Orris Soyeux

I smelled this at Stéle in New York and wasn’t entirely sure what to make of it. But it stayed with me. I kept thinking about it after I got home, which is ultimately why I had to buy a bottle. There’s something almost fizzy about the opening to me, like tonic water. The patchouli feels green and lifted rather than dark or earthy. The orris feels young, almost not fully developed, and the leather is pale, soft, almost white. At the same time, there’s something distinctly vintage running through it that I can’t quite place. The aldehydes and ambroxan seem to keep everything suspended, lifted and strangely separated rather than allowing the notes to melt comfortably into one another. It’s confusing, but I think that tension is exactly what makes it so compelling. Someone described Orris Soyeux as “sad,” and I understand that completely. There’s a melancholy to it. Edit: This fragrance stands still on paper but evolves on skin. They’re almost two completely different perfumes, in my opinion. On paper, I wasn’t sure I even liked it. On skin, I do. Very much.

Orris Soyeux by Annindriya x Francesca Bianchi is a retake of Cuir Soyeux (2019). Cuir Soyeux was a limited edition released for Perfume Lounge’s 10th anniversary. Orris Soyeux a refined version, sharing the heart and spirit of its predecessor but with a more mature top and base. The powdery orris note takes center stage, with a touch more patchouli.

something about this fragrance smells like a lasting sadness. it smells like what i imagine franz kafka or vincent van gogh would smell like. it also reminds me of abstract art. i find it somewhat reminds me of habit rouge spirit due to the iris patchouli combination however this is more elegant and wearable.

Just as I remember it. Flush of dark leather and powdery iris cloud. Deep and seductive. I was lucky enough to know the original anniversary edition and they are close upon side by side comparison. Really marvellous work from mademoiselle Bianchi

Very nice. The orris really stands out, but there is also something bittersweet and oddly fresh running through it, almost like a bitter orange-patchouli effect. Perhaps that comes from the narcissus? I’m not sure. What surprises me most is that this does not feel like an extremely recognisable Francesca Bianchi DNA scent. I usually associate her work with darker, more leathery and animalic compositions, but there is none of that here. Instead, this feels softer, cleaner and more luminous. The orris root and heliotrope give it a lovely powdery elegance, while the patchouli, labdanum and ambroxan add structure without making it heavy or outdated. The aldehydes, bergamot and magnolia bring a fresh and sweet polished lift. Well blended! I think its a refined and slightly unexpected take on orris: elegant, bittersweet, fresh around the edges, and far less shadowy than I expected. Actually like this one! Would I buy a full bottle? Maybe even so! It's a bit odd, definitely different and actually quite addictive to my nose. Unisex for sure.