Black Lacquer

When I first encountered Tom Ford's Black Lacquer, I wasn’t sure if it would be my style. The name alone conjured an image of something bold, edgy, and possibly overwhelming—qualities I sometimes find difficult to pull off. Yet, the moment I sprayed it, my reservations melted away. This fragrance is nothing short of mesmerizing. Black Lacquer unfolds with a dark, resinous opening that feels almost like stepping into a luxurious, dimly lit room filled with polished wood and glossy leather. There’s an immediate richness, almost syrupy but not sweet, balanced by smoky and slightly spicy undertones that pull you in like a whispered secret. As it develops, the scent transitions beautifully, revealing a softer, more velvety heart that feels warm and enveloping. It’s here where the unexpected happened for me: the interplay between a soft floral aspect and the deeper, more mysterious base notes became addictive. I found myself drawn to my wrist repeatedly, each sniff offering a new nuance that felt both grounding and provocative. The longevity of Black Lacquer is nothing short of legendary. I sprayed it on a favorite blouse, and weeks later, the scent still clung to the fabric as though it had become a part of its very weave. Even more impressive, it’s been months since I last wore my leather jacket, yet a faint but unmistakable trace of Black Lacquer still lingers in the lining. It’s as if the fragrance has imprinted itself onto my life, leaving behind an olfactory ghost that whispers elegance and intrigue every time I catch a hint of it. In terms of projection, this isn’t a scent that shouts—it murmurs seductively. It’s confident without being abrasive, making it perfect for intimate evenings or moments when you want to leave a lasting impression without overwhelming the room. Tom Ford’s Black Lacquer surprised me, not only because I didn’t expect to like it but because it stayed with me in such a literal and emotional sense. It’s a fragrance that feels like a signature, powerful yet understated, and capable of telling its own story long after you’ve moved on to other things. This is a scent I’ll revisit time and time, not just for its beauty but for its undeniable staying power.

Being disappointed in most of the most recent Tom Ford releases, I had my doubts about Black Lacquer. I am happy to report, this is a very good, somewhat original fragrance that puts the Tom Ford brand back to where it belongs. To be fair, a smokey wood has been done by most major houses, Kilian particularly has a few nice offerings. Black Lacquer is a smokey wood, but benefits from a surprising inky/vinyl note that upon first spray does conjure up something black, smooth and shiny. I do like a fragrance with an ink note, as I wear M/MINK by Byredo. Not that BL smells anything like M/MINK but that initial blast does give BL very unique, modern and polished opening. At it’s core BL is a smoky wood and the opening note, as striking at it is, does fade off pretty quickly. Once it’s on skin, BL mellows out into a rich incense heavy, deep wood. This reminds me a lot of Ferragamo Incense Suede in that each has a Nag Champa, incense feel. I detect very little apricot and peony, but they are probably what gives BL a vague sweetness, but I find the smell of Nag Champa slightly sweet as well. The sweetness here is minimal, which serves this well. If this were any sweeter it would not work. I’d say this is more on the sweet side vs smoky or spicy but that should not deter anyone from trying this. The olibanum note is the focus here and it is complex and almost oriental in nature. This definitely has an exotic feel, like you are in an opium den or visiting a dark luxurious bar somewhere in the middle east. Overall, this is a deep, dark smooth experience and one of the best to come from this house in years. I am definitely getting a bottle.

Compared to other recent releases, this is the most Tom Ford smelling scent I’ve smelled in a while, and it’s gorgeous. In the same world as Ebene Fume and Myrrh Mystere and the more elegant amber centered releases, Black Lacquer has a solid seat at the table imo. The fantasy notes in the opening add to the overall experience but don’t define the fragrance as the name suggests that it would. I was pleasantly surprised when smooth booze, deep woods, warm spice and sensual and elevated amber collided beautifully in this modern take on a classic private collection profile. I’ll come back with updates after a full wear, but I feel firmly this may be one of the best releases since the acquisition. Update: I remain firm... best TF release since the acquisition. The longevity is so good on this, the sprays on my HANDS are going strong after 6 hours and handwashing. A little goes a long way for me. But even with that, this doesn’t become cloying or overwhelming... it is SO WELL DONE. This one is definitely worth the cost to me. On skin I get a beautiful incense. The type you would use as bakhoor to scent your surroundings and yourself... as a westerner, do you know how good a scent must be for us to want to use it that way? Usually we separate home scents from personal scents and make clear distinctions. But, Black Lacquer is a vibe. Stunning start to end with the florals making the briefest welcome appearance in the mid and the finish being a sueded frankincense. A must have for me.

I’m from Taiwan, and I tested this fragrance at the boutique three separate times before finally purchasing it. The first time, I only used a blotter. The next two visits, I sprayed it directly on my skin. What really amazed me was that the blotter from my very first visit still had a noticeable scent even two months later. That lingering trail stayed in my mind, especially the peony in the dry down, which I found truly unforgettable. I should mention that I usually dislike floral fragrances, but the peony here is surprisingly harmonious and refined. It doesn’t feel loud or overly feminine—instead, it blends beautifully and completely won me over. As for the opening and mid notes, to my nose they strongly resemble the smell of incense burning in Taiwanese temples. If you’ve ever visited a temple in Taiwan, you’ll probably know exactly what I mean. That said, it doesn’t feel heavy, religious, or oppressive at all. Rather, the overall composition is smooth, comforting, and very unique. Performance is excellent. As I mentioned earlier, even on paper it lasted for months, which says a lot about its longevity. Scent-wise, it feels very distinctive and doesn’t remind me of any other perfume I’ve tried.

Ébène Fumé perfected? This is intoxicatingly good. Where Ébène Fumé opens with an extremely smokey and church-like incense and woods, Black Lacquer masterfully blends fruitiness, the same incensey woods, albeit much more toned down with the smoke, and a slight rounding booziness that makes this a scent I can't get enough of. While they are overall very distinct scents, Ébène Fumé and Black Lacquer are, in my opinion, almost like sister fragrances. Much like the former, Black Lacquer also becomes fruitier and sweeter as it dries down, and the dry down here is also spectacular. Performance is where this might be a bit lacking. Projection seemed moderate at best, with a moderate to light sillage. Longevity seems fine, it managed to reach 6 hours but it's already a bit faint on skin. To be fair, I applied it off a sample vial on the side of my wrist instead of my forearm like usual, which means less fragrance than regular ended up on my skin. I'll have to give this another wear to see if performance might be slightly better. As it stands, I'm in love with this scent and I'll absolutely look into purchasing a full size bottle.