Nu

Carnal, like intertwined bodies, in a realm of pleasure, in union and delight of being desired. Mystical as the twilight that hides the most lustful secrets, where mysteries are conceived, and we voluntarily lose ourselves in the freedom of be ourselves. Luminous, such as love, in the comfort of being who you are, and knowing you are loved. On my skin, Nu comes alive in an explosion of pepper, accompanied by a scalding bergamot. Gradually it launches the top notes into deeper waters... cardamom emerges, with its spicy aromatic aspect, followed by incense, creating a smoky green chord. Continuing to a highly carnal heart, with the blossoming of white flowers, where the orchid and jasmine make everything more lustful. At this point the musk gently permeates the entire fragrance. Nu becomes increasingly languid and woody, due to the presence of sandalwood and vetiver, the latter contributing even more to the smoky aspect of the fragrance. This fragrant frenzy persists for a long time, projecting more at first, leaving a large trail. Created in 2001, the structure of this perfume is oriental and evokes a timeless, almost futuristic era, also represented by its bottle, with its minimalist design, typical of the vibe of the beginning of the millennium. On the outside metallic, cylindrical, on the inside, a deep cobaltic blue. This combination is perfectly cohesive with the concept of its soft and modern essence, yet mysterious and striking. The presentation is also very coherent: the unique bottle, inside a transparent smoked plastic box. Nu is uncovered, but at the same time hermetic. Simple but enigmatic, just like a naked body is something discovered, albeit full of mysteries. Nu reflects the minimalist fashion of his own period, but ends up going against the tide. His eroticism is sober, refined and essentially intellectual, transforming his natural charm and distinction into a real power of attraction. A modern oriental, woody, spicy and incense floral, but above all, smooth, thanks to the mastery of its perfumer, Jacques Cavallier, and the briefing of its mentor, Tom Ford. Its aura also reminds me of YSL's “le smoking” fashion, a hybridism of male and female aspects, creating an androgynous, sensual and elegant fragrance. It is in this aspect that Nu establishes a completely shareable fragrance, just like a tuxedo. Even the typography of his name contextualizes this egalitarian and dualistic aspect: “nu” is written in lowercase letters, where one is exactly the opposite of the other. Nu is about being pure and sinful, sincere and mysterious, dark and radiant, modern and primal, feminine and masculine. Ethereal and carnal beauty, dirty and transparent, perfectly contextualized and never excessive. A sacred and profane elixir. A purifying perfume, led by the incense, which since ancient times is used to elevate the spirit, symbolizing the link between earth and heaven, between the carnal and divine. Pleasure is a space to giving in. Nu is my olfactory signature, and wearing it is my act of surrender. Without nu, I feel naked. With nu, I find my self.

Nu is one of those perfumes that was criminally underrated and under appreciated at its release and for quite some time afterwards. Part of this had to do with the absurd packaging. It’s atrocious. It has that greatest and ubiquitous of French traits in something newly developed and unproven: it doesn’t work. This is one of the most dodgy atomizers I’ve ever used - and that goes for all three bottles I have owned - and it is extremely awkward in the hand. I don’t really care about that. I will work my fingers to the bone and my brain into a headache if that’s what it takes to get to the juice. The silvery bergamot, cardamom, and neroli opening is blinding, the glint of a knife edge from polished steel thanks to the bitter sourness of the bergamot, cold and hard resinous woody aroma from the cardamom, and the metallic, bitter orange floral of the neroli. In the heart... white orchid. What a laugh. I grow orchids. It doesn’t smell like any orchid I’ve ever smelled and, more to the point, there are hundreds of orchids that can be white and just as many that have unique smells. Is this supposed to be a cattleya? Brassavola? Oncidium? Call this a masculine, carnation-leaning and indolic jasmine, generic white floral accord and be done with it. That’s an aside, because the stellar base of Nu is what this perfume is all about. The base augments the heart quite quickly, fortunately, and the two together give us one of the most beautiful floral and spicy Orientals created this century. Balsams, labdanum, spices, and incense present an airy and weightless yet rich and intoxicating brew that is endlessly addictive. Here’s a second reason why Nu probably didn’t initially do well, which is that it was - and was again in the rerelease - marketed as a feminine perfume. It isn’t. It is perfectly unisex. A man can easily wear this, and yet it would be striking on a woman as well. My how wayward YSL has gone with its perfumes in the last couple of decades. This is a true reminder that the brand gave us some amazing perfumes yesteryear, and this could very well be one of its best - right up there with Kouros, Opium, and Paris. A real and timeless classic for the ages.

During a few unseasonably cold April days this week, I decided to get acquainted with Nu, and it was well-suited for the cool air, feeling like a smoky veil with green-metallic flashes of bitter bergamot and rapier neroli in its opening act. There is a spare quality to it—in spite of it being comprised of elements usually regarded as heady and rich, there is this exquisite translucency to its churn of cardamon and black pepper, feeling sheer and mysterious. A frankincense hangs like Georgette fabric, a holograph of smoke and softness, substance and weightlessness. When the floral core ascends, it smells like dianthus, jasmine, even Korean-spice viburnum (in bloom as I write this!). It's deemed a "white orchid" accord, and yes, the flowers here are white as in ghostly. I'd like to think this idea was attributed to Tom Ford: he was on fire in the early 2000s, and sadly he is now a hapless caricature. I can't help but to imagine he also was the vision behind its highly impractical futuristic bottle with its cobalt blue interior. The last night I spent some time inhabiting Nu, I decided after applying to put on Jacques Tourneur's Out of the Past. The weary indifference of Robert Mitchum as Jeff Bailey matches the mood on my skin. The hard light, the cigarette smoke, severe profiles and stark silhouettes—Nu nods in accordance. Deep, dark shadows everywhere, while Nu melts into vetiver-adorned balsams like an ambiguous shape. The distant stare of Jane Greer as Kathie Moffat, the pouting lips of a femme fetale, and the smoky smolder of Nu is the Greek chorus. It turns out it is perfect for cold April days and nights viewing film noir. It was the new millennium's answer to Opium, trading the sumptuous for the metaphysical. It is resolutely unisex, and maybe not as "feminine" as the market expected from a female-marketed fragrance. By 2009, it was discontinued, in surplus at markdown shops, misunderstood and under-appreciated. Now it's scarce and mythical, and those have the chance to experience it are either nonplussed or they are enchanted. There seems to be no in between, really—like so many of the most ingenious perfumes.

YSL Nu edp: First And Foremost , Why , Why Why , Did YSL Ever Discontinue This Absolutely Stunning Beauty Of A Perfume?? Can Someone From YSL Please Explain The Thinking And Reason Behind This Decision!! And What Exactly Is Going On At The Fragrance Dept Of The House Of YSL Atm!! Im One Of The VERY Lucky Few That Still Has A Half Full 100ml Original YSL Nu , And A Brand New Unopened Original 50ml , That I Simply Would Not Part With!! I Absolutely Fell Head Over Heels In Love With Nu The Very First Time I Ever Smelt It At The YSL Counter While There To Buy My ALL Time Favourite YSL Signature Perfume "Rive Gauche"!! I Actually Came Away With Them Both That Afternoon!! (Lucky Sales Girl That Served Me) The Nu Fragrance Just Oooooozed Pure French Class At It's All Time Best, Following Closely Behind It's Forebearer Rive Gauche!! I Actually Remember A Very Well Dressed Lady , Tapping Me On The Shoulder In The Lift , And Politely Asking Me What Perfume It Was , That I Was Wearing , As It Smelt Absolutely Beautiful On Me!! From That Day , I Always Made Sure I Kept A Bottle/Round Disk Of It , Plus A Full Back Up Of It In My Vast Perfume Collection!! It And Rive Gauche Sitting Proudly Together On My Vanity!! You Talk About Being Totally Gutted , When I Was Told It Had Eventually Been Discontinued!! It Was Just So Unique In Everyway Possible!! The Only Other Perfume That Smells Very Close To It , And Is Somewhat Similar To It Is: "DIOR ADDICT edp"!! So Anyone Who Really Misses YSL Nu , Please Do Check That One Out ASAP!! Im Honestly Hoping That YSL Will One Day Re-Release Nu , And When They Do , I'll Be One Of The First Ones In The Que Looking To Purchase It Again!! This Beauty Should Firmly Be Up There With YSL Rive Gauche , And Such A Shame That It Is'nt!!!! 😭

Lately, I have been interested in adding more incense fragrances to my collection. Nu has definitely been a great acquisition. The cardoman is quite strong at first, which I don't mind, as it's a note I really enjoy. It is soon joined by a spicy and smokey incense accord that is present through the mid notes through the dry down. It's beautiful, and very sexy. It is joined by a creamy sandalwood that softens the composition, keeping it from becoming overly spicy without obliterating it. The silage and projection are strong. This is a fragrance that can be too much if over-sprayed. Wrists and neck work well for me. As for longevity, I sprayed several hours ago and it is still projecting. This is not a skin scent! I do not know how this compares to the newer version, and it's unlikely I will even compare them. It's becoming difficult to find, and what I have seen leans towards the pricey side. Mine is a 10 ml spray, but given the strength, I think even that size will last for a while. I don't know exactly how much influence Tom Ford had in the creation, but I think it must have been significant as it seems to be a prototype of many of his Private Collection scents. I will say that like a large percentage of TF's fragrances, it is unisex. Others say it leans masculine, but on me, I would say that I find it to be feminine because it certainly makes me feel seductive! This is a love for me, and I can tell already that this will be one I reach for for evening events in the winter, though honestly, I would wear it in the daytime as well. I don't think this would be safe for office wear given it's potency. I highly recommend it to all who appreciate incense and oriental fragrances.

Many modern commercial fragrances are criticized for being "front-loaded," meaning that all of the best notes and the olfactory interest of the fragrance occurs immediately after spraying, and then sort of piddles out throughout the midnotes and drydown. This makes the perfume more appealing to someone quickly testing it on a store shelf, and makes it less likely that wearers will be bothered by a fragrance becoming cloying over time. YSL's Nu is interesting because it is the complete opposite. The very onset is a little confusing and busy, but the midnotes and drydown are really the best parts of this fragrance. It starts off very spicy-amber and smells almost like a medicinal serum. It's not bad but it doesn't really smell like an actual fragrance that you would spray on. After about 10-15 minutes the cardamom, pepper, and vetiver soften and meld into the sensual floral, sandalwood, and incense notes. There is also a comely skin-scent musk underneath everything that makes the composition smell confident and nubile. Just a note on the bottle -- I think it is extremely chic and one of the best designs I've ever seen. It's a little difficult to tell how it functions from photos, but the outside is a silver hockey puck shape that can be opened up to reveal a deep purple inside where you can spray out the fragrance. It looks beautiful sitting on a shelf but is also completely protected if you wish to throw it in your handbag. Nu is a lovely, thoughtful fragrance and I enjoyed getting to try it out.

Phew this one really is intense! I finally got myself a small, used bottle of it after lusting over it for ages. (About the bottle; I actually think it's lovely. I really like the design and the color is downright cool!) I sprayed it on in anticipation and was greeted by an electrifying cardamom note, graced with the slight zing of bergamot. It's quite intense and loud. The heartnotes appear quite quickly: the cardamom is joined by a heavy, dark pepper (does that make sense lol), which is complemented by a lovely incense note. Soon after these two notes appear a super indolic floral comes forth. I don't recognize it as the orchid note though, it's rather a very intense jasmine. It's verging on headache inducing but it's balanced by the other notes (thank god). At this point the fragrance is something of a red hot flash - a sizzling fire with scouring sparkles. The drydown is more to my liking. The sandalwood appears, supported by a dusty vetiver and semi dirty musk. It still maintains the spicyness and slight floralness, though. Spiced and smooth! Sillage is huge, longevity is outstanding. The EdT is in comparison a lot more floral, sheer and dries down to a slightly peppered vanilla iris combo. At the moment, I still prefer the EdT, simply because the jasmine comes off almost too strong on my skin in the EdP formulation. Need to try it a few more times, I'm sure it can turn into a love for me. Still recommended though!

Back in the early aughts the world was blessed with innovative, unique, and great fragrances. They were seductive and brash. They had their own personalities. They were ahead of their time. YSL’s Nu falls into this category. If this was released today it would be a smash hit. Instead we have a barrage of flankers from Black Opium, La Vie Est Belle, Mon Paris, etc. They have their devoted fans and the fragrances sell well. It makes business sense. However, in my opinion they don’t offer anything truly different between each release. Tom Ford was at YSL when this was released. His influence is apparent. This reminds me slightly of Black Orchud, and later in his Private Blend collection a fragrance entitled Shanghai Lily was released, which is a total dupe of this, but also was discontinued. It’s time for fragrance houses to move away from th sickly sweet perfumes that permeate the shelves, and bring back some sexiness with perfumes like this. This is sex in a bottle. It’s unique, it’s vulgar, it isn’t meek. The scent is very incense heavy with floral notes that sit in the background such as jasmine, orchid. Cardamon gives it some spiciness. Fans of this fragrance would buy this in droves, and those who haven’t tried it would likely fall for its allure. YSL bring it back!

During his stay at YSL Tom Ford gifted us three absolutely great fragrances - Nu, Rive Gauche PH and M7 (pillars). And some excellent flankers - Kouros cologne Sport and Body Kouros. Since his leave this revered house went on a flanker trip that they have not yet returned from. I did try Y in edp, and it’s ok, but nothing remarkable. I am yet to test Libre. My point is that these three fragrances under TF were most likely the last great YSL pillars. (Not a fan of the ~ 20 and counting L’Homme / Le Nuit releases) And yes, these three YSL classics were early signs of things to come for Mr. Ford. Nu is marketed for women because I guess men are not supposed to look in the mirror. Wrong, this is more masculine than many recent “male” fragrances. Oddly enough I find the way the heavily spicy incense is counterattacked by the light flowery accord very similar to the way the Kouros-ity is reduced by the flowery accord in Kouros Cologne Sport. Nu is amazing, and I am happy I have this mirror to look into once in a while. It’s incensy, it’s fresh, it’s piquant and intimate with a slight touch of indecency under it all that is just the cherry I need. My bottle with a batch from 2001 smells like the sandalwood used is of very high quality, milky woody heaven. *****

I scored a bottle of this sometime between 2005 and 2010, can’t remember exactly, but it’s in the disc bottle, and one side is silver the other is a dark blue. I bought it because it was cheap, marked down on clearance, for 20 bucks or something. I had no idea it was a holy grail of perfumes. At first spray, what the hell did I buy?! Strong, spicy peppery! I did not care for it at first, but seems to be the norm for me with spicy scents, they have to grow on me! I have learned to not spray on my neck or chest, no more than 2 sprays and because it is so rich and rare, I wear probably 4x a year or so! I don’t care for the bottle, super 80’s, in my opinion! Once you get used to it, it is a very rich, luxurious, divine scent with great longevity and silage! Perfect for Thanksgiving or Christmas! Cardamom, bergamot, incense, pepper, sandalwood, and musk! I think this one got me loving bergamot! I have Si, Lolita and so far that’s the only one that I would say reminds me of Nu. There’s a resemblance, but not a dupe! I need to find a good substitute because I’ll be lucky if my bottle lasts another year! The longevity on this is amaze balls, I could still smell it 12 hours later and the dry down is divine! It’s a rich, musky vanilla!

The onset of Nu (EDP 2001)is confusing: too strong and bitter, almost medicinal and masculine smell, it softens later and its heart is subversive but divine; pure black magic: woody, spicy, smoky with a hint of incense and a coffee note (even though there is no coffee in the recipe). The scent doesn't come across as a flowery one to me (Nu EDT 2003 is definitely more flowery version, because of the addition of neroli to its head and also iris to its heart) But what I adore most of all in this fragrance is its base - androgynous potion of sandalwood, musk and vetiver and yet it smells surprisingly feminine and sexy on my skin. Overall, Tom Ford's creation is superb- integral and harmonious scent of sophisticated woman: sensual and spiritual, celestial and sexy. And she is exquisitely dressed too. Total Solar Eclipse!!! Isnt she gorgeous?!!! My homage and million thanks to the Master. As usual all fragrances that I love seem to be not in favour of popular tastes and therefore are discontinued. The gem has been lost....again and again... And a new gem has been found in Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez 2014, that I would suggest to try for all lovers of Nu O:-)

Opens a bit funky and sharp (also possibly due to age although that does fade. I think its the bergamot) and then becomes this dark, spicy woody fragrance which really is a perfect match to the dark purplish hue of the bottle. Intense and not for everyone, I find the previous comments really explain it very well. This is 100% the prototype for Black Orchid which was released by Tom Ford about 5 years later. Interestingly this is also a product from the YSL period where they had Tom Ford creative direction so we can see where he started to really focus on fragrances and created some gems (also at Gucci which he also was helming at this period). Its similar in composition to Black Orchid but not as dry, a little more open and with more focus on the florals. Comparing to Armani Mania from 1999, this is a lot more intense and stronger. They are very different in my opinion although they do share a similar unisex spicy floral vibe. But Nu is definitely much more intense and you can tell its a 2000s YSL. Perfectly unisex at least by 2020s standards.

[review originally posted on MakeupAlley 2005]: This review is for the edp (I also love the edt and plan to get it for layering). This is the most gorgeous tainted incense scent I have ever smelled. Merely the mention of wild orchid describes the mood for me. Apologies for not writing a more content based review, but this one makes me emotional:) Super sexy, weird packaging which somehow fits, keeps my nose glued to my wrists...reminds me of the hottest nights out I've ever had. Presented by a Serge Lutens/ Shiseido SA at the Berlin Galeries Lafayette, it was like being given a jewel. Nursed a sample and bit the bullet buying the purse size spray (30 ml), even at a discount I find it slightly pricey for a non-niche or a mainstream perfume. It seems, and I hope, it is here to stay. Mysterious, alluring, brooding, spot and bang on IMO, a bit heavy handed and brash, but sweetly, like a swath of dark blue envelopping satin silk.

I am not sure if some of you will agree but NU is very much similar to Kingdom by Alexander McQueen. In both cases it was Jacques Cavallier who created the fragrances. NU is a wonderful mix of woods and spices, I can imagine it to be worn by an executive or company director - it makes a statement, it is powerful and extremely elegant. I would consider it inappropriate to be worn while jogging on a Saturday morning - this fragrance would simply not go with a casual stretchy jumper and leggins. NU is very spicy with only a hint of jasmine and strong vetiver base. What makes it slightly different from Kingdom is that NU does not oscillate on the borderline between masculine and feminine fragrances - even thought NU is quite strong and hardly floral, it is definitely on the women's side. I have not own a gem like that for quite a long time :-) Highly recommended for spicy lovers. Silage and lasting power are outstanding!

I found the tester vial that I had been saving since this perfume was launched in the early 2000s. Before spraying it, I recalled the fond memories of having tested this scent when it was first introduced, and thinking, lovely, deep, dark, but too mature for me (I was barely in my twenties). So today, in 2013, I finally unleashed the spirit in the little vial and immediately I was overcome by a pleasant waft of intense chai latte mixed with incense. Yes, these woods are lovely, dark and deep (Robert Frost), but also sweet, feminine, delicious, warm, enchanting, oh the list goes on... the only thing in my mind right now is.. how many sprays of this amazing smell do I have left in this vial, before it ceases to exist in the realms of reality? I am kicking myself for not having trusted my instinct back in the days, and purchasing a full bottle of this mystical scent. Glorious. I will be saving it for special occasions.

Early 2000's masterpiece by Jacques Cavallier for Yves Saint Laurent under Tom Ford's creative direction. This is my hidden gem. Most people have never smelled something like this on a man. When I put this on people ask me all the time what I'm wearing, and I don't mind telling anyone cause I know damn well nobody will be finding this juice. It's kind of in the same realm as Black Orchid; they both have that orchid note done in a very sophisticated 'Tom Ford' type of manner. The dry down of sandalwood, vetiver and musk is also very similar. However I dislike Black Orchid and I love Nu. I would say Nu is the predecessor, the initial inspiration. The biggest difference lies in the opening & middle notes: Nu is less flowery and fruity, and more smoky and spicy. It's just absolutely spellbinding and completely unisex. If you can get your nose on this go for it!

I got a clone of this in Italy and I think it must be very similar to original since it’s got the Tom ford DNA and also the orchid note smells quite similar to that of Black orchid’s I’m also basing my opinion of these very hard to find discontinued fragrances that I mention on the clones I’ve smelt. One of the best Yves Saint Laurent releases during tom ford’s time. I can see why ysl excluded these... it’s just tom ford. I prefer it to black orchid. This along with m7 are pretty cool from the tom ford period... rive gauche for men is pretty much a joke and there’s a reason why it’s discontinued as long as my clone is similar and I’m sure it is. So if you want something from that period get this and m7. I really think the reason why rive gauche men got discontinued was how bad it was while this and m7 are practically tom ford.

@JackieM My God! You couldn’t have said it better! You described a whole generation and a specific type of perfume like no one else here. I remember those days of confident career people without hesitation, cashmere suits, long coats, leather bags, silk scarves and heady perfumes. There was something opulent in everything back then, from the shoes to the Filofax. I’m so reminiscent of those winters and this is the background smell they had. Heavy, bitter, spicy, balsamic, mysterious, with faint, almost invisible floral notes, a-gender and all inclusive, Nu was made for confident, sexy women who prefer cold winter night parties, dressed in leather, velvet, silk and cashmere, preferably in black or noir blue. People who used to make time for their personal moments as entries in their leather Filofax.

Bubbles1964 there is a good chance the sample you purchased was exposed to direct light and/or stale. If that is in fact the case, I'm sorry that happened. Buying vintage fragrances is such a gamble. Many fragrances get lost on my skin within a few hours. More than half of those I've tried, sadly. I can honestly say this is not one of them. Today, I am wearing the original formulation. The bottle was produced/purchased in 2006. Applied it at 4am and six hours later it is still present. By this evening it will still be detectable. Taking care as to how you store fragrances makes all the difference. Regrettably, not everyone sees it the same. Don't give up on this one. I truly think if you had a good sample the outcome would be totally different.

This is, no doubt, my favorite scent. I usually say that NU is the new Feminité du Bois, not by the similarity, but by discontinuity and by difficulty of finding. He has just becoming a new legend, that arouses interest and curiosity of those who have never felt it. I had the privilege to know it in 2002, just one year after its launch. It's funny, I tested it at the same time of M7. NU I loved it instantly, M7 I hated it instantly. Feeling paradoxical but instinctive. I still have saved some bottles, it is very difficult to find. I have both the EDP (raw and androgynous) and EDT (is softer and floral). It's my scent, because I chose it for me, regardless of other people use it or don't like it. 5*/5*!!! <3!