La Collection Jazz

@Regular_dude Yes that's a very valid point you raised here. Chemicals have different longevity: for example, the most fragile notes are citrus and flowers, while the most resistant are woody notes. Furthermore, the storage is critical, and even in the best conditions, a fragrance will start evolving as soon as 10 years after production for the weakest notes. Since even the woody fragrances often contain citrus and/or florals, some evolution is unavoidable. Indeed, people comparing newer fragrance with old formulations are making a comparison with the old formulation as of today, that is a smell that is not what it was when at the time it was issued. I previously raised that on forums (and also review page of Fahrenheit), since, in my opinion, comparing old with new is just totally ridiculous, unless there is less than 3-5 years between the 2 batches, and that storage conditions were optimal (a variable more often than not unknown). It may be worth getting an original YSL M7 for example (very woody/resinous, more resistant chemicals) since it has been discontinued since "just" 10 years - assuming you trust the seller for the storage conditions. At the opposite, suggesting to get an old formulation of, let's say, Dior Eau Sauvage or Fahrenheit, is simply a very bad advice, since major notes in these are respectively lemon and violet, and the risk that they are altered is very high. (even in good storage condition). It's like if people state to compare the job of the old winemaker with the new one by comparing a 2018 wine with a 1997 one. One can compare the juices differences as of today, but not the "quality" of the work (formulation). And as it has been stated in a previous comment, fragrances are not wine, and while their olfactive qualities can slightly improve in the first few months after opening because of a little air entering the bottle (the juice "grows"), and will then slowly keep declining after that. One can say for example: "In my opinion Fahrenheit smells better 20 years after being opened", or "as of 2018, I prefer how the 1995 batch smells today compared to how the 2015 batch smells today", or even "the 2015 seems similar to the bottle I used in 1995"... but not "the 1995 batch is better than the 2015"... and on top of that, one have to factor in that each person's opinion is very subjective... Maybe the person prefer the 1995 batch because it has lost the smell of gasoline - because the violet aromachemical may have degraded - that the newer batch stills have, and states "the 1995 is better than the 2015" for that reason) In one sentence: yes, ignore old/new batch comparisons, as it just doesn't make any sense. Just rely on your nose. That's my advice.

@Andy,@Regular, Just had to chip in to this conversation, as I very much like that you brought this up and I have also contemplated on this topic (further below my thoughts from another chain but I could've written it in any space as this isn't only about certain frags, and not even only about frags like you pointed, but anything with alcohol). In order not to get too much off topic and to respect this space I have to say that the style Jazz represents is fast becoming one of my favourite sub categories in fragrance; a zesty fougere. I agree that it may have a slightly darker hum than its late 80s early 90s contemporaries Safari, Pasha, and Cerruti (love!), in that it is also a sparkling somehow acidic but tasty fizz that radiates from the gent's skin in a semi provocative way. When I sampled this (Collection bottle) it reminded me immediately of something very familiar from my childhood when I wasn't yet old enough to wear frags, which is to say this one aligned exactly with something in my scent memory. Maybe that is the best and only way of comparing the old with the new... Back to the topic that inspired me to partake (This part from an earlier review about Acqua di Parma Colonia): [...]But I like the aroma of my 10yr old 'angel's share' bottle, as, I feel, the colonia becomes more concentrated every year, so I might buy a new one also to have 2 slightly different vintages/evolutions[...] And that [...]I think a lot of the reformulation speculation (on any frag) is due to this angel's share, that mysterious amount of drink that disappears from unopened bottles of old cognac for example.. I think every time you spray, more air gets in, and consequently more alcohol will evaporate. And that air (just like with wine) affects change in the molecules, and evap. leaves a more concentrated and developed liquid. I dont blame the evolution of scent on reforms as much as some - although also AdP themselves openly admit they periodically update the ingredients listings to be in accordance w changing regulation of their original that has existed since 1916 (here the power of story and marketing conflicts but is greater than the boring and complicated reality and I like it that way) - I still believe perfume is alive, and develops a little every day, until it's peak[...]

Coriander and Patchouli, a lovely, classic fougere fragrance I remember well from my teens in the black and white zig-zag bottle - I actually own the slightly later one with the clear bottle and a zig-zig cap as well, although it's now cream and black and not white and black and the juice inside is a bit worse for wear. I can't speak for the latest version of this that people are negative towards as I've never sampled it, I have the 80ml 2011 La Collection version pictured in the listing here, and it's really good, although I don't think the projection is quite as powerful as the '90s version I remember well (could be nostalgia playing a part however,) it's definitely far better than the scores here suggest in regards to longevity and sillage. In no way would I ever describe 2011 Jazz as weak, it's potent stuff and only needs 2 sprays to last half a day. The new formulation must really be watered down to get some weak votes. I'm assuming most people are voting for the later formulation in the clear bottle. If you can get a bottle of the La Collection version I'm certain you wouldn't be disappointed. After a quick Google I found a few BNIB 80mls for about £20 more than the new variation, which to me is more than worth the extra outlay if Jazz is your style, £70 doesn't get you much in today's fragrance world and this is a masterpiece which will become harder and harder to find.

Interesting review below. I'm saying something similar but perhaps a touch more gung ho! I think this new version is very similar to the original to the point I wouldn't waste money on a vintage bottle for the mistake of rose tinted nostalgia. Not a criticism of anyone that does mind you, I'm guilty of it all the time. I too owned this during the 90's (perhaps not the original formula anyway) but I'd say it's pretty much as I remember. I think the references to Pasha and Tsar, Safari or New west etc... are valid in the drydown especially, it's a kind of open, light, resinous, 'leather' if you like. However, key differences in the opening is the cooling, soapy effects of geranium and the quite pungent, obvious spice hit of coriander, which persists as a top note for the first hour or so. Making it completely valid as a different option to the ones I mentioned above and not redundant next to them in a wardrobe. (I have all tjose perfumes and still revisit this with glee!) Is it as powerful? Well I genuinely recall all those perfumes of that era as being stronger but this... I'm not sure? It's mellow. I'm wearing plenty of sprays on skin and clothes today and the volume is pitch perfect. I think it's underrated in the scheme of vintage men's perfumes, it smells fantastic and something I wish to wear.

This new release is actually pretty well-done - enough so for me not to miss or hanker too much after the original version. I'm currently comparing classic/original Jazz (black and white bottle) on one arm with new "la Collection" Jazz on the other. And you know what? There's really not much difference. Yes, I concur with the general consensus that the the old one is a bit richer, fuller, darker and the new one is a bit thinner, lighter and brighter. But I can only detect this difference sniffing up close. In a nutshell - and to stick with the musical theme - It's like there is a bit more bass in the original, and the treble has been turned up a touch on the newer one. There could be a method to their madness here ... it's really the brighter top notes that "sing" in Jazz, that cut through and get noticed. So why not amp those up a bit? It's the sillage that really matters, and sprayed liberally, everyone who walks past you who knows and likes Jazz, will be able to tell that this is Jazz, and will enjoy it, just like you will be .... isn't that enough? NB: the list of five accords printed on the back of the bottle and replicated here on Fragrantica, is intended to be a guide to the main accords, NOT the full note pyramid.