.U.M.B.R.E.

For true baristas, coffee fanatics whose mood is not influenced by how bright the sun shines in the morning, but by the first sip of a luscious coffee as it flows bittersweetly down their throats. The aroma of coffee is clearly defined by its smell. Opening with a full-bodied, bitter chocolatey coffee aroma, the latest Jimmy Bodin (Jousset Parfums) artisan/niche composition is an unfathomably mystical creation. The warmth of early morning sunshine glistening on terracotta permeates and elevates this smooth, envelopingly enveloping, odoriferous coffee perfume speciality beyond the Qahua Bungas. A complex, multidimensional, aromatic caftan, it is a niche masterpiece: a light, fresh and almost floral blend of bitter roasted coffee, resins, tobacco, spices, flowers and creamy, flowing myrrh, which caresses the wearer as if it were a desert breeze. In the first few seconds of the head scent, a dry green plant dust rises in a cloud of freshly roasted coffee, highlighting the most exciting aspect of black coffee. It is bitter and slightly smoky, but it does not become gourmand thanks to the aromatic green herbs, but rather emphasises the organic, vegetal side of the bean. This beautiful composition, wrapped in tobacco leaves, is almost immediately imbued with a resinous warmth that seeps out through the vents of an ancient magic box like a balsamic melange. Its "primevalness" shows its floral side, slightly eclipsing the aromas of steaming black coffee like a magical acrobat, giving a sweet, fruity exotic radiance to the descent in which the flirtatious oil of davana plays with the chemistry of our bodies, creating a different pulsating fragrance almost every time. The oil of davana is extracted by steam distillation from the flowers, leaves and stems of a plant native to India. Although it is highly adaptive, it's fair to call it flirty, because as soon as it comes into contact with your skin, everything changes. Reacting with our body's own chemistry, it changes its aroma to create a unique scent known for its soothing, calming, uplifting and even balancing effects. Like a special spicy honey, its creaminess reveals understatedly soft animal tones, with the murmur of soft nagarmotha in the background. Sensuously delicious and soul-warming, it is a pulsatingly delicious composition, a fantastic creation of a genius, which perfectly describes the small but important ritual of life, the pleasure of drinking coffee.

Moving shadows on a wall of mystery... Dark resins intersect with flashes of warm light... The name itself, "Umbre" in Romanian, means shadows, and it is a brilliant summary of the philosophy behind its composition: a fragrance that belongs to the darkness but knows how to shine with an unexpected moment of warmth. The perfume announces itself with a hint of Davana, a fruity herbaceous note tending toward bitterness, accompanied by a light animalic touch that gives a warm leathery sensation that does not shout but whispers. This opening may seem shocking to unaccustomed noses, but it quickly gives way to a captivating balance as coffee and tobacco take the lead in the story. At the heart, benzoin melts with its smooth balsamic sweetness to soften the sharp edges, while cypriol (an earthy-woody aromatic root) provides an elegant dryness reminiscent of aged leather. Here, coffee appears in its finest form: neither sugary nor creamy, but dark roasted coffee with a noble bitterness that elevates the fragrance and steers it away from any vulgarity. As it descends toward the base, dried tobacco with a honeyed character settles with the ancient bitter resin, together creating an aura of warm depth; a blend that evokes long nights in an old wooden library, where smoke, warmth, and incense embrace. The result: an aromatic painting of clarity and darkness {in Italian: Chiaroscuro}, where shadow clashes with light, bitterness with sweetness, and leather with resin. The performance suits the Extrait de Parfum concentration (32%): long-lasting persistence extending beyond eight hours on the skin and even longer on clothing, with moderate projection that becomes a close, warm aura after the first hours. It is an exquisite evening perfume, suitable for autumn and winter, special meetings, or luxurious soirées. It is not a safe choice for everyone, but it is a bold artistic signature for lovers of tobacco, coffee, and resins. Its bottle is a limited edition, and its launch price was around 250 euros / 50 ml, often selling out quickly, which increases its value as a collectable piece rather than just a spray perfume. In the end, U.M.B.R.E. is not just a scent, but a complete experience: shadows dancing on your skin, telling a story of warmth and depth, leaving an unforgettable mark on those who dare to embrace its darkness.

I have one word to say about this...wow... This was the exactly the last bottle of the 20 they had in stock, maybe even the last in stock of this in general of the 80 made in the world. Truly the most masterfully blended, beautiful scent, it captures the best parts and memories of my life in a bottle. Nostalgic, real and truly magnificent. Adi Ale Van is hands down the best parfumer of our generation, an artist in every sense of the word. Everything from the handmade presentation down to the scent itself is perfect. 12/10

What can be said about U.M.B.R.E fragrance? First of all, it's one of the most interesting coffee based scents that I have ever come across and needless to say, for me it was love at first sniff. It exhudes a rich dark seductive coffee scent with the right amount of sweetness, all bottled up in a fantastic handmade presentation. Pure craftmanship coming from my home country, Romania. An absolute must try if you are a gourmand type of person.

This is a perfectly blended and very smooth combination of coffee and resins. I also get some vanillic and caramel-like notes giving the smell of coffee-flavored fudge. One of the best coffee fragrances I have smelled. The only downside is the high price