Incarnata

Very beautiful perfume for those who are in the search of the perfect lipstick scent. In 2014 I had a bottle pf Editions de Parfums Freceric Malle “Lipstick Rose”. I adored it. But somewhere in 2015-2016 when I had finished mine and tried new batches in store, I realized that it’s not quite the same. Around 2018 it smelled even more differently. Later on I got to know that IFRA is banning every year new natural as well as synthetic ingredients not only due health or environmental issues, but as well as political economical issues. And therefor I believe that lots of commercial luxury brands and definitely designer brands have reformulated their perfumes. I’m glad I had the opportunity to try “Incarnata”, because I have found my perfect lipstick scent. I would go even so far that I would say that it is even better on my skin than the older version of “Lipstick Rose”. I have pale and soft skin with colder undertones. At first violet and slightly creamy and powdery nuances come up. First 10-15 minutes it smells a bit like mature lady’s old boudoir. And due to this it may not please those who are not fond of scents which through them back in time and can be associated with “grandma scents”. I’m personally not against such scents and live to travel in time through perfumes. With time the composition turns more complex and beautiful new nuances start to play on skin. After an hour the balance between raspberry, violet, orris, rose and suede is just magnificent. Myrrh and benjoin are very good addition to the composition as they balance very well those powdery and floral-fruity notes. “Lipstick Rose” had something slightly green on my skin, most probably violet leaves. “Incarnata” doesn’t have this green note and therefor it smells more authentic on my skin. But as every person has their unique body odour and skin “chemistry” I think that this is that type of perfume which will be suitable rather for few than for many. On my skin “Incarnata” is longlasting (around 10 hours), although for me it’s not a criteria for a good perfume. But “Incarnata” is definitely a good perfume. It is elegant, well-balanced and “pure” in a sense that I don’t detect any cloying synthetic fixatives which are present in such brands as Ex Nihilo, Parfums de Marly, INITIO, Byredo, XERJOFF etc. i would recommend this perfume for those who have pale skin with colder undertones. On warmer and darker skin the raspberry note and rose will be mist probably more dominant. Correct me if I’m wrong.

I agree Razzmatazz. This is for the die hard iris lipstick powder fan’s even border lining vulgar for some lol. But that is what makes me love it more..same concept with Shalimar and I love that one too and can't imagine living without it..Over the years of trying many perfumes this is so refreshing and unique. I crave fragrances different like this. I think Incarnata encapsulates the whole artistic concept of the meaning of make up. I love iris and have been craving for something like this. This is the ultimate lipstick scent I always return back to. A beautiful raspberry lipstick full of buttery, waxy iris..mixed with violet and pressed with powdered make-up. This is as rouge as rouge can get. I love it so much. Well worth testing out for sure. Turns into a caramelized spice a bit when it dries down because of the suede, amber, benzoin and vanilla, but those notes help to bring the texture of make-up that’s so velvet. The Iris stays the whole way through in comparison to most other lipstick based fragrances. When I first sprayed this it lasted for hours..I think over time you may feel it lasts less but a lot of these lipstick fragrances are usually lighter to encapture solely that lipstick feel and I do believe your nose just gets immune to these type of notes quickly when they don't have those heavier bases we are use to, but it's still very much there and present other wise how do you smell it all day when you first try a lot of fragrances that do the same thing ..some fragrances do that and sometimes that's upsetting like with baccarat rouge..taking fragrance breaks to reset your nose can fix a lot of that..at the end of the day you still enjoy it because it does come in and out and I feel like this one is the same way... A very nostalgic perfume for those who love make-up scents. Makes me want to try other make-up scents it smells so good, but I feel like this is enough for me for right now because it's a perfect blend of make-up and the price is reasonable for niche. A beautiful work of art for me.My other favorite Iris fragrances so far with this being the best for the interpretation of lipstick and make-up are Chanel No 19 the original & Poudre, Iris Dragee by Maison Lancôme, Guerlain Parfum Initial & various Lolita Lempicka creation’s.

This is one of the most curious beasts I ever laid my nose on! When I first tested it, I immediately put it in the "lipstic/make-up perfumes" category, where I keep my Misia and Lipstick Rose. I thought it is the same idea, only much friendlier, more cheerful than Misia and less air-headed and ditsy than LR. Just what I was looking for. I used up my little sample vial and I decided to pull the trigger on a full bottle. Then last night, as I got to bed, having refreshed Incarnata on my skin, suddenly I smelled something completely different...olives! Black, oily olives, with a distinctive ripe,earthy, leathery quality. I was shocked! It was the same perfume, yet told a completely different story! I love both stories, mind you, but they are so totally disparate, and yet they are basically the same thing, which is truly inexplicable. I look from left: it's a lipstick, I look from right: it is a bowl of olives. I think this is why I am eternally in love with perfumes: the surprize, the mystery, the shapeshifting, the unfathomable. They have their own will, their own personalities, they change according to the weather, the time of day, time spent on skin, the mood of the moment, and sometimes just so. Today then it is all about myrrh, with its wonderfully solemn, spiritual, meditative glory. I know one thing for sure: I love this stuff to bits!

A Masterpiece. Incarnata is Old Hollywood Glamour, specifically, it is Film Noir. While Lipstick Rose evokes Marilyn Monroe wearing a shimmery nude dress in "Some Like it Hot" while cooing "I wanna be loved by you", Incarnata is Joan Bennett on a stormy night, dressed all in black as "The Woman in the Window" in the 1944 gothic thriller. Dark, mysterious, glamorous, and entrancingly beautiful. Incarnata is described as a makeup accord of lipstick and vintage loose powder. Iris mingles with rose, powdery violet, and a touch of raspberry. At the base, rich amber, vanilla, benzoin and myrrh blend with suede to suggest cosmetics at the depths of an expensive handbag. Myrrh steals the show, lending an elegantly somber, introspective tone. The scent of waxy lipstick is photorealistic, conjuring the image of a femme fatale preparing for an evening out, seated at her elegant dressing table in a black lace robe, surrounded by dripping taper candles. Incarnata is beautiful in the winter. It would be perfect for a romantic date or an evening at home while watching old black and white movies. 10 out of 10 for scent, longevity, and projection. Incarnata is a sparkling jewel in my collection.

I cut my fraghead baby teeth on loud American fragrances from Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors in the nineties and early aughts, and we’re still very much living in an era where beast mode is the benchmark, so experiencing something as subtle as Incarnata feels like a relief. The restraint shown here feels intentional and considered. This is a scent that shines because of its softness, not despite it. To me it is equal parts powder, florals, fruit, and suede. The raspberry note is especially well done. It's juicy and noticeable without ever tipping into Sun-Ripened Raspberry territory. And even with the muted sillage, it does have great longevity - present on skin for a full work day and beyond. I'm working my way through a decant and will definitely buy a bottle (which I also love, btw - so chic.) Smells like: Carol Aird - lipstick, powder, and leather gloves Looks like: the soft pink haze of a midcentury starlet Sounds like: your favorite cover of "Moon River"

I love the smell of good quality lipstick. Something that is personal and very comforting. I had idea of bringing such smell into perfume, even started mixing ingredients, and then found this. It is about as perfect as it gets. When you spray it, you get this cold, fatty and waxy, slightly powdery aroma of true to life lipstick. It is vintage, elegant, with the hint of raspberry - very feminine in smell and feel. Dont break it down by notes, take it as a sum of all its parts. Just wonderful. Longevity wise, i had it on for about 4 hours from tiny swipe, it probably will last longer when sprayed. But even if it was just 10 minutes, it would still be worth it for me, even though i am really judgy on longevity. This tells how wonderful and dear this scent is to me. Recommend.

I just last evening finished up my sample of Incarnata. Yes, the notes listed (as of 12/11/15) are incorrect. Moodypaws has them as they should be in his review below. If you're looking for a strong, long-lasting, feminine scent, you've found her. Terrific makeup vibe. Lipstick and powder, pretty florals and a bit of fruit, deeper undertones. Excellent. Just placed my order for a FB today. 12/22/15 ETA: I've had my bottle for some days now. This is marvelous! If I were to have a signature scent, I think this might be it. Yes, it is quite powdery, but an interesting powdery, tinged with amber and a most incredible suede note. It keeps interest, as it morphs a bit while wearing. It is really not quite like anything else I've smelled. Very sensuous and alluring.

I’ve been trying to find an Orris, Violet fragrance that mimics the Vintage Avon lipstick fragrance from the 60’s & 70’s that my mother wore. A lipstick scent that stays constant from boudoir to suede evening bag. Incarnata is the closest I’ve found to meeting that need except it does change subtlety towards the end losing the main lipstick vibe. Incarnata has that much desired powdery, waxy "lipstick" heart, which eventually settles into a soft, amber-resin and suede finish. It is very feminine leaning fragrance that makes a bolder statement at the start smelling like honest to goodness Violet-Orris scented LIPSTICK!!! It’s soft & powdery, elegant, velvety (Orris-Suede), luxurious & sensual. Absolutely beautiful! I love it!

So, Incarnata . . . Yes, lovely powdery old school lipstick, waxy with a tinge of raspberry. This is soooo freshly applied, waxy, creamy lipstick and very little else. For me, the suede is soft and complimentary. I get the cool cold cream vibe as well, but perhaps the cinnamyl alcohol is giving some folks a minty vibe. Myself, I get a really background cinnamon. If you enjoy lipstick scents, this is most definitely a great choice. It is my first in the lipstick genre and I see no need to seek another as this is “ the lipstick scent”. Love this and could easily see this as a second signature. I find the sillage a bit better than average, and the longevity easily 8 hours. On my skin the waxiness stays throughout the wear.

Vivid, juicy, ripe, yellow pear. Velvety raspberry, more in texture than anything else, sweet and sour, not that far from black cherry. Slides into suede. Dark red rose. Greasy old school lipstick. Powdery, creamy, waxy. So good... Plush, comfy, the textures are just exquisite. Sensual, but without underlying funk like the one in Putain des Palaces that gives it unexpected human component. Incarnata feels lived in but not particularly naughty. It's still very sensual and thick, with more body than Lipstick Rose. The overall brightnes reminds me surprisingly of Cri de la Lumiere. It just might be my favorite.

SOTN-Incarnata by Anatole Lebreton 2015 She has already gone downstairs, yet the room continues to speak of her— A violet lipstick waits beneath the mirror’s glow, its color somewhere between twilight and memory. Soft kid leather gloves rest beside a golden compact, still carrying traces of powder, perfume, and secrets. Incarnata drifts through the room like a forgotten love letter— orris dust, rose petals pressed between pages, a whisper of raspberry, and the faint warmth of suede. Not youthful beauty, but practiced elegance. Not innocence, but grace. Only the memory remains—unfinished.

I've had this for a while now, so just a side note. I 'd normally not wear this during the warmer months of the year, due to the powderiness and suede. I 'm fine with this frag, sometimes crave the simplicity of lipstick/makeup. But here comes the twist: I had a bit of a workout today (6C outside). I went on with my normal business and smelled something like a creamy slightly spicy goodness. Who is it??? Clearly, it was Incarnata. So I suspect, it blooms more when the skin warms up. I'll try it springtime, early summer :)

yes...first I thought ...it was just too much, weird , just no. had a shower and forgot about it. An hour later I smelled something so inviting, so sensual and had to conclude that it is Incarnata which literally incarnated from decay into ethereal beauty. It has turned into a rich, raspberry-ambery-leathery seductress... Actually, this marvellous drydown brought back some memories from the vintage Balenciaga Rumba.

To me, this the ultimate "makeup/powder/old lipstick all thrown in an old leather purse" fragrance. It's got this vintage feel that others miss. The search is over. Bravo Anatole ! And yes, some of the notes are missing.

I get the impression of sweet cherry lipstick. I feel like I have smelled this before and it's a scent I enjoy. Reminds me of 1889 Moulin Rouge. -

Disclaimer: everything stated in this review is "to my nose"...you may get/have a completely different perception of this scent and others mentioned, so if you are interested in powdery and/or cosmetic-inspired scents, please do give Incarnata a try! I just didn't want to repeat this phrase throughout the whole review lol. The review: It is borderline vile! I do get lipstick waxiness smelling from the vial, but it disappears almost immediately after applying to the skin. I can't pick out any of the notes beyond the wax- no rose, iris, violet, vanilla, raspberry, etc. It simply smells like a putrid mentholated floral and remains that way throughout wear time. More toothpaste than lipstick. There is no sweetness whatsoever, nor can I detect any fruit. I thought it was a skin chemistry thing so I tested it on a paper strip and got the same result. I wouldn't call it a total dislike, but I am just not a fan. The waxiness is reminiscent of scents like Moulin Rouge, Lipstick On, and Ombre Mercure, but again, it fades wayyyyy too quickly, plus the supporting notes are not pleasant. On a side note, Lipstick Rose doesn't have this very particular waxiness, but it does have this aldehydic edge (which others may perceive as the wax). IIRC iris is not listed as a note for LR...iris usually lends that lipstick feel to me. Anyway, Incarnata does not resemble Lipstick Rose one bit, which LuckyScent compares it to in their description of the scent. Nor is it anything like Chanel Misia, Drole de Rose, or other rose-violet scents. Oddly enough, the one scent it does remind me of Amouage Fate, another scent that I thought I'd adore but didn't. Fate smells infinitely better though. I compared the two to validate the resemblance and was quite surprised. Fate is spicier and not minty, plus it lacks the wax. All in all, I was sorely disappointed by Incarnata, as a major makeup/cosmetic-inspired perfume fan. Though not my favorite, Moulin Rouge is the cream of the crop of the category IMO.

After hunting for a sample to no avail, I blind-bought a 10ml of Incarnata to satisfy my curiosity. It is a fascinating addition to the "lipstick" fragrance category, though it occupies a very different corner than the typical powdery-sweet scents. If you are looking for the more girly vibe found in Iris Crush, Lipstick On, or Lipstick Rose, this is not that. Incarnata is much moodier. It shares far more DNA with the "skankier" cosmetic profiles of Putain des Palaces, Angels Dust, and 1889 Moulin Rouge. It leans less toward "vanity table" and more toward "femme fatale" budoir. I caught a distinct, nostalgic whiff of those old-school cinnamon chewing gums. As it settles, it does pull a bit more bitter & medicinal on my skin than I personally prefer, which prevents it from being a "love" for me. I’m still coming to terms with the prominent resins and suede notes; this is a fragrance family I am not particularly well-acquainted with, so I’m holding out hope that I might learn to appreciate these nuances with more wear. I am truly glad I picked up a travel spray to test it properly. While it isn’t a fragrance I feel the need to own a full bottle of, I will certainly finish the 10ml. It has a sultry, nighttime quality that makes it a great choice for evening outings. Edit: Holy shit, I don't really layer fragrances but I tried this with Ciel for some added vanilla and sweetness and it made it much more lovely!

It is the wonderful smell of a childhood visit to my grandmothers vanity dresser. From the time we were old enough to walk, my sister and I were treated to a visit to this almost sacred space in the evening after we'd bathed. There, with her supervision, we'd be giggling, big puff powdering each other, and rummage around in her her everyday jewelry, scarves, pocketbooks, embroidered hankies (often gifts we'd made to her). What a wonderful gift to get to revisit those happy child times. She's 99 now and still enjoy scents, I think I'll decant this to a roller (arthritis of her hands) and send it to her. She still lives in the same house, and the dresser has never moved, and last I was there held fewer items, but still that smell is there. I didn't note the raspberry or lipstick scent at all; but found the powder, orris and light florals were nicely supported by the suede and amber base.

This is in the same vein as ELDO Putain des Palaces for me. I don't get a lipstick scent per se (not like in Lipstick Rose) but the lingering smells of make-up and perfumes in a messy and not very well-ventilated budoir come to mind. I say not well-ventilated because there is a distinct muskiness in Incarnata that makes me think of how one might smell after a moderate workout in a humid climate. Not in an odorous manner but rather erotic actually. The above listed notes of vanilla and amber do not do justice to Incarnata, in which the orris and suede stand out most prominently on my skin. A sweet heady incense and the sweaty muskiness as mentioned above. Sillage is soft and longevity moderate. Once my ELDO runs out I believe I will replace it with a bottle of Incarnata, the latter smells more human and the former more lab based.

Makeup-smelling perfumes, I must smell them all! This one is almost perfect; super suede-y opening melts into endless orris waxiness, surrounded by violet, rose and soft powderiness. Not the ordinary powder-monster, Incarnata smells very authentic lipstick and face cream. Very cool, cold almost. Rich lady after having a facial. Most importantly, it doesn't smell vintage like expected (or like MCG Burlesque), more contemporary (to me it has the same vibe as HdP Tubereuse 1, mostly for the leather/floral interpretation). Personally, it's almost perfect, except the suede note could last a bit longer and the raspberry note, too screetchy for this cool-waxy diva. The weird factor: rhododendron?

Amber and vanilla, Fragrantica? Below are the complete notes: Raspberry, Violet, Rhododendron Make-up Accord, Iris, Myrrh, Rose Amber, Suede, Benzoin, Vanilla. It is mainly a play between raspberry and iris, with the other characters playing supporting roles very discreetly. Very pleasant, deliciously retro, rather close to the skin but with enormous tenacity - over 12 hours on my skin. Although not normally concerned with gender discrimination, the evident lipstick/make-up vibe makes this more suited to the ladies in my opinion but lovely stuff nonetheless. It came as a free extra when I bought the sample set from Anatole, so thanks to the perfumer for the chance to smell this :)

It opens with a boudoir-style, powdery vintage lipstick scent. From there, it shifts from a stunning dusty iris to a dated floral blend. Rose and violet are the main culprits here. There’s also a soft touch of suede and a sweet, fruity undertone. Taken as a whole, the composition is, in my opinion, very well-executed. It reminded me of Estella, standing before a decayed bridal cake; like her old makeup bag, forgotten for years, dust-covered and filled with crumbling powders. The color of this scent is a dusty, faded rose. It’s as if snow-like powder has settled over everything. The roses have wilted. The violets are dead.

Powder bomb alert: Incarnata is a beautiful, complex lipstick and makeup bag scent. After the opening calms down I can detect a light fizzy raspberry note. There’s an herbal quality in the middle, but I’m not sure it’s mint as others have noted...and it leads me to believe the listed notes are complete. I like Incarnata quite a bit, and if I was a makeup bag fan I would want this scent. Feels like another quality offering from one of my favorite perfumers.

Made in France, it is a chic lipstick/makeup fragrance. I can smell iris, face powder and a touch of amber. For powdery lovers! Very feminine, you are in a boudoir where the powdery and creamy scent of rouge sticks and blushes intermingle... A little French vintage scent. More for fall and winter. 7/10 --> Same vibe of Athalia by Parfums de Marly, Lipstick Rose by Malle, Vermeil by Bien aimé, "Lipstick fever" by Juliette has a gun (without ambroxan), etc.

The opening is overwhelmingly waxy lipstick, thick and dense, but it doesn’t prevail throughout this juice’s journey. If that initial hit remained a little longer, I’d vote it the best lipstick scent going. But it doesn’t, it becomes a shadow of itself quite quickly, morphs into a light powdery skin scent with a truculent sour note, the dry down bearing no resemblance to the opening. The search continues.

So my original review was deleted for some reason but i will state it again, this does smell like lipstick to me, but in the strange way. Quite stale smelling and in the dry down all i got was sour waxiness. edit: trying it again and i am enjoying it a bit more, its thicker and sweeter this time, still overwhelming and gets stuck in my throat, but interesting for sure. I can't stop sniffing my hand.

JESUS CHRIST, the first whiff of this conjures images of a frantic noblewoman in a ridiculously huge wig powdered to hell with cocaine, subsisting on a diet of her own supply and raspberry liqueur. As she struts around the stuff gets everywhere, on the floor, in the air, you can taste it in your mouth just by being in the same room! She is however rather lovely.

This reminds me of a more powdery version (and less cherry) of Rouge Smoking. I am getting red vines again (in that licorice, cola, berry way). It's ambery, spicey, powdery red vines. It's fun.

Make-up mascara face mask, matte brick orange lipstick and powder from the past - a slightly oily waxy fragrance with rose, which has taken a second wind and escaped present imitations. It goes its own way, although retro, it does not fall into the fragrances from the era of our grandmothers, it is only strongly inspired by the atmosphere of the period to bring old lovers a new breath from these faded corners and the opportunity to buy something purposely dated for our perfume wardrobe. Do not expect modern conveniences, this is sewn according to old era recipes. Even if the initial hour may seem like rare white skin, then the scent falls into an bygone rose perfume, which you have certainly smelled somewhere. It is not bad, although as a non-lover of rose scents I would like it to still smell only like it does during the first hour.

One of the biggest faults I have as a human is that I try to describe stuff not only what it is like, but also the impact it has on me. So here goes -- this feels to me what I imagine New Sibet feels like to people. There's something in New Sibet that I JUST CAN'T handle, and I don't know what it is. I'm sure that what I smell in Incarnata is what other people smell in New Sibet. Other people don't pick up that wet acrylic sweater accord that I do, and I'm sure what they get is what I'm getting now out of Incarnata. Still a little too plastic, but plenty lipsticky, I'm not sure that this one is gonna work, but I'll give it one or two more goes just to me sure... Sometimes, you know, the first half an hour is meh, and then it becomes amazing. I'm happy to wait...

Okay, back again for the LAST time on this scent... Yes, it's a Sibet iris in this, working with a meek violet, but there is also a mid-level metallic screechy element, which, whilst held in check for the most part, is still THERE, and it really doesn't belong, it's too much and I wish it was a lot less potent than it is. Additionally, the leathery-suede really does not add anything good to this scent. I hate to be so outward in this, but it's the truth. This is one of the few times I will say that I wish the perfumer added some white floral to an iris-violet scent. It's a no from me...

In my quest for lipstick perfumes, this one really stood out! I don't like it as much as Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose or the Sixteen92 Lipstick Accord, but it's pretty photorealistic. There's just something a bit bitter about this one that I don't love on my skin, but it smells nice on paper. It leans more into the raspberry than the others I've tried, and there's an obvious resin/olibanum note that sets it apart.

I get a sweet, fruity rose with metallic notes that become more prominent as the scent progresses. The first few hours were quite pleasant, but then that metallic note creeps in, unfortunately... ***EDIT*** OMG the drydown is HEAVEN. A candied, sweet floral with powdery suede -- YES.

Upon spray, I I get a full cosmetic lipstick purple flower that immediately gives me bathroom powder and makeup bag. Underneath the powder, there’s a warm nuance that reads like olive flesh or olive pit. Interesting but not for me.

I can't agree more with @goldeneraglamor! I get powder and lipstick, as well as a mere innuendo of raspberry, only in the first several seconds, literally just seconds, and then Incarnata turns into a freakish herbal, minty perfume. I believe it contains angelica, as I loath the scent of angelica, yet I am quite sure it's there. I think there is ambrette too, which gives it a vegetal muskiness. The myrrh that I detect in the heart is opoponax, commonly called sweet myrrh. If you are worried that Incarnata will smell like church incense because you saw myrrh in the notes, don't worry. It is not incency or churchy in the least. Sweet myrrh is not the bitter myrrh that is burned in church. In the drydown, the mint dissipates (thank Heavens. I like mint, but I don't like it in this perfume). The base reveals a smooth, balsamic benzoin, which is quite beautiful. As for suede, well, let's just say that if I did not see the notes ahead of time I never would have guessed there was any suede in it, but I do notice it when I actually try to notice it. I like this perfume, it's certainly very unique, but if you are looking for a makeup/lipstick scent with lots of raspberry and creaminess, I would suggest Lipstick On. Sillage is low to average, and longevity is a few hours. It is frustrating that longevity is so short because I don't like the minty, angelica heart phase, and if I touch up, I have to endure it all over again. Bottom line? Incarnata is not my perfect makeup/lipstick perfume, but I appreciate it anyway. I see it as a casual, feminine fragrance. Think Chanel goes "boho". If only they could remove the heart notes....

@Vampurr 's review below is spot on. This fragrance is a cosmetic powder aroma, also reminiscent of lipstick and really all products a lady might use when getting ready- but it's not sweet and girlish. It's more mature and old fashioned feeling. The myrrh gives it an 'antique' feel. If you research about lipstick/cosmetics accord perfumes, this is one of the ones that you will repeatedly see suggested, which is why i tried it. Like @vampurr stated, there seems to be two types of these- the sweet, girlish ones, and the mature, antique, skanky ones. As a fan of the former, I did not enjoy Incarnata.

Oo0o! At the first sniff I have an aroma of pickled pitted green olives :-) When this recedes, I have cocoa butter, dolls, vintage purple vibe, oily and moisturizing face creams, playful raspberry fruity. It settles into a warm, waxy magenta lipstick, then softer and woody than iris and powder all around. A lipstick absolute with a floral boost of roses. On the skin I have a sweet base, a medicinal, dense, powerful thread, together with a dirty and worn chamois. Monothematic, driven and ... rude.

Hoo baby this is a lipstick violet. Strongly powdery and creamy and pastel-toned, like old-fashioned cosmetics. It’s a type of scent I find hard to take, in any form, even its original source Apres L'Ondee. There’s a hint of that same crisp apple/rose note hidden within Fleur Cachee, but otherwise it’s exactly like every other lipstick/powder froufrou scent. Within an hour the violet has faded substantially and it’s just soft, pale powder, a bit mellowed; pale beige rather than pale purple.

The unmistakeable smell of suede assails my nostrils. Very animal. I'm sure the orris underlines this impression. I can see what others mean about an old rancid waxy lipstick/cosmetic smell. I then detect the powderiness along with violet and rose. There is barely any sweetness and if there is vanilla in here I can't pick up on it. Sorry but this is not for me.

Rimmel lipstick from the 90’s but way more complex. After a while, a random mint note pops in and then back out again. I appreciate how detailed it is, some major work has gone into this. It smells like: someone from the 90’s wearing dark brown/red Rimmel lipstick, who’s just brushed her teeth and she’s talking to you close-up whilst eating carrot sticks.

The waxiness is too much in this fragrance. I feel like I applied a crayola crayon on myself instead of a perfume. It does lighten up after an hour, but by that time I am done with this fragrance. Big fail after 3 attempts with this sample. I'm thankful that it is finished and that I didn't waste money buying this.

Perfumes that smell like lipstick have a special appeal. For some they are nostalgic, for others they are a femme fetish. When combined, violet, iris root and rose replicate the swirl of freshly applied lipstick. Musks, vanilla, sweet woods and resins bridge the florals to the cold, powdery waxiness that defines lipstick’s olfactory ‘feel.’ A lipstick ‘note’ has been common to many perfumes since the early 2000s when new, less expensive iris materials came online, even sneaking its way into masculine and ‘unisex’ perfumes like Dior Homme and Histoire de Parfums 1889. Previously, lipstick scents had been the province of girly florals like Yves St. Laurent Paris and l’Artisan Parfumeurs Drole de Rose. Incarnata follows in the line of a few other lipstick perfumes, namely ELDO Putain des Palaces, Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose and Chanel Misia, but it doesn’t copy them. Incarnata reaches past scent and finds the cold, creamy texture of lipstick. Compared to Incarnata, most ‘lipstick’ perfumes come off as basic variations on the mixed floral. Incarnata is lipsticky from stem to stern, even in the basenotes, by which point most lipstick fragrances struggle to maintain the freshly applied appearance that they had out of the bottle. Floral notes have been used to mask the scent of wax and cosmetic cream. They keep lipstick from smelling like crayons. Incarnata doesn’t mask anything. It smells like a complete vintage dressing table set with lipstick, face powder and cold cream. The scent of lipstick brings to mind a particular range of color. Putain and Lipstick Rose land squarely in the pink/red spectrum. Even perfumes with a minor lipstick note, such as Guerlain Nahema and Chanel 18 tend to have traces of the same hues. Incarnata takes Chanel Misia’s grey-pink a step further with a cyanotic grey tone that implies a cool temperature as well as a cool palate. The papery iris topnote segues believably into the suede heart and waxy base and give Incarnata its frosty edge. A friend’s grandmother had an endearing habit of touching up her lipstick as she’d head out the door. She’d flash us a girlishly conspiratorial look through the mirror as if she were tossing down a big sip of a martini and say, “Can’t face the world without lipstick now, can we?” She would have loved Incarnata. from scenthurdle.com

This is a comparative review between Incarnata and Lipstick Rose The theme is clear: lipstick and purse. In a genderful inclusive perspective, for those who feel like a woman, lipstick and purse are a way of dressing up for seduction; for those who feel like a man, they are the kiss of a woman: lover, mama, gramma..depending on the generation. Care to know where Lipstick Rose and Incarnata differ? Well, the structure is almost the same: a fruity accord mixed with powdery notes to evoke the lipstick; the floral heart (manly rose and ionones), and an ambery-vanillin base. While, Lipstick Rose is a little mossy in the drydown with soft musky tones, Incarnata commands yout attention with an extremely well executed note of myrrh and a comforting enveloping sude accord in the ultimate drydown. Those who grew up in the '80s would rememebr the magnificent TV series Dynasty (1981-1989). The saga was about the vicissitudes of the Carringtons, a very rich family. In the show, Alexis Colby - played by Joan Collins and Sammy Jo - played by Heather Locklear - Carrington (Krystle's niece) had a famously antagonistic but complex relationship, marked by rivalry for Steven Carrington (Alexis's son, Sammy Jo's husband) and constant power plays, leading to iconic catfights and verbal sparring over family control, money, and - above all - Steven. Well, the exuberant, young, over-the top, and immature Sammy Jo would wear Lipstick Rose; the British aplomb incarnation, self-assured, elegant and classy Alexis would wear Incarnata. I insist that Anatole's ingenuity is to include a myrrh accord that makes Incarnata elegantly somber. To conclude...for those who feel like Steven, whose lipstick kiss would you more gladly passively receive? Mama Alexis's or younger Sammy Jo's? Follow me on IG @alexolympia6

The ultimate lipstick fragrance. Think of how lipstick smells - would you enjoy smelling like that? Your answer to that question will inform most of how much you enjoy this fragrance. Most of the contrast in this fragrance is between a dense, pasty iris and a slightly fermented, unsweetened raspberry, with hefty dose of wax. Though I love them both, Misia and Lipstick Rose are prettified abstractions next to this: there's a certain roughness to the treatment of the softer, more floral smells that brings to mind Rozy VdE, but this is nothing so big and heavy, merely "thick" smelling. There is a soft leather note that rises up in the drydown, but it's only apparent after some hours: it's that plush leather, somewhat similar to Cuir Ottoman. The overall impression is strangely unedited and lived-in, and is a welcome change from the very rote and polished niche releases of late, without being too indie. Best thing I've smelled in 2016 so far.

I bought this one blind because the price was too good to pass up. I have been looking for that elusive vintage lipstick scent. My grandmother used to wear a red lipstick that you could smell when she came in for a big hug, and I used to raid her vanity drawer just so I could sniff the tube. Well, this does have that vintage waxy lipstick smell and so far it's the closest I've come to that scent memory. However, there is something in this that doesn't smell right. I'd say it's the note that has other reviewers calling "sour". For me, the image it evokes is of 18th century women, who often didn't bathe for over a week, powdered and perfumed within an inch of their lives, but not nearly enough to cover the scent of old sweat. Sadly, that note gets stronger as it dries down. I'll test again a few more times, since it comes with a sample vial, but if that note persists, it's going to have to be goodbye.

A powder powerhouse. The first blast is very compact powder with an old-school floral note and honey, the latter apparently from Rhododendron. The raspberry is an absolutely tart one instead of sweet or fruity, so the perfume also has a tartness to it rather than sweet-powderiness. If I sniff the perfume closely I also get a tinge of myrrh smoke. Unfortunately not only is the dry down of Incarnata very flat on me but it also progressively turns MINTY. I'm scratching my head wondering why, but there you go. 4 hours in and I still don't detect any suede or leather. Minty powder is really not my thing, so this to me is unwearable. However it is quite different from other makeup-powder perfumes I've smelled, and indeed is an interesting olfactive experience. Bottom line: worth my sample money, but very far from moving me to get a full bottle.

Since I am a big fan of powdery scents, Incarnata was a wonderful discovery for me. The particular thing is that it is not only orris powder. I find that there are 3 dominant notes that gives this fragrance smooth, gentle and powdery scent: orris root, violet leaf and powder itself. The raspberry is blended into it just perfectly. It's not load yet noticeable and makes the scent really pop! Incarnata is quite complex, so even though the other notes are less dominant, they provide depth. All in all this is a very harmonius blend. Incarnata is unique and should be on the list of lovers of powdery perfumes:)I'll probably make it my signature scent. The quality+longevity are also superb. PS. I don't get a make-up vibe and that's good!

Very sophisticated, high-quality smelling take on the cosmetics bag perfume. Unlike Moulin Rouge Histoires de Parfum or Lipstick On Maison Martin Margiela, the waxy/powdery iris lipstick/facepowder accord is dominant and long lasting here with just the smallest trace of fruit from raspberry (the others are the inverse with more fruity notes than iris). So you have to love the rather grown-up smell of orris and all of it's strange associations to enjoy Incarnata. This is not a young girl's perfume but rather a feminine adult woman's. It goes through a rather soapy mid-phase that I don't love but the eventual drydown is very nice with a subtle animalic undertone of leather and amber. I'm very impressed by this.

Day 2 of sampling Anatole Lebreton. Today was Incarnata's turn: Indeed, it is a powdery lipstick scent (not my cup of tea). I was not able to detect any raspberry at the start or throughout - it's a pity as I would have liked a bit of tartness. At the beginning, the lipstick element was very strong and even a little plasticky. Around the 4th hour mark, though, suede started coming through in a major way and I did enjoy that part more. I spent the next two hours smelling my arm. Longevity is ok, but it did turn fairly quickly to a skin scent on me. All in all, it's a meh for me (I prefer the queen Teint de Neige for powder) , but I would recommend it to make up/lipstick scent lovers.

Nope, not only amber and vanilla! I smell addiction, i smell Iris, violet, and leather. Slight roses and powdery dusty note as well. I can sense something similar in "Iri-del" by Nomenclature with allot of concrete gray white wall! Oh my.. now i find it, it is the smell of a collapsing house! a destructive area, it's like the smell of the city that Thomas and his friends were running into getting away from Janson in "The Maze Runner 2: The Death Cure", Wild, Sunny, and amazingly fresh breeze with allot of concrete walls. It is weird I know :D I guess Anatole now captured my senses at max and i guess he'll become my favorite perfumer.