Incarnata

Very beautiful perfume for those who are in the search of the perfect lipstick scent. In 2014 I had a bottle pf Editions de Parfums Freceric Malle “Lipstick Rose”. I adored it. But somewhere in 2015-2016 when I had finished mine and tried new batches in store, I realized that it’s not quite the same. Around 2018 it smelled even more differently. Later on I got to know that IFRA is banning every year new natural as well as synthetic ingredients not only due health or environmental issues, but as well as political economical issues. And therefor I believe that lots of commercial luxury brands and definitely designer brands have reformulated their perfumes. I’m glad I had the opportunity to try “Incarnata”, because I have found my perfect lipstick scent. I would go even so far that I would say that it is even better on my skin than the older version of “Lipstick Rose”. I have pale and soft skin with colder undertones. At first violet and slightly creamy and powdery nuances come up. First 10-15 minutes it smells a bit like mature lady’s old boudoir. And due to this it may not please those who are not fond of scents which through them back in time and can be associated with “grandma scents”. I’m personally not against such scents and live to travel in time through perfumes. With time the composition turns more complex and beautiful new nuances start to play on skin. After an hour the balance between raspberry, violet, orris, rose and suede is just magnificent. Myrrh and benjoin are very good addition to the composition as they balance very well those powdery and floral-fruity notes. “Lipstick Rose” had something slightly green on my skin, most probably violet leaves. “Incarnata” doesn’t have this green note and therefor it smells more authentic on my skin. But as every person has their unique body odour and skin “chemistry” I think that this is that type of perfume which will be suitable rather for few than for many. On my skin “Incarnata” is longlasting (around 10 hours), although for me it’s not a criteria for a good perfume. But “Incarnata” is definitely a good perfume. It is elegant, well-balanced and “pure” in a sense that I don’t detect any cloying synthetic fixatives which are present in such brands as Ex Nihilo, Parfums de Marly, INITIO, Byredo, XERJOFF etc. i would recommend this perfume for those who have pale skin with colder undertones. On warmer and darker skin the raspberry note and rose will be mist probably more dominant. Correct me if I’m wrong.

I agree Razzmatazz. This is for the die hard iris lipstick powder fan’s even border lining vulgar for some lol. But that is what makes me love it more..same concept with Shalimar and I love that one too and can't imagine living without it..Over the years of trying many perfumes this is so refreshing and unique. I crave fragrances different like this. I think Incarnata encapsulates the whole artistic concept of the meaning of make up. I love iris and have been craving for something like this. This is the ultimate lipstick scent I always return back to. A beautiful raspberry lipstick full of buttery, waxy iris..mixed with violet and pressed with powdered make-up. This is as rouge as rouge can get. I love it so much. Well worth testing out for sure. Turns into a caramelized spice a bit when it dries down because of the suede, amber, benzoin and vanilla, but those notes help to bring the texture of make-up that’s so velvet. The Iris stays the whole way through in comparison to most other lipstick based fragrances. When I first sprayed this it lasted for hours..I think over time you may feel it lasts less but a lot of these lipstick fragrances are usually lighter to encapture solely that lipstick feel and I do believe your nose just gets immune to these type of notes quickly when they don't have those heavier bases we are use to, but it's still very much there and present other wise how do you smell it all day when you first try a lot of fragrances that do the same thing ..some fragrances do that and sometimes that's upsetting like with baccarat rouge..taking fragrance breaks to reset your nose can fix a lot of that..at the end of the day you still enjoy it because it does come in and out and I feel like this one is the same way... A very nostalgic perfume for those who love make-up scents. Makes me want to try other make-up scents it smells so good, but I feel like this is enough for me for right now because it's a perfect blend of make-up and the price is reasonable for niche. A beautiful work of art for me.My other favorite Iris fragrances so far with this being the best for the interpretation of lipstick and make-up are Chanel No 19 the original & Poudre, Iris Dragee by Maison Lancôme, Guerlain Parfum Initial & various Lolita Lempicka creation’s.

This is one of the most curious beasts I ever laid my nose on! When I first tested it, I immediately put it in the "lipstic/make-up perfumes" category, where I keep my Misia and Lipstick Rose. I thought it is the same idea, only much friendlier, more cheerful than Misia and less air-headed and ditsy than LR. Just what I was looking for. I used up my little sample vial and I decided to pull the trigger on a full bottle. Then last night, as I got to bed, having refreshed Incarnata on my skin, suddenly I smelled something completely different...olives! Black, oily olives, with a distinctive ripe,earthy, leathery quality. I was shocked! It was the same perfume, yet told a completely different story! I love both stories, mind you, but they are so totally disparate, and yet they are basically the same thing, which is truly inexplicable. I look from left: it's a lipstick, I look from right: it is a bowl of olives. I think this is why I am eternally in love with perfumes: the surprize, the mystery, the shapeshifting, the unfathomable. They have their own will, their own personalities, they change according to the weather, the time of day, time spent on skin, the mood of the moment, and sometimes just so. Today then it is all about myrrh, with its wonderfully solemn, spiritual, meditative glory. I know one thing for sure: I love this stuff to bits!

A Masterpiece. Incarnata is Old Hollywood Glamour, specifically, it is Film Noir. While Lipstick Rose evokes Marilyn Monroe wearing a shimmery nude dress in "Some Like it Hot" while cooing "I wanna be loved by you", Incarnata is Joan Bennett on a stormy night, dressed all in black as "The Woman in the Window" in the 1944 gothic thriller. Dark, mysterious, glamorous, and entrancingly beautiful. Incarnata is described as a makeup accord of lipstick and vintage loose powder. Iris mingles with rose, powdery violet, and a touch of raspberry. At the base, rich amber, vanilla, benzoin and myrrh blend with suede to suggest cosmetics at the depths of an expensive handbag. Myrrh steals the show, lending an elegantly somber, introspective tone. The scent of waxy lipstick is photorealistic, conjuring the image of a femme fatale preparing for an evening out, seated at her elegant dressing table in a black lace robe, surrounded by dripping taper candles. Incarnata is beautiful in the winter. It would be perfect for a romantic date or an evening at home while watching old black and white movies. 10 out of 10 for scent, longevity, and projection. Incarnata is a sparkling jewel in my collection.

I cut my fraghead baby teeth on loud American fragrances from Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors in the nineties and early aughts, and we’re still very much living in an era where beast mode is the benchmark, so experiencing something as subtle as Incarnata feels like a relief. The restraint shown here feels intentional and considered. This is a scent that shines because of its softness, not despite it. To me it is equal parts powder, florals, fruit, and suede. The raspberry note is especially well done. It's juicy and noticeable without ever tipping into Sun-Ripened Raspberry territory. And even with the muted sillage, it does have great longevity - present on skin for a full work day and beyond. I'm working my way through a decant and will definitely buy a bottle (which I also love, btw - so chic.) Smells like: Carol Aird - lipstick, powder, and leather gloves Looks like: the soft pink haze of a midcentury starlet Sounds like: your favorite cover of "Moon River"