Complicated Shadows

If there were a typical Sarah McCartney style, the impression I'm getting from the samples I have tried is that it would be a fruity, gourmand perfume with a touch of sweetness - except her range has some wonderful stand-out perfumes that are not at all in this vein. This would be one of them. Although there are floral notes in Complicated Shadows, this doesn't strike me as a floral perfume. I don't get the yellow floral accord or the violet, even though violet is usually a note you can't ignore, so either there is just the merest drop in Complicated Shadows or the mossy, woody notes are present in even greater strength. I don't really get much of the green accord either. To me Complicated Shadows leans more towards a chypre. It's quite a dirty scent, in a very good way. Complicated is a good word for this perfume - it is complex and quite lovely. The longevity is pretty good and I can still smell this on my wrist at the end of the day. I haven't asked anyone to give me their view of the sillage. I've nearly used my sample up but can't say I really know this perfume yet. I just may have to buy a bottle ... ... Damn, this is an expensive hobby! but on the other hand, so much pleasure! I'm hoping some other people have reactions to share as I'd be so interested to find out if it strikes you the same way as it strikes me. One year later: I did buy a bottle! How did I miss the violet? It's definitely there early on, although it becomes more self-effacing after a few minutes. Complicated Shadows reminds me of Frederic Malle's Lipstick Rose without the rose, if you can imagine that, or maybe it's a little like Chanel's Misia. Although this was launched in 2021, I could imagine this being worn in any decade from the 1920s onwards. Beautiful!

Listed notes are: Sandalwood, Shade, Narcissus, Iris and Irony. I'm guessing shade is used in the context of "throwing shade" but I'm choosing to interpret it as "in the shade" since this cool and mellow versus sunny. This buzzes with the oakmoss, deepens in texture with the iris and olibanum and lifts with a sharp but smooth narcissus. There is definitely some vanilla in the base even though it isn't listed, but this has no sweetness. The Sniff's review nails it describing a "metallic tang over warm woodiness that a spent teabag can have. Perhaps it is a touch of electricity remaining from the rumbling storm as it passes over..." The fragrance only changes slightly during wear, and the drydown maintains its kick. I blind bought this because I'm loving narcissus lately. Usually this brand is too sweet for me and it's great to finally have one I can vibe with. It has a great texture, feels very robust, pleasantly bitter and mildly smoky.

This is growing on me so much. When I first sprayed it the kind of dusty woods and moss did not seem like my kind of fragrance and I immediately thought it's not for me. But within five minutes it warms up to maybe my favorite sandalwood I've ever tried?? It is dry and smooth and there is a very faint sweetness that feels like it comes from the wood itself. This is very well blended and it's hard to pick out other notes but it does feel like they're there rounding out the sandalwood and making it give off that warmth. I keep coming back to this and I want a full bottle but they must use a lot of expensive natural ingredients for this one because it's almost double the price of their other bottles :( Update: I'm getting more of the soft iris in the deep dry down. I guess I'm going to have to start saving for a bottle...

This is the only fragrance I’ve found that truly satisfies my craving for a hot sauna scent. From the first spray, the opening feels rich and layered. It’s a dance of woodiness, cool iris and the damp, earthy depth of oak moss. It’s complex without being overwhelming, very alive. But it’s the dry down that I adore. Hours later, especially the next day, it transforms into something beautifully subtle. It’s a dry, woody skin scent that clings close. It’s the lingering warmth of cedar planks and subsiding heat. A natural serenity that is unmistakably the scent of a hot sauna. This is an everyday scent to me. In the heat, it’s appropriately refreshing and natural. In the cold, it evokes a well-craved warmth.

Walking through the woods in a smoker's jacket. You're sucking on a Choward's violet candy and listening to Elvis Costello. I'm so in love. The most tastefully sweet and floral fragrance I've ever smelled. So richly woodsy and smoky with spicy daffodil mid-sniff, but leaves a bouquet of sweet violets and delicately powdery irises lingering in your nose. There's a hint of vanilla in the far, far background. This is the second 4160 Tuesdays scent I've ever tried, and the second one I've absolutely loved. Hammersmith Tea and Biscuits is wonderful, but Complicated Shadows is just so special. I actually feel spiritually connected to this. I can't wait until I can buy a full bottle.