Cologne Noire

Maybe I'm more "unisex tolerant" than most people but I absolutely don't feel that this is too masculine. Not masculine at all I would say. According to my nose Cologne Noire is one of those "unlabeled" unisex scents, the ones that are unisex for real, if you know what I mean. Most unisex scents lean towards one sex and not balancing on the fine line inbetween which makes the good ones magical. At first I get a bitter, non gourmand orange mixed with black pepper. Strong and convenient, I fell in love at this stage already. The orange is very potent on my skin, and if it wasn't I could understand why some people find it masculine. But that's just my guess. In a short while the deep woody notes comes out, it basically smells like a newly chopped down spruce tree, when it's still moist from the water inside. So "zesty" and earthy in a way. These woodsy notes keep getting softer and softer throughout the day, making it more and more comfortable and romantic. This would be lovely on a night out, it's not a classic "girls night out scent" (Parisienne, I'm talking about you! *sigh*) so I guess this would catch peoples attention without being "WOAH god damn it, what are you WEARING?" without knowing if people really like it or not. No, it's comfortable, sexy and soft, not too deep and not too fresh, just a perfect interesting scent!

Probably the most masculine of this line. Fresh and spicy opening, with an elegant floral-woody drydown. Like others have said, I would definitely not pay the $200+ it retails for. Indeed, it is nothing new or groundbreaking, especially 10 years after it has been issued. Some similarities Cartier Declaration and Voyage d'Hermes, but a step higher in quality. One downside though: on my skin, projection is just moderate, overspraying needed! (I sometimes get small whiffs a couple of hours in, though) That said, the quality is here, and at $55 for a large bottle on ebay, it was a no-brainer for me! Fall/Spring days, 30+ Edit: now worn for the 3rd time: projection has improved, and again, not groundbreaking but still, it's great (not just good). It has something "more" compared to other freshies, probably Mark Buxton's signature. Feels nearly niche, I'll wear it more, it's now a love for me!

My favorite genre in perfumery is Fresh Spicy, Van Cleef's interpretation of that genre is good, damn good. I agree with an earlier review that said this fragrance is similar to YSL l'homme but it's more natural smelling in my opinion. The ginger snaps off my skin with a flash of pepper and one of the most natural smelling oranges in the game. The neroli smells so clean and the cardamon is just spicy enough to let you know it's there. I get close to 12 hours of performance with a nice 3-4 foot scent bubble. Found this on the grey market for $90USD, heck of a good deal.

Gorgeousness in a bottle! I love it. It's refreshing, uplifting, sensual as hell, romantic and divine! It lasts incredibly well on my skin and clothes, which is lovely because it's such an enticing smell. I love every moment of it. Such a gorgeous mix of things - the pepper and ginger are woh! stunning! And the citrus and cardamom and soft wood, with the sweet freshness of the neroli, all combine to make this totally wonderful So romantic. Always makes me feel, ooooh... like hugging someone! It's very elegant and caressing too. Love it very much!

UPDATE! Now I've found a sister to this scent. Penhaligon's Elixir. If Cologne Noire is too sharp and manly on you but you like the concept, try Elixir instead, you won't be disappointed. It's rounder and sweeter, but with the same woodsy spicy feeling to it. What a coincidence! Now that I scrolled through the reviews I must say that systeme_d nailed the words that I was trying to form, Elixir (and other similar scents) has a warmth that Cologne Noire lacks. It's cooler and more elegant, while Elixir is more romantic.