Muscs Koublai Khan

How I adore that strong civet opening! Brutal and strange, almost cruel. Metallic, yet warm. Fans of Lutens/Sheldrake will recognize this approach to perfume openings from soliflores like Tubereuse Criminelle and Iris Silver Mist that are scarcely more approachable (although the rest of the scent can scarcely be regarded as a civet “soliflore”). After a few minutes, the punch of the opening dissipates into a cloud of cool musks, warmed by the labdanum that is the signature of this scent as much as anything from the animal kingdom. The cumin is faint but persistent. On my skin, it doesn’t necessarily read as BO (as it does in, for instance, Papillon’s Salome), but does add a kind of welcome savory presence. There is a bodily quality to this perfume, and it isn’t afraid to deviate from a “clean” musk profile, but there are no photorealistic allusions to any specific body part, in large part due to the other through line of MKK’s development: its oriental character. The labdanum and (I think) ambergris—and much later a welcome, cool, almost floral vanilla—give this something of an amber profile throughout the drydown, but MKK brings out the qualities of these ingredients that are usually toned down in more conventional ambers. The tarry, slightly animalic labdanum is for me the most difficult aspect of this perfume. Although on most days I adore it, sometimes it just feels too much like creme brûlée-smeared leather (yes, that is the most negative thing I can say about this scent). The individual animalic notes are difficult to discern. I’m reminded of Mark Rothko’s strategy of layering many thin layers of pigment to produce a luminous, rich swath of color. But instead of “red,” here we have “mammal.” I will say that the animalic accord is not ambrette-dominated (as ambrette tends to read as sweet/lactic on my skin and that is certainly not the key feature of this musk). There is a distinct civet edge throughout, but the musk at other times feels metallic, furry, or velvety. This is not a white musk, but a cool silvery one that delivers a series of almost tactile intensities. In this sense, I think there is a clever play with genre. Whereas orientals tend to be “lush,” piling on resin after resin, here the animalics get that approach (where they are usually intended to operate as a singular accord even if many components are used) while the amber accord remains almost skeletal. Toward the end of the second hour, the rose finally emerges (it surprises me every time!), fleshing out the composition and subtly bridging the animalic and amber accords. For a moment there would be no difficulty enjoying this fragrance for even the most prudish nose. The musks are now furry and powdery, the rose is delicate, almost demure, and the amber elements bring a grounding warmth to this decadent cloud of fragrance. But soon that brazen labdanum and the striking civet from the opening punch strike back. From here it is a fairly long linear drydown until I am left with just that naked labdanum at the end of the day. Occasionally I can detect the patchouli 8 or more hours in but most days I can’t. While not precisely fecal, the labdanum is a dirty and lumpish note and I always have to laugh at how turdlike it is when it drops out of all the other notes after 12+ hours. Apparently labdanum was first harvested by combing it out of the beards of goats that had been grazing on rockroses. MKK reminds me of what that process must have felt like: at the end of the hairy process we are left with this unadulterated resin. Indeed, this fragrance might be better understood conceptually as a study of labdanum than of the titular musks, even if the animalics are much more prominent at most stages of the drydown. This is as close to an “signature scent” as I have. I don’t know that I could ever pick a favorite perfume at the exclusion of all others—could I live without iris? tuberose? tobacco?—but this is certainly a “god tier” number for me. And, despite the myriad horrified reviews, so versatile! I have worn this to the office many times without any comment at all—even when the desk next to mine was occupied by a fellow perfumista. This may cooperate or not with your skin chemistry or nose, but its intimate sillage keeps MKK a personal experience. At least with the bell jar splash bottle, it is difficult to overapply. The composition overall is exquisitely balanced despite moments of provocative extremity. The juxtaposition of warm labdanum with (to my mind) cool animalics ensures that this can be at least a 3 season staple. I find that the animalics and rose blast in warmer weather, becoming an addictive spring and even summer scent, whereas in the winter they hold back and let the warmth of the labdanum shine through.

This is probably the most overrated Serge Lutens perfume - or, maybe I shouldn't say overrated, but perhaps overhyped instead? Either way, my position that this perfume needs to be brought down a peg or two should not lead you to think that I believe this perfume to be less than great, because it is great. But can we all just calm down a bit, please? Let me explain: We've had this "thing" many times before 1998, and many times since. Why would you blindly consider this over musk perfume offerings from Jovan, Coty, or Kiehl's? Honestly, you probably shouldn't; it would be well worth your time to compare to see where your nose gravitates. They are considerably cheaper and will likely scratch your musky itch just as well. How about Musc Ravageur? That's just an updated Shalimar, with a lot more going on than Muscs Koublai Khan, so if you find MKK to be spartan and cold then certainly look to the Malle but MR is more about the amber than the musk (especially in recent formulations). How about Musc Tonkin? MT is sex in a bottle. Though it's not rude, it will make you feel like you might be pushing the envelope of public decency laws. If that bothers you, MKK is more to your taste. Then there's Kouros, the 80s atom bomb of musk, who has quite a bit more going for it than MKK in addition to being significantly bolder and confident. Kouros is still in solid shape even after 40+ years, and it will satisfy your filthy animal needs while adding beautiful lavender and spices, and plenty of attention. (Side note: Sheldrake and Bourdon spent a lot of time together in those Lutens early years, a few years after Bourdon composed Kouros. Did he give Sheldrake a trick or two?) Speaking of Kouros, why not its forefather, Jicky, the OG civet/musk explosive that's nearly a 100-years MKK's senior? Jicky will shock you while also sending you into cardiac arrest with its knee-buckling lavender beauty. Though comfortable, confident and self-assured I am, not enough so to wear Jicky outside of my house; that says enough. I hate name dropping in reviews, it's a cheap cop-out, so I'm going to stop there. I think the point is well-made: there are a ton of musk perfumes out there, and to find one that "does what you want it to do" better than MKK (and for a lot cheaper) is a very easy task. So, why then am I not writing-off MKK? All of that name dropping was necessary to describe what Muscs Koublai Khan does very well, which is to live comfortably in the middle of all of those perfumes. Like Switzerland during the war, it's neutral. You won't force MKK to pick a side, or challenge anyone. It smells more sophisticated than its mass-market counterparts; silk compared to their denim. It is not as much of a lout as Tonkin, Jicky, or Kouros; wearing those will likely cause officers of the law to question what you're up to. It keeps things simple and pretty in the best of minimalist fashion when perfumes like Musc Ravageur have just a bit too much going on for your mood or season, and you just want a pretty musk. Don't believe the echo chamber that MKK is all raunch and filth and animal evacuations. It isn't. Not anywhere close. This isn't Koublai Khan belting a Mongolian war cry while he hacks an enemy in half with a saber. This is Koublai in private quarters, at his most cosmopolitan, ingratiatingly welcoming to foreign dignitaries and scholars to gain their culture and knowledge to help advance his own, genuinely wishing for a neutral, modern, and cross-cultural Mongol nation. The well-judged rose note is perfectly placed to give elegance and beauty, slightly pulling back the animalic reigns, without going near full-feminine-floral territory. Additionally, the also well-judged patchouli and warm vanillic labdanum in the base keeps the Khan's summit relaxed and rich. MKK is quite pretty, quite calm, pleasantly evocative and not particularly pushy, elegant and sophisticated. Muscs de Suisse.

Muscs Koublai Kahn is a legend for a reason. This is the best synthetic musk perfume to ever bestow the fragrance world. But there's more to this than just Musk (synthetic accord). Quick reformulation tip/advice, THE CURRENT VERSION SMELLS IDENTICAL TO THE VINTAGE, please don't spend 500 USD on vintage bottles. I have a vintage bottle and tested the Gratte Ciel version side by side, blotter, skin, it smells identical. This one is my favorite Serge Lutens perfume ever and one of my favorite perfumes of all time, so trust me on this. Get yourself samples of all versions if you are skeptical, but of all Serge Lutens reformulations, MKK is probably the best preserved and close to the old vintage version. Don't feed the Fragcom trolls. Back to the scent. To me, MKK showcases a very true-to-life synthetic Musk Accord. Sheldrake really did magic with this one. The musk is there but there's a lot more going on of course. There are many other animalic notes used here, civet, ambergris, castoreum, ambrette, and lots of cumin. So, as you can imagine, this is quite a dirty perfume. However, we are talking here about Sheldrake who has proved himself again and again, so he doesn't just throw in all the animalic notes hoping for the best. He balances out the dirty facets with very well-placed resins, that sweeten up the perfume, a hint of rose, a touch of honey. He depicts, in perfume form, the duality of the Kahn, a fierce warrior but at the same time a man of great wisdom and tenderness. The perfume behaves in a similar fashion, it's dirty and provocative, and it's in your face, but maintains a constant restraint, warmth, and gentle feel. It isn't as dirty and animalic as many have made it up to be, but of course, it depends on where you are in your fragrance journey. I find it incredibly sexy. Downright erotic. A real legend, from a legendary house. The fact that Serge Lutens has kept this scent true to its original form and that they are still selling bottles when they could have discontinued or reformulated it in order to save money and move more, just shows why this house is still above most if not all niche houses out there. To me, top 3 Musk perfumes ever, alongside EO 2 and Onthamara, those two using the natural stuff. This is just as good and evocative though. Hats off.

Opens with the most high-quality musk I have ever smelled in perfume. As it develops, you get a warm and cozy, radiant amber. The animalic notes can only be detected if you bring your nose very close to where the perfume was applied, and it smells a little like dirty socks. If you were ever curious what natural deer musk smells like, this fragrance is a great representation of it. I only tried this fragrance because I wanted to challenge myself as I had heard it's very potent and animalic. However, to my surprise, this is one of the best smelling perfumes I have ever smelled. It smells like a man. Not a bad boy, not an F-boy, not a red-pilled manosphere hustler pimp with hypersensitive feelings. A real man! A man that makes you feel comfortable and protected to be around. A man that when you're in trouble, and he shows up, you you can breathe a sigh of relief because you know you'll be safe. I don't mean this in any way sexual. This "man" is subjective. He might be your father, he might be your older brother, he might even be your partner, but whatever the case, you cherish this man and are grateful to have him in your life. Other than the initial open, the entirety of this fragrance is pretty linear. It's warm, clean, and musky. I seriously can't get anything dirty or skanky, maybe it's my skin chemistry? Idk Projection for this fragrance is pretty moderate at best, but that's okay because this is a fragrance that you don't want overly projecting. Longevity is pretty decent at about 7 to 8 hours on my skin before it's a skin scent. Now that I have tried this fragrance, it is on my list of must-haves. Sadly where I am, this fragrance seems to be discontinued. I'm finding 75ml bottles from private sellers going anywhere from 500 to 800 USD. Guess I have to find a way to go to France and buy it directly from the source!

For all that is said about reformulations of brands due to regulations, no matter what happens to SL's house, these fragrances still evoke a dark passion that will never be exceeded by regulations. I can't care about reformulations, because years down the line it will continue to happen for all eternity, fragrances will never stay the exact same. That leads me to this fragrance. Who knows if it's been reformulated, I don't care, it's still amazing. I've always been hit and miss with musk fragrances, I like the idea of them but not the execution usually. MKK starts off with a blast of a cumin-like spice before quickly settling in to the musk portion of the fragrance. It's hard to really indicate how this smells, but it smells like heat, if that makes the sense. Like if something is very hot on the stove, not the smell of burning but just the heat portion, again only Christopher Sheldrake can somehow cast this effect into a smell. The musk here is not very dirty, and I think the dirtiest part is when that cumin-like (caraway?) spice shows its face and with the musk can come off like sweaty "parts". But really I think this is a smooth, non-powdery, slightly sweet and clean musk with a dirty facet coming from other sources. After coming back into fragrances, I kind of put this house to the side, but after smelling other brands like Guerlain and Frederic Malle, I needed something that felt like it was created not to sell tons of bottles, but something that has a distinct, Dracula in a Victorian-era vibe; a darkness that only this house can produce. A passion that is unrivalled when it comes to non-artisanal brands. MKK is a great picture of this.

This is one of the most beautiful and wearable animalics ever! MKK plays the most seductive game of hide and seek. The projection is rather low, so you only really smell it if you nuzzle into where you sprayed but you WILL catch wafts of it here and there from your own sillage and it's absolutely intoxicating. While some may not appreciate the low projection, I am glad for it. This is an incredibly personal scent. Not an office scent, not a going out scent. There's no little black dress here, (if there is- it's on the floor). This is naked and raw, full carnal sensuality, not to be shared with "just anyone". It may not be a powerhouse but it lasts quite a long time for a skinscent. I get 6-8 hours. It's rather linear so no major changes from open to close, just hours of gorgeous sexy lived in musk that I enjoy year round. Too bad it's so difficult to get and I'm not sure yet how I feel about those new 100ml skyscrapers for $375 a pop (was it reformulated? I have a sample on the way to find out). For now, I will savor every last drop from the 50ml bottle I snagged on eBay and keep my eyes peeled for another. P.S. I don't think Kiehl's original musk smells like MKK at all after dry down. For a brief moment in Kiehl's opening while it is still a little dirty they are definitely in the same territory but once Kiehl's dries down, all the animalic facets dissipate and it evolves into a creamy, powdery floral, while MKK maintains that animalic note all the way into the base. I guess what I'm really saying here is that Kiehl's is in no way a substitute for MKK and I own and adore them both. :)

There are a lot of perfumes, many famous and gorgeous, that list civet as one of their notes: Chanel #5, Joy, Amouage Gold...if you've got the money, civet in small doses brings a depth to a perfume that would otherwise be lacking, takes the edge off of sweetness and makes it something rounder and fuller, more beautiful than pretty. It takes a lot of brass to put civet front and center in your composition, though. There's no way around it: in large doses civet is mangey, raunchy, rank, dirty...smell a tester of the stuff straight sometime and far more colorful words will probably leap to mind, "ass" being perhaps the least profane of the lot. It is a scent that you will need to think about very carefully before you commit to wearing it. In Muscs Koublai Khan the civet comes on very strong, ahead of the musk, and when you keep smelling to get to the musk, it suddenly pops back up and nails you again. And the remarkable thing is that it stays this way for hours, the musk sweet and pleasant but in no way powerful enough to be the first thing you smell. Hours, I'm not kidding you-this is an all-day pefume. Toward bedtime the civet will finally yield primacy to the musk by becoming a less in-your-face but still noticably animal urine/honey smell. The scent works well with the name, and easily conveys the idea "I am too busy ruling one fifth of the inhabited world to bother changing my shorts that often." I love it, but even I, so fond of pervy perfumes, wouldn't wear this just any place, or in very liberal quantities.

Serge Lutens - Muscs Koublaï Khän Ah yes, the famous polarizing fragrance from Serge Lutens. First of all, do not be afraid of MKK! It's not some animalic beast that's scary or super challenging. No no no. Its polarizing effect is blown out of proportion, or perhaps it's just not as daring compared to other scents that have come out after it. A big part of people's perception of fragrances can be what you think while going into it. If someone hands you a sample of MKK without telling you anything about it, or what it even is.. you may or may not find it challenging. If someone tells you that it's a polarizing/challenging/animalic fragrance... well, then you're going to purposely search for those attributes! Confirmation bias. To me, this is like a... warm, sweet, maybe a little spicy, fragrance - with a bit of halitosis (bad breath smell), but don't let that scare you! It's calming; lovely. A comfort scent. Sure, I can see this being challenging(ish?), but nowhere near Dior Leather Oud! If a warm, perhaps musky, lightly sweet & spicy, calming, comforting perfume sounds up your alley.. then check out MKK! This could be a good cuddle scent during the Winter time. :). Also of note: it feels 'rich' somehow, but not necessarily 'thick'. I can see this being too much for someone, yet, it doesn't seem thick to where it'd suffocate you. Interesting. ----------- If you don't want to read all of the above, then here's a summary in one word for MKK: Lovely.

MKK is fairly well known as a potent animalic, and is described by Lutens as being "evocative of China", taking its name from an ancient Khagan. Despite this oriental inspiration, however, this fragrance has always reminded me of gothic horror and cathedrals instead. Particularly, the animalic musk (which on my skin doesn't seem to dominate the fragrance) reminds me of feral beasts, sniffing around the church courtyard (church from the incense/ amber - which is very prominent in this fragrance, verging almost on gourmand-level sweetness at times) with dusty roses wilting in the font, and worshippers huddled together in fear between the pews. I detect no caraway, and the vanilla is fused to the amber note. It is more cozy/ comforting than sexy to my nose, and its longevity (~5 hours at most) and projection (just off the skin) make it largely unobtrusive. Musks are known for varying heavily not only with skin chemistry but also by nose - most of us are at least partially anosmic to a set of musk molecular species and this, I suspect, largely accounts for the varied reactions to this fragrance. Despite its price, which is now considerable (gratte ciel collection) this really is a heavenly scent. I strongly recommend sampling for musk lovers like myself - and give it a few tries before coming to a conclusion.

I’ve always loved this, but found it too masculine to wear myself. I have an old decant, from a Bell Jar. I remembered it, to compare with Le Labo Musc 25, a decant from the original release. The sour LL reminds me of the Narciso musks which, excuse me, I find awful and unwearable. I’m sure my age/anosmia makes me miss something in NR, I just can’t, I always thought the scrubbers were being overly dramatic, but a spray of some NR had me frantic, and I sampled it in a department store and couldn’t get rid of it except by dousing the spot with other fumes that naturally didn’t work. This MKK, incredible, soft, warm, intimate, glorious, simply blows the harsh, chemical LL into the weeds. I’ll never smell a man wearing MMK in rural Australia (which is probably a good thing🤭😛😄), but tonight I can’t get enough of it on myself. It is years since I last sprayed it and clearly the deluge of unisex has changed my nose. I saw the tall black bottles on fragrance*** ages ago and beat myself away thinking, woman, you KNOW you can’t wear it, what the heck you do with 100mls. WHAT A SHAME. Simply a masterpiece It also smells like deer musk pod of which I have a smear. Maybe the horrors of the foul tide of humanity sometimes need a reminder of the unsurpassed rare beauty our natural world.

Please everybody forgive me but I don't get any fecal, sweat, rancid, camel, disgusting kind of things here. It's surely not a clean musc in the opening and can be quite challenging to someone (a lot of civet and castoreum) but it's awesome. This is MUSC as it should be (at least IMO). Not too rough or rude but neither polite and absolutely fascinating. Maybe it's because I generally don't like white muscs but I can't find a single weird thing in MKK. I simply like it from the beginning to the very end. Unfortunately I don't know many people who would wear Muscs Koublai Khan on a regular basis and if I'll ever meet one I'll make everything is possible to become at least friends. In the drydown it turns to be a bit cleaner and sweet with an animalic note (civet) that make sure that the scent doesn't get too polite. I don't see any particular complexity here but a magistrally and superbly crafted "kinda rough" musc. And really, I don't understand the post-coitum / orgiastic thing. If you smell like this after you had sex I'm Koublai Khan. May 2011 After several full wearings I started to detect the infamous "fecal note". It's there, lurking in the back, scary and threatening but it's part of MKK's incredible charme. Rating: 9.5/10

Let's make this very clear. Every single ingredient other than rose in this fragrance is a note that is meant to be used as accents in perfumes to make them smell intentionally like a human body. Each and every ingredient other than rose is what defines any composition that they're in as skanky. This makes fragrances smell lived in and to many perceived as sexual as its raw and animal. If you don't like the smell of human odors then back away because this is literally designed to smell like diving your face in an unwashed crotch (so sorry that my wording isn't as ladylike as usual, but it's the intent of the fragrance). With that said if you love raw animalics, this is for you. There's no dilution, hand honlding, complexities, or anything to mask, be enhanced by, dance with, or smother the musk. All you have is patchouli to enhance it's dirty feeling and for some completely unknown reason a rose, which I feel is incredibly misplaced. If you like this, find the qualities charming, or have it and are afraid or know it's too much dilute it and use it for layering to make your perfume seam more lived in. I haven't encountered anything like it and am very happy that it's available for those of us who don't want our musks to hide.

Hello, fellow Fragrantican. I see you’re browsing reviews of Muscs Koublaï Khan. As you read and scroll, you may have your interest piqued. Just as likely, you may develop a sense of trepidation, horror, revulsion, and disgust. Do not flee. Do not fear. Do not abort mission. For MKK is a masterpiece among masterpieces, the absolute pinnacle of the Serge Lutens line. Admittedly, this isn’t a “beginner” scent. But it’s not difficult either. Here lies the muskiest musk. It’s warm and furry, lightly tarry, erotically sweaty. Leathery in tone with shades of amber. And my favorite part—its slight but ever so alluring fecal character, a kind of olfactory tension straddling the line between high art and base filth. Like its namesake, MKK rides long distances on skin, conquering the flesh for hours and hours, day into night. Rather than pillage its surroundings, though, MKK prefers to caress its mortal vessel. Shed your fear. Drop your guard. Surrender to the almighty MKK. ——— I see that many liken MKK to Kiehl’s Musk. As much as I love the Kiehl’s, this is a totally distinct fragrance, and I sense little overlap between the two. And for what it’s worth, MKK pairs fantastically well with Miller Harris’s L’Air de Rien.

Two years later I wanted to update my thoughts based on the Gratte Ciel version. I believe the two years has caused it to macerate and be even more identical to real musk. This is probably the best warm musk fragrance you can ever get that isn’t an astronomical price, and if you despise fragrances using real musk, you can enjoy this and not feel guilty. I have smelled heavy real musk fragrances and this is incredibly similar, even giving a hint of “moth ball” smell like a really heavy musk can cause. The fragrance is masterfully tempered and is blended well enough, with a gentle underpinning of a cumin note, multiple musk molecules and a soft amber. I label this as my signature scent although I don’t really have one, but truthfully, I would not be opposed to only using this for a lifetime. You can never go wrong with a solid musk fragrance, as it is one note that anyone can get behind it and enjoy. Although, because it is no longer in the Gratte Ciel bottle, and is back to only bell jars, the cost is now higher than in the past. You are unlikely to find a good deal for any of the bell jar exclusive scents. I can at least be happy and know my bottle is still relatively full because I savor it.

This is THE animalic musk. Like Fumerie Turque is THE tobacco, Guerlain Vetiver is THE vetiver and E.Zegna Ialian Bergamot is THE bergamot. Straightforward, a full bucket of animality: pure civet and pure musk. Period. Some other supporting notes obviously, like caraway, patchouli or rose (a turkish dry style one) that even amplify the animalic effect. I'm in love with this one. This is no synthetic soapy musk you can find in the background of many perfumes. Of course, the musk here is synthetic, but a high-end aromachemical. This is wildness in a bottle. Longevity is exceptionnal (still project at 1 inch after 18 hours...), and projection is moderate/low (great for its wearability given the nature of this fragrance). That said that may not be sufficient for some, as the smell may (unfortunately) remind an urinal cake to untrained nose, and thus offend people. As I said I love it, but I find it a little unreasonable to spend $300 for a wear-at-home fragrance. Come on Serge, drop a few bottles of this on FragNet ;) In one sentence: an horribly priced masterpiece. 30+, fresh evenings Edit: so bad. It is now a skin scent. Already... After just 24 hours... (!!!!!)

In cold weather the rose comes to the forefront of MKK. I dislike most perfume roses but this one is really beautiful. Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake deserve praise for that and that’s only one part of this great composition. The musk is the main player and it straddles the line, like Kouros, between clean and dirty. Somehow it comes off as clean without smelling like Ivory soap. In the summertime, I get more of the sweaty-underpants-scent beneath the ambery rose but it’s always there, lurking. Even if you're not into dirty scents, there is alot here to experience and appreciate. MKK is one of the greats because it’s expertly crafted, so smooth and vivid, conveying drama. Even someone who knows little about perfume would recognize it as rich, luxurious and evoking passion. The perfume equivalent of a Delacroix painting or Rossini opera. The color chosen for the liquid (copper) is spot on: a buffalo hide, a rich curry, a bouquet of red roses next to a leather Chesterfield. It's a multi-layered, well-made work of art. One of the very few perfumes that I will put on just to ponder. And for a taste of that masterful red rose. 5 out of 5.

I have not had the pleasure of wearing this scent myself, but I have smelled it on others. This is a truly animalic scent, probably the "muskiest musk" that does not merely smell like the glands of an animal. MKK is more sophisticated than that...it also has a sweet/spicy/incense undertone which cuts the rutting beast odor and makes it wearable in polite company.The civet is quite dominant, too. However, on one person, it smelled like manure! I suspect that this fellow was not as hygienic as the other MKK wearers I have known, because he had a sweaty appearance, and this may have adversely affected the perfume. I would suggest a "try before you buy" approach if feasible, and apply in small increments to test how MKK reacts on your body. Also, be impeccably clean when using this or any other animalic perfume! Longevity seems to be excellent, while sillage varies depending upon the wearer (the sweaty dude had a huge aura of scent, which in his case was NOT a good thing!). I want a bottle for myself, now that I can wear musks and other animalics without automatically getting a migraine. MKK is, to me, the perfect image of a "dirty sexy musk".

I have dogs, and they love this too. They only like animal musks and food smells, so there you go. The civet note in this is spectacular. It's sweet, too, sweeter than one might expect. Arabie for example, is a dry dusty spicy thing. This is animalic, but rounded, ambery and sweet. I have Kiehl's and the civet element is common, but there it ends. Sheldrake made a high-class blended scent, built entirely around civet, probably best worn in the evening and not over-applied. People anosmic to musk, will find all the hoo-ha rather puzzling. I'd summarise MKK with: you first get accustomed to it, then you might love it, but don't expect strangers to necessarily agree; it'll stay on you, amped up by body temperature, for 24 hrs; it's not floral, not incense, not herbal, not aldehyde, not dirt. It's animalic musk, celebrated just for itself. Human sweat BO has an acrid tang (like cumin) and this isn't it, not at all. I personally love MKK, but then I love Ubar, Private Label and Serge Noire. It is a try-first. And if you want your dog to love you, step right up :)

Well folks, it delivers what one would expect: an unabashedly animalic experience that sometimes quite literally smells like aged civettone. Warm, ambery, musky, and fluffy, it embodies an intense civet essence that borders on humorous in its boldness—almost a caricature, really. Surprisingly, I find myself loving this over some of the Marlou offerings and certainly more than the modern Bal a Versailles, Kouros, and Salome, as it’s not nearly as intense as those. However, imo MKK is far more nuanced than merely a civet scent, revealing layers that unfold beautifully with each wear. It transitions from fur to resinous ambers, makeup powder to beeswax, and from clean sweat and spices to the scent of hot steam rising from freshly ironed linen clothes. The notion of it being a rough, animalic fragrance is also a bit deceiving. Sure, it;s civet but you’re not greeted by a scary, scratchy panther baring its fangs; instead, you're enveloped by the gentle presence of a cute, fluffy creature that lovingly and sleepily rubs its head against your clean shirt.

Muscs Koublai Khan is so ludicrously yet wondrously executed that my heart skipped a beat as soon as I smelt it and I can't remember being anywhere near as infatuated with anything as of late! It's an astute unification of all things glorious about musks, blending together a 60's-70's vintage floral musk in Kiehl's Original Musk with the furry, honeyed deer musk in Marlou Carnicure, backed by a sweet, creamy yet musty aldehydic civet musk in a similar fashion to that of Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin with dollops of the halitosis in Le Labo Musc 25, not to mention the subtly ambery and powdery dry down which nods to Musc Ravageur a little. An extremely intricate and thoroughly thought-out composition! It's hard to fault something as perfect as Muscs Koublai Khan. The opening jolts and slaps you in the face, demanding all the acknowledgement it can get, while you're inebriated by its adamant presence, rendering the wearer incapable of all basic functions.. It is just THAT intoxicating, goodness! The musk to end all musks, in my humble opinion.