Les Exclusifs de Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Review of the original Les Exclusifs EdT release 31 Rue Cambon was a bit of mystery to me in Chanel’s lineup. I remembering thinking I was not sure why they felt they needed to set their classic jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang concoction on top of a woody base but there they went, giving us this perfume as one of the original Les Exclusifs EdT releases (which are better than the latter-born EdP equivalents, in my opinion - but that is for another day, another post). Then I wore it on skin and conceded a misreading (or misinterpretation) of the brief, because it instantaneously clicked what Chanel and Polge were trying to do. You are greeted with Chanel’s signature effervescent and prismatic aldehydes and bergamot, but they feel like a bit of an aside, like an emcee making sure you know you are at a Chanel event but whose purpose is to point to and introduce the character beside them: a looming, dark, sinewy and tight figure of black pepper. It works well, but the contrast is stark. Behind this cloaked figure rises Chanel’s famous jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang staple, adding color and levity to the mix, but the dark specter is still front and center. The florals, like the aldehydes and bergamot, also quickly dispense to bring onto the stage black pepper’s powerful foils of orris and labdanum. That’s when 31 Rue Cambon really gets into its rhythm. The starchy, grainy, powdery, floral aspects of orris combined with warm, sweet, leathery, woody, and animalic labdanum keeps the back pepper in check - more Eyes Wide Shut than full-on Psycho. Together they very convincingly turn 31 Rue Cambon into the promised chypre direction. And maybe perhaps turn it a bit too far, since an earthy, somewhat green, noticeably sweet and spicy patchouli breaks forward to carry the spicy darkness of the black pepper into the dry down, but the sweet earthiness of the patchouli doubles down on the labdanum and very nearly turns the whole of the perfume to a spicy amber direction... nearly. It is in small passing sniffs you grab the petrichor oakmoss aroma, some of the patchouli greenness, and the orris trying its hardest to stay alive, and it is these very small checks-and-balances that keep the perfume from turning more convincingly amber, in my opinion. Eventually the labdanum’s sweetness and animalics falls away, emphasizing wood and leather; the pepper and green notes of the patchouli fall away, turning loamier; a creamy and smooth sandalwood accord makes a small appearance, keeping the whole nicely taut; and you’re left with what is, indeed, a chypre. One instance when I wore 31 I reapplied it late in the afternoon, I could still smell it as a skin scent the next morning (quite impressive for an EdT), and it was with the heat and humidity of my morning shower that the oak moss really made a bold appearance (although quite brief). This stuff is as tenacious as the hardwood it means to represent. How ever you want to slice 31 Rue Cambon, it’s damn good. Never is it without the Chanel chic that we know and love - and while we are on the quintessential Chanel chic, the “powderiness” people always point out in Chanel’s perfumes is present, for sure, but in this format it is more of a texture than an aroma. There is a density, and linen-like luxury to 31, and just enough opacity to let some light through. But only just. It feels like a haunted garden in the dark. At one point light breaks through, bergamot and aldehydes, and you can see the light streaming through the trees and illuminating beautiful flowers, and then the light goes out. Something looms in the darkness around you, the trees and the earth beneath your feet come alive only in the pitch blackness of night, and their paranormal powers release aromas into the air like playfully nefarious specters. This perfume is dark, spicy, and very sultry - I would say sinister, even. Eyes Wide Shut. It is very out of character for a Chanel perfume, but marvelously done as a Chanel should be. What was going on Coco’s studio on Cambon, I wonder? Do I even want to know?

To my nose, this smells like a mix between Bel Respiro and Coromandel, with a pinch of 28 La Pausa's pasty iris thrown in for good measure. It also does smell somewhat similar to 1932, although this one's heavier and has more patchouli. The similarity to 28 La Pausa is most noticeable the first few minutes as the iris is really prominent then. As soon as it begins to dry down the iris seems to leave the picture which makes me a little sad since I'm simply in love with that note! We already have 28 LP and N18 though, so I guess I should stop complaining.. ;) The bergamot, green notes and a soft patchouli/labdanum quikly rules out the iris. The rose and pepper remain subtle throughout it's development. The creamy and exotic ylang ylang gently increases in strength, blending beautifully with the green notes. Actually, it smells a bit like a more fresh, peppery and green version of Myrrhe&Delires by Guerlain at this point, which is a compliment, since I really like that one. I'm not saying 31 Rue Cambon isn't unique though, because it is, it's just something about these different components that keep reminding me of those scents! This is a lovely, chic and classy perfume that no doubt, could be very beautiful on the right person. However, since I already have and love the ones mentioned earlier, this isn't a priority for me at the moment. This is actually one of the best Les Exclusifs when it comes to lasting power and projection though, which of course is a huge plus! Some of the ones that I love dearly, such as Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Bel Respiro and 28 La Pausa seem strong at first blast, but then- nothing. It really frustrates and saddens me, because I would really like to smell them for much longer! It might just be my nose playing tricks on me, but I wear my scents first and foremost for myself, therefore it's really annoying still. This doesen't seem to be a problem with 31 Rue Cambon though, which is a great thing if you like it! The most "concentrated" Les Exclusifs as far as I can tell besides this one, is N22, Coromandel, Sycomore, Jersey, Beige, Misia and 1932. N18, 28 La Pausa, Eau de Cologne, Bel Respiro, BdI, CdR and Gardenia on the other hand, are all pretty soft I must say, which irks me big time! I can understand that N18, 28LP, EdC and BR is probably supposed to be this way, but why BdI and CdR?! Does not make any sense.

I seem to be the only one that smells a strong lineage between Chanel 5 edt and 31 rue Cambon (see my previous review from a year ago below. And yes, I convinced myself and I am now a proud owner of a 31 rue Cambon 75ml bottle). If Chanel 5 is the Grand Dame, Eau Premiere is the exuberant, sparkly, but well brought up grand-daughter (I have this image of Rose in Downton Abby) and 31 rue Cambon is the well-bred, perfectly mannered, but approachable and warm daughter (to keep with the Downton Abby analogy, this would be Cora). I really like all three, but somehow 31 rue Cambon is my current favourite. The absence of aldehydes and of civet may give it less complexity, but I still feel wrapped in a warm cloud of classy indulgence. A perfect fall fragrance. ----------------- Previous review I tried this one today in Heathtrow. Starts with an off putting musty smell but then, after about 10 minutes, it changes completely on my skin and becomes this warm, sort of ambery (even though amber is not listed) and very enveloping smell. However, I am not sure I would purchase it as, on my skin, it bears a striking similarity with Chanel no5, Eau de toilette. As an aside, I find the no5 EdT and EdP to be completely different. I love the former and loathe the latter. I gather that 31 rue Cambon was developed way after Chanel no5 and, while retaining an old fashion structure and projection, it is somewhat more... Blended and polished? The longevity is amazing BTW. After more than 10 hours (most of them spent in a plane) I can still smell the dry down. It is now become a soft and slightly sweet wood, amber and patchouli presence. Very comforting and elegant. Very classic Chanel. So now, I am convincing myself that really, maybe, it is worth a purchase after all. LOL ... Apologies to all for my rather rambly review. Blame it on sleep deprivation.

31 Rue Cambon is an accidental love of mine. My mother used to have this and I inherited her bottle when she died. As my mother also had a very large collection of perfumes (and most of the Exclusifs line at some point or another) it didn't get much use. The result was a bottle that I never liked when I smelled the lid. I didn't care for it on my mother either, that is to say I was indifferent. However, nobody else in the family liked it either and so I kept it. I started to spray two sprays on my pillow at night and with regular use the bottle and the perfume both took on a life of their own which hadn't been there before with only occasional use. After a while, the perfume revealed a wonderful floral heart of rose and iris which would fill the room with only those two sprays, and what a wonderful smell it was! 31 Rue Cambon is a very indifferent perfume if you wear it occasionally. But use that bottle regularly and it blooms. There is something warm and soothing about having it on your pillow at night. I don't think I can justify buying something from the Exclusifs line just to spray on my pillow at night, and so when those last few drops get used up I'm going to have to let it go. But if 31 Rue Cambon manages to last another ten years and my perfume collection can be whittled down to taking up 'just' one shelf, I may return for a bottle. Well well Mum, looks like you were right after all!

I have found myself returning to this over and over in the last few months, and wondered why some particular situations made me reach for it unthinkingly. At last I know. 31 Rue Cambon is a scent of perfect poise. If I were an architect presenting a $250 million design to a client, I would wear this. If I were meeting a prospective mother-in-law for the first time, I would wear this. Meeting Presidents or Prime Ministers, I would wear this. If a certain situation or event demands impeccable credentials, or the idea of a certain situation or event makes me a little anxious, I wear only this, always. Virtually every other perfume I know has its inappropriate elements for some occasions (too sexy, too green, too frou-frou, too toothless, too weird, too heavy, too spicy, too strong, whatever). Not this one. Occasions have to rise to 31 Rue Cambon, not the other way around. I feel serene when I wear it, completely at ease in any milieu. Of course, it is an extremely beautiful scent, but never showy. It is perfectly self-possessed, and endows me with what self-possession I may lack, like a Chanel-clad fairy godmother. For these reasons, in my mind, it approaches a kind of perfection. I have always been much more of a lifelong oriental fan than a chypre fan. But no matter; I bow down to 31 Rue Cambon.