Vetiver Oriental

1. History I first encountered Serge Lutens in the early 2000s in Beirut: a friend had Vetiver Oriental sitting on a shelf in his bathroom. I am extremely picky when it comes to fragrance - extremely. Worse, I cannot wear anything that is even slightly chemical. When Vetiver Oriental struck my senses I was transported. For several years that was all I wore - until Serge Lutens discontinued it except in the Paris store, which was inaccessible to me. Now I'm in Hong Kong, and yesterday I found a big 100 ml bottle of Vetiver Oriental sitting like a vision in the Lane Crawford boutique. I couldn't believe it. And the price was far less than I expected: 1500 hkd ($190 US). Sold! My only concern: has the formula changed, or my sense of smell altered as I've grown older? I think both may be true, but not enough to be significant. I know I have the same relationship with this fragrance as in the 2000s. When I forget it, become absorbed in my work, and then resurface, I find myself thinking, "What a wonderful scent that is," which is exactly my habitual thinking in the old days. 2. Investigate A word of caution: When first trying this fragrance be patient; the scent after the dry down is dramatically different. Patience is rewarded. 3. Impressions I'm not versed in the vocabulary of the perfume world, but I can say that Vetiver Oriental is one of those precious scents that crosses cultures and times. It is definitely on the spice side; there is no clear floral note, in my opinion. My impression is of bags of spice in a grand bazaar in Istanbul or Damascus, or in a backstreet shop in Singapore - somewhere along the fault line where East meets West. 4. Comparison and Contrast Until yesterday I had been relying on other Serge Lutens fragrances, and my favorite of those is Arabie. I plan to alternate between Vetiver and Arabie for the coming year. Two years ago I bit the bullet and bought Amouage Jubilation for men. After reading many reviews on this website I suspect the company altered the formula (there's no clear evidence that this is the so) and I wonder if I would have been happy with the first edition. In any case, I found Jubilation far too strong for me, overpowering really, and I could not solve the problem because even the tiniest spray or dab set the world spinning round. Vetiver can also be overpowering, but I give it a half spray at most (the 100ml spray delivers much more than the 50ml), and that works just fine. Finally I should add that I tried the Ambre Sultan yesterday in comparing it to the Vetiver; it is a beautiful, rich, complex, strong scent, but leaning more toward the exaggerated posture of Jubilation, so I gave it a pass with all due respect. Maybe I'll come back to it later. 5. Happiness? I thought Vetiver Oriental from Serge Lutens was gone for good, or at least out of my reach and budget in Paris. I thought it might have changed formula and been a love passing in a crowded train station never to be seen again. Reunion could not be sweeter, and my only concern now is that I must continue being detached from this earthly existence. No doubt the purest, most elegant and transporting scents in this world are but pale shadows of those in the next. 6. One week later: It was too good to be true.I'm getting a consistent reaction in my sinuses when I use this fragrance, and the sillage is far stronger than the original that I remember from the early 2000s. I'm fairly sure now that SL changed the formula, and that's a shame. I will experiment further with much smaller amounts and see if that solves the problem, but if not, I'll have to give it up. I end here to go wash it off, something I never did with the original Vetiver.

If you like vetiver, this is one of the best in my opinion. On first spray, you get quite a strong vetiver that fizzes on the skin. This slows down and for a while is accompanied by an oily, gently rubbery guaiac wood. I usually struggle with Guaiac wood in fragrances if I'm honest, but it's okay here. I'm not sure I'd be so happy with this if it hung around, but after about 30 minutes, it fades right out to the backseat of the composition, replaced instead by possibly the most beautiful sandalwood I've ever smelt. It's dry, warm and fresh, more like a wood shop than any incense. This is also alongside the emergence of a rich, dark chocolate. The chocolate to me is more abstract than I was expecting. I feel like throughout the wear, it's more of a suggestion of chocolate rather than an obvious, gourmand chocolate. There are some ever so slight, gentle florals, and a hint of a powdery iris note that shows up briefly, but for the most part, they don't crowd the stage and bow out after a couple of hours. At this point, for me, the scent is more or less linear, with no great changes, all chocolate, woods and vetiver, with some balsamic, ambery sweetness to keep it interesting. But that description is far, far too simple. This fragrance has an incredible duality, whilst remaining completely wearable throughout. It is at once dry and sophisticated and sweet and playful at the same time. It flits between the two faces wonderfully and not in a typical "unisex" way, as in the fragrance as a whole takes on the particular gender, it literally swings between masculine and feminine depending on which notes catch you in the air. It's really something special to experience. It's strictly black tie only but can be total rock and roll, constantly subverting itself just when you feel like you have the measure of it. When it feels black tie, it almost makes me feel bad for wearing it in a pair of jeans and when it flips and feels more relaxed, it just kills it, feeling like pure casual class. The blend of these two faces is really something special here and elevates it beyond your average vetiver fragrance. I think the way it wears like this, it is appropriate for any occasion, though it still feels a bit too classy for casual wear for me. This is more for a dressed up affair, whether that be work or play. It would absolutely kill on a date night, but I don't know if I would wear it for a first date as it has quite a unique character, it would really depend on the situation. As far as gender goes, the subtle oakmoss, woods and vetiver nail this hard as masculine, but as I say, it flips equally feminine with soft, rich chocolate and balsamic notes. I think it can be unisex and I also think this would be very sexy on a woman, but you'd want to be pretty confident in your style. As long as you own the fragrance and don't let it dominate I think it would work. Honestly, I think that applies to both male and female here. Performance is INSANE. two sprays are enough, will net you a decent sillage and won't be overpowering, which honestly I think could be easily done. I sprayed this on at 10am before heading to work and went straight out when I finished, I got home at 3 in the morning, crashed out on the bed and woke up the next morning at 8am and I could still smell it like I just sprayed it. Even after I got out of the shower after waking up that morning, I could still smell it. Mental. I could go on, but I won't. Unbelievable scent.

A Very Peculiar Vetiver. As a passionate lover of woody fragrances with an Oriental character, I was absolutely captivated from the first moment I inhaled Vetiver on my skin. The structure of this exquisite woody perfume reveals itself with green, herbal-aromatic, slightly spicy and subtly bitter accords (possibly also containing Artemisia). This captivating opening is joined by delicate woody and powdery notes of iris, combined with floral and smoky nuances from guaiac wood. These accords envelop the vetiver, timidly intertwined with an elegant touch of chocolate, and the floral accords, resulting in a harmonious and refined composition. Sandalwood is neither creamy nor sweet; however, it brings a slightly dry warmth, perfectly complementing the woods and the green and earthy moss. Vetiver remains present throughout the fragrance's evolution, becoming softer. Sweetened by ambery, musky and resinous labdanum accords. Imparting depth and warmth to the last phase. As with all Lutens creations, Vetiver smells very realistic and of great quality! In my opinion, it is a unique fragrance, out of the ordinary. It may be somewhat ambivalent to some, and it probably requires an acquired taste to fully appreciate this masterpiece. Personally, it won me over from the first spray. Substantivity on my skin reaches 10 hours. Diffusion is moderate.

Vetiver Oriental is opulent, deep and rich yet very intimate and personal. It's oily yet dry at the same time. It doesn't need to scream to be heard or appreciated. It whispers quietly and confidently. It's very resinous, powdery, dry and spicy. This isn't a sweet fragrance by any stretch but it does have a bitter sweet quality from the chocolate and vetiver. The vetiver is there however it isn't the main player. The main players for me are the chocolate, sandalwood, amber and labdanum. The interplay between these notes create the dry, resinous, spicy feel that I described earlier. This reminds me of a more refined version of a few fragrances I've owned and smelt in the past namely: M7 Oud Absolu by YSL, L'Instant de Guerlain, Prada Amber Pour Homme intense and Noir Eau de Toilette by Tom Ford. If you're familiar with any of those fragrances, you'll have an idea of how Vetiver Oriental smells. While I agree that you should wear what you like, when you like, I think this compliments the mature, self assured, well polished, well manicured gentleman nicely. It has staying power but doesn't project very well. I can smell it easily on me for the majority of it's wearing but I'm not sure those around me can detect it. It leans more masculine however, a woman could easily pull this off. This will also do well in cooler weather.

In the lineup of popular vetiver fragrances, this one stands in it's own corner near the "gourmand" category. I really do pick out the chocolate note in this. And it works so well with the vetiver, oakmoss, and guaiac wood, much like the way chocolate drives a mole sauce. It's sweeter in the start with a powdery iris garnish and then settles into the dry down. Delicious! Beautiful contrast to something salty and sour like Etro Vetiver. In fact, I've worn both, one on each arm, and enjoy the contrasts. But sadly, this is one of those fragrances that wears close to the skin. Not much in projection here. Longevity is below average as well... seemingly so, until you warm up your skin with activity and catch fleeting whiffs of it still there. Honestly, if the formulation had a stronger base to it that would project and last about 50% more, I'd be willing to spend $135 for a full 50ml bottle (about the going rate on resale). Alas... I'm not sure it is worth it. I managed to blind buy a half full 50ml bottle for a good discount, so I didn't take a full purchase chance. But would I buy a full bottle now? Not sure... I think I'm going to sip this one... and savor it until the end and see how I feel then. I would very likely buy a full bottle if found for under $120. Fragrance: 8.9 Longevity: 6.3 Value 7.2

Oh I love this! It was a grey market blind buy because I have to travel 50 miles now if I ever want to test any Serge Lutens. It’s green woody & a little bit smoky. The chocolate in this is kinda dry/dusty, more like an organic cocoa powder, & it’s mostly noticeable in the top notes. So, if you’re seeking something with a big or gourmand sweet chocolate note, then pass. I can’t really detect iris, if I’m honest. Anyway, for me VO was a bit of a quiet “grower” the more I wear the more I appreciate it. Sometimes the “growers” (for me) end up being the most wearable & loved. VO is quite a subtle/muted sort of fragrance, but longevity is great. I find it beautiful in cold weather, feels like a lovely balance of woody green warmth with a little bit of sweetness. I don’t care about feminine/masculine gender assignment, but I think some would say it leans masculine. I really wish Serge hadn’t gone so “ultra” niche. Until a few years ago this brand was (imo) THE best for fantastic quality, unusual perfumes for a reasonable (or at least do-able) price. I’ve not tried any of the newer Lutens, & their higher prices prohibit blind buy for me now. Shame, I feel they’ve become much less accessible to me.

Next to Musc Ravageur, this is one of my favorite fragrances. I wore this perfume forever 'til I discovered Musc Ravageur-smile. I agree with so many others who state that Luten’s Vetiver Oriental is a lovely, soothing, soft Vetiver scent. Yes, it IS a vetiver but as another poster so perfectly stated, it is vetiver without the edge. Frankly, when worn by me, many vetiver fragrances simply smell like cheap men's cologne. The immediate grassy-ness and woody-ness of most vetivers usually overwhelm my senses. But with this vetiver, I do not experience that sensation. This vetiver has a beautiful, smooth, creamy richness to it with hints of leather, greens, wood and a wee-bit of powder, which gives it the slightest sweetness. Also, some of the "softer" and less edgy vetivers tend to be too "powdery" for my taste and Vetiver Oriental is certainly not powdery at all. This is a very pretty, feminine fragrance with good lasting powder. One last thing...I cannot imagine a man wearing this fragrance...it just seems way too feminine for a guy, IMHO! But, if that sort of thing doesn't bother you, it would be okay on a guy, too!

A fragrance based on a very peculiar Vetiver. It opens very green, aromatic, slightly spicy and bitter, but with little sweet whiffs (I think it may also contain tarragon. Or so my nose detects here). To all this are added soft powdery notes of iris. Giving way to a woody, mossy, somewhat dry heart. Vetiver stands out in a subtle and elegant way. The chocolate shyly accompanies it. With the passing of the hours it becomes softer and more earthy. Sweetened in amber and labdanum. Providing heat when drying. Like all Lutens it smells very realistic and of great quality! A unique Vetiver, out of the ordinary. It may turn out to be a somewhat ambivalent fragrance for some people and you may definitely need an acquired taste to appreciate this masterpiece. The substantivity on my skin reaches 10 hours. Diffusion is moderate. ORIENTAL VETIVER, in my opinion is totally unisex, daring, beautiful and mysterious!

One of my favorite Serge Lutens and my favorite vetiver by far. It’s all in the name. It is a tried and true Oriental structure but the twist is that vetiver replaces the fresh citrus accord used to cut the heavy sweetness. To this accord it contributes a lovely tang and acid like fresh strawberry and kiwi in a heavy, creamy meringue dessert (amber, labdanum, sandalwood). As it progresses and the fruity tang fades, the woody facets of vetiver are played up. The sweetness is contrasted with a new dry accord of cocoa powder, dusty iris and guaiac wood. It’s only in this transition period that Vetiver Oriental resembles other Vetiver fragrances like Guerlains’. The rest is unique and a standout. Best of all, it performs like a classic EDP and a few sprays in the morning leave me smelling great all day.

This is a masterpiece guys. I have never heard of Serge Lutens as I am a young guy (age 20), I tried all of them and this one made a serious impression. My favourite vetiver smell, it is not a sharp sour vetiver kind of like with Guerlain Vetiver, this is mixed with sweet and smooth amber plus chocolate, making it syrupy and smoky whilst still being fresh, which makes it the best Serge Lutens for a young guy. I think this may be the most wearable and versatile out of the collection, it has a big oomph of power, along with elegance. You could wear this one in any situation except from in really hot weather and with very casual wear. I might sell a few bottles or trade some in my collection to obtain this, if anyone has this for sale or for trade in UK let me know

One of the most beautiful vetivers around. Reminds me of Zegna Haitian Vetiver for its brightness and quality, Elie Saab Vetiver n.6 for it's fizzy green opening and also a bit of Timbuktu for the subtle sweetness (but no incense at all here). because of its chocolate notes, it's one of the rare vetivers that could fit an evening wear, best for mildly warm nights (and mildly cold days). No worries, the chocolate here is not in-your-face, but subtly dosed to be present without cloying (unlike Guerlain L'Instant EDP, Dior Homme Intense or Bvlgari Blv Notte, where the cacao/chocolate is the main player, and somewhat overdosed imo - not a fan of cacao in fragrances to be honest). Serge hit again! In my top 3 vetiver frags. Simply a masterpiece.

Cold but sunny morning here, not usually the time of year I would wear this. Normally I use this autumn and spring. Yet, the cold weather brings out the best in VO. Maybe it's a winter fragrance as well. Of course perfume is a personal thing, that's the beauty of it. But, for me, this is not similar to any of the Dior Homme line. It is kinda superior to them, namely for the vision, the blending, and the overall balance. I also think that longevity is better than what most report (on me it's usually 8-9 hours). It just doesn't project that much. This is the landmark vetiver scent simply by showing that it's an elegant ingredient capable of being part of an elegant composition.

Love at first sniff and still one of my favorite scents ever. Woodsy, smoky, dry, rubbery, creamy, semisweet - dark and polished, yet warm and comfortable. The amber note feels especially well done, from someone who isn't usually a fan. Longevity/sillage is not amazing, but it sticks to the skin for a long time after it stops wafting in the air, with whiffs of guaiac and sandalwood lasting hours. edit: I got a decant from another source that smells much lighter and less rich, not sure if this is an aging issue or what, but I don't get the chocolate/creamy/guaiac notes at all, just vetiver and powder. I guess it's a sign I need to get my funds together and buy my own bottle.

I have already written a review based on a sample bought online and feel obliged to write another based on a decant taken from the new 100ml bottles. This is way better. It is perfectly balanced and has the power I was hoping for. Wonderful vetiver, chocolate and oakmoss. Perfectly unisex. I get some warmth from the amber and coolness from the iris. If there is oud then it is very low key. I find the oakmoss and iris become a little more prominent with time and has less warmth. This is one to wear on days when you just want to chill. Very unisex but possibly smell a tad masculine after an hour or so. Moderate sillage and longevity

Vetiver, from serge lutens point of view..it’s not a much complex creation..starts sharp and spicy (as usual like most lutens openings) vetiver is lush and for seconds it reminds me of mona di orio vetiver..but then it calms down and gradually becomes transparent and a sweet combo of amber and (cacao or chocolate) comes up..as if vetiver sits on chair and tells the sweet notes: sons i’m done i want you to have my back! :)) Any wayyyyy..it is indeed very classy.. good for autumn or winter. a nice versatile Typical lutens perfume..longevity and projection..the common average lutens. 7/10

Very sophisticated and gorgeous vetiver scent. There is a slight nuttiness or earthiness that softens the edges, so it's not too sharp. It isn't loud, but still makes its presence known. And the complexity of the scent makes it flexible for a fresh fragrance all year around. Immediately adding to the full bottle list for my partner, but also wearable for me. Update: I tested it again today on a very hot and humid day. The fragrance did not do well against the heavy air and I did not find it pleasant for the first time, so be sure to test it when there is a chill in the air.

Extremely versatile, classy, and just enjoyable in general. I usually dislike vetiver because it comes off as sharp and medicinal to my nose, but this one blends it so well with the sandalwood and chocolate that I have a hard time finding any faults with it. This fragrance instantly became one of my favorites, it really is that good. The chocolate here is a bit dry, which gives the overall fragrance a kind of herbal tea quality to it that I find very comforting. Performs pretty well on my skin with 8 hours of longevity and a really nice scent bubble/sillage overall.

I've just got it, smelt, ang fallen in love... In my opinion it's the best vetiver fragrance. On my skin it smells: -first like smokey vetiver with black tea, and Iris -than like a bit sweet vetiver with dark choclate -finally oriental vetiver with labdanum, amber, musk and some guaiac and sandalwood. It's very special and elegant fragrance, not for everyday. I think it's suitable for special occasions, I'll be wearing it with suits or dinner jacket. It's unique and gorgeus perfumes, one of my fovourite Serge Lutence's.

If you have not tried a vetiver fragrance before then you must try this lovely. Perfectly unisex. Vetiver is generally seen as a masculine note. It can be a tad harsh and must be handled carefully. My fella was surprised to learn this was unisex. He thought it was soft and feminine. VO is a delicious creamy vetiver with some chocolate, oak moss and iris. There is a little more vetiver, sandalwood and wood notes on the dry down but that's it. It doesn't have a big sillage but it lasts for many hours.

Love it. This is a very exotic and peregrine vetiver. VO departs from the vetiver and citrus combos you smell in most vetiver fragrances. The vetiver is present, but it is not loud. The background woody scents suplement this vetiver well. The chocolate gives it a tinge of bitter sweetness. I don't smell the floral notes. It may be that they are so well blended that they are not supposed to stand out, but refine the smell of vetiver to something less dryer and grassy. Very nice fragrance. 9/10

I recently bought this. It's such an interesting smell . Woody, earthy,mossy, green,a bit reisinious & cocoa powderish at the same time . It's my 1st vetiver scent . I'm loving it . It leans a bit masculine but i don't care. This is an exquisite frag for rainy season . Plus it projects like crazy on my skin , super long lasting. Quite unique though , definately needs an acquired taste to really appreciate this .

This, Tom Ford G-V and Guerlain V-Extreme... I have my bases covered! Tom Ford has the citrus on top. Guerlain has the earthy on top. This...I definitely smell the chocolate and serves as an in between for the other two mentioned. This is a beautiful scent. Wish this had a bit more longevity and silage like TF and Guerlain, but I'll just overspray a little. Highly recommend.

Smooth and comforting. Sweet without cloying, earthy but not dirty, and airy and powdery in a way that actually works for me (I often dislike powdery scents). I genuinely deeply adore it, plus it gets used frequently as a "dumb reach" because I think it's one of the safest from my collection to wear in all social circumstances. It's the only perfume I own a backup bottle of.

Wore this on a rainy day. So beautiful I didn't even want to take it off. Most of Serge Lutens creations aren't versatile, but when the time is right, you will feel like you're falling in love. Every time it hits. A chocolatey, warm and mildly sweet vetiver. The late drydown is kinda weird with a tangy, almost metallic after taste.

Super good fragrance but like 80% gentleman reserve privee.... I don’t understand why more people don’t see that connection.. my nose totally gets that... Givenchy had to of ripped off of this fragrance. It’s a tad redundant imo if you own both.. but the scent alone is a clear 9/10. Will update over many more wearings.

Currently my favorite by SL. I can smell a lot of the chocolate, but its only slightly sweet, like actual cocoa powder as opposed to a candy bar. The vetiver is a soft woody smell, its not too sharp like in some other vetiver fragrances. Reminds me of Jovoy Psychedelique but this is more green and woody and less sweet.

goes on a bit floral then the bitter vetiver with oakmoss that is dark, not fresh, mixed with sandalwood, musk and some guaiac; no chocolate to be found which intrigued me; I tried this first in spring and summer. Now, wearing it in winter, I get the spices in the drydown and a lovely labdanum in the base. Swoon.

I have a bell jar version that is now 15 years old. I love the Vetiver/dark chocolate mix with some creamy sandalwood to back it up. But it remains a green scent on me perhaps thanks to the oakmoss and iris. It smells nothing like any of the Dior Homme scents on me (thankfully). I wear it to bed.

This is probably my favorite scent of all time. It’s balanced beautifully, with the sweetness and warmth of the amber complementing the woody, bitter notes. I definitely agree that it’s more chocolate forward than vetiver, but that works well given the iris (which usually isn’t my preference)

I'm a huge fan of this scent. It was my "daily driver' for nearly a year and I never got tired of it. Lingers nicely on scarves and coats in winter. A crisp fresh alertness with a woody, toned-down quality that I really appreciate. Not too feminine, but very appealing!

I appreciate the lack of citrus in this fragrance which can make vetiver quite astringent. Instead there is iris and (bitter) chocolate which enhance it's woody characteristics. Vetiver Oriental is simultaneously smoky and cold. Almost a bit spooky.

Vetiver Oriental is a rich mossy green fragrance. Has just a hint of sweetness and I wouldn't mind if it was sweeter. I didn't really smell much of the sandalwood and musk. Overall, I really liked it.

Classy manly fragrancer. Openning is a well rounded vetiver on a bed of amber. Dry down is when the magic happens with the earthy smoky notes. one of the best interpretations of vetiver out there.

It is a unique take on vetiver. The chocolate here is more cacao-ish than being straight chocolate so it gives this depth to the fragrance with masculine background from the vetiver and oakmoss.

Beautiful chocolatey vetiver. In the same family as Jovoy Psychedelique (chocolately patchouli), but the chocolate here is more dried out and powdered by iris and lifted by musks.

This is a beautiful fragrance. This one of the goats. You might need to smell alota perfumes before you smell this to understand this.

One of the reviewers below wrote that this might be the best vetiver perfume, and I'm inclined to agree!

This is pure class. Smoky with a hint of chocolate it has a comforting feel that lasts.

I was under the impression that I don't like vetiver. Years ago I tried Tom Ford's vetiver...I think it was called Gray Vetiver (in the silver bottle) and hated it, thinking all vetiver-based frags would be dry and pungent. However, I heard such amazing praise of Vetiver Oriental that I decided to give it a try. Delightful. The opening isn't my prior experience at all. It is a slightly bitter, spiky green note, almost a bitter fir needles scent, but still well-behaved. Underneath and coming forward are the warm resins. Based on my experience last night (I wore it last night and then again today to test) the green note is going to come forward again soon, and then it will be more of a balsam fir smell, more earthy and not as bitter as the opening, with warm resin underneath through the rest of the wearing. The longevity of this is solid, I got 7 hours yesterday, having put it on after Santal Majuscule faded. This is an emphatic like, that may turn into a love when the chill of Fall officially hits Florida (DARK GODS I MISS SEASONS). In looking at the notes, I don't get chocolate at all; however, it could be the chocolate that is preventing the vetiver from going pungent...on my skin it must counterbalance the vetiver to make it more smooth. I'd love to smell chocolate though. The rest of the notes I didn't get either (at least not individually), but I'll update since I've heard SL frags can behave differently on different days. UPDATE: It has been a couple of hours, and today instead of warm resins underneath green in the dry-down, I am getting warm powder under green. If I had to guess I'd say the warmth is the chocolate note and the powder is the iris. I'm getting neither warm resin nor sandalwood today (unless the sandalwood is blending with the iris to create a warm powdery note...but it doesn't feel like sandalwood). SECOND UPDATE: After my shower this morning I spritzed VO again and... well this creature is quite the chimera. I had the same opening, but this time the dry-down is green, warm resin, and a touch of something spicy underneath. Are all SL frags this unpredictable? If so I'm really anxious to go back and see if LFdB and FdB behave differently on me on another go-round. LAST UPDATE: After hours on my skin (maybe 8-9) I sniffed my wrist and the chimera had come forward fully...depending on what part of my wrist I sniffed, the original spiky bitter green note was back, the warm resins were back, and the powder was back...it was like a tiny creature wandering over my wrist, flicking its tail, and appearing as three different creatures at the same time. Wonderful!

Upon first smell Vetiver Oriental smelled familiar. The treatment of vetiver which instead of drying it out and thinning it focuses on adding volume was something I had experienced before. In a way it is like taking a vetiver root and injecting it with balsamic elements that are coherent with vetiver’s nature allowing the perfume to smell as a splendid unnatural vetiver. A new, improved, rehabilitated, reassimilated and reinvigorated vetiver smell. These types of vetivers are opulent and wholesome compositions and most of them abide to abstract rules hence are easily propelled to high altitudes. When the decided concoction is inserted in the vetiver the result hangs upon the sustainability of the structure. The latter I presume relies on the nature and volume of the mix and its quality. Like an emulsion there is a point where either too much of a material or the wrong material may lead to a separation of the phases which in the case of a vetiver based fragrance may lead to a drydown that smells, in the good scenario, like the mix and the vetiver. Depending on volume, the mix or the vetiver note will prevail but in either case the smell of vetiver won’t be a new smell but rather the classic vetiver smell. Here Sheldrake uses an injection with sap, moss, amber, labdanum, gaiac, sandalwood, iris and cocoa to connect with two natural aspects of vetiver this of nutty licorice and that of smoky forest bark. As a result, VO smells fresh and crisp but also plush and dense. The quality of materials is great but the oriental structure collapses rather fast although ideal if it could hold. I don’t know who’s to blame here the nature of the mix or its volume but this is academic. The genius of Sheldrake perfected this idea some years later for Chanel with Sycomore. The two fragrances share in principle an identical treatment; balsams and smoke infusing a vetiver form. However, in Sycomore the redacted structure is held effectively and the composition remains always balanced in its abstraction, leading to a drydown of immense beauty. Vetiver Oriental comes close but falls short. An adventurous and rule-breaking scent nonetheless.

Here we go again with another comparative review between the Palais Version vs. the acutal bell jar. What has been changed in 24 years? I will describe what I get from the palais bottle and then pinpoint the differences with the actual version. In my opinion there are two approaches to vetiver in perfumery: those who tend to thinning it and those who add volumes to it. VO belongs to the latter. Two of the components of the olfactory profile of the vetiver are here amplified: the nutty-licorice and the smoky quality: in practise, balsams and smokes are injected in the vetiver oil. Then yoiu have the guaiac wood and a subtle chocolatr note. You accentuate the "forest effect" with a good dose of evernia prunastri - oakmoss - in the Palais version and you soften the concontion with the powderness of iris, you add acreamy sandalwood to give airness and fluffiness. In other words, you take the most "masculine" of the olfactory notes, you amped up its virility and then you try to emasculate it with some fluffy comfy sensation. The oriental part is due to the comforting labdanum accord in the base. This is a Sheldrakean vetiver; quite unique. Now, the current version improved in terms of performance (but we are not all obsessed with the princliple of performance) with a cost, a considerable cost. The synth-oakmoss cannot impart the natural mossiness of the older verision, while the forest effect is induced by a good dose of ISO-E. The cacao seems amplified to add that dustiness to supply what is missing from the lowering of the dosage of the iris: a pity because you loose that gentle component that what meant to be there to counterbalance the strenght of the vetiver. Follow me on IG @alexolympia6

Vetiver Oriental opens with a smooth yet dirty, swampy intensity of earthy vetiver. Beneath this lies a dry, cocoa powder character — more an abstract, dusty chocolate than any gourmand sweetness. Almost immediately, the vetiver gives way to a creamy, ambery and smoky labdanum base, punctuated by salty petrol accords. There's a distinctive, nose-piercing, crystalline, high-quality pine attribute here — something cheap fragrances simply don't have. Yet, for the price, this is the only truly unique benefit; I'd expect so much more at this level. In terms of performance, longevity is above average, but sillage remains weak — more of a skin hug. Reserve it for autumn and winter evenings. On the comparative side, Armaf Oud is nearly identical with its warmth. You could compensate by layering in additional pine and vetiver to recreate that gothic imagery. Interestingly, another Serge Lutens creation — Ambre Sultan — is a top comparison listed on Fragrantica for Armaf Oud. Overall, the composition is excellent: cold and austere in the top notes, super warm and resinous with churchlike incense and shadowy elegance in its base. Still, there's zero chance I'd spend this much when I could acquire literally 20 (or more) perfectly serviceable fragrances with all completely different compositions for the same cost. If you love bone-dry vetiver with an industrial edge — but hate sugary sweetness — this is for you. Skip it completely if you like friendly crowd-pleasers. Opening note: 8- Sillage/Projection: 6- Drydown: 9 Longevity: 7+ Blend/Composition: 9+ Versatility: 4- Uniqueness: 8+ Value for money: 1+ Bottle design/Aesthetics: 7+ Overall experience: 8- Blind-buy rating: 2+

Vetiver Oriental opens with smooth powder from the iris, dusty sweet cocoa with patchouli and sandalwood. I'm reminded of multiple fragrances due to similar notes, namely Dior Homme Intense and Borneo. However, its not as dark or sweet as DHI and lighter on the patchouli than the Borneo. VO plays around the edges of gourmand, but never veers straight into vanilla or chocolate. Iris evolves the scent, imparting an earthy sweet powder that compliments the cacao. The chocolate note softens, leaving a creamy accord. Contributing to soft texture is the musks, light woods like guaiac and sandalwood and amber. There it settles, creating a musky bubble of earthy iris and cocoa that lasts about 5-6 hours. Projection is intimate, but this fits the concept of VO exactly, being a pleasurable soft scent exclusive to the wearer. Both iris and vetiver present completely new facets in VO, appearing almost unrecognisable. Vetiver here is smooth and not bitter, worlds apart from that in masculine offerings like Terre d'Hermes. Vetiver Oriental really is such a unique composition, that I feel this review only skirts around its olfactory experience. I will say it's nice, a nice scent for a cosy day indoors. However, best in class would have to be Dior Homme Intense, which is much more wearable and alluring.

Vetiver Oriental EdP by Serge Lutens smells great. It is a warm powdery woody fragrance that is so comforting to wear/sniff on cold winter days. Moderate sillage and 6-7 hours longevity on my skin. I know Vetiver Oriental predates Elie Saab Essence No 6 Vetiver EdP, but to my nose they perform similar. Elie Saab Essence No 6 Vetiver smells like Vetiver Oriental with more cloves and less powder. I also had difficulty detecting the vetiver note in both fragrances. I waited from start to finish until Vetiver Oriental became skin scent and still couldn’t smell the vetiver. It seems Vetiver Oriental treats vetiver as a pedestrian, not a star. Although it smells great and I really like this fragrance in winter, it needs more vetiver juice to carry that “Vetiver Oriental“ name, in my opinion. [Update: Yesterday I sprayed it on my shirt, not my skin. I noticed that vetiver scent on my clothes at the end of the day. Finally, I get to smell the vetiver note in Vetiver Oriental!!!]

I agree with armchair sailor and perfumeaficionado. This IS worth trying for people who don't like vetiver too. Opposed to dozens of other perfumes who just bang you on the head with pure vetiver, here the vetiver is part of a whole which is fascinating. It sounds silly, but to appreciate VO, one needs to drop the idea of just "smelling well". This perfume is a masterpiece and its goals are way beyond this. It has a complex and somehow tortured composition. The vetiver is very smoky to start with. It allmost smells like ashes AND vetiver AND maybe some incense. The chocolate refuses to manifest itself on my skin, but others found it. The beginning has nothing sweet, it is tough, male, sure of itself, a bit unfriendly. But drydown is surprising: it is very mild, flowery, it made me think of lilac. So almost the opposite. Don't want to offend anybody, but any woman wearing this dark, looming perfume, with the exception of Angelica Houston or Angela Merkel, would puzzle me.

Nose Note #559 I see this as a masculine fragrance and don't think it would suit a woman. The "light version of Amouage Interlude" comment is not far from truth. It does feel mildly oriental. Vetiver here is balsamic, a little earthy, a little bitter, has no sweetness at all. This is a very "serious" scent. When you wear it you have to make the face of the Fragrantica "OK" emoji. It has an enigmatic allure, it's a little dark, but I don't sense any chocolate, the chocolate note is more like dark patchouli. I'd say the scent is not about vetiver, it's about everything that supports the vetiver note. Is it hugely oriental? No. Is it vetiver like "Encre Noire"? No. Is it niche? Yes. Will it appeal to unprepared people? I strongly doubt that. I think in the end Serge Lutens is a brand for very specific people, those who are versed in perfumery. It does remind me a lot of something, but I don't know what. 7.4/10, it's well crafted and all, but I wasn't hugely impressed

Vetiver Oriental is an alarmingly aptly-named fragrance. This begins with a big, harsh, pure vetiver opening that rapidly gives way to a boozy and resinous accord that's something like the basenotes of old formulations of Opium, but with a fresh astringent vetiver on top instead of Opium's famous accord of frankincense and kitchen spices. Although I wouldn't call it sweet, I notice an occasional gingerbread/baked goods sort of thing—not any particular baked good, but the abstract idea of something warm, toasted, and a bit rich. This part of the accord is balanced out by the smooth bitter greyness of iris/orris. It's great. I think this one will be discontinued soon, so grab it now if the notes sound good to you (it's on "last chance" sale over on Lutens' website).

In spite of its name, this is a very sophisticated Parisian style "Oriental" take on the vetiver note. The perfume sweetens the traditionally masculine considered vetiver note to the point that it becomes really feminine. To achieve this result, the perfume opens with the rooty vetiver with a lovely iris and guaiac wood transitioning to a heart that reveals more vetiver this time with notes of chocolate and finally drying down to powdery labdanum, amber, musk and sandalwood with the vetiver beautifully enveloping the background. Beautifully blended, unisex, with moderate to strong sillage and projection and good longevity. This is a textbook case for true perfume blending mastery. Enjoy!

Nice chocolatey vetiver opening, stays chocolatey but vetiver reverts to background right away. Left with slightly dusty/powdery, slightly creamy dark chocolate. I prefer this dark choc to the milky choc in most designer frags. Def a nice scent and easy to wear. It’s funny, my non- fraghead wife thinks it’s feminine, without knowing it was unisex, but she said she prefers alpha male type, but also likes hommage a l’homme on me...go figure. Great quality scent especially for the price if you like the waxy chocolate variety. I find it a better alternative to DHI, especially since it sells for cheaper.

This reminds me of a more unisex, maybe a tad masculine, version of Mugler's Muse. It's a lot smoother and refined, not as loud as Muse, but similar due to the chocolate and vetiver note. The chocolate is more of the dark type, not very sweet. The coolness of the iris balances out the warmth of the other ingredients, especially the amber. Would be nice to wear in the coming colder months while curled up with a book next to the fireplace. Slightly masculine, but would still be interesting on a woman. I like it but not enough to try to find a bottle and pay what I'm sure would be a high price.