Fleur de Patchouli

I shall start this long review by saying that this perfume is not so simple like one may think reading the three declared notes or judging by its price. True, it is minimalistic, yet it is a marvelous modern patchouli fragrance that presents more then one interesting contrast. It is chic and classy like a black silky chemise, and has the same versatility too. Infact it can be interpreted as refined and classic, mysterious and bit gloomy, but also sporty, light and strangely clean. A chameleon that goes with various moods. Its flowery and musky parts speak of an alluring feminity, the mossy, a tad smoky and woody dry down reads as deliciously masculine, while the patchuli and fresh accords is what ties it all togheter in a perfect unisex blend. Anyone can pull this off. The opening starts with flowers accompanied by wood and by a fresh/citrus component, at least some bergamot for sure; this citrus note (or notes as I suspect) make the perfume very shiny and kinda airy/expansive. Contrary to the usual Zara x Jo Malone it's not a strong citrus, nor just a blast in the opening, but instead it delicately reverberates through out the whole composition, togheter with something green. It is as if Jo Malone applied the Impressionism's art style to a patchouli based perfume through brushstrokes of light from the citrus and of pastel and muted colors from the flowers. The flowery component is strong...I would say rose more so then peony, but you can feel them both; they smell delicate and pink, like joung petals and like morning blooming flowers, with the rose comes the green facet I mentioned before, as if you can smell parts of the rose's stem (in combo with the underlying citrus it's kinda like geraniol to my nose). A contrast is present in the floral too because this petals smell also dry, spicy and a bit dirty, kinda like a pout pourru effect, but at the same time there is that gentle soapy effect (modern, truly nothing old style), accentuated even more by the musk in the base. The patchouli dominates the fragrance but, as the name suggest, is based in flowers, and the result it's probably better described as a polished patchouli. It's not too earthy, nor too herbaceous and natural (or classic 70's if we will), nor sweet or dry. I feel it as a tad smoky and balsamic for an overall superbly chic effect!!! The contrast between a clear yet dark fragrance is perfectly played in this sense. It's a refined and modern patchouli but surely nothing innovative since it is very similar in style to Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, as many other reviewers before me noted; it's not a "dupe" but it has that kind of dna and style: classy, uplifting, expensive and en vogue. The woody dimension is strong too, it hit my nose even before the flowery notes started to truly open. I percive the guaiac wood in it as sweet, dry, and a little smoked. Besides, a dry tabacco vibe and the sensation of moss is surely present since the middle fase of the scent (even more so on paper and clothes), probably the result of the interaction between guaiac and patchouli. Maybe even a smidge of vetiver it's present, since there is a touch of that familiar earthiness. In closure, a clean and sexy musk seals the all deal. Perhaps it's the similarity to Coco Mademoiselle but, in my imagination, this would fit like a glove on an androgynous woman or man, someone like Coco Chanel...always playing with feminine and masculine elements in her style, modernizing the rigor of religious attire, stealing symbols and flashes of gold from Byzantine art...short haired, her smoking mouthpiece always between her long fingers! Lasting power is surprisingly good for Zara, at least 4 to 5 hours, with the dry down lasting even more. Projection is not bad at all, it leaves a seducing trail behind. Also, this beauty behaves as a precious layering tool, specially with more spicy compositions, as do the others from the line. For instance, it pairs very well with Zara's own Ebony Wood (spicy and so warm!), those two thogheter or alone are the ones I use the most for layering when I want to give body through spices and woods to other fragrances (specially florals and solinotes). Fleur de Patchouli was my first encounter with Jo Malone's collaborations with Zara and it impressed me so much that it enticed me to try all the elements in the Emotion line, and all the others Zara x Jo Malone offerings; for their price you really can not ask for more...I feel her magic touch is surely there. I enjoy them so much that I thought it was only fair to review them all, one by one and in great length. If you care to know my opinion on the Zara x Jo Malone Emotion Collection as a whole, I spoke about it in great detail in my other reviews, but to synthesise a bit: -they have a great price for their quality which is very apothecary like, surely they smell more expensive then what you actually pay; -they are always in stock, often in promo, and offered in 10, 40 and 90 ml, with candles and cosmetics of the same scents; -they are good layering tools, many houses arose on the market with just the layering claim, Zara offers to us 9 of them at a fraction of the price and with honest quality; - you get the Jo Malone style, minimalistic yet impactful, and very photorealistic. Surely a premium experience for an highstreet brand; -good packaging and presentations.

Is this a fruitchouli Coco Monsieur? Fleur de Patchouli is a chypre-floriental daring fragrance, with leathery nuances that tell its strong temperament. The atmosphere of a contemporary music party comes to life and finds its balance in the classic notes of fruity patchouli, pink patchouli, or pink chypre as some call this kind of modern accords. The notes –peony, patchouli, leather, and guaiac–say absolutely nothing about the scent. It’s not possible to imagine what it smells like from that roster until you rock it. So many of these notes are rendered completely abstract that what jumps out is greenish, pink patchouli over which have been melted flavoring and the type of fruit syrups used to flavor water. Ain't no cloying, yet smoky and woody to bear the lavish mildness. Fleur de Patchouli is a modern composition with a strong yet surprisingly fresh character. It opens with a delightful fragrant sweet and rosy aroma of peonies in voluptuous bloom, like "morning rose petals", with just a tad of citrus, definitely a floral accord with something dirty going on. The heart is a sweet amber with that modern green cotton candy-patchouli which defines so many of the perfumes from this era. Hours after, this deep, dark, amber-patchouli fades to a sugarcoated white musk. It comes across as both sweet and clean. Due to its many diverse associations, the hippy era, patchouli is and always will be a “love or hate it scent.” Notwithstanding, if you are anything like me, you will love it. And then comes the dry-down full of guaiac wood, a little bit birch tar-y, leathery, even tarmac-y. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Hints of tobacco, too, or the whiff of burning leaves in winter. There’s nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, that’s for sure. I've seen many people mistaking guaiac wood with palo santo wood, yet they are two kinds of wood apart. I would describe guaiac aroma as being masculine but also very mellow, creamy, lactonic with far less of the minty and balsamic qualities found within the regular palo santo. Guaiac essence is from the heartwood, which produces an essential oil with a sweet, woody, milky fragrance reminiscent of sandalwood, whereas palo santo essence is from the old bark, which falls down and acquires intense aroma while getting older. I see this perfume perfectly fit the cold days of late autumn and early spring, all too not offensive and light enough to be worn in the office, spot-on for evening and dinner out. Yet, not too strong for a night out or clubbing. Projection is moderate and longevity is above average. This is one of those perfumes that lingers and holds onto fabric forever. In my opinion, this release is the lighter and sweeter version of Coco Mademoiselle fragrance, with a more masculine facet. Congrats Jo Loves (aka Jo Malone), cause out of your 8 emotions this is a pleasant one.

This is fantastic-- I don't even like patchouli. I bought the tester kit from Zara, not expecting to like this one, but it was the first full bottle I bought from the collection. I can't get enough of it. I have around 300 bottles of perfume in my collection (it's a problem, I know), but this unpretentious one from Zara is possibly in my top 10...definitely top 20. It also has good longevity-- it does get fainter after a few hours, but it lasts all day, and the sillage is pretty good, too. Other people have noticed. I have been complimented three times by strangers (well, one was my dental hygienist) while wearing this one, and I've probably only worn it a handful of times. I know it's supposed to be a dupe for Coco Mademoiselle. I don't think they're that close, and I've never liked CM enough to justify the cost...but my husband liked it last time I wore it. I recently re-tested CM, and both my husband and myself prefer Zara FdP. It's a bit sweeter and more floral. CM is a bit soapy and too "perfumey." FdP is fresher and slightly sweeter (I think that's the peony). I think this is more similar to the original Jimmy Choo than CM, but I prefer this one over both fragrances. This is a year-round scent. The patchouli grounds it for fall/winter, but the fresh peony means it works in spring/summer. I like it so well I'm considering buying a backup bottle in case they discontinue. I will say the Jo Malone collaborations have produced better scents than I usually find with Zara. The Emotions collection is especially lovely. Absolutely worth the $40!! Edit-- I just realized I reviewed when I first tried it. I forgot, and this review is weeks later after having a full bottle with more wear time. I'm clearly in love.

Just WOW. I tested the whole Zara Emotions line (purchased the discovery set), and this is the one I keep going back to smell, although all of them are lovely (except Ebony Woods for me because super woody isn't my thing). This is definitely reminiscent of Coco Mademoiselle. I feel like that's a pleasant scent, but I've never liked it well enough to pay the crazy price. I wish I liked it more because my husband loves it when I've worn decants of it. But this is BETTER!!! It has great lasting power, and there's something else there-- might be slightly sweeter/fresher than CM. Whatever it is, I find this lovely, while CM can get a bit annoying to me in time. This one I can't stop sniffing. I'm buying two bottles. Also-- I hate patchouli. I despise most fragrances with that note...but somehow here it works for me. It is there, but whatever it's combined with takes away all the harshness, and it just adds depth and interest. So if you're a patchouli hater like me, I would still test it out. I thought this would be the only one I didn't like in the discovery set, but it turned out to be my favorite.

Lately, I've been reaching Fleur de Patchouli more than usual as the scent has developed into something amazing over time. I also feel like the never bottles are different than the initial release. I thing really the new magnetic cap bottle releases are wonderful. Almost a year after purchase , righ now Fleur de Patchouli smells more damp, green , fresh than first time. Patchouli is so fresh and different, it almost smells like fresh tobacco leaves or the tobacco flower, green , earthy, damp but still very fresh. Maybe that's the effect of guaiac wood. Peony definitely keeps it balanced. It's pretty linear and doesn't evolve at all but It's still such a versatile scent at this point , it can be easily worn winter, spring, summer , fall day and night. I don't do layering much generally and I know it may sound contradicting, but I layer it legendary Pur Blanca for lounging and it smells incredible cosy , relaxed and unique.