New Suede

This New Suede is a most strange thing to smell. Mostly you feel transparent moist beginning of bergamote and neroli with rosewood, then it starts to swirl – all flowers and clary sage and cardamom and all of a sudden bitter almond (where from??). When all this spinning stops it’s mostly some sort of cool and almost humid suede, made of tonka beans, cinnamon (where from, again???) wood and loban (choya loban – a product of destructive distillation of olibanum, roughly – incense tar, it’s smell is burnt and warm and extremely pleasant). This suede is bitterish and it sharply smells of remnants of tannic chemicals. It is soft and remote, warms up a bit but still remains distant and indiffirent. It looks a bit like Lutens’ Daim Blond – long fingers, “pencil” skirt, cold heart. But sometimes (and these scarse times are my favourite) after the moist beginning, like some sort of mobile sculpture forming in it’s movement a certain shape seen from only the one precise point, - from all these spices and wood and flowers shapes out a hedgegrow of flowerig hawthorn in the cold wind. These bushes are all covered with white fragrant flowers. They grow all along the railway platforms streched out from Peterhoff to Oranienbaum, and shuttle trains drag this hawthorn’s ghostly bitterish smell along into the city through moist and cool spring air. I’ve seen such effect before, namely in Fahrenheit aftershave, but it was seems like ages ago – a couple of years after the Fahrenheit has been released. Since that time poor Fahrenheit has been deconstructed and reconstructed so many times that sometimes it’s hard to recognize his dear face. And eventually that marvellous note of aubepine has either vanished (or removed by IFRA recomendation??) or maybe I has become anosmic to it, hard to say, anyway I don’t feel it there anymore. That’s why this scarse hawthorn movement in New Suede makes it so precious to me, that is why I try it again and again.