Iris Nazarena

Bir parfüm sitesini incelerken karşıma çıkmıştı. Marka değil ama zambak kokusu olduğu için daha yakından incelemek istemiştim. Daha yeni çıktığı için gerçek bir resim ortaya koyacak bir bilgi yoktu açıkcası. Yorumların ise “beğendim-beğenmedim” etrafında gezinmesi ise keyfimi kaçırmıştı. Açıkcası unuttum ve tekrar üzerinde durmadım. Aylar sonra ise elimde kendi listem ile girdiğim bir mağazada karşıma çıktı. Benim listemden ellerinde olanlar ve oldukça bilgili bulduğum satış uzmanının tavsiyeleri ile artık iyice yorulduğum sırada önüme geldi. Kağıt üzerinden aldığım koku bir fikir vermedi. Ancak zambak kokusunu sevdiğim için kol içime sıkıp mağazadan ayrıldım. Bir saat sonra kokladığımda çok hoşuma gitti. 2 saat sonra ise alınacaklar listesinde kendisine hemen yer edindi. Aynı hafta yurtdışından gelen akrabalarımın bir isteğimin olup olmadığını sormaları ile birlikte Irıs Nazarene bir hafta sonra önüme gelmiş oldu. Kadife dokulu gri bir kutusu var. Altın sarısı bir etiket ve yukarı doğru çekerek çıkan bir kutu. Sade ama kaliteli bir şişe ve sola doğru açılan bir kapak. Kaliteli bir şişe ve paketleme. Sizlere garip gelebilir ama bence şişe ve paketleme önemli. Tek eksi not aldığı nokta ise kapağın içindeki küf benzeri oluşumdu. Belki uzun bir yol geldiği için olabilir. Ancak koku ile uyumlu, çizmeye çalıştığı kişiliği yansıtan bir şişe ve paket söz konusu. Ağır, sakin, güçlü ama asla bağıran ve ben güzelim diye çırpınmayan bir yapı. Şişe ve Paketleme konusunda benim değerlendirmem 10/7 Evet, ilk olarak yumuşak bir zambak kokusu yükseliyor. Ancak yalnız değil. Sanki etrafı hafifçe tütsü, biraz deri ve deriden biraz daha baskın odunsu kokular ile sarılı. Her defasında değil ama ara sıra gül kokusuda alıyorum. Sanki filmin ilk sahnesinde tüm aktörlerin ortaya çıkması gibi bir durum söz konusu. 2-3 saat sonra deri azalıyor ve odunsu kokular daha belirginleşiyor. Gül artık ilk başta olduğu gibi saklanmıyor. Ben ud kokusu alamadım. Belki zambak kokusunu yumuşak ve farklı hale getiren oud olabilir. Burnum bunu keşfedecek kadar kuvvetli değil. 6 saat sonra zambak ile odunsu yapı başbaşa kalıyor. Bu diğer malzemelerin kaybolduğu anlamına gelmiyor. Ancak bu ikisi diğerleri üzerinde yükseliyor. 8-12 saat arasında ise zambak ile sonlanan bir yapı var. İlk denediğimde “kağıt” kokusu almamın nedenini bilmiyorum çünkü dafalarca kullanımın sonucunda da o kokuyu tekrar almadım. Sanırım bu biraz da burnumun yorulması ile ilgili olabilir. Koku güzelliği konusunda rahat bir şekilde 10/8 alır. Eğer farklılık üzerinden bir değerlendirme yapacak olursak bir puan daha kazabilir. Kalıcılık konusunda benim değerlendirmemle ilgili biraz açıklama yapmam lazım. Bazı yazarlar ve kullanıcılar 24 saat ve ötesinde kalıcılığı olan kokudan övgüler ile söz ediyor. Ben bu değerlendirmeye pek katılmıyorum. Günlük hayat pratiklerine pek uymayan süreler bunlar. Bence ideal kalıcılık süresi 12 saat olmalı. Bu süre içinde ise belirgin şekilde kalabilmeli. Kalıcılığı uzatmak genellikle kokuyu ağırlaştırmak gibi sonuçlar doğurduğu için her zaman iyi sonuçlar vermiyor. Bu anlamda kalıcılık konusunda notu 10/7 Koku izi (sillage) konusunda da ortalamanın üstünde 10/7. Bulunduğunuz ortamlarla uyumlu bir yayılma gösteriyor. Ardınızda başka insanları rahatsız edecek bir tablo oluşmuyor ama dikkat çekmeyi kesinlikle başarıyor. Açık hava da izi belirsizleşebilir ancak kapalı ortamlarda kesinlikle ağırbaşlı ve uyumlu. Kimler için uygun; Ben unisex kavramını sevmeyenlerdenim. Parfüm evi tarafından yapılan sınıflandırmaları da beğenmiyorum ve bir şekilde pazarlama açısından da bakıldığını düşünüyorum. Bu parfüm 10/7 oranında erkek kokusu. 10/3 oranında kadın. Soğuk ülkelerde bu oran erkek için 10/6 ve kadın için 10/4 şeklinde esneyebilir. Bu koku 35 yaş üzeri bir erkeğe çok yakışacaktır. Ofis ortamları için uygun, takım elbise ile son derece uyumlu, spor kıyafetlerle ise serin havalarda uyumlu olacaktır. Kullanan erkeğe kendisi ile barışık, sakin bir hava katacaktır. Koku agresif değil ama ağırlığını hissettiriyor. İlk 1-2 saat sonrasındaki düz koku çizgisi üslubu oturmuş, etrafında “dikkat çeken” değil “dikkatleri dağıtmayan” bir etki bırakacaktır. Bir bayan için pek düşünemiyorum ama kendimi zorlarsam aklıma gri etek-ceket takımı giymiş, biraz kilolu, 45 yaşlarında, yönetici konumunda ve etrafı ile ciddi mesafe koymuş biraz mutsuz bir kadın profile oluşuyor. Özünde iyi ama senaryo gereği sert-ters duran bir okul müdürü rolünü oynayan bayan. Iyi tarafını her zaman göstermeyen ama finalde iyi olan bir portre. Kadın kokularındaki cazibe, gizem, esneklik, melankoli yada sıcaklık yok. Yani erkeklere kesinlikle tavsiye ederken, kadınların en az 2-3 saat deneme sonrasında karar vermelerini öneririm.

“There was a woman at Alexandria named Hypatia, daughter of the philosopher Theon, who made such attainments in literature and science, as to far surpass all the philosophers of her own time. Having succeeded to the school of Plato and Plotinus, she explained the principles of philosophy to her auditors, many of whom came from a distance to receive her instructions. On account of the self-possession and ease of manner which she had acquired in consequence of the cultivation of her mind, she not infrequently appeared in public in the presence of the magistrates. Neither did she feel abashed in going to an assembly of men. For all men on account of her extraordinary dignity and virtue admired her the more.” Who would dare to claim that they ever truly understood the iris. She evokes so many questions. Why does she smell so dry and yet so fresh? And why is she so goddamn proud? Prouder even than the rose, this vain beauty? It was not until I had smelled Iris Nazarena for the first time that I slowly started to realise that there is far more to her than the glamorous upper class girl who wants to be from the 1920s (she wasn’t actually fashionable in the 1920s). That was when I started asking questions about her. That was when I started thinking that the ink that Hypatia used to write about the stars smelled of Iris Nazarena. The first impression I got when I first discovered this scent was that of cucumber. And it would not go away for hours, and it would really irritate me, and perhaps it was this first impression that evoked all the questions. At first, I thought it was the juniper berry, deciding to turn my skin into a gin-soaked stage for a show in which the iris had no place. Then I realised that the damp, earthy, slightly mouldy smell was her. In my head she had always been nude, powdery, yet disguising her heart under a glittering flapper dress. When I smelled Iris Nazarena, she changed her dress into a grey silk gown. There is no glitter, but there is so much heart. Yet, it is not a warm heart, it is thoughtful though, and old. Oh, she makes me feel so old now, ancient even. Iris Nazarena is not a young scent. She is sitting in a library that has been on this earth for centuries, inhaling the breath of old books that someone has been trying very hard to keep dry. But the slightly sweet dampness is creeping through the pages anyways, telling stories of the decay that is inevitably to come in many years’ time. This dichotomy of dry, powdery notes and the damp, earthy smell of carrots that have just been pulled out of the soil after the rain, the ambiguity of a cool yet sensual note, is what Iris Nazarena smells like. It strikes me as peculiar when people describe the scent as being similar to that of dry soil. To me, it is both earthy and dry, but not at the same time. Iris Nazarena develops slowly, almost painfully so. It is not a linear scent, but the different stages of the iris change subtly over long hours, from soaked earth in the beginning to dried and grinded roots in the end. When this last facet of her is slowly exhaled from my skin I hear the laughter of that girl in the flapper dress in the distance. It is the familiar, powdery laughter of someone I have not seen for a very long time, but who I always wished was my friend, yet who I always just admired from the distance. She looks as young and glamorous as she did so many years ago. But her eyes, her eyes are so old and grey. And there it is. Before she fades away, the slightest hint of warmth, as if she recognises me too, assuring me that she had always been my friend.

بیشتر از هر عطری تمدید کردم،حداقل شش هفت بار خریدم از زیر چهارصد تومن تا آخرین بار درونیم و همه از شقایق یک. از زنبق بیزارم و هرگز دیور هوم نخریدم اما داشتم، بااینحال این هیچ ربطی به اون زنبق ها نداره و عالی بلکه شاهکاره[من پرادا لهوم هم کار زنبق دوست داشتنی ام بود که بار اول همون سال اول لانچ از عباسی پرفیوم شاپینگ گرفتم محش بود اما اواخر اسفند اخیر از هایلند آرژانتین گرفتم شک ندارم یا فیک یا اینکه پرادا ریفرموله نکرده بلکه ریده] این اما بقول دوستی زنبق نیست روغن ریشه زنبق و خیلی ریچ و متفاوت از زنبق های مرسوم. زنبق تو شروع و تا نیم‌ساعت شاهکار و البته از ابتدا اون تم معروف برند آئدس د ونوستاس که حالت دودی چوبی خاص خودش داره منتهی اینجا دود با زنبق و کمی چرم که خوب چرم بعد تو درای داون بیشتر میشه اما آکورد تا نت. من تا چندسال حسم به این عطر عجیب بود و گمان میکردم عطریست که فقط دوست دارم تو خونه بپوشم! تااینکه در زلزله کرمانشاه وقتی رفتم کمک بعد چندروز اومدم کرمانشاه خونه دوستم و یه پک سی میل از این عطر بهش هدیه دادم،خانمش که پزشک عاشقش شد و منم یکی از ده میل های همون پک برداشتم رفتم بیرون قدم زدن به خودم زدم ببینم بیرون چه حسی داره! اوایل پاییز بود اما دیوانه ام کرد و فهمیدم مشکل هوای گند تهران بوده احتمالا.به هرحال بعدش دیگه برگشتم با آیریس نازارینا دوش میگرفتم که خوب اشتباه بود چون ابدا عطر روزمره یا حتی گهگداری نیست بلکه حرمتی داره که جز در موقعیت خودش حیف بپوشیش.بهترین عطر رمانتیک برای زوج های میانسال متشخص هم همین گرچه خانم و آقایی که اینو بپذیرند قطعا ذائقه هنری الیگارشیک دارند و باید بهشون غبطه خورد. پرفورمنس کار عالی ست اما ممکنه فریب بخورید گمون کنید متوسط و این خیلی خطرناک چون این عطر که بهترین زمانش بهار و پاییز و البته بیشتر شبانه است و رمانتیک یا مهمانی های کوچک همفکرانی که جیغ نمی زنند، پخش و ماندگاری عالی داره اما اسپری می کنید اینطور نیست که متوجه بشید عالی ست چون نت تند و هارش نداره همه چیز در اوج بالانس، فلذا اگر بالای پنج شش پاف بزنید قطعا فقط حروم کردید عطرتون[البته من شیشه های جدید حتی تست نکردم گرچه شقایق آورده بود و نمیدونم تغییر کردن یا نه اما قبلی ها در تمام موارد هیچ تغییر طی هفت هشت سال استفاده ندیدم.حتی بنظرم یک پاف کفایت میکنه اگر شخصی بخواید لذت ببرید.بسیار قوی ست اما خیلی راحت هم ممکنه فکر کنید این عطر متوسط‌. اگر خودستایی نباشه کسی اندازه من عطر نیش نخریده که راستش مثل سگ پشیمونم چون باهاش خیلی کارها میشد کرد و نکردم، اما عطری در این حد از توازن و بالانس بودن نت ها و آکوردها اونم با وجود زنبق که همواره با پودری کردن فضا ذهن متمایل به ایمجینه های میاننایه میکنه و کپی بهترین عطرهای زنبقی میتونه نوددرصد مشابه اصل باشه، آیریس نازارینا جوهری ست که هیچ مشابهی نداره[همین پرادا لهوم که هیچ ربطی به آیریس نازارینا نداره، یه مشابه ارزون داره که مال برند اجمل و من اخیرا جایی تست کردم دیدم حتی از پرادا لهوم من که سه ماه پیش از هایلند خریدم از هر جهت بهتر و نشستم دقیقه به دقیقه از هر نظر مقایسه کردم و به همین دلیل گفتم تردید ندارم هایلند و برخی هموطنان ایرانی کارهای کثیفی می کنند چون اون اجمل هم تولید ایرانی اش بود که تازه میگن ضعیف تر از تولید امارات!! شنیدم گلرنگ داره عطرهای پلیس ایتالیا و چند برند دیکه را با محوز میزنه!! ناگفته نمونه من این پرادا لهوم تا با موردهای موجود در خارج مقایسه نکنم رها نمیکنم چرا که تولید اول که داشتم عالی بود نت هاش دونه به دونه قابل تفکیک بود خصوصا نت نرولی اش اما این یکی دقیقا مثل اجمل گلد ادیشن بل پرفورمنس خوب مثل اون].به هرحال باید هم زنبق لبنانی چنین چیزی باشه. دوتا کار دیگه از این برند دوست دارم اما گل سرسبد و شاهکار برند آئودس د ونوستاس همین آیریس نازارینا هستش.ل

Being an iris lover I wanted to try this perfume for ages and when I finally got a 2ml tester I somehow managed to spill almost everything on me... Luckily the reviews say that it is not a powerful fragrance and in my opinion indeed it is discreet and maybe it is better in this case to put on more of the juice than usual to really” get this” fume, Which is difficult because there is something elusive about Iris Nazarena and the claimes as “mysterious, mystical and sensual” is actually not just some mumbo jumbo nonsense but an accurate description. The Iris Nazarena opens very carroty on me but not as carroty as say New Sibet. These carrots are freshly rinsed cold clean and being cut. But Iris Nazarena is not just about irises carrotyness it’s more of homage to the kind of marriages a beautiful iris can make with woods and leather. The woodiness has a projective aura that makes me believe that there is some ISO molecule involved; the woody notes has similar airy qualities as Poivre Samarcand and after a while a lovely refreshing soapy leather note appears and that note has some similarities to Bottega Venata Eau Legere. What gorgeous relations an iris can make! If you love your fragrances gentle and whispering and natural like as if your skin actually could smell this good and you are not annoyed when a fragrance does some mysterious dancing on your skin and most of all if you love iris you really need to try this fragrance. It got some resemblence to other fragrances but it is still unique. This is the first time me wearing Iris Nazarena I am in no position to tell you that this fragrance is worth spending money on a full bottle because we all know how provoking it is to get just a few hours of playtime with a incredible fume, but please try to get hold of an sample and apply generously. This is a unisex fragrance the opening act leans perhaps more masculine and it might read more sensual and alluring on a man but it has some calming and soothing qualities that everybody could enjoy. I think Iris Nazarena could be an excellent fragrance to wear in the spring and on colder summer days because it has pureness but also subtly inviting gradations to it but in a very elegant and exclusive manner, no fabric detergent cleanliness to be feared, just pure iris woody leather pleasures to be expected.

So I bought this on the spot and I often worry about such extravagant, impulse purchases because I usually regret them, if not entirely then in certainly in a minor way. I must say Iris Nazarena has held up well, it's two weeks later and I still love this fragrance. The opening was a real eyeopener for me, a soft, creamy, powdery leather and not unfamiliar from many fragrances I would've perhaps dubbed 'a bit feminine' in the past. It's brilliant though. The Iris is obvious in the opening and throughout but what struck me was just how real and buttery the leather smell is in here. It's not rough or aged this is brand new, modern, Italian, white leather. It's also woody in the extreme from the getgo. I mean there's an unmistakable quality sandalwood in this fragrance that perfectly compliments and accents the Iris and leather. I'd say there's trace hints of spice and that comes over more in the deep satisfying drydown. The one critisim of this scent could be that it's not all that strong or long lasting. I would argue that it smells so good I can forgive it these minor issues and I put plenty on, so it easily lasts all day and sticks to clothing very effectively. It's an intimate scent which doesn't need to announce itself or project wildly so that didn't bother me either. Like I mentioned, It's not totally unique or like nothing I've smelled before, I mean loads of iris scents spring to mind but few deliver the sandalwood and leather in such abundance and balance. It's a bit like Dior Homme/Homme parfum, Zegna's Florentine Iris, YSL's Noble leather, Ann Gerard Cuir d' Nacre and any quality sandalwood fragrance you'd care to insert here. The point is Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is a perfect storm of all of these, arriving on my radar at a perfect time and therefore getting fast tracked into my wardrobe. I don't know why this elegant scent spoke to me so much... but it did. This fragrance is an absolute winner. Oh before I go! Just briefly on the bottle design. I tutted and rolled my eyes at the SA who couldn't wait to show me AdV and the fancy stopper mechanism but actually it was only upon getting it home and handling the bottle for myself that I actually think it's a cool design.

Before summer started my friend and I went for a few days to France. We were sightseeing Chateaux de la Loire (Loire Valley Castles, but doesn’t sound so nice, does it?). One of them was Villandry, a small chateau with extensive, beautiful gardens. One part of the gardens seemed to be a bit wild, like abandoned or maybe forgotten. The vegetation was dry and sparse as if somebody forgot to water the plants. But every now and then there was a small bunch of pale lilac irises, almost white with light yellow pollen inside. I looked at them and they were stunning. To this day I have no idea why, at some point, I decided to kneel down and placed my nose right into the middle of the flower, since I always thought that irises didn’t smell. But they do! It’s very delicate, very subtle fragrance. Hidden inside the flower so it doesn’t project far. Obviously with my nose right inside the flower I could smell it very well. And dear lord, that was one great smell. And at that precise moment I thought: if I could get a perfume like that. I’m not much into all this new age thing but they say that one needs to manifest they wishes. I did and my wishes come true. Iris Nazarena smells like the irises from Villandry. Not at the very beginning which is dry, aniseedy, a bit harsh and there is nothing tender and delicate about it. I guess that’s why some people suggest is more on a masculine side. But that phase doesn’t last long, maybe half an hour at most. And what’s left is almost linear, only with few subtle meanders of woods and leather, and gorgeous iris. The perfume stays close to the skin, it’s got small projection, but it’s there. It’s definitely not short lived and after I sprayed it on my wrists I could smell it for hours – 6 at least and that’s with my dry skin that doesn’t keep fragrances for long. If I could describe it in few words I’d say Iris Nazarena is elegant, sophisticated, somehow subdued but definitely beautiful in its simplicity. Top of my ‘To buy list’. Update 09/10/2013 Bought it. Love it!

This is an uncongenial, rooty, ashen Iris from your wine cellar. It smells like the finest dusty orris smeared over hot cigar box cedar, and just when you think this is an old “Gentleman’s Club” scent, a warm, lightly spiced musky moist ambrette, whose vegetal heat enhances the Iris, emerges with the tiniest touch of rose. Suddenly, you smell freshly peeled—not boiled, but just-uprooted—carrot, in your hand, shreds of sweet-dry carrot. Such an underrated rich root. This fragrance is half old Sire, half young Dandy. It’s a silver-haired gentleman, or a freshly sweating cook. But in any case, it’s a serious scent. And somehow, like a will o’ the wisp, you’ll see a star anise glow with cold dark licorice light. If this were a painting, it would be Mantegna’s 1480 “The Lamentation over the Dead Christ.” Pale. Grey. Dead. But with a touch of red from where the blood flowed out...And an otherworldly gloom. I mean this with reverence and respect. It’s so refreshing not to smell yet another cutesy pie fruity sweet powdery Iris! This is for grown ups and brave youngsters. The Iris, thanks to its supporting accords, lasts for 8 hours, which is remarkable. The far drydown is a bone dry woody hum. On my clothing the full and entire composition lasts 18 hours. Masterpiece Iris. Edit as of April 12, 2022: On fabric, the dry rose comes out with woody notes and shines for more than 12+ hours. In some respects best fragrance reminds me of Le Cri.

A beautifully rooty, dry, carroty, orrisy iris wonder, with no hint of the sugary or wet-violet vibes which don't please me in this genre. Somehow deeply calming, tending almost savoury, and fascinatingly unisex (from one angle it's old-fashioned ladies' face powder, from another a male-skewing, woody, discreetly spicy treatment). If Iris Silver Mist is your ultimate (as it is for me), then this may be an acceptable alternative if ISM's unobtainable, unaffordable or just feels a little too moody for the day. Nazarena has the same sense of making a grey day gorgeous, though it's not half as sulky-gothic as the Serge classic. Like many a really good iris composition, the Nazarena also embodies a paradox (or two, or three): it can seem frustratingly discreet and close to the skin - but has frankly amazing lasting power, even on skin - definitely present for up to 6 hours and still detectable, for a really close-up, full-nostril huff, as many as 12-14 hours after application. Which makes it a done deal. Yet another underrated gem from Aedes de Venustas, a house that never hypes itself or jumps a bandwagon, but just keeps making really top-quality, intelligent and satisfying work. All the stars from me! If however you're after a big-bang, sparkling, or ultra-femme impression it may not be so spellbinding. That's OK - all the better for us shyer, but loyal, flowers to snap up all available supplies of this lovely thing.

An enchating aura. A gorgeous fragrance, of great depth and sophistication. Its incredible smooth dark welcoming but mysterious aroma lasts for a long time. Heat on the body brings out its power and makes the individual incense, juniper, and base of leathery/ambrette (and amber making it kind of rose-esque/amber-esque or at least adjacent). It can make one feel important and formidable but still humble -- like one has a hidden knowledge of some metaphysical power and that knowledge and intelligence is goes through a matter transformation from thought to aromatic air. An idea made airborne, shareable. Im not a fan of smokey fragrances however Iris Nazarena uses smoke like a kind of wood -- the smoke is focused more on a charred rosewood - melded with oud. All these creamy but translucent heart notes feels nourishing. Also the travel spray is easily the most decadent little trick I've ever seen. Kind of impractical but covetable indulgence. And of course the bottle is gorgeous. The twisted glass is heavy and feels luxurious, cool and solid. The thickness of the base something a bit like a pot lyonnaise (which may be quotidien in some places but in this instance is imbuing quality) Maybe even more than the golden atomizer and its unique levered / lighter-like closure.

When I first tried this I thought I fell in love. Head over heals in love. In cold weather, Iris Nazarena is stunning. Its a soft, delicate bouquet of freshly cut iris flowers and stems juxtaposed against the signature cigarette ash like incense note of this house, an astringent juniper note and a beautiful gently spicy clove note. It is luminous, wispy like smoke and clean but somehow very unisex. I was convinced a full bottle was in my future. I am wearing it again tonight, in 80 degrees Fahrenheit weather. The iris note is no longer fresh, its intensely soapy (it missed powdery or soft completely today) and smells exactly like fabric softener and clean laundry. Almost no other notes are detectable. At the moment I almost can't understand how this is the same fragrance. The jury is still out on whether or not I truly want a bottle. I may just need to wear it in cooler weather. Try multiple times before you buy!

With every passing day and with every new fragrance I try I’m convinced that Mr Ralf is one of the most underrated perfumers not only of this generation but of all time A master of his craft every fragrance I try that he made I love his work even more What u found out wearing iris Nazarena is that it’s definitely one of the greatest iris scents that I’ve ever tried and I tested a lot of them and most of them are actually very close to each other The iris usually overpowers the rest of the notes in other scents but here the contrast is unbelievable Iris and leather was never this good when I tried it from other brands Performance could’ve been better but it wasn’t bad Projection for the first two hours was incredible ( I overspray) A side note I’m reviewing the old purple bottle One more thing This fragrance is the strongest resembling one to the color purple I don’t know why but it’s what I felt like

I like this very, very much: it's definitely monochrome, not purple, but not harsh or dull: it's chic like a perfectly framed black-and-white photograph discreetly on display in an elegant home. The opening is an exquisite puff of cool smoke, the heart is a perfectly balanced blend of lipsticky iris and smooth leather. Those who wory about leather or smoke as potentially harsh, you won't be blasted with PVC & ashtray stink: it's all very well rounded and calm here, and the tobacco is definitely tobacco, not fags. The drydown (we're talking eight hours down the line) allows a little more sweetness to come through, and I can finally smell a bit of rose. Such a joy to wear it and smell it developing (so many perfumes nowadays don't have any kind of development to speak of). Every iris lover should try this.

Despite what the name suggests, I don’t find a classic powdery iris here, nor anything remotely religious (the name comes from the use of an iris harvested in the hills of Nazareth). I’m one of the few who find this fragrance vaguely reminiscent of the Ganymede/MAB DNA: that mineral, elegant and ethereal air, with a touch of suede-like leather over a very rich and modern molecular base, even though the perfume was conceived back in 2013. The fragrance feels dry, green, and very refined, with a soapy facet that adds cleanliness and versatility. What’s most beautiful is how airy it remains without ever losing body or presence over time, and on top of that, it has excellent performance. A different kind of iris: highly elegant, with a unique personality. A true icon of niche perfumery.

This perfume has one of the highest alpha-iron levels among reference irises. This means the iris oil used is of very high quality. And I think it's one of the most masculine irises I've ever encountered... I know women who wear it and I think it suits them, but I'm thinking of gifting it to my boyfriend. By the way, I think it's a clean, powdery-smelling iris. It's not sweet or buzy. The initial green undertone completely disappears after half an hour. It opens intensely, then deepens, and becomes even more intense after half an hour. By the third hour, I immediately decided this is a great men's perfume. Because I tried it on myself, I could still smell it the next morning and throughout the day. I loved its performance and quality... 😍😍😍

Floral tobacco. Warm, dusty, woody, with a strong smoky incense present... I don't actually get much iris, except maybe as a smooth coolness behind leather and spices. There’s a strange contradiction of dry and sweet, like a desert spice market, and behind it all is an inhuman, dessicated saltiness. Despite the floral softness of the rose there’s a sense of emotional distance. A desert landscape is the perfect image of Nazarena’s mood. As it dries down the sweet woodiness recedes and it becomes cooler and even drier as the iris finally shows up, along with vetiver; at this point it reminds me a lot of CdG's angular and abstract 2. Restrained and distant.

I am a bit torn. I love the smell of this perfume. A smokey, leathery iris of stunning beauty. A masterpiece. But it only whispers on my skin. I have to snif my wrist to smell it, touching the skin with the tip of my nose to be able to notice it. But wow, such beauty. Am I prepared to pay such an exorbitant amount of money for a perfume that is so soft? I am not quite sure. Edit: I had to buy it. I used my tester to the last little drop, even opening the little container to savour the last whisps of this lovely perfume. I rarely empty testers, but this fragrance is truly addictive. Take a deep breath, pay, and forget the price. It is worth it!

125) Iris Silver Sharp The opening is reminiscent of Iris Silver Mist (my favorite perfume) and soon the fragrance evolves into a bitter aspect, earthy and almost metallic Iris. It is not at all comparable to a flowery composition, I guess breathed in a neck it must give the impression of being the emanation of an ornament in metal plates. Cold incense, anise, cloves and behind a slight heat given by woody notes , oud and rose. Very beautiful composition even if pure iris being predominantly a bitter odor (unpleasant almost). Depending if spray on fabric or skin you don't have the same perfume.

Iris Nazarena is an exceptional iris fragrance. While iris often remains in the background in perfumes such as Dior Homme, here it takes center stage, with other elements arranged around it. The composition feels woody, slightly green, and powdery. The drydown is the most impressive aspect, as the woods emerge and blend seamlessly with the iris. The green nuances are subtle and not very dominant. Longevity is solid, with five sprays providing around six to eight hours of wear. Among Copal Azur, Café Tabac, and Iris Nazarena, Aedes has become one of my favorite houses at the moment.

This beautiful scent needs its iris to work hard. And hard the iris works. At first it gives its earthy-vegetal (carrots) best, then it produces an amazing smoky (incense) effort, followed by an equally special leathery attempt, until it finally discloses its supreme flowery self. A brilliant piece of work. Overall mood is a bit gloomy, but highly wearable in an impeccable way. All housed in an accordingly weighty dim-lighted bottle with the most elegant of caps to complete one of the best presentations in recent memory. A niche of the highest order. *****

Aedes des Venustas Iris Nazarena (2013) - woody iris - A unique Iris perfume by @perfumer.ralf.schwieger that removes the lipstick and powdery essence that we commonly associate and focuses on dryness. To create balance, he adds spice (Anise & Clove), Rose and Leather. He refines that further with a well-built woody base mixed with Vetiver, smoke, and Ambrette musk. An #iris perfume that isn’t contemplative, but assertive and full-bodied. One of the best Iris perfumes.