Helicriss

When I was about 10, my future sister-in-law from Japan stayed with our family and made us Japanese curry. It is not a fancy dish, the mix is only a few bucks, but the taste is aromatic, hearty, and delicious in a down-to-earth sort of way. A few years later I was pulling an overgrown White Licorice bush out of my mother’s garden. I was up to my elbows in the smell, I enjoyed it, but the memory of the smell kept knocking against me. Finally I exclaimed, “this smells like Japanese curry!” Indeed, White Licorice and the curry bush are related. So on first spray of Helicriss I get full-on Indian restaurant, curry buffet for lunch (I also lived in India, I am very familiar with curry). It’s spicy, it’s foody, it does have a hot cooking oil feel to it, and there is nothing perfumy about Helicriss. Why would I want to smell like hot, dirty, bustling India at lunch time? But then this perfume dies down to something lovely. Helicriss becomes the White Licorice bush I pulled out of my mother’s garden. It’s green, it’s pungent, there is a slight bite, but that bite is rounded by a musky/powdery edge. This is so unique and I’m in love. I read a few reviews wondering what the curry smell in this perfume is (as if a mixture of cardamom and turmeric combined will create this smell—no, this smell is not the combination of familiar spices). This smell is Helichrysum. They call Helichrysum “Imortelle” in the ingredients list. Go smell the real thing and you will understand this perfume.

After thoroughly testing the entire SD Musc collection and ordering some travel-size bottles first, just to be sure, I finally purchased a 100ml bottle of Helicriss. It took me some time to discover all facets of Helicriss, because it is so original, but now I can proudly declare that it is magnificent and works wonders on my skin. As my initial review below testifies, when I first started wearing it, the strongest notes were curry powder and musk. Now, in addition to those two, I can definitely identify different layers. The first one is fresh spicy and aromatic, with lemon, bergamot, rosemary, cumin and salt. After 20 minutes or so it begins to warm up with the arrival of warm-spicy, balsamic and herbal notes - namely immortelle, patchouli and benzoin; at the same time the musky cloud becomes more prominent, but never overbearing. Helicriss lasts at least six hours on my skin and projects magnificently for the first 3-4 hours. I’ve received tons of compliments since putting it in regular rotation. It’s everything that I look for in a fragrance: high-end yet reasonably priced, original, striking, uplifting, memorable, totally pleasant and wearable on any occasion. Kudos to Ms. Delacourt for proving that in 2017-18 one can still create original unisex scents, instead of following the same bland and boring trends. I’m now eager to test her vanilla collection.

This is one gorgeous scent. Bright lemon, grapefruit and bitter orange provide a tart, tangy liftoff, infused with a dry/nonsweet cinnamon bestowing a "dried herbal" quality; then down into that magnificent immortelle accord: slightly sweetish, though never "maple syrupy" (as it might appear in other scents). Infused with an aromatic/medicinal rosemary quality, the perfume smells nutty, cereal-like or grain-like, dry and agrestic, but always with the tart citrus modulating any sweetness. It's kitchen-y, but in the very best savory way. Perfectly unisex. Puts your head into the most beautiful, autumnal, almost melancholy sense of beauty. In far drydown you get the gentle skin-musk quality... This perfume feels like a good, honest friend. It smells eminently natural and wholesome throughout-- no trendy, bogus aromachemicals here. Very highly recommended. A reviewer below spots a kinship with the discontinued Guerlain CORIOLAN: Bingo.

I absolutely love this line, and really appreciate the generous and affordable sampling service of Mme. Delacourte. This is very much a "fresh from the herb garden" musk, with flavors of citrus and all natural woods wafting from a good friend's hug. This is a lot more aromatherapeutic than perfumey to me, but it's still polished and doesnt smell basic. I am still really unsure which of her creations I would buy, but every one is wearable. As this dries down, I distinguish a little too much patchouli for me, but it is cosy and smells like a great masculine scent as well. Update: several hours later I still detect the perfume on my skin, and it is a very delicate woody musk. The immortelle is detectable, and there is a slight sweetness. I don't smell patchouli anymore. Lovely!

Mmmmmm, yummy! Helicriss is almost edible, at least for lovers of spicy South Asian cuisine! It smells like curry powder, mixed with fresh herbs, lemon and tea leaves. I lived in Manchester for several years, and this fragrance immediately reminded me of all those Asian restaurants in Rusholme... Suddenly it's like I'm walking down Oxford Road, crossing Moss Lane East, and voila - I'm in Rusholme, ready for another curry overdose! Unlike Dovana, Helicriss is really unisex, perhaps a tad more masculine, although all ladies who enjoy aromatic-spicy fragrances will appreciate this. Do not worry that you'll smell like you cooked curry for 12 guests and forgot to wash your hair, because its silage is soft and the overall vibe very pleasant and uncomplicated.

This, to me, is by far the most interesting of the La Collection Muscs and the one that works the best with my skin. It's a salty curry scent with a strong citrus presence and, obviously, that 'ball of musk' that Sylvaine has quipped on multiple occasions. It's never overbearing and always classy. She's mentioned that she needed to give musk a sense of character and make it project - the thyme salt and soft spices here give the musk the ability to transform on the skin. It surrounds you and softly envelopes you. Just beautiful.

This was really fun to wear - I don't know why, but I really love food smells in my scents and the further they deviate from standard gourmands, the better. This is definitely curry mixed with musk and light citruses. As mentioned below, it is a 'ball of musk'. As also mentioned below, it may lean a bit masculine but it is definitely unisex. I wore it this morning and got a compliment from a stranger which has never happened before. Not that it matters. I really enjoy it, too, but it's nice to know someone else did too.

Not really getting peeps comparing this to an Indian restaurant? Have been to one on a couple occasions but don’t relate. To me it smells more herbal than spicy, very natural, with an immortelle overdose. Perfect for a man, and a very versatile daily scent I really enjoy wearing for a week now. Wouldn’t wear in European winter. I definitely smell some relation with Coriolan In it’s structure I guess, and since that is no longer available- thank you Sylvaine, what a magnificent scent this is, love it for sure!

Of the five of the musk collection, this is the most "wintery" of them all and by far the darkest. It opens very spicy and resinous. The incense-vibe is there as well as a punch of patchouli. It dries down to a mix of citrus and patchouli. By far, this is the most truly unisex of all the offerings. The longevity is great on this one, 7-8 hours with the first few hours being a mild projection and the last few being a skinscent. I love this one.

I bought the sample set from this house and took tried a different one every day. This perfume was hands down the best of the bunch for me. I have lots of perfume, but only like a limited amount, in 2016 I only bought 1 perfume, this year it will be Helicriss. I can't describe the notes I smell, but I do know that this was a true love for me. As I grow older I find that my purchases are extremely selective and special, this perfume is both.

Wow I love this. It's spicy yes but it really doesn't smell like curry to me at all. I get a big bergamot hit at the start and I can still smell citrus freshness and the heady immortele for hours after. Longevity well over twelve hours A frag like this is what I have been looking for, straight on the FBW

Interestingly almost everyone who has written a review below gives this a thumbs up, yet it has a 3.6 rating. I can understand why someone would not care for this scent, it’s an acquired taste. Most modern perfumers would add vanilla to make this a little less challenging, but here it’s been omitted for the better. Helicriss features immortelle and patchouli, then I pick up citrus and a vert strong curry note comes on immediately. With the addition of rosemary, cinnamon and frankinincense, this also has an herbal element underlying the scent. Very little projection means this stays close. I respect this composition, like it but it’s not wearable for me. I’m not sure when I would want to smell like an Asian meal, so ultimately a pass even though I’m extremely intrigued.

Helicriss is pretty "WOW, gorgeous!" in the opening! I love what must be the helichrysum (Thank you, SapphireQueen, for identifying that and also for your great review!), plus maybe some cinnamon. It reminds me of the smell of a shop in Chinatown, though at least one other reviewer said they thought it was like Indian curry -- food-like. In any case, I find that smell to be pretty amazing and beautiful. Unfortunately, the drydown does not quite live up to the interesting, "wowza" opening. While it dries down pleasantly, to be sure, it just becomes a much less interesting, musky scent. The longevity is not great on this one, either; it lasts maybe 2 or so hours. A bit of a disappointment.

This is soooo masculine to me. I feel like I am wearing a men's cologne. I'm getting pine trees and other aromatic notes. Not really any sweetness to off-set that feeling, and florals aren't listed either, which might have helped make it truly unisex. It is very well composed for what it is, and has a very full-bodied texture that has a calm, relaxed vibe, but it is not feminine at all. I do like it, just not for me. I'll put this on the To Purchase gift list to consider in the future for one of the guys in my family. I think some of them might really like this.

A definite citrus opening then its spicey and aromatic. The citrus definitely dominates but it is closely followed by the spices then the aromatic notes. I like how the immortelle provides some of its sunny honeyed sweetness to the whole. Its not overly sweet though but you need something to balance out all the citrus and aromatic notes. Its definitely unisex. I could imagine wearing this on a warm night at a bbq or party outside. It has this laid back and playful feeling to it. Its such a shame it is so weak and doesnt even last an hour on me.

"Warm breez from Sud" says S.D.'s site. The name comes from Helichrysum, better known as immortelle and it's among the three main notes of Helicriss. The other 2 should be patchouli and incense, but honestly I don't detect them a lot. My nose picks up some other notes instead, also listed by the site -rosmarine, citrusses, tonka bean and a hint of cinnamon It's a very pleasant, masterly blended fresh aromatic composition! If it reminds me something??? Yes, I would mention Annick Goutal's Nuit Etoilee and Sables ;-)

Like many other reviewers here, the note I pick up on most strongly is curry powder, with some added sweet-ish florals and clean musk. This is a very warm, comforting perfume - an artist's rendering of the living-room of a cosy home, at this special moment where the smell of the evening meal starts slowly wafting out of the kitchen. It's not quite for me as for some reason it gives me headaches (hence the short review) but it's so unique that I really regret being unable to wear it.

Helicriss opens herbal, a bit dry like thyme or something? Then it settles to a very synthetic, woody musk, more masculine if you like, with hints of citrus accenting ISO E SUPER and soft curried spices, coriander seed, cumin that sort of thing. These instantly bond to my skin sitting nicely over uber modern, clean musks giving a more lived in feel. I really like this and it's quite familiar from escentric molecules, Ormonde Jayne, a few others. I liked it.

This one is very unique in the line. It starts medicinal, bitter and herby. The musk is almost indiscernable in the top notes. Unlike other SD perfumes, this is a sharp, love-it-or-hate-it one. I'm still waiting for the middle and base notes to come up but I actually think it's quite fun. Not a bad one definitely. I am personally OK with medicinal frags. I'll append to the review later when I have gone through the life cycle of the scent.

Very nice straightforward chic sunny - herbal scent. Immortelle and grapefruit are a great pair here. I could see my son wear this, it feels young, uncomplicated and elegant. Wouldn't be out of place in a (men's) Penhaligon's line-up. And I would def. steal a spray or two every now and again!