Acqua di Parma Profumo

I've had this for a while now, & every time I wear it I like it more than on the previous occasion, and it seems to reveal a bit more of itself that I hadn't noticed before. I wouldn't really care to venture exactly what the correct notes are; but I am very curious, because I find this fragrance so very inscrutable ! Is it woody, floral, gourmand ... what? It just sits there so poised between those categories. I'll make a bid for a bit of lemon, a bit of orris, some woody component, and a generous helping of that trademark Acqua di Parma shimmery musk; but beyond that I bid not. And I hedge about even what I have just bid. It's so very inscrutable. Now I'll go and read the other reviews properly, and see what folks say the correct notes-list is. Didn't do too well! Bergamot and peony I can clock now that I know they are there. I wouldn't have thought there was labdanum and vetiver and patchouli in it. And I still maintain there's some orris in it - to me that certain soft luminosity bespeaks it. I'm reluctant to say the colour of a fragrance when it's actual colour is so conspicuous ... but I really do think this is a yellow fragrance. I get the resemblance to Mitsouko now that I'm giving that fragrance an outing, but I would say it's a lot sharper than this one. Not surprising really, given that oakmoss is the chief-voted ingredient in it.

I think Fragrantica editors need to look at their notes on this fragrance more closely; they list it as a woody chypre (that fits) but the notes listed are pure florals, no mention of top notes and no basenotes. Confusing. "Playful composition"? Are we talking about the same fragrance? This is one serious perfume. This opens as a powerful, somewhat masculine fragrance on me. Some sharp notes from bergamot or similar, then I start to pick up the florals. They're lovely and rich but not really sweet. Overall, this fragrance goes into overdrive in the woody-mossy-patchouli department rather quickly, and I reveled in the richness for many hours. Very long lasting. Very strong, use sparingly. Definately a unisex fragrance in my opinion. My later research into this perfume house indicates that this frag was geared toward men when it was first released, around 1912; later, it was reformulated to appeal to women as well. Other fragrance sites list this as a unisex fragrance.

My nose cannot compete with the previous reviewer, in fact with most of the reviewers. I can only say how sophisticated and special this scent is. Acqua Di Parma's other fragrances while nice(especially the unisex one, created in 1916 for both men and women which is refreshing)they are basic and at times loud due to heavy dominant top notes that give way to nothing. It is a mystery to me as to why it is rarely carried at the finest of stores. Neiman Marcus used to carry it, but no longer, nor Saks and Barneys is hell-bent on have so-called unique fragrances ie: resolutely Modernist packaging being of the highest order to their buyer(s). Boy did I digress? If you have not sampled this scent I would urge you to do so. The body cream is divine as well as rich and moisturizing as opposed to Chanel No.5 cream, which is well scented but not moisturizing.

When reviewing this, it must be made clear whether you're talking about the vintage or reformulated version, because as someone else mentioned before, the list of motes for the vintage would not look like the notes listed above. The vintage has an old-school chypre structure, complete with citrus in the opening and oakmoss peeking it's head out througout the middle and the drydown! I'm wearing it now and it is nowhere near a powdery white floral. The vintage version is so cloes to mitsouko that if you like Mitsouko, you'll love vintage Acqua Di Parma Profumo. It's terribly hard to find in full bottles,and when you do, it's more expensive than the reformulated version, which I've seen for as much as $250 or more! but there are lots of 5 ml minis avalable on ebay. Look for the Burgundy-colored box that's usually pictured beside it.

A perfectly orchestrated classic chypre, holy grail material for the chypre lover. It's the best version of Mitsouko I have smelled and it's not even Mitsouko. And I love Mitsouko. I have it hoarded. But when I smell this I think "yes, this is it". It is impeccably balanced, and it's much easier to wear so if you "almost" love Mitsouko but can't get along with the dusty and peculiar aspect that makes it challenging for some, give this a try. It's like being transported in a time machine. It smells authentically vintage but like a fresh batch. It's as good as just about any chypre on the market.