Italian Cypress

Woody and aromatic. The epitome of Italian class. The overlooked prodigy in the Private Blends line by Tom Ford, this chypre is a living relic of what the seventies was (from what I’ve been told). Italian Cypress has a soft yet powerful aura to it that makes it instantaneously appropriate for formal occasions. It’s also very retro, as Italian Cypress is very different to many other fragrances I own and on the market today; I dare say it is green, but that evokes a sort of ‘clean’ freshness that isn’t really what I’m looking for. It wraps itself in robust citruses, herbs and spices and eventually reveals the heart of Italian wood. It’s somewhat a ‘slow-burn’ or a gradual release fragrance that changes – but changes very little and very slowly. I think the ingredients in this blend is elaborate but homogenise together nicely to present fewer things than what you’d expect. Italian cypress delivers an air of Italian coolness; and in contrast to say, a French cool or mild quasi-pompousness, we have the deadly, but very minimal gentlemanly Italian style. A man who is rooted in tradition; with a barbershop haircut slicked with brylcreem. The silent, but present type with a demeanour so assertive no words are needed, but perhaps just a deadly glare from across the room (sipping negronis of course). The heart of the fragrance, cypress and woods; sways away from the coniferous archetype. It isn’t dry, piney or bitter in the long run, but very smooth indeed, as the dark woods create a hearty and mellow edge in contrast to the tantalising top notes. Italian Cypress opens with the coniferous archetype however and this only lasts for a moment or so. It’s a blast of everything to come that is invariably discordant and a little contentious, with a bit of savoury basil at the top, spicy clove in the mix, woods asserting themselves and happy-go-lucky spearmint sending a shock-bang reawakening to the senses. The robust Italian bergamot works beautifully with the lively pepperiness of fresh green basil with its mildly anise-esque scent profile, of course this is propped up even more with refreshing and exotic spearmint. The most impressive part of the opening is the herbaceous note of basil that (whilst it is a little discorded) shifts from the soapy scent of an Italian barbershop, tickled with the dry arrangement coniferous woods. Very green; in an Italian way. The clove then asserts its presence but never discriminates. It’s incredibly warming and shifts away from the Italian side of things. The clove gives the fragrance a gourmand light cinnamon vibe, with the natural intoxicating sweetness of clove aromatically shining. It wraps itself in the heart of woods and resins around a beautiful cypress body. Just on that note, this fragrance also has a cinnamon doughnut vibe (don’t laugh) – warm, fresh, sweet (not sickly!) and flavoured with piquant spice. Concurrently, the barbershop sense I receive, in which I envisage hot towel shaves with straight razors and ‘ol fashioned scented pomade reminds me of Old Spice Cologne. Nutmeg, cinnamon and clove, or collectively warm spice notes. Old school never smelt so good. If you don’t like to be the centre of attention, but of course want to smell undeniably good, groomed, clean...etc Italian Cypress is the way to go. Graceful and humble. This certainly isn’t lax either, don’t look like a slob wearing this. A welcome retro coolness; people always say it was better back then, if 1970’s Italy smelt like this I’ll be aghast that I missed my chance to experience this. Nasally pleasing (basil is contender for my favourite note, lavender being my favourite); I am very impressed with this one. Totally underrated. Classssssssssy. 5/5

I feel like this was Tom Ford's homage to the classic, vintage masterpiece Halston Z-14. Knowing his love for that time period, and all things classic...I feel this was his way of bringing back the masterpiece lost through the sands of time and reformulation. And he did a beautiful job. I love this scent. Classy, masculine, powerful, and sexy. It has been discontinued. So expect the prices to continue to skyrocket. With that being said...the most recent iteration of Halston Z-14 is a pale shadow of its original 1970's glory. But it's a crude approximation, and still smells good. It gives a glimpse of what the forgotten gem once was. If you never smelled the original, most likely with nothing to compare it to but TF IC, you'll immediately catch the similarities. IC is just more natural and blended in a far superior way, but at a very heavy price tag. IC is a near perfect re-creation of the original Z-14. The new reformulation of Z-14 while staggering under the weight of reformulation and budget level ingredients still does a nice job of capturing the essence of TF IC/original. Think of the new Halston Z-14 as a "LOW RES PROXY" version of this fragrance. The "image resolution" breaks down, and is crude side by side. But if you can't get TF IC, the latest Halston Z-14 will give you a proxy level (yet still incredibly enjoyable and pleasant) fragrance experience at literally 1/20th or 1/30th the price tag. Don't believe all the hate, now that this classic is discontinued, and of course the original formulation of Z-14 no longer exists except with collectors, get a new bottle of Halston Z-14 and you have the closest thing still on the market to this gem...at a steal of a price. Sidenote: I found with the reformulation of Z-14, skin chemistry is key. It smells amazing on me in the fall/winter and I get loads of compliments...But I have smelled it on others...and it didn't work for them. Again the quality of ingredients makes the new version fickle to skin types. But if your one of the fortunate few that it works for, consider yourself blessed. As for Tom Ford Italian Cypress: 10/10 The original Halston Z-14: 10/10 (which this fragrance is a re-creation of to my nose) The latest Halston Z-14: 8/10 this is factoring in the price which is dirt cheap, and uniqueness which no other scent in the current market even remotely resembles.

Update: I just ordered a bottle at a good price before the prices begin to skyrocket upward. I think this is truly niche of the private blends, and why it's not so popular and discontinued. Few, as myself, Colin Mailard, may say this is the best of the Private Blend line, it's not as "parfumy", and luxurious, worldly as the others perhaps. But we few who love it, for it's beutifull, natural cypress scent. I look for great woodies, and cypress is perhaps my favorite, nothing comes close to Italian Cypress. Creed Boise Portugal is the best sandalwood, IC is the best cypress, natural and realistic. This is one of the most complex fragrances of the private blends. It really does evolve. As I'm sitting here this evening in amazement of the most breathtaking aromatic scents are just unfolding one after another. In the opening you have the Cypress dominating, but it's the best and most natural Cypress note I have ever experienced, miles ahead of "Wonderwood", Rush" or "Encre Noir". It really transports you to a Cypress forest. OK, what next ? The Cypress settles and what unfolds are some of the most beutifull, natural woody notes and accords. The Cypress seemlessly blending with the citruses giving a beutifull aromatic freshness. I get the best cedar note along with a bright crisp, chilly birch, all as fresh as can be, as if the trees where freshly cut and you sqeezed the moist pulp in your hand. OK, now I will go off the deep end and talk about notes not listed. They are indistinct nuances, slight tobaco note, a smokiness, carnation, and a hint of moss. And some beutifull fruity tone of maybe one of the woods or hidden spices. I allmost thought I could pick out gardinija, as it was in vintage Z-14, making a subtle accord with the woods. It's interesting how they made such a rich complex woody fragrance without much balsams at all... It is the most manly of the Private Blends, but in the drydown, some of the beutifull nuances you get, almost floral, have a beutifull delicacy a woman could love. My other two Private Blends I have, Oud Wood and Amber Absolute are allso wonderfull, Oud Wood being more luxurious and unisex, but more linier than Italian Cypress, Amber Absolute is fairly simple, but a beutifull dark rich smoky Amber that can stand alone as a solo - Amber presentation. Rating: 9.5/10

I bought this fragrance to be my primary work scent. Be advised that it does smell very “similar” to Polo Green in that it is a woodsy scent but it is light years ahead of it in complexity. It is does not have an artificial smell and the Cypress is true to reality. I don’t get the pine-sol smell other people mentioned but this is a very “woody” (green like in a forest green) fragrance. It is a truly masculine scent (Outdoors guy think Elk Hunter) in my opinion and is worth every penny. That being said I just bought two 250 ML decanters last week one from Neiman Marcus and one from Nordstrom. Both sales associates said it was going to be discontinued which is what spurred the purchase. I called TOM FORD in Vegas and they stated that indeed there were plans to discontinue it but at the last minute those plans were scrapped. My suspicion is that it was due to the Oak moss limitations in the EU but in either case it will be in full production for some time to come. As of today there are 10 250 ml Decanters available through TOM FORD directly and several 50ml bottles as well. 11/25/15 1/4/16 Update I just received a phone call from Neiman Marcus and they are saying that it is on the chopping block. If you like it I would stock up something strange is going on with this one! 2/2/16 Update#2, I found and purchased a vintage Cosmair bottle of Polo green to compare. Other than them both being green scents that's the only comparison. IC is light years better and doesn't have that disgusting medicinal smell to it. Polo green is so strong it's nauseating and gave me a serious headache. IC no problems at all and no headaches from the scent. I will keep the polo green for nostalgic purposes but was extremely disappointed and will most likely never open it again.

Made back in the day with an inneundo-free name! (Maybe that's why they discontinued it? Many's the time Tom laid awake at night, cursing himself for not naming it 'Needle Prick' or 'Big Green Erection'.) Anyway, it's a dark green woody scent to be sure, but it's so natural-smelling it's almost life-afirming - you could actually be in a forest! It's structure is a modified fougère (containing everything except lavender) and it's a near photorealistic portrait of a tree instead of the traditional fern. As such it's much more autumnal. Calm and collected, rugged, even cosy - possibly romantic. And like many fougères it could go business or casual. Cypress is the main event (unsurprisingly?) and the other notes just serve to highlight its different facets. (It's not a fragrance of contrasting notes but so what?) The opening lemon highlights the freshly-cut cypress needles and sap, making it more of a bright green, slightly sweet fougère (actually in the vein of Houbigant's legendary Fougère Royale). Then the mint and basil highlight the darker, more leafy and herbaceous aspects. The patchouli brings out the earthy forest floor, whilst the incense the burnt wood. This all makes it significantly more autumnal than the spring-like Fougère Royale. Eventually it dries down into a comforting, pale grey-green soapy fougère which is still lovely. There's even a little sweetness throughout from something, which I'm guessing might be coumarin given the fougère smell. Gorgeous. Ridiculous why they discontinued it.