Inoui

Inoui is one of the most poetic and contemplative fragrances I have experienced, not only from the 1970s, but frankly in general. While its rooted in trends of galbanum-green and woody floral chypres that were de rigueur at the time of its release, Shiseido lends a certain quiet (not to be read as "weak"), melancholy sensibility, while also having an arresting, pure gradation of its elements. Sour, bitter, sweet, cool and autumnal, it elicits emotions in me. I wear this as the buzz of life is persistent, unyielding, but Inoui represents my strong need to detach for a while, to explore the spaces in between the sentences and the phrases. The world nags and demands, and Inoui is the Bonshō bell: it all stops and I carefully examine. The most forward accords are that of pine and juniper, the masculine yang, at first seeming stoic, but when under their boughs, have warm, protective hearts, and a compassionate embrace. These are paired with the yin of freesia, nurturing and affectionate, airy and light, reminiscent of coriander and some facets even reminding me of burgundy wine. This has me thinking of the metaphor that perfume can provide: that it represents this beautiful duality in all human beings. We all have different fractions, but there's no denying that we hold both. The conifers and freesia are underlined by a peach and myrrh that resembles the confectionary and the digestif of the undergrowth. Over time, it feels like a gauzy veil, a mist through tall trees, the scent of damp cedar amongst ripe humus and the knell of organic impermanence. The myrrh lingers, an abiding warmth, an anchor to earth in the cool air. A trail, like Kōdō, a thin plume of smoke, softens and stirs, undulating in an otherwise still space. Grief and joy, pain and pleasure, one always needs to other, especially to give birth to inspiration. How remarkable that one fragrance can suggest so much for me. C'est inouï!

Does it warrant the exorbitant prices online? Maybe. Does it innovate the green genre? Maybe. But why does something inspire ‘maybe’ and yet be well-loved? I think it would be the memories and the quality of those which are imprinted with the perfume. Great perfumes bring you to places just like when perusing a splendid book. Of the kind grandiose, understated, refined and as for this one we can call oriental laced with intrigue. It’s as if how Mitsy inspired and reminded the early decades of the far east. The lemons perturb the composition, offering a sour quality until its last gasp whereas the coniferous parts set the ambience. One where you walk along the mountainous paths of Sapporo while being allowed a gaze to the towering pines hazed by fog atop. It’s truly mesmerizing as the far eastern kick sets it apart from the high browed greens and chypres of yore. Peach offers a fluffy bed which you can discern midlife whilst myrrh and civet give it a warmth. Like a swordsmith hammering malleables on a snow-covered hill. If any it reminds me of the quality Eau de Givenchy has: dry and liquory but with hints of freshly snapped twigs and non-ripe fruit. Also to some extent Metal by Rabanne. I might be biased because I liked Nightingale, Feminité du Bois and Mitsouko especially in extrait. Wishing there’d be more Nippon inspired western perfumes... This is a mischievous green oni bottled.

If there ever was a perfect fragrance for autumn, this would be the one. I believe it's the pine needles note is what I find most enthralling. It isn't a sweet little wide-eyed girl scent but that of an energetic Powerhouse Woman of the 80's who knew where she was going and would climb mountains without complaining to get there. She was a beauty who walked with the brisk gait of confidence and would go nose-to-nose with the good ol' boys in the Board room. What a classic this one was, and how devastating it was when they took it off the market. It's a chilly scent. There's nothing soft or warm about it except the memories it leaves behind. It's all business. EL's Aliage is similar to this one but simply doesn't carry off the "class" that Inoui exudes. I stocked up on this when I could and have become a hoarder. It was criminal to discontinue this classic of classics. Long live its memory.

A man sold the stock of his grandfather's long-closed perfume shop, and lo and behold, it was my lucky day: 60 ml of Inoui, the scent completely intact. Not the least bit stale, or sharp. So I got a whole bottle in my possession, unopened, the packaging still in the cellophane, and in the box the 'leaflet' that came with the perfume back then. It immediately took me back to my teenage years. I didn't even pay that much for it by today's standards: around 150 euros. Compared to the astronomical prices they still charge per milliliter here and there, a bargain. My share is mysterious oak moss and cedar. And pine softened by peach. And yes, also an ethically questionable ingredient: civet oil.

I feel very fortunate to have found a vintage mini of this glorious perfume. It opens very green and herbal, then develops into a deep, smokey pine. Many pine based perfumes can come off too sweet or too masculine. This is neither sweet nor masculine. It is total gender neutral but remains clean and fresh, yet earthy and woody at the same time. Just like a Japanese forest. It is truly the best pine I've ever encountered. If you ever come across a FB of this, grab it with both hands, then inhale slowly....