection Privée, Citizen X by Ex Nihilo, and L'Orpheline also by Serge Lutens. This fragrance makes me feel as if I have woken up in a field of galanthus flowers during a snowy winters day along with a few clouds of smoke from sage incense, and I have no recollection of how I got there, a blank slate, tabula rasa in Latin. I was surprised by how long it lasted also, tried it on during the early afternoon and could smell it until I was going to bed. Please update the notes! Official notes: Sage Galanthus/Snowdrop Musk

SL's answer to the slew of laundry musk perfumes such as Acne Studios, 724, etc. This one is frosty and aloof. No florals here. It's pretty brutal if oversprayed, but used cautiously it's an aldehydic blanket of musky snow. It would fit perfectly into the Eaux line, I don't get why it's in the collection noire. So they can charge more for it I guess. I definitely wouldn't pay even half the retail price for this perfume, despite liking it. Update after several wears: I really love this now, I think it's massively underrated. It is similar to those other laundry musks, but this one has a frosty magic that's unlike any other scent I've come across, even other serge lutens scents. It lacks the sweetness of a lot of his other ethereal musks too, which is a welcome departure in my book. It's perfect for when you're out and about busy in hot weather, and it lasts forever.

Le perce-vent opens with a crisp, aldehydic breeze of minty herbs and freshly laundered linen. This quickly settles into a subdued, powdery white musk skin scent that lingers beautifully. I love how I continue to catch soft whiffs of it throughout the day. It’s a quiet yet quite lovely fragrance that initially leans towards a masculine barbershop style, but is ultimately comforting and absolutely huggable in the dry down. I’m a hardcore and unapologetic Serge Lutens fan. The first perfume I ever purchased was Féminité du Bois (then under the Shiseido brand) in 1992, and I’ve owned and worn it ever since. There’s something about Le perce-vent that reminds me of Serge Lutens” reformation of Féminité du Bois ...It’s almost like a musky love child of FdB and L’Orpheline. Whatever it is — I’m obsessed.

High-octane breeze bottled. Think effervescent aldehydes fizzing like champagne bubbles, crisp clean musk that doesn’t whisper but asserts and a rogue herbal sage note that keeps things cheeky and unpredictable. It’s modern, luminous, and unlike anything else crowding the fragrance aisle. The kind of clean that makes heads turn. Polished, electric, and just a little bit wild. If freshness had a personality - sharp, smart, sparkly and unapologetically original - this would be it.

A beautiful, clean powdery composition, gently laid over a spicy-woody base. This blend of notes makes it a powdery unisex scent. My first encounter with this fragrance brought physical relaxation and a heightened sense of calm and comfort. Sillage and longevity are quite good. Even as it settles into a skin scent, it remains beautifully and subtly perceptible. Still, it’s a pleasure to reapply and surround yourself with this crystal-clear aura of serenity.

This is the first SL fragrance i tried and to me it feels so a type a fragrance you spray on when you want to move like the cold wind on a late autumn noon.

The Witch (2015), if it was a perfume. Haunting, minty, musky goodness.

Big Serge Lutens fan here! While I absolutely love some of the older SL releases, the newer ones are not hitting the same for me. I like Le Perce Vent but not for the Serge Lutens retail pricing. This is a minimalistic, simple and clean perfume that doesn’t perform amazingly, hasn’t much complexity and it’s simplicity overpriced. It’s a nice, fresh, aromatic, musky perfume with moderate longevity and rather intimate sillage. The opening is absolutely stunning. So bright, refreshing and green and seems like it could be a fragrance with big sillage. But within ten minutes it mellows out into a musky, powdery, almost almondy, your skin but better type of perfume which smells good, but it’s nothing new under the sun. Season wise, it’s fairly versatile, I think it could be worn from spring to early fall, by both genders and safe office. If I were to buy Le Perce Vent this would be the type of fragrance I would wear casually with a white tea shirt or paired with a sundress during sunny days! Would not upgrade from my 2 ml sample but if I would find it for a half price off in the future, I wouldn’t say no to that. I really like how it’s done but not for FRP!

A piercing wind? No... I don’t think so. I wonder if Uncle Serge is having a giggle at our expense. It wouldn’t be the first time! This is a sweet and gentle scent, not bracing as one might expect of an aromatic with a title containing the words “wind” and “pierce”. This is an uplifting scent, but rather than a brisk wind, Le Perce-Vent brings to my mind refreshing walks on cool, damp early equinox mornings. This scent smells deceptively delicate, because it can actually become very overwhelming if sprayed too heavily! While the sillage is moderate, the longevity is very good for an aromatic. I get 4-5 hours of good wear before this soft flowery breeze of a scent fades to a whisper. This is a lovely fragrance very similar in character to his Matin line of scents. I will happily wear my bottle until it’s empty, but probably won’t repurchase as my beloved L’Eau Serge already perfectly satisfies the “clean freshie” itch.

It's the quieter, grown-up sister of Dent de lait, they're the same genre. Linear, shy, bit aromatic, but really sweet, and more thick than Dent de lait. But they're definitely related. Whilst Dent de lait is more springy-summery; Le perce-vent is far more dark, it's for autumn, or winter. Though it's really a clean scent. The projection and sillage are not the best, an intimate one. Office friendly, won't break rules. Doesn't remind me of L'orpheline; this one is more feminine and not so 'sad'. It's OK but for me it doesn't worth a full bottle; a bit boring among other Serge Lutens perfumes. It looks like SL tends toward a direction with his new releases that is very safe but boring: limited ingredients, linear scents, nothing groundbreaking nowadays. And that makes me sad 'cause back in the old days he was a real 'bad boy' who dares. Now I feel those days are gone :-(

جدید ترین عطر سرج لوتانس برای منی که میتونم بگم هرچی از سرج تست کردم رو رفتم شیشه اش رو هم خریدم و برند مورد علاقه ام میدونمش هیچ ربطی به سرج لوتانسی که میشناختم نداشت. احتمالا اگر بدون شناخت بو میکردم حدسم آتلیه کولون یا مزون فرانسیس کورکجان بود. یه رایحه صابونی خیلی خیلی تمیز و خنک از مریم گلی و مشک، فقط همین دو نت ذکر شده برای این عطر. تا حدودی زنانه است ولی از اون زنانه هایی که من دلم میخواد وقتی صبح جمعه از خواب بیدار میشم ده تا اسپری ازش به خودم بزنم تا سرحال بمونم. آکورد انیمالیک براش ذکر شده که من حس میکنم این حیوان مورد نظر قبل اینکه تو عطر شرکت کنه یه حموم مفصل رفته. یه آکورد پودری هم داره که به نظرم یادآور یه پارچه ساتن سفید تمیزه. این عطر شباهتی به پودری های زنبقی نداره، یادآور چرم و لوازم آرایشی نمیشه براتون. تو ریویو های فرگ اومده که یادآور یه پیرزن تمیزه ولی به نظرم بوی سیسمونی و لباسای نوزاد میده بیشتر.

It’s very lovely. Absolutely perfectly unisex, actually I would put it beyond any gender definitions to a place of memory, peace, poetry. It’s like reading Marcel Proust in late spring, looking out to a wind swept still empty beach, you are sitting in the cafe in a corner table alone, the worn out wooden fence. I have learned that Serge Lutens fragrances often have surprises when you live with them over longer periods and different climates, can’t wait what else emerges from this subtle, soft, nostalgic scent. I can’t identify the notes, other than the fairly prominent musks, yes there may be clary sage but this is not an overtly clary sage cologne. Someone mentions galanthus which is not something I am very familiar with but which is beguiling. This fragrance is subtle not linear or simplistic.

Never thought I live to see Serge Lutens going the way of trends. This is a Lutens version of “your skin but better”, like JHAG or glossier You. Think you meet someone in a friends house, they are very pretty, pleasant but you don’t have a lot to talk. It would be nice meet them here and there, but they are not “invite to my birthday party” material. It lasts 2 seconds on the skin before it vanishes leaving a very faint memory. The perfect perfume when you are in a situation where you can’t wear perfume, but decides “to cheat”. I bought because I collect SL, but it’s very passable.

Reminds Calvin Klein "One" at first stage. Hardly any difference. Also there is mutuality with Davidoff aquatic scents but on the first stage. Middle stage of Le perce vent is quite weird- reminds odour that comes sometimes from some old people. Cant describe concretely what it is..maybe when old people drink some medicine or using some eye or nose drops then that odour is following them. But the base is really really nice. It is the same base like in Montale "Candy Rose". reminds this cold, monotonous, fresh rose. Base keeps on skin over 24 hours and on the skin for several days.

There is so much more to this fragrance than the notes here suggest. Right after spraying, I get mostly fresh mint, followed by musky and metallic notes. The whole composition gives an impression of fresh and piercing cold air, until the drydown settles in. There, I suddenly get a sweet and peachy undertone, almost like a golden sunset after a storm. Like many other Serge Lutens fragrances, Le perce-vent takes you on an olfactory journey, evoking personal experiences and feelings.

It's the olfactory opposite of Écrin de Fumée: imagine a lightly camphorous snow. An airy, frosty, snow-covered world wrapped in a veil of metallic satin. Soft, yet clearing, it's made for lovers of 'clean' scents who don’t want to fall into the trap of boring cleanliness. Since I already own a fragrance in this snowy realm, I’d go for a smaller bottle of this Lutens — I find it quite charming in its own way.

First time ordering a brand new fragrance. Will update when I get the chance to test it out. Update: Very, very clean smelling opening from the musks reminiscent of the Matin Collection. In the dry down, I get more sage and a little more depth. Not your typical heavy SL but still classy and professional. Adjacent to L'Orpheline. Not too complex but very pleasant and safe for the office.

It opens up quite herbal and medicinal, but quickly becomes a kind of animalic skin-scent. It does go in the “your skin but better” direction. It reminds me a little bit of the Issey Miyake scents, but exchanging the aquatic and floral notes for a herbal and mint note. In the dry down it smells like clean moisturised skin. I believe it can genuinely please the minimalist lovers :)

This smells like Cilantro to me, herbal, soapy with a faint sweetness. It's pleasant and inoffensive, save for most occasions

This is the Lutens Mohair report, today covering the wind-piercer (?) Coming in from the north is a recognisable scent for those who are already familiar with this genre, as Le Perce-Vent opens as an almost minty musk, and is likely to remain so for the next several hours. This musk, to my nose, is around 80% or so clean, with only a hint of animality. It will seem familiar to some, as to me it smells similarly to the musk that made up the base of Dent de Lait, but this time without any heliotrope or dove soap. Instead, a tiny clary sage plant is hidden in the depths of the perfume, as if the innocuous herb has been squashed beneath several hundred pillows on which teenage boys have been sleeping. Cue the reference to zero chance of showers ;^) Despite this, it somehow works... ish... taking off but definitely airborne in a manner akin to a blimp or bumblebee. It's at a noticeably lower pitch than Clair de Musc, and indeed is something of a male-r counterpart to my nose. Le Perce-Vent is also more turbid than other clean musks I've smelled, and much MUCH warmer-smelling than I'd expect for the eye of a hurricane, to which it has no obvious connection besides its name. The clary sage does somehow penetrate and inhabit the entire dirigible whole, I'd say, bringing in something which is overall cuddly but in a very urbane, white puffer jacket sort of way. Overall Le Perce-Vent is okay, more so than Dent de Lait but not excellent as Clair de Musc is. I'll spend more time with it and update if I make any new discoveries in the scent profile. Update: Not much has changed, but I've grown tired of Le Perce-Vent and would now say it's not worth much interest... This now makes two recent mohairs (the other being Poivre Noir) with which I haven't been able to get along... hmmm...