Tubereuse Criminelle

This is a tuberose... with fangs. When I smell this, I just imagine a vampire with a wicked grin, showing his/her teeth. While Carnal Flower gives us a natural representation of the tuberose, this is a wicked and distorted interpretation of it. The camphorous and mentholated opening is quite the statement and quite prominent, and while it does subside, the menthol aspects stays with the tuberose scent during its duration. As it dries down, you get a very silky, smooth and luscious chilly and beautiful tuberose. It is very classy and very elegant. The vampire has closed its mouth now and you can see it from a farther distance, and recognize its elegance and grace despite the graveness, wickedness and coldness that it showed you in the beginning. But you can still sense the coldness that surrounds it as it walks. In Carnal Flower (the other cold tuberose fragrance), we do get that slightly cool, eucalyptus opening. But it is greener, more refreshing and natural. The whole fragrance feels more green and more botanical, remembering us of the real tuberose. Here, those aspects are amplified and made a bit more severe and grotesque, as the opening is not as much green as it is medicinal and bitter. Carnal Flower remains green and fresh and realistic, while this one, despite the natural smelling tuberose, remains strangely cold. Carnal Flower is a tad headier, while Tubereuse Criminelle is a bit smoother on the tuberose dry down. Carnal Flower is the natural, sophisticated one, while Tubereuse Criminelle is the strange, enigmatic one. The opening didn’t bother me one bit, as I love mentholated and camphorous scents. I found it quite nice and different. But I will say this, and I am sorry if I ruin the fragrance for you by saying this, but it really smells like denorex and bengay in the opening. It just does. I don’t mind it but we don’t necessarily want to smell like we are flaky or sore. Nevertheless, as it dries and calms down, this perfume shines. It is one of the nicest tuberose fragrances I’ve smelled thus far. It smells very real. The tuberose isn’t overly indolic nor heady. It is more smooth and silky. It has echoes of Fleurs d’Oranger, but less indolic and heavy, and more classy and mysterious. Longevity and silage are adequate, since I feel that if this fragrance was any stronger it would venture in the headache department. Would I get a full bottle of this? At the moment, I don’t think so. I think I am more than good with my decant, since this is not an everyday perfume for me or something I’d wear constantly, especially considering my climate. But eventually I’d like to have it in my collection, since I am sure it will stand out. If you’re a fan of tuberose and don’t mind mentholated and camphorous scents, give this a try. But you must like both since both are very pronounced.

Heart achingly beautiful. Words really cant describe my love for this fragrance. I set out to find a signature fragrance around 8 months ago, and tubereuse criminelle was among the first batch of samples I ordered. I was completely oblivious to anything fragrance related, so its somewhat of a miracle that I even stumbled upon it in the first place. Over the next 7-ish months I mourned for this fragrance, obsessing over the 1 mL vial I had of it, cursing its lack of presence on discount sites and its high pricepoint, until I managed to parse through the dredges of online perfume vendors and find a single bottle for less than $300. What a steal. Regardless, this fragrance is worth every penny of its pricetag. It begins with a blast of something that seems almost the opposite of perfume. Its cold and piercing, like a platter of petals smeared with a thick, glassy mixture of, napalm, wintergreen gum, and Vapo-Rub. That is not to say this perfume smells bad at first, in fact its controversial opening is my favorite part, its refreshing, unique, and bone-chillingly pretty. The opening is indelibly impressive, the numbing fog of ice it creates almost obscures the petals delicate scent, which sits comfortably at the bottom of this whole icy atmosphere, almost like a handful of flower petals were strewn haphazardly on the concrete of a street cloaked in a midnight mist. The chilling aspect of the perfume is rather delicate, the shards of ice eventually melt. The perfume shifts from artic to being just above freezing. The cold still lingers, piercing and painful, but not so obtrusive. A moment of thaw, rivulets of water run from once ice-bound leaves, beads of water fall from foliage and frames of homes like artificial, crystal rain in the chilly dawn, and the petals forgotten under the stiflingly glacial mist have a chance to leach their intoxicating scent into the streams of pristine meltwater. The silver filigree covered tuberose emerges at this moment, its petals crushed and bloodied, but still unendingly beautiful. Its narcotic vapors waft intoxicatingly from its bruised petals, a scent equally sensuous as it is brutal. The macerated meristem of the plant sends dainty spirals of green through the blinding white of its blooms. Emergent from the achingly icy clutches of permafrost, the tuberose is all at once full of grandeur, grace, beauty, innocence, violence, and evil. Overall, Oncle Serge did a fantastic job executing the desired concept of giving the flowers back to evil. The sleek black bottle and otherworldly fragrance just exude a certain playful evil derived from something that was once innocent and pure. This fragrance makes me feel powerful and cold, evil and sharp, like I am the tuberose, mangled and divine under the pale moonlight of a winters night.

First, a huge blast of...what? When I close my eyes I can almost believe I'm in the midst of a tropical night garden with big juicy clumps of flowers hanging all around me. But behind those flowers there is a hint of nasty. It reminds me of public rest rooms in Thailand. Not the piss and shit part but they use these little camphor smelling tablets to repel insects that live in the pipes, mostly roaches and silverfish. The smell of those tablets is lingering in the background. And there is gasoline, I repeatedly caught myself thinking: "I really shouldn't be inhaling this". As the scent develops the flower part turns more toward jasmine and hyacinth. I'm also getting mothballs and lots of menthol. And orange flowers. Normally I hate orange blossoms. On me they smell dirty and remind me of tooth decay and unwashed bodies. But in Tubereuse Criminelle they fit in, making their contribution both to the flowery part and to the skanky underbelly. Some hours later things have calmed down. There is a strong note of generic "white flower" that sometimes turns into Juicy Fruit Chewing Gum. There is also a note of mint intertwined. The mint has an interesting physical effect. As I'm not used to smell it in a setting like this I sometimes get a cold little shiver down my spine, or feel slightly unsettled by the cool sensation of it. Like I'm smelling all this flowery sweetness but I know somehow that there is something very very wrong with it. I love how the play with hot/cold adds an extra dimension to the scent. Some associate this scent with vampires, some with a blond bombshell out of a 30ies movie. Impeccable dressed up in a black tight dress, shiny red lipstick on but just wait for a while and out comes the machine gun. For me, I think of Snow White in her glass casket. When you come closer she opens her eyes and beckons you to open the lid. When you do, you realise there is no girl there but just a mass of crawling maggots reaching towards you. An olfactory representation of a beautiful shell with very nasty things going on on the inside. To be honest, even if I was looking forward to trying this one, I didn't think I'd like it. There are white flowers, which I'm not to happy about, and orange blossoms that I seriously dislike. But I love it. Somehow the ugliness of each one (as I perceive it) comes together and builds a very unique and interesting whole. This is not a scent for everyday wear, it's a scent that tells a different story to every wearer.

Criminal? Hardly. Perhaps it’s just me, but I’ve never equated tuberose with the sharp-claws-out, no-holds-barred, “I’m here!”, give-me-liberty-or-give-me-death persona. I don’t equate such strong personalities, strong confidences, rough edges but also smooth contours with a garish egotisticalness. My cat has sharp claws but she’s soft and pillowy, and she certainly purrs when she’s scratched the right way. This isn’t Fracas or Poison with their Beethoven baroque-ness or symphonic loudness, either. Perhaps that’s an effect of my age and generation. My foot down, here’s what you should expect: First is that TC needs humidity. With the correct high amount of moisture in the air a wintergreen note sings for a very long time. This can be a very green tuberose. In low humidity and low heat the green-minty-ness is muted and has significantly less longevity. In normal presentations it gives the whole of the perfume a starkly cold effect - supposedly cold and apathetic like a criminal? Not so, I feel. Geranium is afoot and is distorting proceedings. This tuberose has brushed its teeth with a pleasantly minty and baking soda-based toothpaste; it is clean and presentable and amorous, ready for a kiss with a lot of tongue. In the correct environmental conditions this lasts for a strikingly long time, but in low humidity conditions the creamy, heady, white rose and unctuous facets shine earlier as opposed to later. Do not confuse my assertion of environmental timing as a defect to what you could experience with Tubereuse Criminelle. While the stages might have varying timespans depending upon your environment, every stage is gorgeous and will make you purr just like my cat. Minty and green and bracing, to cool-customer creamy floral rose, to languid and suave vanilla. The last part, suave. Tubereuse Criminelle is like Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal. It’s pop, funk, and rock all shoved into one tightly knit package of suave sexuality and confidence done by a master musical artist with an incredible backing band. Though TC may lack some of the foot-loose dynamism of Michael, the hip swinging is there. I wear TC and I want to grind against my next smooth criminal.

Tubéreuse Criminelle is an extraordinary tuberose scent. Where Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower (the tuberose gold standard for many, myself included) focuses on the bloom itself, TC considers the whole, multifaceted plant, warts and all. It is a challenging scent, sure, harder to wear than Carnal Flower or Fracas, but it is to be appreciated and admired. I adore tuberose scents, and Serge Lutens is one of my favourite houses, and I'm happy to report that TC lives up to my expectations. TC is tuberose-dominant from initial spray, with a strong camphorous opening. More minty than green initially, it is very bold and heady, with the more floral facets of tuberose unfurling in its wake. It becomes creamy and sweet, with the bubblegum quality associated with tuberose evident here. Jasmine rounds it out, lush, powdery and slightly indolic. Vanilla keeps things sweet, but is not syrupy or cloying - instead, it is dry and powdery, present in just the right quantity. After some time, I get orange blossom, uncharacteristically subdued, but adding sweetness to the white floral bouquet. I get some lily-like hyacinth later on, but tuberose is king throughout, with jasmine playing second fiddle. The amber base grows steadily in the background as this scent progresses, sweetly balsamic with an animalic muskiness that becomes more evident as it dries down. There is a warm spiciness to the drydown, complementing the amber accord beautifully, not to mention the tuberose that remains until the end. It fades to an animalic musky skin scent with tuberose. Sillage is strong and longevity is long-lasting. It is a transeasonal evening scent, and is unisex, but certainly is not for everyone. An unapologetic, challenging yet utterly captivating tuberose, TC showcases the multifaceted nature of the entire tuberose plant, enhanced to perfection by other notes that here solely serve to complement the tuberose. At face value, this is a tuberose bookended by camphor and musk, but it is in fact a masterfully-composed, high-quality composition that aims to please no-one, yet is utterly compelling. Carnal Flower is an easier wear, but this is art. Glorious. 5/5.

What a great scent. As someone who usually doesn't care for tuberose and prefers the jasmine/ orange blossom territory when it comes to white florals, I can say this is my favourite tuberose perfume that I've smelled so far (although that's perhaps because there's a massive jasmine in here too). Tubereuse Criminelle certainly opens in accordance with its name. It has this massive, vampiric, hyper-super-mega mentholated opening at the start and yes, this raw camphor start is very similar to olbas oil or vapo-rub. While some people like this opening, I have to say its deliberately anaemic nature (while evocative of the kind of sinister sickness that one would think plagues vampires, murderers and the sort) is quite off-putting. However, this camphor quality is naturally present in tuberose and is present from start to end in a number of other tuberose compositions, inc. Carnal Flower and Tubereuse Absolue, but the Lutens treats it differently. Here, all that camphor is loaded into the extremist opening but then vanishes quite literally in a matter of minutes. I'm really talking on the scale of 5-15 minutes here and there's almost no trace of menthol left, which I must admit is a welcome reprieve, like you've been trying to get to the tropical greenhouse but have had to plod through a nightmarish blizzard first. Once the scent gives way on the skin, the camphor retreats and a huge, soft, buttery, indolic and warm floral takes its place. The tuberose is de-fanged, and a sizeable jasmine lends its soporific and erotic indole to create what feels like a veritable mattress of white petals. And here the scent stays, blessedly, for several hours. After that initial growl disappears this really becomes the warmest and most soft-textured tuberose I've smelled - it's very welcoming, gentle and affectionate, like a pet that has recently been tamed. That Lutens and Sheldrake managed to pack such personality into what can otherwise be quite a shrill or stately floral note is truly a great accomplishment!

"Return the flowers to evil and, by corrupting their thick, milky petals, select from this poison cabinet the most controversial of all female figures: Catherine de Medici, Milady de Winter, Elizabeth Bathory... an eulogy to Lutens’ heroines!" Thanks to this fragrance I spent an afternoon reading about a few historical figures. Winter was an 'uncommonly beautiful' bewitching seductress in the novel The Three Musketeers, based on the historical figure Lucy Hay, Countess of Carlisle who was known for her wit and beauty. Báthory was a noblewoman from Hungary, famous for the torture and murder of hundreds of girls. Her horror inspired the imaginations of many, who conjured the idea of her bathing in virgins blood to maintain her youth. Medici, Queen of France and Queen mother, was the most powerful woman in 16th century Europe. She happens to be born on my birthday. She was known as "Madame Serpent", a cunning political lady. With all of that in mind I didn't really know what to expect from Tubereuse Criminelle. The first 10 minutes or so are minty, menthol, arctic blast that is very medicinal. This comes from menthyl salicylate, an organic compound derived from the tuberrose itself. This is a fascinating note to use, and I personally think it's very sharp and refreshing. This needs to warm up on the skin for at least 30 minutes before it can open itself, blossoming a blur of cool white flowers and a quite dominate hyacinth. Ultimately, it's a pretty fragrance. I really enjoy it. I hope to get a bottle of it. Does it convey any sense of criminality, danger, cunning, vexing beauty or the like? Not really. There is nothing devious or "evil" about this. If this is what Serge thinks evil smells like, then he lives in a very beautiful world. 8/10

First of all I contacted Serge Lutens directly was informed that this, like ALL of their perfumes is a SHARED perfume. I am a big tuberose enthusiast and have grown the flower in my garden for many years and have tried most every tuberose perfume out there looking for the one that best represented the living flower on a warm humid summer's evening when the fragrance is at it's most intense and after the dry down this is it. All I can say to those of you who criticize it for its wintergreen and camphor facets are obviously completely unfamiliar with the fragrance of living tuberose flowers as they have a definite camphor and salicylate character to the sweet creamy white floral fragrance they give off. When first sprayed on the skin there is something that some have described as being like gasoline. I don't smell it as anything offensive like gasoline but something pleasant but it does sort of put a figurative veil over the tuberose so that at first smell you smell the tuberose but it is blurred and hidden behind this opening and then as the the first 10-15 minutes pass this veil slowly drifts away and the richest, creamiest, sweetest most boldly profound tuberose remains clear and strong. Although notes of vanilla, strax, hyacinth, musk, orange blossom, clove, and jasmine are there they are so well blended their own voices serve only to strengthen that of the tuberose which projects with very good sillage for many hours. This is by far my favorite tuberose perfume out there and it is true to the natural flower and not exaggeratedly sweet so it is perfect for us men who are sophisticated enough to pull off the florals. Just another Christopher Sheldrake masterpiece brought to us be Serge Lutens.

Ok, you guys are probably, at this point, rolling your eyes when I make another purchase and write about it. I said I was finished, but I saw this for a steal of a price and just had to have it, as this was on my wish list for many years. With that out the way: This is PHENOMENAL! I was so worried when reading reviews about this that it would be a feminine leaning scent, but upon smelling this, I was pleasantly taken aback. Definitely unisex, but I would like to consider it more masculine. I say masculine because smelling this on a woman wouldn't make me think dainty and feminine. I would think "mature" and "handsome". On a guy, this speaks volumes about his character. The fact that he chose to wear this and not Sauvage or something cologne-y, says this is a discriminating man that knows what he wants and knows himself and could care less about your compliments. This is a fragrant representation of his current mood and he does not need anyone's consent or approval. This screams boss man. Imo. With that said, I received one direct compliment as well as one indirect compliment the 3 days since I've had this. The direct came from a family member that rarely says anything about what I wear when I run into them. In this instance, I was not only complimented but, I was asked the name and was told it smelled very high end. Best compliment EVER from that person. The second person was an EMS worker who came into the room and asked "what is that smell?!". But went on to say he needed it for his apartment and continued talking about it walking off with his partner. Hey, I'll take it. Lol So, I count this as a major win. Albeit not for my budget. P.S. And, typically, I strongly dislike tuberose.

WOAH. I hate to get all melodramatic, but as soon as I opened my sample vial, I really was reminded of something, and it was like I finally found "the one". Well, one of "the ones". I have quite a few, I'm not exactly faithful to any one perfume, and I don't think I ever will be. Still, I feel like I've been looking for this perfume my whole life. I don't know exactly what it reminds me of, but definitely something good. The funny thing is, I've actually put off sampling this for ages. It always looked very interesting, but I figured this was one I'd just smell for the experience but wouldn't actually love, or find wearable. Wrong, wrong, wrong. A La Nuit is a perfume I love, but can't wear. Not this. I could douse myself in this. Anyway, after a year (yes, seriously) of sampling other stuff, I finally decided to try this. I don't know what took me so long, but I realized that I actually really do love dissonant tuberose. I love the eucalyptus in Carnal Flower, I love how loud and screechy Fracas is. Safe, straightforward tuberose? Not my thing. So I figured I'd probably really like camphorous tuberose, AND I DO!! I even love it a lot more than I expected. I love the opening, even if it reminds me of toothpaste and root beer, but 10 minutes in after the really medicinal notes fade, it become downright intoxicating. Think rich, boozy, heady tuberose, with lush jasmine and orange flower in the background. This is also incredibly sexy, something I don't think floral fragrances usually are. If you like the rich, creamy, boozy jasmine in some of the Alien flankers, such as Essence Absolue, you should give this a try. I'm ordering a bottle right now, I don't care, I NEED this.

I simply can't have a rest! This Lutens is dramatic and I can't choose which one I'll wear for my wedding... I'll have to make several entrances in the party, each one with a different Lutens haha. I read all the reviews ten times before daring to buy a sample of it... and I won't refer to all these wonderful reviews that helped me so much but for the last one next to mine: TakeaBiteofMe you know what you're talking! It's impressed me how you explain exactly what Tubereuse Criminelle is all about. Thanks! OK... now let me only add I bought a full bottle of this together with Carnal Flower... thinking I'd use the Malle much more, it sounded more unisex in the reviews and the carnal part intrigued me more than becoming a criminal... but I must say guys: if you're looking for a gorgeous flower to highlight your masculinity or to be irresistible wherever you go, don't look anywhere else, this is it. No single friend of mine has mentioned "feminine" in their long odes to this. Of course this works insanely well on women too, but on men... oh lá lá! The menthol vibe together with a perfect little amount of sweetness makes this flowery jewel stand out against any other tuberose around. I like Carnal Flower too but put side to side this is the one I'll never run out of. I'm so happy I dared to blind buy this... it's seriously competing for top 5 in my life. Serge and Christopher, you naughty pair!! PS: the oh-so-hard-to-take beginning of this scent is a myth to me...(unless they reformulated it?) It smells wonderful from start to end.. agressive, yes, in your face, yes, powerful, yes, criminelle, oui oui oui!

the opening of this is just so intense, it felt like being punched in the nose with a handful of cloves, in fact overwhelmingly in the beginning all I could think of was Euthymol toothpaste, on steroids. The scent in my nose I would perhaps achieve if I squeezed a whole tube of Euthymol into my mouth and some cloves up my nose, burned some olbas oil in the bacground and then smashed my head into an old wooden school desk. Therefore it is with some surprise that I say, I like this. Once that pungent overpowering opening settles after 5-10 minutes, I am left with a beautiful white floral, I get tuberose, obviously, but also an awful lot of orange blossom supported by a clean non indolic jasmine. And it is gorgeous!The tuberose + orange blossom accord reminds me of Do Son initially but this is bigger, brighter, cleaner and more beautiful, and that is from a fan of Do Son. The white florals are very clean and non indolic on me, and remind me of Fleurs D'Oranger quite a lot, but with the cumin switched for tuberose! The supporting notes make themselves known less by being dominant themselves but more for how they influence the florals, adding a touch of intrigue and the necessary depth to anchor those white flowers to prevent them becoming a huge white sail and billowing away. This works really well, I really like this. Sillage is huge and longevity is good. Just don't spray it on right before you need to go out, unless you want to knock everyone out with Euthymol and clove!

Tubereuse Criminelle and I have a long history. I first encountered it at the brand’s flagship store in Paris. After smelling the others on display, I decided to this was the precious bell jar scent I must sample. I was enraptured, but in my jet-lagged, American-drinking-espresso-and-no-water-in-europe dehydrated state, I ended up with a pounding headache. Still, I was hooked. Ever since I have tended to have a sample of this from Luckyscent for occasional wear, but I have never pulled the trigger. Something remains challenging, ambivalent about this scent to me. That, of course, is also what makes it so compelling. The main impression is of tuberose, but cold, so cold. And with a chalky edge. In a way, this is the tuberose version of Iris Silver Mist. But where that scent is definitively a soliflore, Tubereuse Criminelle is more of a floral bouquet to my nose, with the most important non-tuberose players being hyacinth and orange blossom. All of these flowers are rendered in cool and airy tones, perhaps also shrilly to some noses. The floral bouquet is rounded out by deftly chosen spices (nutmeg), resins (lovely sunny styrax) and musks (of the Lutens animal fur variety), all of which add depth to the scent and complement the indolic nature of tuberose without weighing it down in the slightest. Tubereuse Criminelle is a stage whisper, raspy and caustic yet evoking gentleness, and fully audible in the back row.

It's interesting how differently Tubereuse Criminelle reacts to different skin chemistry. Or, to be more specific, how much the amounts of styrax and cloves vary. I wonder if the intention was for this fragrance to be very styrax heavy, or for it to be mainly tuberose with styrax that quickly subsides to the background after the initial blast. On me, it's tuberose, tuberose, and more tuberose. I only really smell the styrax when I first spray it, after 5 minutes or so, it is hardly detectable to me, but gives some depth. The cloves stay in the background as well, but are more present than the styrax, and add a tiny bit of spice and a lot of warmth (which is a really interesting contrast to the icy feel that the styrax gives). Aside from that, it is all TUBEROSE. Gorgeous, heady, tropical tuberose and not much else as far as flowers go. And it gets warmer and more tuberose-y the longer it is on my skin. Jasmine, hyacinth, orange blossom? Maybe they are there, somewhere, but all I really smell is a glorious tuberose with soft spices mingling about. There is much disagreement in the wearability of this stuff, but I personally find it much easier to wear than most tuberose perfumes. It's a bomb, but a subtle one, if that makes sense. ETA: I can't believe I'm saying this, but I think I may have found my tuberose "unicorn". I still love my other tuberose perfumes but... they don't hold a candle to this.

First impressions after blind buying the bottle for a hell of a deal, $89. This is for the skyscraper like bottles currently being sold today, not the clear bottle. First off: This has massive sillage! I may have gone too far spraying my chest twice, my wrist both under and over it. It’s like a cloud enveloping me in its floral paradise. At least 4 hours of this cloud remains around me. The initial spray is what they all say. Menthol Vicks etc but it isn’t as literal. It isn’t eucalyptus and it is the menthol facet to the tuberose note. I get this same note in Flos Mortis by Rogue Perfumery and in Tuberose Soliflore by Dame Perfumery. I smell the tuberose and a big dose of hyacinth, and that’s what gives it the “cold/cool” feel to it. Got the same feeling with Bas De Soie. This cold feel with the most menthol lasts about an hour to 2 hours before the delicious orange blossom and jasmine show their faces. So pure. So natural. It’s much less beachy than Carnal Flower but of the same quality and well worth the hype. I can’t say I agree with the “bitchy, vamp” adjectives that get thrown around here. I myself think those adjectives are apt for Poison. This is quite beautiful for spring and summer, after an hour or two. There’s a touch of sweetness between the three notes of orange blossom (Similar to Oranges En Fleurs by Houbigant), jasmine, and the mentholated green tuberose. Absolutely love it.

revenge in reverse. tubereuse criminelle flashes her fangs as a first impression, as if to test your commitment. camphorous herbal hues of dark green brew in her eyes as she grips onto you, unable to think straight, the clanging of metal growing louder, steel stained with petrol hinting towards drops of blood. the perceived threat dissolves, and thus her venom retracts, with a dusty, tortilla-like tuberose taking its place, treading lightly in its bloom, hiding in the shadows with visible outlines. as the scent allows itself to cling to the warmth of skin, all barriers dissolve, and the criminelle's sweet secrets are unlocked at last! sticky styrax and benzoin burn and bubble from below, adding a smooth, resinous vanillic quality, in concurrence with tuberose's natural milky sweetness growing even stronger. a bubblegum accord emerges, and i know in my heart that the beloved criminelle has relinquished her old ways for good. the foreboding verdant opening is long gone, but a soft, creamy, green quality comes to the surface as jasmine blooms in the composition, like lovely sambac tea—a harsh past now softened. songs for tubereuse criminelle: felicity nowhere by the last laugh, romance by norma loy, living in cities by moulin rouge, sex ads by cold cave.

Questo profumo mi ha scioccato al primo spruzzo e mi ha infatuato immediatamente per la sua originalità fantastica. Comprato nel 2011,è un intruglio medievale di odori che cambiano scenario completamente più volte durante l'evoluzione del bouquet sulla pelle. Si apre con una nuvola di wintergreen,freddo e verde odore brinato canforoso e balsamico tipo Vicks vaporub,medicinale,stregato. Poi cambia scenario e compaiono fiori cerosi dal colore viola/bluastro,sfondo vellutato, sempre pervasi da questo sottile filo venefico di freddo verde e tossico,misterioso,fuori da ogni epoca. Durante le evoluzioni,compaiono fiori d'arancio misti a un elisir di spezie che cuociono sul fuoco lento come una pozione lenitiva,si riscalda lentamente,si addolcisce e si sfuoca cambiando ambiente e sensazione,niente più veleno ma conforto,poi malizia, sduzione,magia e mistero. Fiero ed elegante,stuzzicante,sottile eppure potente,sfuma pian piano fino ad arrivare al color lilla pallido,quasi morto. Dopo alcune ore di incubi e visioni,il profumo si spegne,finisce l'incentesimo e rimani li, con la voglia di ripartire per questo viaggio nel passato. Meraviglioso. Ma non per tutti.

Serge Lutens has created some legendary fragrances over many years. Tubereuse Criminelle is now 21 years old, but it is still contemporary and one of the best tuberose fragrances I have ever smelled. It stands its own ground when compared to many legendary tuberose scents: Love Tuberose Amouage, Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, and, dare I say, Robert Piguet Fracas It’s better than Tubéreuse Nue by Tom Ford, Tubereuse 3, Animale by Histoires de Parfums, Diptyque Do Son Christopher Sheldrake is one of the greatest perfumers in the world and he put his mastery to work with this one. The notes are somewhat unconventional: Top • Menthol • Eucalyptus • Clove Heart • Tuberose • Jasmine • Orange Blossom Base • Vanilla • Styrax • Musk • Resins Some reviewers have said they do not like the menthol or Clove, but I find them adding significantly to whole experience. But the many rave reviews have given the valuable detail to anyone who wants to know this magical creation. It has moderate to strong silage and is long lasting. I think it is unisex, more a nighttime wear. Anyone interested in tuberose scents should at least sample this one.

Tubereuse Criminelle opens with the most delicious shock to the senses: the climax bloom of tuberose, so heady and voluminous, with those characteristic camphorous, methyl salicylate qualities raised to a dizzying level. Think biting into Canada Mints (wintergreen sweets) stimulating the taste buds all over, a delightful pinch to the trigeminal nerve. The camphor makes Tubereuse Criminelle "work where it hurts." Tubereuse enfleurage in pain relief ointment, the petals saturated and distilled into the most stimulating unguent. I love this first stage, but it lasts the perfect amount of time so as not to oppress, and the tuberose flourishes with its more floral glamour, warmed with some clove and nutmeg as the mentholated and indolic aspects wane a bit and a sweet green styrallyl acetate ramps up. This phase feels so much like smelling tuberose flowers it rips my heart out. I could swear I have some in a vase by my side. As it continues its evaporation, the styrax moves to the foreground, chewy, leathery and raw: a perfect anchor for this witchy, cold, enchanting tuberose. TC is chilling and thrilling.

I tend to prefer Uncle Serge's oriental scents above all, but I'm totally smitten by his "otherworldly" florals. Think Iris Silver Mist, Sarrasins, and this, the majestic Tubéreuse Criminelle. All of these scents feature florals that have been pushed to the limit, then catapulted far beyond. Iris becomes an alien cyborg. Jasmine becomes a feral leather. And here, tuberose becomes a cryogenically frozen specimen. TC's initial blast is indeed that—a BLAST! A controversial opening to be sure, but I can't get enough of that camphoraceous, mentholated wintergreen. It's so cold; it might as well read zero on the Kelvin scale. Give TC some time, though, and the creamiest, most beautiful tuberose emerges from the frost. I notice that other users have mentioned wearing TC in the comfort of their homes so as not to offend the masses. I've found that to be unnecessary. In fact, coworkers and strangers have approached, needing to know what I was wearing and where they could purchase it. If this is criminal, well, it's as sexy as Fiona Apple's take on the same theme.

Well, my first encounter with Tubereuse Criminelle was love at fist sight. I was thinking: "this is the ONE!" It's floral and feminine and special, unlike any other floral. But i smelled it in a peculiar form, that is in a concrete (wax) sample from Shiseido. Now i finally bought the perfume in its alcoholic form, not the wax one. And what a surprise! the scent starts with a really strange mouthwash smell of mentol and pine. I understand from other reviews that it is the styrax that does that. It's a very disturbing smell. Fortunately, it dissipates after a while and the beautiful, floral, creamy and sensuous tuberose reigns supreme at last. This is a throughly contemporary interpretation of tuberose, and won't smell like any other perfume, something that I deeply value in a scent. This is the first perfume by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens that i came upon discovering, and I liked it so much that I wanted to know more about the Sheldrake/Lutens creations. Definitely a keeper.

I am noticing a pattern that I love many of Christopher Sheldrake's creations. This is one of my favorite Lutens along with Fleur D'Oranger. The latter was my first love and I only tried this one recently. They fight for my love! The opening of Tubereuse Criminelle is sinisterly dark with camphor and clove floating between florals. It is one part fresh band aid and two parts medicinal balm. Both smothering a crushed Tuberose flower against hot skin. It is done in such a smooth and seductive way that sparks curiosity until the warm, silky, white florals open up. The Orange Blossom is the same kind in Fleur D'Oranger. The Jasmine is the same kind in Sarrasins. Thanks to vanilla, the drydown is sweet, warm, creamy without being powdery, balsamic without being spicy and radiant. Imagine Fleur D'Oranger with no cumin or citrus. It is not the same type of Tubereuse scent as Carnal Flower, Do Son or Fracas. This is a white floral with golden brown edges.

every fragrance is a unique way to take the weight of the world off your shoulders. Let this alluring scent and others like it bring new meaning to your day. Forget spraying it on and being forgotten, let this scent etch a place in your mind and heart that you can always find comfort in. This alluring scent is an incredible fragrance. It is unlike anything you have ever smelled before. The top notes are light and airy, and the base notes are warm and imposing. Wear it for a night on the town, or for a day at the office. You'll be in love with this fragrance, and so will everyone around you! The alluring scent is a fragrance that is an ode to all things living and breathing. With a refreshing top note that is mirrored by an imposing scent, this fragrance is perfect for any occasion, smell-good moment, or place in your life. With notes of musk and amber, your favorite person will feel like twill adore your perfume even more with every passing day.

Currently I have a bad cold and need perfumes that are strong and will cut through my sinus challenges. A few have been up for the challenge: Ambre Sultan, Lust, Seville A L'Aube and this beauty. In a way this perfume is a victim of its own hype and you may actually be surprised that the opening is not as camphorous as you may expect. I did find the opening rather menthol like at first but now find that I'm craving the opening as it is so different to most other scents. It does shift to a green like tuberose that is still potent and then turns to a more creamy white floral. I find in its latter stages that it is quite similar to Fleur d'Oranger. Although when I say creamy I don't mean in the same style of Fracas which feels a lot sweeter to me. This holds a creamy bitterness at its heart. I'm more drawn to this as time goes by I think it's brilliant and a must try. It has a strange beckoning hold and is intriguing - perfectly named.

You go to the art gallery, becaus you love art, and you run across an objet d'art that is repulsive. Yet the longer you study it, the more fascinated you become. It IS interesting, but thank God you don't have to have a thing like that in your house. You go home. You can't stop thinking about that art. It is calling you back, come see me, come see me. So you stop by after work for a little visit. You go home, Day after day, and so it continues. Suddenly, that repulsive little piece of art seems beautiful and intriguing. You must have it. So you scrape together massive amounts of cash to get the thing, and bring it home to display proudly in your living room. Your friends visit, and wonder why you have that repulsive piece of art in your living room. Yet, they can't help but be fascinated,,,, Such is Tubereuse Criminelle. At once repulsive and fascinating. It makes you wonder just what it is they put into that little bottle.

On today's episode of Serge Lutens creating taking flowers back to evil: the criminal tuberose. Tuberose, which many have argued is the sultriest of flowers, takes a cold turn in this fragrance. A mentholated opening, which leads the way to a spicy heart and a hyper-realistic, sweet tuberose dry-down. This tuberose is calculated, knows her seductive traits, and isn't afraid of anything. You never know what she's thinking, and she can be quite the coquette. She's hot and cold, and maybe insane, but she'll warm up to you eventually (remember it's no easy feat). Inspired by Catherine de Medici, Milady de Winter, and Elizabeth Bathory, I expected no less from this fragrance. This tuberose stands accused, and as Serge Lutens once said about a different fragrance, "I command the accused. In other words, I am the judge, and I am in love with the criminal." This fragrance is agonising! It captures the scene of a crime of passion.

I love the opening. If it is a bubble gum, it’s one on steroids, otherwise we all would have had decent childhoods. I love the rest of it too. For many years, I have been looking for the right woman who can wear Tubereuse Criminelle. I have been planning to buy it for her. Then I’ve become enlightened and I’ve bought it for myself. It’s our first day and we are in ever lasting love. Tubereuse Criminelle is not the perfume I’d spray on myself for others. Neither is it one that I’d spray on myself at home or in small amount, only for my own pleasure. It’s the one I spray on myself and I don’t care anymore about the humans. The flower is natural. The composition is unearthly. It’s a psychedelic drug. If I would be allowed to wear only one perfume in the rest of my life, that one would be Tubereuse Criminelle, Muscs Koublai Khan, Ambre Russe, Ambre Sultan and Musc Tonkin. It’s not for those who follow stupid rules.

Ooh Wow! Very menthol, intense opening. Ive got to admit a jar of Vicks vapour rub and a few moth balls immediately popped into my minds eye. Thankfully this eases slightly and then I can just about make out the tuberose with some jasmine. Its so spicy though. I like the way the hyacinth adds some more kick to the nutmeg and cloves (as if they needed it lol) I normally hate styrax but I think its got so much competition that its barely detectable so not much anamalic aspect for Mr. . It takes a while and then the floral notes do come much more into their own. Its at this point that FMs Carnal Flower springs to mind. The combination of eucalyptus and tuberose. I wouldnt be surprised if this was the inspiration for CF for DR. It is pretty special but I have no idea when I would like to wear this. I think it would be limited to when Im alone at home lol I dont think fragrance Muggles would understand.

This is an absolute tuberose masterpiece. Having smelled it throughout the years, yes, the opening has been a bit neutered and toned down in general, but I've always found the scent strangely compelling and comforting. The shock of menthol is surprising, yes, but not as "absolutely bonkers" as it's often made out to be. Indeed, it captures the strangely compelling act of smelling a live tuberose flower...just saturated up to an 11/10. Once the camphoraceous fireworks subside, this melts into the most beautiful and true to life tuberose scent. It perfectly balances this sharp sweet styrallyl acetate smell with creamy, slightly rubbery white petals, more green notes, and lightly sweetened vanilla in the drydown. This is the perfect tuberose--light years beyond the strange bubblegum fantasy version that is Fracas and more well-balanced than the somewhat overly green Carnal Flower.

Oh man, this was a love at first sniff. I smell tuberose, orange blossom, and hyacinth in equal quantities here. I even smell lilac, which is not listed. This is pure, fleshy sweetness in full nighttime bloom. These are flowers at night, but I don't smell them as dark, criminal, or even sensual. They smell so fresh, reminding me of countless summer nights on my back porch, smelling the glories of my mother's flowers. I have unblemished memories of tuberose, nature's most "scandalous" flower - tuberose (and this fragrance) remind me of mothers, brides, home, and beauty. I can smell the soil, cloves, and nutmeg here, but they don't jump out as strange and challenging - they add to the earthiness and naturalistic qualities of the tuberose and other florals. I might need to gift this to my mother. Tubereuse Criminelle, you may have gotten me started on a tuberose fragrance kick...

Finally got around to trying this fragrance again now that its sold in Australian department store, Myer. I wasn't aware of how much it was until I tried it and fell head over hills in love (again). I went to a sales assistant and he informed me, gingerly that it was $515 AUD. The price isn't on review, though. If it was, I'd place it in the 'If I could afford it, I wouldn't find the price insulting'. It's an insanely dirty orange blossom/ jasmine combo with a rubbery tuberose and what, on me, smells of eucalyptus on my skin. I connect it in my brain with Creed's Royal Mayfair; there's a strong mature, menthol coolness at the start that really only gives way to a dry down that is a combo of soft, buttery and rather natural orange blossom + tuberose. I will get this one day. I've been good this year and only purchased three fragrances (all of which were on special).

Oh my! Smother me, mother! Voluminous tuberose. And is there wintergreen oil in this? Because there's more than a touch of Germolene going on here. As Germolene is my favourite smell that makes Tubéreuse Criminelle a hands-down win for me. The tuberose absolute and jasmine absolute are standouts, greasy and indolic and bubblegummy, not pretty or coy but full-on powerhouses. There's some camphor too with the strong wintergreen accent making it something of a medicinal affair, balancing out the white floral carnality. I smell like I've escaped from an accident (or an orgy?) in the hospital store cupboard. Tubéreuse Criminelle might even trigger those with medical-related phobias, though it eventually settles down to a calmer, more familiar thick and creamy tuberose absolute accented with spices and just a whiff of civet. Instant love.

This one is all about indolic tuberose. TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE opens with an intense (and honestly, off putting) camphorous/ herbal/ gasoline vibe which I have never come across in a fragrance before. However, the magic of this one is in its ability to morph into a fragrance completely different from its opening. As it develops, the scent shifts to reveal an utterly gorgeous indolic tuberose with a hint of jasmine and warm spicy clove. For me, TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE perfectly embodies that a fragrance needs time to develop and flourish, and shouldn’t be judged from an initial smell. This fragrance showcases the genius of Sheldrake and Lutens and is undoubtedly one their finest. Like all Lutens, performance is incredible. I get all day longevity and room filling sillage. A masterpiece, 10/10 ⭐️ IG @Nathan__Jamesj

Oh my what a fragrance! The opening smells exactly like wintergreen chewing gum, no vapor rub or gasoline for me luckily, with the spices underneath. I like it. After a few minutes, the heavenly tuberose develops when the wintergreen takes a back seat, adding its character to the floral. There are cloves and nutmeg. Taking a sniff of a jar of cloves, there's a floral quality in the cloves that seems to be echoed in this fragrance. This isn't like any other tuberose scent I've tried so far, it's lush and spicy, while not being overpowering. I've not had a chance yet to smell a real tuberose and so can't compare it, but certainly will if the opportunity arises. The sillage is moderate for me, with a good longevity of 6-8 hours. It works really well in warm weather, though I can see wearing this year round.

A breathtaking floral composition with noirish aspects, this is one of best offerings from the eclectic Serge Lutens line. The perfume opens a bit darkish and spicy with notes of methyl salicylate (sort of like an ointment) which is actually found in tuberose surrounded by hints of nutmeg and clove and gets to its firmly floral heart very soon. The heart has a beautiful central tuberose surrounded by hints of jasmine, orange blossom, and hyacinth. The perfume dries off to primarily the floral powder which is accentuated by a base of musk, styrax and vanilla. The true femme fatale among perfumes, this is a feminine perfume which will actually appeal to bold unafraid men as well. Feminine leaning with moderate to strong sillage and very good longevity. A true classic of modern perfumery. Enjoy!

Stuning tuberose perfume. I can not believe I did not buy this sooner, considering I am a big tuberose junkie. This will probably be my first "buy a backup bottle'' since I never really do that, but TC will be an exemption. Must have this forever in my life. The mentholated effect is super interesting and the tuberose underneath is so dirty that it keeps giving you an impression of being in a mechanic's shop loaded with bouquets of tuberoses and having open Vicks tubs laying around. TC is so good that it leaves me speechless. I have the tall Gratte Ciel bottle. My husband is not a fan of me wearing tuberose-based fumes, so I guess one's paradise can be the other person's hell, but I don't care about hurting anyone's feelings while wearing this, it is that good!

I was in a Dark Diva Bitch mood when I put on Tubereuse Criminelle for the first time, and it was the perfect scent for the moment. The camphorous "Tiger Balm" opening was gloriously offputting. It was like that guy who put laundry powder on a chocolate cupcake before putting it in the trash, then fished it out an hour later and ate it anyway, welcoming the subsequent vomiting as if it were a gift. The medicinal flavor drops off in a few minutes, but leaves its translucent herbal glaze over the tuberose like a green latex catsuit over red lace. It feels poisonous and aggressive and nightmare-sexy. Beautiful and hard, with a six-lane mean streak. Wear it to the Halloween party with your Poison Ivy costume. It will be just the thing.

TC 1.66 oz bottle This isnt a fragrance for newbies. The wintergreen base styrax undercurrent in the opening was great. The tuberose heart and hyacinth keeps it veering into bubblegum territory. The spices keep this warm yet cool at the same time. Leans almost floral oriental. This is sophisticated as tuberose can get, and I love tuberose based perfumes. After the initial blast it settles down after 20 mins or so to a skin scent getting 4-6 hr max of wear. It isnt a longevity star but the interest is sure there. Very very dashing and fun for a more experienced nose or lover of perfumes with a definite quirkiness to it. Done really well. Fantastic to clear up sinuses ;) P.s..not even remotely in the same universe as fracas.

finally got my hands on this beauty... I agree that the opening feels like wearing Tiger Balm, and it exudes the warm feeling. My mom and dad love Tiger Balm, so I'm quite used to this smell... And then it blooms into a beautiful tuberose, but it's different than Carnal Flower, while Carnal Flower is more vegetal, and photorealistic, this one is balsamic. I own Carnal Flower too, and I was quite hesitated to buy this (Tubereuse Criminelle is a blind buy for me), because I was afraid that I'd stuck with 2 perfumes with same scent. But turns out that Carnal Flower and Tubereuse Criminelle are 2 different kind of tuberoses, both are equally beautiful. Great silage, projection and longevity.

Its really not as harsh as everyone is saying, or at least not on my skin. I get the opening blast of menthol, camphor or whatever that clinical, medicinal note is which doesn't bother me at all... After 10-15 minutes the spices take over and the white flowers emerge - green, watery and sheer. I love this part. The end just gets more delicate and floral. Its transparent, sweet tuberose, not heavy and cloying like Eden or Fracas and not bitter and sweaty like Carnal Flower (not that those perfumes are bad, but this one stands alone). The last note is a breath of cold soil. Amazing! Oh and I think I get the Criminelle part, but I think the secret is best discovered for yourself ;)

Oh well I remember the early days of falling down the rabbit hole of fragrance obsession! Whaaa there are OTHER people who see the world thru smell??? What is this cultish obsession about the Criminy?? Oh off to perfume court...crash and burn... Instantly into vivid memories of athletic tracks, our skinny young butts on the ground at the Sydney track...the sting of lime on the grass marking the lanes, the whiff of salicylate rubbing our legs and and always cold windy winter days. To cut a long story short this masterpiece is a masterpiece, indespensible, sublimely beautiful, haunting, it is like trying and winning, my second greatest love after Mitsouko...

is a 2-stage perfume. The first stage almost burns the nostrils, in the foreground it feels like a burning incense , as if it were gasoline. a great smell because it is blended with flowers, cloves and styrax. a smell of flowered asphalt. fantastic. in my opinion, the camphor is also present in a massive way. all this makes it a masculine, dark, gothic perfume. amazing. vote 10/10 the ugly part comes after half an hour when the scent unfortunately turns into a very feminine tuberous strong.I would buy it equally, but I must first smell une voix noir and de profundis and then decide what to buy.vote 8/10. will follow another 2 reviews !!!

This is such a beautiful and ambiguous take on Tuberose! It opens both fiercely cold and burning hot, just like a good dose of Tiger Balm, which it indeed resembles, as others have noted, but totally not in a medicinal way. In the background there is in fact already the suggestion of white florals, which soon, after about 10 minutes, completely take over. This is the seductive stage, and I wouldn't trust myself in traffic wearing this indolic cloud of tuberose, because it is completely hypnotizing. And then, much sooner than you'd expect, the spell is broken. The seductress has moved on to another victim, leaving you craving for more.

Tubereuse Criminelle is the strangest fragrance that I have ever purchased. I really prefer "pretty" perfumes that smell just plain good on me, not like a zoo at midnight or a damp forest filled with elves...or whatever. This is a fragrance that I only spray on my wrists as I made the mistake of spraying all over my neck one morning, and felt the suffocating results the rest of the day. In moderation the super wintergreen opening results in a beautiful rich tubereuse floral that is truly voluptuous and unique. I do not have a huge perfume collection but this is my one choice of a "weirdo" fragrance that I really enjoy wearing.

New Gratte Ciel bottle vs vintage Palais bottle. Similar but with some notable differences. Old one is a lot more wearable in polite society, although still very camphorous, new one should be worn with extreme caution. The new one is my true love. It is much rougher around the edges. The camphor/mint blast in the opening can truly bee too much sometimes. It is extremely loud, severely medicinal. It has a smoke/incense accord that to me is completely missing in the original composition. Murderous tuberose. Embarrassingly indecent. If I ever encountered someone wearing this in the wild, I'd fall for them immediately on the spot.

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (1999) - tuberose camphor - I love this! #christophersheldrake created this polarizing scent and definitely not an everyday affair. Tuberose to me has indolic, intoxicating and mentholated facets. This isn’t your coconut sun-tan lotion scent. The perfumer amped up the tuberose qualities making a unique perfume. Starts with tiger-balm like aromatics such as Clove and Nutmeg combined with Tuberose and Jasmine. Then, the tuberose blooms - more prominent and gets stronger. The drydown is mainly the middle notes mixed with White musk. I recommend to temper sprays when using this.

Wow, what a ride. Starting with a spoonful of syrupy medicine which I find amazing, and not merely from an artistic viewpoint, this very smooth criminal developes into a lovely, dark white floral faintly reminding me of Illamasqua's Freak (...but better). I cannot help but think of an adjective for the person I see wearing this. Mature. Not as in "old", but very, very adult. Knowing who they are and what they want. If you consider wearing Tubereuse Criminelle as a man, answer the following question: could you be cast as a campy supervillain in a movie? If yes, you can, and you really should wear it.

Deadly. Scandalous. Sultry. I feel like a sexy serial killer kind of person. I think of the early sixties, I think of high class galas and mysterious figures laughing while touching their pearls and smoking their cigars. While observing I wonder: are these 'decent' people actually just well hidden bad guys or is it the other way around? There is a ton of mystery and my curiosity & fantasy is beautifully mind blowing. This is quite an experience. Truly creatively and emotionally inspiring. A perfume that just grips and has me wondering if I'm not just having some sort of (wonderful) psychosis.

Brilliant and addictive... This is Dracula’s scent. It’s cold and kind of gloomy but sexy and mysterious. The opening hits to the back of the brain, it gets me high. It dries to something softer and powdery but still cold. It’s so dark and twisted, I’m obsessed with it. I should add that I ordered decants of all the loved Tuberose scents: Carnal Flower, Moon Bloom, Fracas, Narcotic V, and this blew them all out of the water in terms of uniqueness and emotion while remaining true to the flower. After a week testing I proudly bought a FB direct from Paris, something I would never normally do.

Freezing menthol on a thick creamy a base of musky sweet rubber like an amazing reimagining of a `fresh and clean` mens sport fragrance... I "see" pearly white, minty green and.... dark cherry red. More MEN need to try this out! I wear it out often and have had nothing but positive comments. If this is a womanly white floral, then Dior Homme is a grandmotherly powdery iris. That said, if you're worrying and fretting `Will girls like this??` or `Will guys like this??` I don't think Tubereuse Criminelle is for you. A very modern classic in my opinion. Sarcastic, sexy and a little mean.