.U.M.B.R.E.

For true baristas, coffee fanatics whose mood is not influenced by how bright the sun shines in the morning, but by the first sip of a luscious coffee as it flows bittersweetly down their throats. The aroma of coffee is clearly defined by its smell. Opening with a full-bodied, bitter chocolatey coffee aroma, the latest Jimmy Bodin (Jousset Parfums) artisan/niche composition is an unfathomably mystical creation. The warmth of early morning sunshine glistening on terracotta permeates and elevates this smooth, envelopingly enveloping, odoriferous coffee perfume speciality beyond the Qahua Bungas. A complex, multidimensional, aromatic caftan, it is a niche masterpiece: a light, fresh and almost floral blend of bitter roasted coffee, resins, tobacco, spices, flowers and creamy, flowing myrrh, which caresses the wearer as if it were a desert breeze. In the first few seconds of the head scent, a dry green plant dust rises in a cloud of freshly roasted coffee, highlighting the most exciting aspect of black coffee. It is bitter and slightly smoky, but it does not become gourmand thanks to the aromatic green herbs, but rather emphasises the organic, vegetal side of the bean. This beautiful composition, wrapped in tobacco leaves, is almost immediately imbued with a resinous warmth that seeps out through the vents of an ancient magic box like a balsamic melange. Its "primevalness" shows its floral side, slightly eclipsing the aromas of steaming black coffee like a magical acrobat, giving a sweet, fruity exotic radiance to the descent in which the flirtatious oil of davana plays with the chemistry of our bodies, creating a different pulsating fragrance almost every time. The oil of davana is extracted by steam distillation from the flowers, leaves and stems of a plant native to India. Although it is highly adaptive, it's fair to call it flirty, because as soon as it comes into contact with your skin, everything changes. Reacting with our body's own chemistry, it changes its aroma to create a unique scent known for its soothing, calming, uplifting and even balancing effects. Like a special spicy honey, its creaminess reveals understatedly soft animal tones, with the murmur of soft nagarmotha in the background. Sensuously delicious and soul-warming, it is a pulsatingly delicious composition, a fantastic creation of a genius, which perfectly describes the small but important ritual of life, the pleasure of drinking coffee.

Moving shadows on a wall of mystery... Dark resins intersect with flashes of warm light... The name itself, "Umbre" in Romanian, means shadows, and it is a brilliant summary of the philosophy behind its composition: a fragrance that belongs to the darkness but knows how to shine with an unexpected moment of warmth. The perfume announces itself with a hint of Davana, a fruity herbaceous note tending toward bitterness, accompanied by a light animalic touch that gives a warm leathery sensation that does not shout but whispers. This opening may seem shocking to unaccustomed noses, but it quickly gives way to a captivating balance as coffee and tobacco take the lead in the story. At the heart, benzoin melts with its smooth balsamic sweetness to soften the sharp edges, while cypriol (an earthy-woody aromatic root) provides an elegant dryness reminiscent of aged leather. Here, coffee appears in its finest form: neither sugary nor creamy, but dark roasted coffee with a noble bitterness that elevates the fragrance and steers it away from any vulgarity. As it descends toward the base, dried tobacco with a honeyed character settles with the ancient bitter resin, together creating an aura of warm depth; a blend that evokes long nights in an old wooden library, where smoke, warmth, and incense embrace. The result: an aromatic painting of clarity and darkness {in Italian: Chiaroscuro}, where shadow clashes with light, bitterness with sweetness, and leather with resin. The performance suits the Extrait de Parfum concentration (32%): long-lasting persistence extending beyond eight hours on the skin and even longer on clothing, with moderate projection that becomes a close, warm aura after the first hours. It is an exquisite evening perfume, suitable for autumn and winter, special meetings, or luxurious soirées. It is not a safe choice for everyone, but it is a bold artistic signature for lovers of tobacco, coffee, and resins. Its bottle is a limited edition, and its launch price was around 250 euros / 50 ml, often selling out quickly, which increases its value as a collectable piece rather than just a spray perfume. In the end, U.M.B.R.E. is not just a scent, but a complete experience: shadows dancing on your skin, telling a story of warmth and depth, leaving an unforgettable mark on those who dare to embrace its darkness.

I have one word to say about this...wow... This was the exactly the last bottle of the 20 they had in stock, maybe even the last in stock of this in general of the 80 made in the world. Truly the most masterfully blended, beautiful scent, it captures the best parts and memories of my life in a bottle. Nostalgic, real and truly magnificent. Adi Ale Van is hands down the best parfumer of our generation, an artist in every sense of the word. Everything from the handmade presentation down to the scent itself is perfect. 12/10

What can be said about U.M.B.R.E fragrance? First of all, it's one of the most interesting coffee based scents that I have ever come across and needless to say, for me it was love at first sniff. It exhudes a rich dark seductive coffee scent with the right amount of sweetness, all bottled up in a fantastic handmade presentation. Pure craftmanship coming from my home country, Romania. An absolute must try if you are a gourmand type of person.

This is a perfectly blended and very smooth combination of coffee and resins. I also get some vanillic and caramel-like notes giving the smell of coffee-flavored fudge. One of the best coffee fragrances I have smelled. The only downside is the high price

I am getting more chocolate from this than coffee, like kind of a mocha drink with less sugar. Will test more and update review.

I have tried a few Adi Ale Van fragrances, and I love the concept, the quality, the artistry and craftmanship behind the brand. I grew up not far from Romania myself, and my childhood memories get triggered by smelling many of his creations. This one however reminds me of something Scandinavian, namely a godispåse, which is a paper bag full of sweets you pick and mix yourself from plastic containers placed in every supermarket and convenient store in Sweden or Norway (and I assume in the other Scandinavian countries too). Imagine the smell of chocolate, Haribo konfekt (the colorful liquorice sandwiches), jellies and chocolate covered coffee beans mixed in a dry dusty paper bag. I cannot think of anything else but a godispåse till the drydown, when incense and dried tobacco leaves take over the gourmand notes. I can definitely feel the metallic note mentioned below, I wouldn't say it's straight up metallic though. It reminds me more of cellophane, which doesn't have a smell but if it had, it would smell like this. Might as well be my weird association based on the store concept. Anyways, it's not bothering me at all. Super interesting scent, I wouldn't wear it myself, but I am not into gourmands.

آمبری_تنباکویی_وایب عودی_کمی اَنیمالیک_اسپایسی_کمی چرمی_حس شکر سوخته شروعی غلیظ و سنگین با ترکیبی آمبری،آروماتیک،انیمالیک که رگه های بوزی و اسپایسی با ترکیب رِزین ها و ادویه جات ایجاد شده و روایح انیمالیک بسیار کنترل شده ظاهر میشه و به مرور کم رنگ تر هم میشه کمی بعد هجوم یک آکورد تنباکویی با اجرایی نیمه آلبالویی و شیرین و از اون قوی تر رایحه قهوه با ته مایه ای رست شده و عجین شده با تنباکو رو استشمام می کنید که در جهت یک هدف آمبری حرکت می کنند هرچه از زمان اسپری می گذره رایحه قهوه از بین میره و تبدیل میشه به یک رایحه کاکائو مانند و دیگه خبری از قهوه نیست باتل دکوراتیو و مرتبط با رایحه ************************* scent:8/10 longevity:9.5/10 sillage:9/10 purchase value:1/10 ******* overall:6.9/10

I'm a sucker for a good coffee note, strong projection of it in the start, then all the other notes sort of eclipse each other, there’s a balsamic note that kind of reminds me of cannabis. Can’t wear this everywhere though, 7/10.

Hmm. I really wanted to love this, as the notes sounded like autumny decadence, and their bottles are just something else! However from first spray, to several hours in, all I get is a very, very sharp, dry incense kick. Straight to the back of my nose. I have no idea what everyone is on about re. Coffee and chocolate notes, but my friend has just reminded me she once tried it, and on her skin I now remember a rather pleasant, earthy rich coffee note, sweetness and resinous incense. Completely different on my skin, alas. 3hours in and the sharpness has mellowed out to slightly sweeter, however there's no projection at all. Too dusty, too linear.

Strong coffee scent in the beginning. Oddly had this old book smell to it in the beginning as well; like the way bibles smelled in the Catholic Church growing up. Smelled more like old books than Diamonitirion did imo (love it tho hehe). Around hour 2, there was this chocolate-y type of scent that was pretty heavy; felt like that animalic scent was fully swinging it and took charge for the duration of the scent. I didn’t really get a fullll tobacco scent from it, but a faint smokey-ness to it.

#1286 in my "Tour de Fragrance" This smells like the interior of the coffee shop I visit. Particularly those days when the owner is roasting beans. The smell of green, roasting and roasted coffee beans and burlap bags. I love it in the dead of winter when the shop is cold inside and the only warm spot, and the best smelling seat in the place, is a bench beside the roaster. I don't even mind the noise. But I can't imagine anyone feeling attracted to me because I smell like hot coffee beans and the burlap bags they arrive in. About ten minutes in I can detect the merest hint of tobacco and davana in this, but the cypriol and myrrh, the notes I'm most interested in, are completely drown out by the coffee. I'm at a loss to think of a time or place you'd wear this or who would find it attractive. Seems like the perfumer wanted to try something different, but for me it just doesn't communicate anything but, "I've been sitting in Starbucks all morning because they have free WiFi." Adi Ale Van's "Mioritic" was a hit with me. This one is a miss.

Maybe the worst fragrance I've ever had the displeasure of owning. I call it "the chocolate outhouse" It smells like you're eating a melty chocolate bar, in a stinking honeypot, at a hippy music festival. It has a rotting wood vibe Reminiscent of an old musty theme park ride, and the distinct smell of sugary feces. Maybe my batch was messed up or something... but truly everyone I've shown it to HATES it. It's my newest party trick. "Wanna smell something REALLY BAD?" I have one friend who says his body rejects it and other friends still who now think twice before smelling anything I shove in their face. May this fragrance never find my loved ones and curse their dreams with this cow pasture, Willy wonka nightmare.

I bought this blind (a mistake) based on Josef.K’s comment that it was a bit to close to Black Phantom to be interesting. I love Black Phantom so I had to give this a try, didn’t I? Overall, the presentation looks amazing, the box, bottle and cap will delight you if you love handmade artistic pieces. It’s all very ’artisanal’. The fragrance however, that’s something of a disappointment. On my skin this fragrance is all over the place. One moment it smells almost like tiramisu, a boozy coffee scent, then gives off caramel type aromas, and the next it smells like a wellington boot after having trudged through the woods. That’s bizarre, and only happens on my skin, not on paper. The difference between this and Black Phantom is like the demo a band use to grab the attention of the record company, and the finished multitrack studio recording that’s been turned into a hit single. I much prefer Black Phantom. I can see why people also compare it to Kerosene’s Follow, it has more in common. I can understand muzzbait’s comment about a screechy metallic note too. I wouldn’t describe it that way, but I do get the overall impression. I’ll have to spray it on skin again to find words to describe it. Longevity on my skin is somewhat mediocre so this, for me, was a mistake. I’m reminded of Abdes Salaam Attars. Many people rave about this small independent perfumer, but to me their perfumes smell like they were made in the garage. Adi Ale Van is like that. If you like a raw, unpredictable, handmade piece, this is just what you are looking for. Regrettably it doesn’t work for me.

Extremely dark. Much darker than reviews make it out to be, there is no coffee shop to me, just a dirty scent of coffee beans, and the other notes do all stand out and make their appearance, it is much less creamy than normal coffee beans but the scent is comparable, it is DARK, do not be mislead, there is no release on the animalic notes, its ever present, if you appreciate things like halloween man X, or black phantom, this is definitely in the same genre, though it would be a stretch to say this is in the same genre as follow/followed or amore cafe, those are too sweet in comparison, good pickup for those looking for something supremely unique. If you are interested in trading an adi ale van you have of your own, i would be interested in swapping this aswell. Edit: id like to add and mention that, on my skin atleast, it comes off more like tobacco-esque tootsie rolls, which, frankly, is more pleasant than my first experience, though im quite opposed to chocolate smelling scents typically, this one to me (despite having no chocolate notes) touches on a more raw chocolate scent rather than the typical “aromatic sweetness with chocolate involved” looking at you CH bad boy, so that puts it above fragrances that actually contain some sort of chocolate note. all in all this is definitely not blind buy safe, nor can i see why this is one of his most sold fragrances, but it is an experience of artwork as always.

Wonderful scent from Adi Ale Van. I do "get" the artistic impression here I think. It reminds me slightly of my time in the army as a quite young conscript during outdoors manouvers, and blends the impressions of metal, coffee, chocolate and wildlife very well at times. Wow. The opening should thrill most people who are into coffee and tobacco scents. Top notes are very naturalistic, not to sweet and quite spicy. For my personal taste, I get too much Starbucks vibe of syrup flavourings, but I know this will be very pleasing for many people. Slightly animalic top notes are there too, and they blend surprisingly well into the overall scent impression. That is very well done, I would otherwise consider that two incompatible categories. After a while I get the green undertones and 1-2 hours after application is the best part on my skin. Unfortunately some extraits are an either-or to me, and this one fades surprisingly fast personally, but that will not be the case for everyone. I tried it on paper too where it smells solid for 12-18 hours, outperforming other samples I know perform well on me. So if this perfume fits your skin type it could be perfect for you. It is pricey if you can find it, but if you are into this style do not hesitate a moment to seek it out.

The first 10 - 20 seconds is actually REALLY pleasant. I get this warm, rich caramelly-maple syrup yumness -- and then the unfortunate coffee-bitterness kicks in and it becomes metallic, screechy and just TOO much. This might be only my experience and not mirror your experience. This metallic screech appears quite often for me. I know it could very well be my own experience and all of that, and maybe my nose is the problem. I accept that, but, you know, I can only perceive scent through the nose I have and so, for me, this is a no.

Another nice fragrance by Adi but again if you don't like animalics this wont be for you. The animalic note is pretty strong in the beginning so alot of people would probably scrub it off just from the beginning. As it dries down it gets better and better and while the animalic part of it is still there it settles into the background of the scent. Similar to Sadonaso where its a coffee type of scent with a strange muskiness in the background I do enjoy Sadonaso a bit more but this is great as well. Would get a bottle in the future!

i have a 48/50ml bottle for sale. if you are interested please dm me on my instagram 0ski866 :)

The coffee profile sounds intriguing already, but I am so here for that bottle! Wow!

A bit too close to Black Phantom to be interesting. Nice opening though.

Anyone come here after seeing TikTok niche review?