Black Walnut

Black Walnut is a limited edition perfume created by John Biebel from January Scent Project for American Perfumer. When I first read the blurb for this fragrance in 2022 and saw the perfumer behind it, I entered the lottery, as I knew it would turn out to be something unique. I think John does some of the most unique perfumes out there. Moreover, as a child, I loved eating walnuts fresh from the three or after they'd fall off. I was lucky enough to win and amazed at how accurately the perfume fit the brief. It instantly transported me back to my childhood. I used to eat dozens of these, maybe hundreds. Gathered them, peeled off the husk, cracked them open, and ate the kernels. My hands would stain pitch black in the process as they contain this natural pigment called juglone. It was a pain washing it out of the skin. But man, they sure did taste good. That whole memory gets back to me every single time I spray this perfume. The whole process, the places, the flavors, all captured and unfolded so vividly. So if you ever went through the process of eating walnuts fresh, from the husk, that's exactly what this perfume smells like, 100%. If you haven't, first, you missed out. But no worries. You can still do it. Or sample this perfume. It really is amazing how John captured all the flavors and delicate nuances in this composition. In the opening, you definitely get the green, slightly citrus-like smell which resembles the husk of the fruit. Once you're done with the husk, you get to the shell, and then, the fruit. Here, you get some soft woody facets, a nutty, milky, slightly vanilla flavor, and a noticeable bitterness. The woody smell hints at the shell, while the nutty-milky-vanillic accord to the kernel, the edible part. The kernels are naturally lined with a thin skin, which tastes really bitter. And that's what the bitter smell in here wants to evoke. The perfume also features some other subtle notes and accords, after all, it is a fragrance, and therefore it is shaped as one. Some soft floral accords as well as soothing cashmeran accord. In the base, it gets slightly more earthy and woody, as the vetiver and the sandalwood make themselves more assertive. But overall, it feels quite linear, and the subtle transitions could easily go unnoticed. A very comforting scent. Woody, nutty, a tad sweet, and a tad bitter as well. To me, it also has a nostalgic feel, making it that much special. Hands-down one of my best purchases in 2022, and one of the most unique perfumes I have ever smelled. If you are looking for unique compositions, then keep an eye on anything John has to offer, you will not be disappointed. IG:@memory.of.scents

My friend John Biebel gave me this as a gift this year, and I am enthralled by its design. Pinning down a proper nut accord is no small feat for the perfumer, as the various materials used require a deft hand and an understanding of gestalt in creating such accords. The black walnut, unlike its English walnut cousin for which most are far more familiar, is more complex to the gustatory and olfactory palate. There is this distinct bittersweet, earthy tang that may come as a surprise to those who experience it for the first time, with a mushroom umami and musty density to its finish. This can also describe their delicious aroma as well. John captures their essence here, taking care to impart the inherent woodiness of the nut, bridging bitterness with a soft sweetness. He sneaks in this orange blossom that seems to elevate the effect as such an accord shares the same qualities—the dualities of bitter and sweet, fragrant and pungent. I also think that using Cashmeran here is an ingenious move as its own velvety, woody earthiness anchors the effect into the dry down. The overall sensation in Black Walnut is that of contemplation; its meditative, allaying in feel. One must be open to appreciate a nut accord in perfume without the praline or dessert—while vanilla is here, it is a subtle blender to the experience: this is no conventional gourmand. It is, however, a poetic beauty.

I wonderful fragrance-friend sent me a generous sample of this fragrance and omg...this is soooo delicious!! It is light, fresh sexy-floral, warm and smooth, creamy and vanillic all at the same time! I'm absolutely LOVING this!!! Sad to hear that it was a limited-time release... If anyone has a suggestion for a dupe or replacement, please let me know.

Photorealistic walnut opening, sunbaked vanilla, creamy blond woods. Faint, almond milk laced backdrop. Transforms into walnut “fat”. Weap-y florals. Traces of tonka. I wish I could buy a full bottle

If anyone wants to unload their bottle of Black Walnut by American Perfumer, I'm interested. :-)