Soir de Lune

I have only just begun collecting perfumes, and so I have no pro descriptors - I just know what I like. Until recently, I only had OG Panthere, La Panthere, Ysatis and Magie Noire. And recent edition Poison, as well as modern version Obsession. I like my perfumes to have backbone and character, and make their presence known! I bought this because the algorithm here told me if I loved Cartier's OG Panthere, that I would enjoy this (it smells *nothing* like Panthere, though). and this was a blind buy. I have the 50 ML EDP. I really like this! It makes me think of incense, churches, and yet it makes me think of spring flowers, such as lily-of-the-valley. You could wear this in spring, in winter when you need a promise of spring to come, and because of the incense I perceive in it, I would also wear it in fall. I wasn't sure how I would feel about this, but I do like it very much, indeed! In fact, I was searching for something incense-y, and to my nose, this satisfies that desire. One thing I did find, perhaps because I am mature and my sense of smell has probably dulled over time, it took three quick sprays on each wrist, and on the throat, to get the bouquet to make itself felt properly. I have probably over-applied it. I didn't rate the sillage or longevity, as I am alone today, and I just now put it on, so I don't know yet. I find the EDP version to be - something a bit two-faced - it smells like melancholic, smoky, rainy fall walks, and yet it smells like spring flowers. I think this one is not for everyone, and there is nothing young, gourmand, nor sweet about it (which is why I like it so much!) but it would certainly work very well where it is appreciated. ETA as it dries down and opens on the skin, I do get the wild honey aspect of this. I also get the smell of - paper money, in a fine leather wallet? Old love letters on vellum? There is something about the chypre perfumes I have sampled so far that give me this impression. Old world, Belle Époque, elegant and wealthy. Darn, now I want to know what the OG perfume smells like, lol! Edited this for the following morning: It lasts on me, with a second and then slight third application yesterday. This morning, it sits beautifully close to the skin, but still occasionally releasing slight drifts of projection. Still smells like church incense to me. So: first hour is a big sharp blast of what some call "granny" flower perfume, a bit reekie in a 1950's way. Calms down into subtle and elegant old world, "old money" elegance. Curates overnight into pure church incense. Perfect fall fragrance, and I love it for melancholic days.

If Starry Night had a scent, it would be Soir De Lune. Sisley scents are always like something from another era to my nose and Soir De Lune is no exception to this, despite its 2006 release, this is by no means a fresh crowd pleaser nor is it a standard fruity floral. Soir De Lune is quite grown-up but its not cold and unapproachable, its warm, velvety and comforting, its also quite a power house and isn't for the faint of heart! The initial opening reminds me a lot of older Chypre scents such as Mitsouko and Estee Lauder Knowing, but when that intial, almost aldehyldic blast settles, a plush rose emerges which is both velvety and a bit waxy (like lipstick), the spices here work beautifully with the rose and add warmth and body whilst iris gives some soft powder, I can't detect many of the other notes in the composition aside from the rose, iris, nutmeg and pepper oil, Its so seamless and all the notes sing in harmony together which creates an air of elegance and Parisian chic; think a trench coat, a silk blouse and sunglasses walking along the Champs Elysees during a cool evening. I agree with the comparisons to Estee Lauder Knowing, I used to own a bottle of Knowing but rehomed it after I struggled to get it to work on my skin, but I wouldn't say that they smell identical, Soir De Lune is softer, more elegant and easier to wear than Knowing, it also blends better with my skin chemisty without smelling like talcum powder which is how Knowing would often end up smelling on me. The silage is amazing, two or three spritzes at the most produces an elegant trail whilst the longevity is super; 8+ hours and often it lasts through showering. Its for sure a fall/winter staple and while I would choose to wear it for big events and nights out, I actually also feel like its perfectly suited to being worn with jeans and a baggy jumper to a coffee shop, I find it very versatile despite its powerful nature, also, the bottle is a work of art too! Future repurchase for sure plus the matching body lotion I got with my bottle smells gorgeous too!

Sisley’s Soir De Lune is an underrated masterpiece by Dominique Roppion. She is serious, but sparkling. Delicate, and dense. Like the full moon on a jet black night, or like fragile details of anatomy carved into a marble statue. In fact, this brilliantly complex perfume may be my favorite Chypre in existence. Every featured note in this has a chance to shine, and the supporting characters add so many layers of beauty and intrigue while maintaining a sheerness that is absolutely addicting. This particular Chypre opens with a bubbly, fuzzy peach aura; and then like others have described Soir De Lune plunges you into the depths of Rose, Oakmoss, and Patchouli. While I may detect aldehydes alongside aromatics in the opening, I wouldn’t classify this as overtly aldehydic. Roppion carefully utilizes the classic ingredients of a chypre and creates something timeless, yet wearable for even the most discerning 21st century perfume lover. Sillage and longevity is exceptional as well. Every time I wear this, I pick up a new experience- Rose is always there but she dances with different partners every time. This is knockout French perfumery that enchants you like an entire orchestra playing in complete symphonic synchronization; opposed to other perfumes that tend to feature solo notes played above supporting roles. Everything has their moment at the same time in this- and the joy of the wearer is in tuning into different notes throughout the piece. Like Chopin, Sisley’s Soir De Lune is the union of harmony and melody. She IS the moon in the sky playing with the stars while humanity and the universe dances on.

This a wonderful little gem. Starts off as basically feminine leaning rose fragrance to my nose, albeit a very interesting, refined and high quality one. At this stage it makes me think of something a well-to-do older woman might wear... the kind you might see perusing around Saks on a weekday morning. Then it starts to get a little earthy, a little spicy, and really mossy, but still with that rose backbone, and it is a simply beautiful, unisex floral chypre during that stage. Then eventually, and this is where the magic really happens for me, in its third stage it starts to get deeper and heavier, more complex and challenging. To my nose it becomes rather resinous and the floral notes shift from rose to Tagetes. Oddly, in this stage it makes me think of a toned down, subtle version of Serin by January scent project (that one’s a thick, heavy tagete bomb, which I love but can be too much at times), even though they really don’t share any notes. I’m aware this is marketed towards women, but I am a 40 y/o male and feel totally confident wearing this. As an aside, I love the way Sisley handles oak moss as a fragrance material. It seems their fragrance collection is very cohesive, and several of them seem to be variations on a theme, and I think the common thread is the oak moss. This is quite different than Eau du Soir, which I also really enjoy, but the similarities they do share I think is because of the shared oak moss base.

Like Sisley's beautiful Eau de Soir that I reviewed recently, Soir de Lune is a top-notch floral chypre. It is sweeter and spicier than Eau de Soir, as well as warmer, darker and more opulent - the autumn/winter version of the airier EDS. Housed in a beautiful bottle of which I have a miniature, SDL is deeply enjoyable throughout. From its fruity opening to its dense floral heart, it is fairly classic in style, set apart by the inspired inclusion of honey in the base. SDL opens with juicy citrus notes, given some sweetness by a hint of peach. Soft spices emerge early on, adding warmth. Powdery florals follow, led by iris, but with clean jasmine and some rose evident. Sweet mimosa follows, and the effect is rich and dense. Honey keeps the florals richly sweet as the mossy chypre base emerges. The drydown is inky dark, led by vintage-style oakmoss. Soft woody notes round it out, and a sweet amber effect is given by the honey and musk. Patchouli enhances the chypre accord beautifully, remaining until final fade. Sillage is strong and longevity is long-lasting. Feminine-leaning and best worn in autumn/winter, it is opulent but wearable. A beautiful modern chypre made in the classic style, SDL has a few points of interest that set it apart - namely the use of honey. An underrated masterpiece from the exceptional Dominique Ropion. 4.5/5.