Pnoi (Πνοή)

It seems important to have my reaction on every platform I can. This fragrance is outstanding. Yes, it is complex. There are over 250 notes in this composition. But that's one of the reasons why I love it. Every time you shift your head, you pick up on a different note. Those notes are not disjointed either. These notes are like an orchestra. All have a job to do in creating a symphony of smell. And at 23% pure perfume oil, the fragrance is orchestrating quite proudly at full potential. Before I researched Pnoi, I thought it had something to do with the island of the Philippines. I was very wrong like usual. Pnoi is a Greek word with multiple translations. All having a synonym to space or air. I assume because of over 27 translations to Pnoi, there are no mistakes when it comes to artistic interpretation and emotional response. My emotional response is very strong with this one with no distinct reason as to why.

Pnoi is Angelos Balamis’ symphony. It builds on the foundations of a traditional leather chypre—bergamot and neroli in the top, a floral heart of buttery orris and indolic jasmine, a deep earthy leathery base—weaving them together with sweet notes of honey, beeswax, mimosa and hay, and capping it off with a striking, powdery violet. The notes listing for Pnoi is head-spinningly long (267 raw materials apparently went into it), yet like in a symphony, everything is playing in concert, nothing out of place. The combined effect is a towering dome of light and airiness and colour, that bowls me over with its majesty and beauty.

I am writing a review right now. Just put it on. I have to say this now. Holy crap. This is fucking awesome.

It is funny that this came out the same season as Epona--the horsey leather accord they share is, indeed, quite similar. It's a beautiful leather with some nice tarry aspects atop violety ionones and orrisey materials. This is lovely, but I prefer Epona which has what I perceive to be a more hay/narcisssus note that conjures a clearer "sense image" in my mind.

Having seen comparisons to Papillon’s Epona, I ordered a decant. Epona was lovely, but its performance was rather weak, so I didn’t go for a full bottle. This one, by contrast, performs quite well. It’s pleasant, but the similarity is negligible. Unfortunately, despite several notes that really appealed to me; star anise, carnation, narcissus, benzoin. Hedione makes its presence strongly felt from the very start. For me, this keeps the fragrance smelling somewhat dated and overly feminine for a good three to four hours, and that’s coming from someone who is quite familiar with vintage perfumes. My wife hated it. Only after the fourth hour does that wonderful Mousse de Saxe accord bring a sense of freshness and refinement, joined by touches of leather and sandalwood, finally making me think, “now it works.” By then, however, it has already become a skin scent. Sadly, the opening hours are not something I can put up with. I’ve given it to my 82-year-old mother; she’ll finish it. My Papillon Dryad is more than enough for me.

Just reviewed a sample as part of my order and tried this first. It is EXQUISITE!! Proper perfume, beautifully crafted with the highest quality ingredients. I’m SO happy.....I was beginning to despair of finding good quality perfume in 2026 as I’m so appalled by the dross on the market today. The review below by Marionette is perfect. I cannot do better but just had to say that this is worth every penny!! Thank you Mr Balamis!!❤️❤️❤️

I just did my second wearing of this new fragrance from this fantastic Greek perfumer. Wow. I can not believe this hasn’t gotten more hype. It must be because it’s so hard to describe correctly. There’s a lot going on. It’s green and soapy and violet-candied in a neoclassical way but smells like something new. The concentration is fairly high but the scent has a light and spacious feeling. What a genius composition.