Bruma

Bruma by Maison Trudon (100 ml., USD 90, ) Refresh note 2 (Nov 12, 2024) I split Burma today again. This is Leathery-Woody Green Orris/Vetiver scent. assist with soft make up undertone. Yeah, still a modern woody chypre. Soft labdanum undertone. Kind of Orris root situation. But also, sweet and buttery. I think Antonie Lie try replica ambient of sweet green rooty iris here with twist of make up. The outcome is good It is nice fragrance but.. might be.. Too tame(?). I feel like this wise scent but Library wise. All muted cream, brown or white. It is not world-wise(?) but still calm. Kind of everyday, everywhere scent. Like really calm but shy of the world. ... The scent is now dried down and I found this is end with vetiver and labdanum. Old-money powdery clean scent. It seems borrow some core idea with Vol de Nuit by Guerlain by its earthy rooty green orris. I don’t think this is can so-called true iris scent but it is Iris green(?). Like, when you sniff orris centric scent like Irisss or L’iris or 28 La Pausa there is pretty much “greeness” that close to natural idea of iris. Bruma amp up the green but its Galbanum green so it has agrestic undertone. I like it nonetheless, peaceful even slight too reserved. Well Trudon is Candle company anyway. I compare with all my powdery scent (comete, touche finale, Violet Blonde, Putan des Pres, orris noir) while Bruma have unique property on it own (being Vetiver) I am not so sure will I actually keep wearing This.. It is not femme as the rest, yet it is not spicy enough to be good spicy-chypre, this is medicore fragrance. Like the one when you kind of not so sure what would you like to wear, a hybrid makeup powdery / woody labdanum scent. While it twisting genre. I don’t know that you really need one. When you wanna feel natural go with more vetiver centric parfum while I wear powdery, go full route on cute one. I think I really have no room left for Burma. Drop from sssetment. ===== Refreshing Note (Jun 4, 2024) I just own a bottle of Feminin Pluriel. I think I kinda understand now. That Bruma, is actually Floral-Chypre. And yes it is vintage (even actually, it is quite modern). The structure is similar. If 31 Rue Cambon can by modern chypre then Bruma is also Chypre. ===== First Impression, I love Bruma by Maison Trudon as this is introduce to me by my respectfully friend in the community. This can describe as perfect unisex scent, for those who love sophisticate scent. This scent remotely Reminds me of Iris Malikhân by Maison Crivelli but it is not as sweet and not leathery. Not as Rooty but the rendition is similar, sort of in the same vein. The scent blast you with white peppery kind of spicy for a minute before it is transform in to Galbanum realm. It thought it was gonna be sort of vintage rendition of a minute before the scent turn another way. Iris and Violet, introduced. In this Iris are more in powdery side but still somewhat Rooty. But the violet is beautiful here, this is violet in Leather aspect, work sort of secret sophisticate jacket. It is not so much fume like (La Violette), or candy like (Misia), it is show up very minimally. The mid also backed up by Floral scent a bit. The base is deepening the fragrance significantly, dry-vetiver and little sweetness by Tonka. With drop of smoky Labdanum. it is the scent that nothing really crazy. But it is beautifully rendition for Green Iris / Violet lover. Sure, it is slightly expensive for what the scent is offer. But at the price I get, I can't complain. it is beautiful. Score 8/10 as first impression. Longevity : TBA Projection : Intimate Classification : Unisex (somewhat Femme leaning) Short description : Green Iris with Violet in Leather aspect, sort of vintage but contemporary.

I recently came upon Cire Trudon perfumes and decided to try a few. I faithfully follow The Perfume Guy on YouTube and he raved about several of the newest fragrances. I respect Jonathan's opinion, so I was excited to try Bruma. After purchasing a few generous samples of different Trudon perfumes, here's my review of Bruma. Bruma is a truly beautiful perfume that opens with a distinct spicy peppery blast. Within a few minutes, gorgeous faint floral notes of iris, violet, lavender and peony emerge in an ethereal powdery cloud. Within 15 minutes lovely, warm tonka blends with the steady but faint floral notes, Not as animalic or smoky as I hoped, the entire fragrance opens and blends in a seamless and overall pleasant manner. Undoubtedly, the ingredients and notes are super-high quality. Nothing approaches artificial, cloying or synthetic in any way. This perfume is a lovely, mature and quality wear. And FWIW, Bruma is an extremely feminine potion. My problem with the perfume is entirely the silage and longevity. I sprayed a rather generous sample on my skin several days in a row. Each day, I had an impossible time smelling, or noticing the fragrance. On me, Bruma wore so light, I could hardly tell I had freshly applied the perfume. And overall, I found longevity low, lasting perhaps 3 hours on my skin. Bruma is a lovely, beautiful fragrance. Bruma is ethereal, feminine and light. Yet with all its positives, I don't think I could justify buying Bruma at its current price point. For me, Bruma lacks a real "presence" because from start-to-finish, I could barely detect I was wearing any fragrance...and neither could the few people around me. I'll give Bruma a few more tries. I guess I prefer my fragrances to be a bit bolder and present...not LOUD but definitely in the room and worthy of the asking price. And given the hefty tag on so many of these recent "niche" perfumes, including the Cire Trudon perfumes, I'm not sure Bruma is full bottle worthy.

Pretty iris/violet with other supporting florals, sweetened by tonka and labdanum. A bit cosmetic-y smelling. It's low projection and pretty soft. Like a much softer, sheerer version of Byredo 1996, or maybe it reminds me of Misia? Haven't smelled Misia in a while. I guess the point is it smells familiar. Pretty but not a wow. UPDATE: After testing it again with a good dousing on skin, I’ve changed my mind about Bruma. It’s more complex than I initially thought, though still understated and polished. Initially, there is a rooty, almost vegetal iris, with a green peppery aspect that makes it a bit piquant. Still retains a bit of that waxy lipstick thing but the earthier notes keep it pulled more towards a unisex composition, though it’s probably the most traditionally feminine smelling of the collection. I really like it. The longevity for me is about 4-5 hours after which it’s very faint.

Bruma means "fog" in Portuguese, and is the perfect name for this dry, gray, soft iris suede. The shape shifting that happens here is in moving from conventionally masculine to softer and more conventionally feminine, but overall quite unisex. It wears very close to the skin, with minimal sillage. This is perfect for those quiet, contemplative moments indoors with a book and a fire, or for environments when something any louder would be inappropriate, such as the office, or a professional setting. It's actually one of the nicest iris EDPs I've encountered, but not a statement frag. The tonka in the drydown is soft and lovely.

After a short & dry opening a la Hiris (Hermes), this buttery but still powdery iris-violette evolves into a very elegant suede iris somewhat in between Hermes Cuir d'Ange and Boucheron's Iris de Syracuse, with a very present Peony and a slight oriental twist due to Labdanum, exotic facet enforced by a transient but quite nice Galbanum evocative of Vol de Nuit. Not much to add to StellaDyverFlynn's excellent review here ... a real pleasure to wear for Iris lovers, more original than the reviews here seem to say.

Instant love. Starts out smelling somewhere between Hiris and Iris Silver Mist but sweet and less rooty, with the peony giving it a rosy peachiness. The iris falls into the background where it plays wonderfully with vetiver and tonka bean. That’s where it stays, a mildly rooty and mildly sweet vanillic iris. Nothing new or groundbreaking but very pretty. French, effortless, chic. In the drydown when skin warms up the peony shows up and it's just absolutely pretty with the iris that one can't help but smile.

I love iris and discovering a new one is always a pleasure. I can smell all the aspects of the iris, flower, stem, leafs and root. Not too earthy, carroty or challenging. Not very original, but it doesn't have to be if it's done right. There is a resemblance with Iris Syracuse, but this one has a lovely drydown. Smooth, pleasant and comfortable. Gracious.

Beautifully presented iris in its perfumerist’s best floral bouquet with tiny bit of vetiver. A safe buy for iris lovers, calm and sensual.

there is a darkness lurking in the background even from the beginning, but never takes over. like a handsome guy with an evil dark side

Bitter green foliage and violets under the moonlight

On my skin, Bruma is a flowing harmony of iris, violet and suede. It opens with mildly carrot-like and starchy, but mostly waxy iris, and slightly tart fruity ionone reminiscent of violet. If I sniff closely, there is also a discreet green pepperiness mixed within. Occasionally, I also get brief impressions of waxy lipsticks, but nothing overtly powdery. The fragrance doesn't have any dramatic change, but moves from one phase to another in incremental steps. The waxy texture of iris is gradually replaced by a abstract, supple suede. There's just a tiny trace of hay to enhance the animalic tenderness of suede. I suspect that there might be something similar to heliotropine as well, because the whole effect of musky violet-suede is reminiscent of a heftier dry down of Hermès Cuir d'Ange to my nose. Just as I thought Bruma would remain this plush violet-suede, the nutty aspect of vetiver makes an unexpected appearance and adds a bit of grit in this otherwise elegant suede, which is a welcoming twist to Bruma. Bruma has a soft sillage and lasts about 8 hours on my skin. Although Bruma is hardly innovative as a polished floral suede, it's solidly made with its little twist of nutty vetiver, and far from being banal. Its lack of dramatic change might fail to leave a strong initial impression, but its smoothness and fluidity would make it a refined yet versatile fragrance in various settings. I'd definitely recommend it to fans of elegant iris-violet-suede fragrances, especially if you favour a more abstract, effortless style.

This one opens with a blast of galbanum, supported by a powdery iris. Then, the galbanum disappears to leave the lead to a powdery iris, supported by sweet florals. In the base , the iris tones down a bit, and co-stars with tonka, supported by a hint of labdanum. This one is VERY close to Ulrich Lang Lightscape (especially in the top and heart). Probably because of the strong tonka note, in the drydown it becomes very similar to Miller Harris Etui Noir. Again a very refined creation by Trudon. I love the scent, but like for other creations of this house, I feel that the $210 price tag is not fully justified given the poor performance and non-uniqueness. Because of that I would recommend UL Lightscape over this one (which retails for ~$50 on ebay), and will have to downgrade my vote to just a like until it appears at discounters. Will gladly enjoy my travel spray while it lasts, but will not go for a full bottle afterwards. Totally unisex, Spring days, women 20+, men 30+

Bruma is flamboyant floral fragrance. At first peppery and strongly saturated with lavender and violets. Then iris and jasmine turns fragrance into powdery. Although there is no musk or ambra in composition, base notes smell to me animalistic. Warm because of vetiver and heavy, sensual. The perfume starts with almost sweet girly notes but definitely ends with matured, vamp. The transformation is stunning and I have to say I am enjoying it very much. This is splendid perfume for nights. Seductive, absolute and perfectly matched. Sillage is stronger than moderate but not loud. Longevity about 2-3hrs.

Buttery iris-violet, pepper and peachy peony – icy and abstract – the opening is almost vegetal before the iris fades and the top becomes a diaphanous floral bouquet tinged slightly green. Bruma becomes gently warm as it evolves; vetiver’s ever evolving dusty and smoky characteristics move to the fore before tonka bean lends a hay-like sweetness. There is an elegant powderiness too, clean and pale. Bruma is beautiful and contemporary, if unassuming. Sits very close to the skin, with moderate longevity. 6.5/10

Quite a green violet-iris scent with a dusty element in the background... In the middle part (which is the part I like best) is a sweet violet-iris combo that really works well, but it's lacking in any base at all; it's all top, and unfortunately it comes across as incomplete... I do like this one, truth be told, but it's not entirely for me...

THe reviews are little bit misleading This have nothing common with FM iris and with Boucheron iris This is different iris, vetiver , smokey .. It is like you are close to elegant lady with iris perfume who drunk alcohol and smoekd cigarette in her leather/seude gloves It is very soft elegant nice classic scent

You may as well just be holding a bunch of Iris - would recommend if that is what you're after. Flowery, powdery and definitely feminine, it would really suit a much older wearer. Maybe I'd riff it for a bright and fresh daytime adventure: an early Devonshire Tea or fancy luncheon.

I love the green-smelling galbanum that opens the fragrance and then the exquisite powdery iris appears later. This fragrance is refined and understated. It doesn't announce. Swoon worthy really. . .Yet it's fleeting, only lasting a couple of hours. fbw at the 100usd mark. unisex.

OK this one is interesting; the opening is so distinctly a lovely earthy iris, but quickly the heart becomes violet and labdanum (almost similar to Black Saffron or Dedcool 03). Love this opening; like the heart.

An airy, flowery and animalic perfume. It is sweet yet dusty and intriguing. It reminds me a bit of Purple Oud by Dior, though way softer. It would probably appeal more to older, elegant women with confidence.

Fir and the scent of tinsel Christmas decorations taken down from the attic. When wearing Bruma, I enter into an emphatic dreamy urgent need to drift through the streets to a park after the rain has stopped.

one word: vintage! A powdery iris with an animalic undertone (not dirty animalic, just vintage animalic). The florals are quite prominent and it definitely leans feminine. Very pretty.

I enjoy its beginning, but I think it's not unisex, after a few hours it becomes very feminine.

To me this smells very similar to Black Saffron but without the leather

spritzed bruma on after a shower and was greeted by a lovely iris scent that quickly dried down to a powdery odor that's unfortunately reminiscent of baby wipes. the galbanum makes this perfume smell damp and dank on my skin. disappointed because i love all of the notes in theory but something about the iris + heavy coumarin gives off an unpleasant old lady smell. however, it performed quite weakly on me, so i guess it wasn't a scrubber at the very least.

smell like a ceaser salad to me

I'm surprised by so many positive reviews of this fragrance. To me, it is quite linear, overly bitter, and too peppery. In general, I like unisex perfumes, but this one definitely leans masculine, which is too much for me to wear. When I spray it on my skin, I can sense mostly galbanum and pepper notes, with little to no iris and vetiver. I don't find this scent to be pleasant on me, but also I would not consider it to be attractive on a man. The price tag is definitely too high for this fragrance, as it lacks complexity and depth, and the presented note pyramid is not reflected in the actual perfume. It's a pass for me.

Got a sample of this and before having looked at the notes I found it to be fresh spicy and kind of vintage smelling. Looking at the notes now, the only one I could recognise was the black pepper. And I guess the green bitterness is from the galbanum. I didn't get any iris or violet. Fresh, green and bitter. Not for me. And not anything amazing considering the price tag.

A screeching powdery scent that dry out my nose and i think I'm allergic to one of the ingredients in here fr. aside from the allergy discovery i swear to god this smelled better at the store... but after buying it, its just pepper and powder with the shittiest performance EVER

Very pleasant Longevity meh Projection regular Overall weak performance

Bruma was presented to me as an iris scent, which is right up my alley. But to me, Bruma does not smell particularly of iris. I mean, yes, there's iris, but it isn't what I'd call a primarily iris fragrance. It smells of too many other things. It's green. It's floral. It's powdery. It's peppery. It's aromatic. It has an old-fashioned vibe. It's quite perfume-y. It's warm, but also cool. It's cozy. It's musky. It's one of those fragrances that can fit any occasion, be worn in any temperature, and has become something I reach for when I really don't know what I feel like wearing. Bruma is subtle, sophisticated, balanced, velvety and a bit mysterious. It is always perfect. I honestly adore it. It starts out soft and girly, and a bit old-fashioned, with definite iris and violet but also the dry warmth of pepper and a whisper of leather. It's like rummaging through a suede purse and pulling out a lipstick. It's also green and floral in turn, as if that purse was outdoors, in a garden. For a moment, there's also something vaguely candied about it, though it's not sweet. As if that lipstick has become pastilles instead, but are still living in that purse. Sometimes, when I wear this, I get a whiff of something clean wafting up from my shirt. It's basically the same floral/lightly green scent, but in a different form. A shift from powdery to soapy. Actually, Bruma isn't really powdery, but rather coated in a gauzy floral veil that's airy rather than heady. If you're into floral scents that seem to veer a bit old-fashioned (yet don't smell vintage), give Bruma a try.

@chanka -- I only partially agree about the resemblance to the Frederick Malle Iris Poudre (in fact taking it absolutely literally ("nothing like") I don't agree atall !). When I first acquired Iris Poudre after colossal deliberation with the extremely patience-replete assistance of the excellent Frederick Malle lady Sandra in Selfridges boutique, I had a gnagging doubt that it was a duplicate of one I already had, but could just not remember which exactly! Then I suddenly remembered! and I hastened to the 'cabinet' (actually a very motley bunch of bags & boxes!) to get this out so I could compare them together. I did satisfy myself that they are not dupes ... yet I well-understood why I had gotten so alarmed. In fact, I took this one into Selfridges & told Sandra the story & asked her opinion ... and she did agree. I think this is more opaque than Iris Poudre : that one to me is more sparkly & crystalline - more of an olfactory cut glass , sort of thing. I'm sure I'll think of more analogies over time. I'm glad I've been prompted to get this out of the 'cabinet' again, & I'm reminded now of why I liked it in the first place. I think if what you want is a well-built stately spacious abode in Irissiland with a spectacular but constant view out of the window, then the FM fragrance would suit better ... but if you wish to go exploring the sequestered nooks & inaccessible summits of that land, then go for this one. I find it a really quite extraordinary fragrance.

I am admittedly not all that familiar with the house of Maison Trudon. I know that for many years Maison Trudon has made luxury candles and has only recently branched out to include a niche line of fragrances. Bruma was recommended to me by a lovely sales assistant as a potential wedding day scent. Bruma is a fresh, powdery floral with a bit of a difference. The opening notes resemble the scent of freshly chopped carrots. Bruma smelt initially like a fragrance I would expect from Jean-Claude Ellena with a Hermes sticker slapped on the front of the bottle. Once the vegetal aroma dies down, Bruma begins to showcase a soft floral blend of powdery violet, iris and galbanum. I don't smell the peony note at all in this fragrance, there's no hint of rosiness nor richness whatsoever. The overall blend is light and somewhat dusty. The drydown is quite vanillic on my skin with the tonka bean accord providing a buttery, sweet finish to this unique fragrance. I really enjoyed wearing Bruma, although admittedly it's not something I would ever purchase for myself. Bruma has however sparked my curiosity to explore more from this newly released fragrance line.

A very light, faint gem of a fragrance. It evolved over the short time I could smell it on my skin from a greenish floral to a musky powder, but extremely short lived. this is the pretty young college freshman who hangs out at the law library, She wears soft warm cashmere turtlenecks and sports reading glasses even though she doesnt need them. She tends to play coy, her nose in a book while the local green glass shaded desk lamp illuminates the soft highlights in her hair. She waits for her pre-law man to notice - he has to really move in close to catch in her very femmy scent.

This is a pleasant, but relatively unremarkable, iris-dominant scent. This starts as a dry, woody iris. As it develops the iris (in combination with the labdanum) takes on a bit more of a leather vibe and goes into a floral direction. When I tested this on paper it was relatively unisex, but on skin, this goes floral and feminine on me. I was very disappointed in the performance (especially in light of the price)- this only lasted a few hours on me. It's a nice fragrance, but not a must-have. Notes on Fragrantica aren't accurate.

Transparent, airy, uplifting. Bruma is a refined scent that whispers quietly about sophisticated grown-up kind of things. The iris in this is just right, not too loud. Light florals support it, adding a clean, musky freshness to the mix. It wears pretty close to the skin, but that's how it should with an intimate scent like this. Leans more to the feminine side of the spectrum, but that's fine for me and any other non-alpha males out there, and females of course. Totally perfect for a wedding.

Huh. I didn't get a sensual, lovely vision out of this one. I got rooty. waxy iris in a nice way, with some woods, but it dries fast to nothing much and there are some alcohol wood notes that creep in. Mostly it’s so sheer I smelled very little from start to finish. Not hated but not impressed. AND when I make my wrist wet with the fragrance to try and smell SOMETHING, I smell woody carroty iris/orris root until dry down, which goes to mysore sandalwood, which I dislike greatly. not for me

Bruma by Trudon is an amazing unisex fragrance. To my nose it has similar vibes to BDK Gris Charnel (and Extrait) and Dior Homme Intense. The Iris is prominent which makes it powdery and comforting; perfect for Iris lovers. I also detect a slight leather note adding a bit of darkness, broodiness and class. Although this has strong notes, it is not a loud in your face fragrance. It is classy and can be worn on most occasions, day or night. It makes a perfect signature scent.

I've been bordering on just liking Bruma for a few years. Although it is very pleasing I don't think I will ever fall in love with an iris perfume. This is probably the closest I will get, but I'll keep an open mind. The scent itself is well blended and has a refined, but reserved quality - enough to be interesting without needing to speak loudly. soft sweet/earthy dry down. My third favourite from Trudon behind Olim and Mortel.

Nice. Pretty. A bit boring actually. I wear some of the bigger frags from this house (Mortel and Mortel Noir) and am a big fan of the Ernesto and Abd El Kader candle scents. Thats where I see Bruma fitting in...in a candle scent made for the bathroom or a morning room. Its ok.

Iris, but make it peppery and fresh. I like it, the purple florals are really pleasant. This is in the same vein as Porcelain Pulse by Roan. A lot of fresh layers with a vegetal sweetness. I think it's nice, not sure if I love it enough to get more. 8/10

A watercolor painting from the Musee D'Orsay collection made of three colors: Purple, green and yellow. Notes: Orris root, Galbanum, Peonies and Pepper. This is beautiful!

Too much of everything, mostly peony, tonka, with slight violets and some vetiver. Lapdanum, iris, and tobacco are there as well. Kind of a chaos rather than balanced.

My nose pics up the non floral notes on this one. Peppery, woody, masculine lean. ✨

Soft waxy iris/rose, nothing I would consider at all to be sensual