Santal de Mysore

Santal de Mysore is an amazing scent from the intensely curry-spice-caramel-caraway-smoke-coconut opening to the sandalwoody base. I love this scent, but I will have to side with those that say that a cuminy spice note lingers right until the end, so this never really smells that much like sandalwood to me. My take on Santal de Mysore is that this is Sheldrake-Lutens riffing on themes that sandalwood suggests to them. And a gorgeous riff it is... it makes me feel like a Maharajah. I have samples of seven supposedly pure sandalwood oils (though not Mysore of course - I doubt there has been any real Mysore on the retail market for years, though there is no shortage of fakery). They vary a bit but are quite similar - a subtle creamy off-dry blond woody scent, a bit like Atlas cedarwood with most of the cedary smell removed. Sandalwood does have an almost magical radiance to it, but I am hard pressed to find the specific note when there is much of any other smell in a mixture - it is that subtle. It has frequently amazed me how often people claim to find sandalwood in the base notes of various fragrances. I suspect that sandalwood (more usually its synthetic recreation) is indeed used in lots of perfumes that list it, but it forms more an underpinning than something you can pick out. To my mind sandalwood is like the down filling under a richly brocaded pillow cover - you can't see it directly but it is there making the pillow plump and inviting. If you want to smell like sandalwood, Eden Botanicals carries a Santalum spicatum (Australian sandalwood) oil that is very close in scent to Santalum album (Indian sandalwood, including Mysore) but is a bit less expensive. But be warned - even with the pure oil, if you dab it on your tummy or the small of your back, you won't be able to smell it at all. Well, I can't anyway. Dab the pure oil liberally on your wrist or your throat (or between your breasts if you have them or your pecs if you are the gender with breast envy). Then you can smell it, though it will still be subtle. Sandalwood lasts a very long time, which is part of why it is so subtle - it evaporates very slowly so there is never much in the air for your nose to pick up. By the way, in case you are prone to retail deceipt, if you find a cheap sandalwood oil for sale, it isn't real sandalwood, though it may smell quite similar since its synthetic recreation isn't that hard, and the very inexpensive oil from Amyris balsamifera smells pretty close too. All true sandalwood species are slow growing hemiparasitic trees that don't yield a lot of oil, so once wild stocks of sandalwood were exhausted it became very expensive. Hemiparasites are plants that derive part of their living by sending specialized parasitic roots into the tissues of other plants, but they also photosynthesize to produce some of their own energy. Mistletoe is the most familiar hemiparasite. So you can't even grow pure stands of sandalwood - you have to grow them mixed in with their host plants. How strangely wonderful that rather nasty parasites smell heavenly (sandalwood) or are traditional symbols of kissing (mistletoe).

Yowzah! Just might be the king in a very crowded field: best sandalwood scent ever? That might sound like hubris, but for my money - and you'd need a great big stack of money to get hold of this, it comes in bell jars only and a limited supply - this one of the most bewitching sandalwood compounds ever dreamed up. It's regal stuff, which gets it 'just right' on all the possible indexes of satisfaction. Unlike so many others who try to do the same trick, it's deeply, deeply savoury and spicy, yet it steers well wide and clear of its rivals' failings. It has none of the dill-pickle tang of Santal 33 or the cinnamon-overload of many other, sweeter upscale sandalwood scents. Certainly there are plenty of aromatic foodie spices in there - and, what's more, some of the more unruly ones, like cumin / caraway /fenugreek, which can all be right thugs - but they never get to rule the show or spoil things. It's sandalwood WITH spicing, not 'curry with a tinge of wood', to my nose. On the Lutens website there's mention of carrot seed, which makes sense too- there's a sneaking tinge of something vegetal, but it's just a hint. Overall Santal de Mysore finds the key to my nose and heart's desires: it's just so deeply impressive, all mellow and rich (rather than papery or raspy) all the way down. While sweet and warm and gentle it never tips into smelling of coconut or flowers, either. It conjures the properly expensive and exotic, rather than evoking cheap head-shop incense or hippies - an imaginary palace in Rajasthan, rather than a backpackers' hostel in Goa. This may be a French idea of Indian perfumery rather than anything more authentic, but my goodness it's just so so good. Also, unusually on me, it lasts and lasts - far longer and more punchily than my usual sandalwood home base, Tam Dao. Might be the styrax, fixing it firmly so that it hangs on, with a deep/dark shadow rather than a blaring burst of spice, for absolutely ages. So: this one might not be unique, there are many many things which are *near* to it, but to me it achieves the perfect balance. I am no expert on the different variants of sandalwood trees, or the precise balance of artificial-to-natural ingredients, or able to sniff out Indian from Australian sandalwood oil blends - so, to repeat a cliche: "I may not know much about (the perfumer's) art, but I know what I like" - and Santal de Mysore is what I LOVE. So : bravo! This is one to aspire to, for sure - whether you're a wannabe wearer like me, or a perfumer hoping to make scents as great as this one day. Living for the day I can find an affordable decant or partial of this.

At the firs spray of Santal de Mysore caravay and spices burst out in a bright and enveloping embrace. They are uplifting, indulgent and sparkling. There is hardly any perfume with such depth and lusciousness of the opening note. There is a sliver of herbal note as well, weaving like a silken thread through the scent. Fragrance is sweet, with a most unusual sweetness. It's not sugar, not candy or cream, - it is something else. It reminds me of mead, honeyed drink of crushed herbs and petals, spiced, served heated in order to bring out the best of aroma and punchiness of alcoholised honey. Sometimes I wonder if it is an oriental liqueur that I smell, but I have never tried anything of this type. Sandalwood comes through as if on a rising tide. Imperceptibly, gently, advancing and retreating, as if carefully feeling the skin that it is stepping on. It blends beautifully with the top note and, adds its smooth woodiness to otherwise syrupy spices, rooting them and balancing out the fragrance, so it does not "run away" into the cloying jam-like substance. This sandalwood feels plush and enveloping, richer than what most of us are used to, oriental and refined. It whispers of the untold luxuries and wonders of the Ancient Kingdom of Mysore (in Karnataka, South India), its silks, spices and aromatic woods, Dasara festival and sprawling palaces of incredible beauty and wealth. Balsamic facets of benzoin and styrax make a perfect base of the fragrance, anchoring all notes in a velvet-like carpet of marigold petals, supporting the theme of oriental opulence and magic. They also give a bit of dryness to the composition, working into the skin and dissipating the syrup gently, creating a drydown of aromatic spices and wood. Santal de Mysore is an incredibly rich and powerful fragrance, with immense projection and sillage, and so one should apply it carefully, as it can become overwhelming and all-conquering with just one extra spray. The staying power is matching, with skin scent easily lasting up to 18 hours. Some will love the powerful top, others - opulent luxury of the heart, others - the subdued richness of drydown. The fragrance's composition develops and unwinds beautifully and is never linear or boring. It is everything one could wish for from an oriental and classic scent, the spirit of which transcended centuries, if not millennia, and now has poured with exceptional care and skill into a Serge Lutens bottle.

I'm revisiting my review of this fragrance, because my first one was quite early on in my nose education. I didn't really have much of a basis of comparison to go on. Presently, I own Diptyque Tam Dao, MPG Santal Noble, Davidoff Zino, Melvita Sandalwood, and SL Santal de Mysore. Each have their own take on sandalwood, all inspired by the original essence but now of course containing synthetic. What sets SdM apart is that while sandalwood is not the loudest note, the accompaniment is delightful and doesn't drown it out. There is a spicy and smoky caraway/caramel/cumin thing going on with a creamy styrax balsam touch. One might almost call it gourmand. Projection is decent, but longevity is a bit shorter than I'd expect... maybe 5~6 hours tops. From what I've read about this, each biochemistry will bring out different notes, so it's best to sample it before buying. I got lucky and find it works well with me. I've got a small amount but will definitely have to get a decent sized bottle. Lastly, if you get the larger version of SL fragrances, they come in a glass splash bottle bell jar with glass stopper/applicator. Very nice, but alas rather exclusive. The concentration is enough where all you need to do is wet your finger and glide the fragrance wherever you want it. Frankly, I'm surprised the overall votes for SL SdM has slipped below 4. I think this is one of the better fragrances that has come out of this house, after having sampled about 8 others. 9.5/10.

Serge, I know I have been cross with you lately. The jist of my ire can be summed up quite neatly: Shut up already. Just make the perfumes. We will take it from there. So perhaps it is fitting that I am finding my love for your house renewed by this offering from 1991. The only fairy tale that comes with Santal de Mysore is the smell of the perfume itself. It opens with sandalwood, a sweetly boozy sandalwood that burns off its sugar fast, and becomes a dry, clean, carved-wooden-fan sandalwood that is marvelously elaborate while still being totally direct. Then, what is listed among the notes simply as "spices" dramatically snaps the fan closed and reveals itself to be none other than cumin, thereby creating the first edible evergreen. I've never thought of a particular wine paring to go with a perfume before, but by chance on the night I first tested Santal de Mysore my husband brought home a bottle of 2010 Middelvlei shiraz from Stellenbosch, South Africa. The wine itself was redolent of sandalwood and made the perfume come alive in ways that leave me without adequate words to describe them. Try the combination if you can and tell me what you think. Wine or no, I love Santal de Mysore and will buy more of it than just a tester. It had excellent longevity and, for being such a mighty perfume, very acceptable sillage-it won't black the eye of anyone sharing an elevator car with you.

My initial reaction to Santal de Mysore by Serge Lutens was one of disappointment and confusion. Yes, the sandalwood was there, but it was hiding under a huge pile of spices and dessert. It was just too much; I found it too heavy, too cloying, and too much like dinner. A couple of months later, I returned to my sample and tested again, however, this time I applied some to my arm and proceeded to clean the back deck. A gentle spring breeze wafted the most amazing scent past my nose. What sort of flower is that? Duh. My nose touched my arm and the pleasure center in my brain lit up. At that moment I understood Serge Lutens perfumes and how heat and wind—two things that usually disfigure perfume—work to break up the heaviness and transform a dense mass of duck fat and doughnuts into a delicate 4D architecture. Don’t just test the perfume on a blotter; test it on skin. Take that one step further and go for a walk outside or turn on the ceiling fan. I like to think of SL perfumes as 3D video—one needs to use the proper equipment to get the full effect, but it’s worth it. In addition to resins, spices, and sandalwood, I’m picking up several other notes that unfurl chaotically in the breeze: there’s immortelle, orange blossom, rose, and coconut. SdM does remind me of Copper Tone suntan lotion, but the kind worn at the beach after the sun sets. 4.5/5

Santal de Mysore is a very sophisticated take on a classic Santalum Album, and while the spicy opening appears to be one of its features most remarked by some reviewers, it seems to me that they are missing the point entirely. To my nose those spicy notes in the opening, most notably that of cumin, serve to introduce the "exotic" tone of the fragrance and they actually enhance the distinctive woodiness of the wonderful base note. Those spicy elements which may appear brash in the opening are entirely complimentary to the delicate beauty of aged Mysore sandalwood, which makes its presence felt as it comes to the forefront once the "spiciness" fades, and lingers on to dominate the drydown. On my skin this process occurs within about 15 minutes - the cumin and related spices fade to a soft background as the real star of the show takes centre stage. After half an hour the spices are almost undetectable as the prevailing note is that of vintage Mysore sandalwood. The real mastery of this fragrance is thus apparent with the drydown, and the subtle beauty of fine sandalwood reveals itself. Since childhood I have adored Mysore sandalwood and have been lucky enough to know this magnificent scent in many varieties and vintages, and I feel that those who judge this fragrance by its opening are doing it, and themselves, a grave disservice.

Comforting and meditative, a beautiful, warm Indian Sandalwood. One of Mr Sheldrake’s finest. A spicy apéritif, a resinous entrée of liquidambar and a plat principal of the legendary eponymous Sandalwood. Not a huge fan of cumin but it works. It’s like an aura of sensual (and sensory) pleasure that envelopes the wearer like a security blanket, tantalising the senses of everyone in range. Remarkably versatile - works for formal, informal, romantic, and casual occasions and wearable by any member of the gens humana. Love it. Also have Santal Blanc and Santal Majuscule but this is by far the best of the three. If you like Santal de Mysore it’s worth keeping an eye out for the Fond de Parfum - it’s the same fragrance in the same flacon (with “Fond de Parfum” on the label) in an alcohol-free base designed specifically for layering, so one first applies the Fond de Parfum as a foundation over which one applies the EDP. They’re brilliant for maximising performance and longevity.

I love all things sandlewood and the stronger the better. I have a sandlewood oil called Swiss Arabian Sandalia mysore . It's a peppery, dry, warm fragrance and lasts forever. Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore smells exactly like this oil except this perfume has a creamy feel to it from the benzoins and styrax. It's a heavenly scent that transports me into a cozy, warm, safe dream world. It relaxes and soothes me and i feel as if i could melt away. It becomes part of me. Im so in love with this perfume! It's the best sandlewood perfume I've smelled so far. 310 dollars for a 75ml is quit expensive but i may have to splurge! I have a small sample that I've been treasuring. I dont know how old this sample is and i hope that if i do buy a bottle that it will be just as long lasting and heavy sillage as this sample! If your a sandelwood lover you will love this fragrance!

Santal Blush (Tom Ford) has been one of my favorite fragrances of all time. When I mentioned this to the shop lady, she pulled out Santal De Mysore's little bell jar and made me a small sample--and dabbed a bit on my skin. I cannot stop coming back to it. It is, perhaps, less wearable than Santal Blush, but so much more interesting. Whereas Santal Blush is sheer and thin on the skin, this is thick and heavy and the spice notes really weigh down the composition in a beautiful way. The dry down is beautiful creamy sandalwood and benzoin. Truly comparable to Mysore Sandalwood. Yes, it is a bit challenging, but if you can make it work for you it's so worth it. Availability seems scarce. Holt Renfrew has the bell jars online, but Serge Lutens' own site seems to be out-of-stock.

First spray pops the question " why would people like this thing?" I left the sample tube in my dresser. One night, a magic creamy sandalwood scent came out from the drawer, which I slept next to. I sniffed around and found it. I had to get bottles in case it discontinues. My favourite experience with sandalwood is its nutty creamy tail that appears unexpectedly and disappears once it is noticed. This perfume is intelligent, as it does not have any floral, but uses spices to create a gourmand scent, which perfectly aligns with sandalwood' nutty creamy flavour. To wear it, I usually spray/dab a little on the inside liner of my colar (winter pajama is a great choice as it really holds the scent). The scent gets better after 8 hours and it is pure joy.

Thai milk curry spice sandalwood, full of oriental flavor. Its advantage is that it is solid, and it does not use too many irrelevant and cheap materials to fill the gaps to make up for the lack of sandalwood. Santal de Mysore is subtle, clear and not messy, changing slowly, from dry and rough to warm and mellow, first dusty and then silky, the ground spicy spice powder rolls and mixes repeatedly in the warm color of sandalwood, releasing smoke The scent of incense, slightly sweet and milky, combined with soft benzoin, makes the smell last forever, and finally leaves a shiny but light bitter mark on the skin. Rich and smooth, Santal de Mysore is more "advanced" and delicious than most sandalwoods, second only to Samsara and Bois Des iles.

In the 80,s I used to wear Gucci no 1. Sometimes then they just changed the concept and Gucci 1 turned into something I couldn ́t wear anymore. Later I found Issey Miyake le Feu d ́Issey and just fell in love! For years I had it. Used it 24/7, always happy with it. And then it was gone..... I ́m still trying to find a fragrance that is so perfect for me and here comes Santal de mysore (SL). There is something with this fragrance that I really, really love: it is complexed, warm without being heavy, changes on my skin and never in a bad way. It makes me calm and makes me smile - I don ́t no why. There is a softness that is soothing but still it is not too "silent". Very, very nice. The only probleme is the price.....

About as niche as niche gets. To me niche is thought provoking and not necessarily crowd pleasing but likable all the same. Niche to me would be walking by someone and being like, I bet that person has a story lol. To me the person wearing this owns a smokers jacket and owns an original Walden pond. They are well traveled and often qoute sayings from the buddha. I myself may not be that interesting. I've owned a bottle but don't seem to wear it often, maybe because I live in Florida and this beauty screams fall or winter. Anyways I just pulled it after I showered and I'm going to bring some with me to my trip to New York. It really is a Indian spice shop dream come true, a master piece

This is one of my favourite Lutens (so far anyway). Yes it is spicy upfront but I find that this takes me on quite an evocative journey. There is cumin but this doesn't bother me at all - in fact I like spicy so it's not a problem at all - however I know that many find this note difficult. Be patient and the beautiful sandalwood shines through becoming the dominant note in the drydown. It is really lovely and not too sweet. Sometimes I find sandalwood can take be too creamy and sweet but not here - a perfect balance for me. I like the journey it takes you on as well - it's definitely not a linear or boring scent. For me it's a great perfume - enjoy...

The most realistic interpretation of Indian Mysore Sandalwood, and still in my opinion, the gold standard for sandalwood perfumes in the market almost three decades since it was first introduced, this stunner from Serge Lutens showcases a real Indian Mysore Sandalwood at its center. This breathtaking central note is surrounded by hints of cumin, spices, styrax and benzoin. Absolutely stunning and resplendent in its beauty and authenticity of the true mystique of Indian sandalwood. Unisex, slight masculine leaning beautifully blended perfume, with moderate to strong sillage and very good longevity. A true classic of modern perfumery. Enjoy!

It is the third sandalwood fragrance that I try from Lutens. - The first was Santal Majuscule: this was all about chocolate and rose, with a subtle creaminess in the backgeround (Sandalwood? is that you?)Not what I expected. pass. - The second was Santal Blanc: fragrance? is that you? pass. - the third is this one: all i get is sweet indian spices, with a nauseating milky background. (Secretions Maginifiques? Is that you?... ok, ok... I'm a little unfair). Anyways, pass. Serge, you're a dear friend. As such, I'll be honest with you: I love how you usually cook. But for a sandalwood dinner, I'd rather go at the neighbor's. No offense.

Its an amazing woody spice bomb. I can imagine some ladies frightened of this power house. I might be more comfortable with it because of being half Punjabi. I might eat curry every few weeks as its not really my thing but I do love spicey fragrances. Santal Mysore has it in bucket loads. Its fantastic to wear on a cold day. To say the sandalwood has a bit of competition here is an understatement. My only criticism might be that I would like more sandalwood. It does take a while for the wood note to appear in all its glory. Moderate sillage and great longevity. You will never feel cold when you wear this.

I don't get the hate, this is everything. May give a slight curry vibe, but in the best possible way. It's warm and comforting, would kill at a ski resort in aspen, the really fancy kind. The only down side is I want to spray it and I have the bell jar bottle. Champagne problems easily solved! I saw this on a couple of my favorite reviewers top shelf and love the sandlewood note, and I love it. I live in Florida so only go to be a nighttime scent for me. But I'm blessed to have this in my collection. Try it, if you don't like it @me

Santal de Mysore is the best sandalwood fragrance I have ever used on myself. It’s beautiful, balanced, embracing and powerful. On my skin, for my nose, it’s also clean. Scent: 10/10 Sillage: moderate, almost heavy Projection: between moderate and heavy. I won’t buy it because santal itself is not my style, yet I am amazed by scent. Update: from the Serge Lutens fragrances I won’t buy, this one wants me to buy it the most. It’s talking to me. It’s one of the most beautiful fragrances I’ve ever had on me.