Yohji Homme 1999

I’m thrilled to report that I’ve scored a unicorn: an unsprayed, 100-ml bottle of OG Yohji Homme. Launched in 1999 by Japanese fashion house Yohji Yamamoto, when its fragrances were still under the Jean Patou label, it was designed by nose Jean-Michel Duriez, probably with support from legendary Patou in-house perfumer Jean Kerleo. Yohji Homme attained mythical status and a cult following in the early 2000s, later cemented by Luca Turin’s rave, five-star review in his first Guide with Tania Sanchez (2008). Honestly, the juice is pretty freaking incredible. I haven’t been able to stop sniffing it since I got it a few days ago (I’ve worn it twice at night, once for a formal dinner and once before bedtime). Today’s my first full-day run with it. It has a complex, three-part structure consisting of 1) an anisic fougère that lightly treads on 2) gourmand territory and ends on 3) a dark, chypre-like base. The first time I smelled the opening it reminded me distantly of Davidoff Zino and Azzaro Pour Homme — the former, due to the lavender-rosewood; the latter, because of the lavender-anise. But all reminiscences end immediately, as Yohji begins to unfurl its secrets and take an utterly unique path toward an unexpected destination. After the initial aromatic burst featuring bergamot, lavender, anise, and coriander, it gains in depth and warmth with cinnamon, a more prominent rosewood, and a delicious licorice accord that functions as the pivot to transition from fougère to gourmand. I can discern geranium (or is it carnation?), but whatever florals are present are subtle and quickly subsumed by the irruption of its base protagonists, the real stars of the show: a boozy rum that takes you for a spin, a rich coffee that provides sturdy comfort (and prevents a hangover) and a fine grain, worn-in, brown leather that is only slightly sweetened by high-quality tonka beans and a creamy sandalwood. Heaven. Yohji Homme was a pioneer and is the perfect gourmand for those of us who don’t usually like gourmands. It’s merely gestural in this regard, in no way evoking anything truly edible. Rum and coffee: two of the best aromas in the world, especially to someone from Guatemala, like me. I have now found my holiday season holy grail: light, fresh, spicy, warm, boozy, semisweet, suave, inviting, and effortlessly interesting. No wonder it’s a legend.

Victor Hugo once wrote that if you look in the eyes of the young, you see flame but if you look in the eyes of the old, you see light. Paradoxically, this fragrance manages to combine wisdom with youth. Yohji Homme is a playfull fougere that whispers and manages to say so many. Hybrid in nature but pure in its intent, extremely complex and understated it enters the most virile category and achieves being a unique stand-out. Furthermore, it adds tremendous depth and energy in an otherwise too sober genre with a composition that screams of great inspiration and heavy work. Every time I wear it something new comes to my nose. It is has the freshness of lavender, the bittersweet aspect of licorice and the woody suaveness of cedar. It uses old school florals like carnation combined with modern notes of coffee and rum gifting an overall fresh warmness. The quality of the materials is way above mainstream and the fragrance gives me a sense of melancholy of easy going days when the confidence of youth made me believe I could go through walls. It also reminds me that with age usually comes exhaustion and not necessarily wisdom. Funny that like those days this beautiful fragrance has been discontinued. As of 2013, happily re-issued.

Yohji Homme by Yohji Yamamoto The good: Yohji Homme is crème brûlée of the fragrance world. It pushed the boundaries of fragrance classification, and much more. A dignified and unique answer to Annick Menardo's brilliant Lolita Lempicka, Yohji Homme took the "gourmand" genre and gave it a new face. A lot of gourmands are definitely warm and sweet, but often they're too sweet and can lack substance. What Yohji does is give sweetness to elements that aren't usually sweet, and gives comfort and sensuality to the accords that already are sweet. And, through the lavender and hints of coumarin, Yohji Homme becomes a successful gourmand/fougère hybrid with a decadent "roasted" quality reminiscent of a crème brûlée. Sillage and longevity are both excellent, but Yohji Homme is never invasive or cloying. The bad: Yohji Homme is discontinued and getting harder and harder to find. The ugly: Someday there may very well be no more Yohji Homme out there. Bottom line: Guys and girls, try it already. Yohji Homme is one of those fragrances that redefines perfumery as an art form, and basically establishes what a "good" fragrance can be.

This is sold in Singapore still though it's getting harder to find. Still, I got a 30ml bottle today for $45 SGD = $20 USD. What a steal! Regarding the scent, I actually got a whiff of it from a guy friend of mine and I knew I HAD to have it. It was love from first sniff! Warm, inviting, cozy thanks to the rum, licorice and coffee yet the citrusy opening makes it fresh and invigorating. Definitely try it! It's just so lovely and comforting, my go-to bed fragrance when my loved one is overseas and I miss his embrace.

I have just discovered this fragrance, and I'm sick that I missed its glory days. There are a few bottles available online, but they are expensive. I bought one anyway. The anis and lavender are exquisitely clean. The woods are so fresh. Yes, fresh. The overall experience is divine. This has been instantly elevated in my mind to a favorite.