Plumeria de Orris

This is a primarily orris driven scent as the name would suggest with touches of other notes such as apricot and frangipani, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla, and myrrh. It is fresh and bright in the opening with slight tropical nuances, but the focus is mainly on the orris, which is slightly clean and powdery, but never chalky or that overly lipstick or rooty vibe that this note often has. It has a very vintage feeling without seeming 'old' or geriatric in any way, in fact I find it exciting and fun to wear. It is an easier wear than Pikovaya Dana, another vintage-inspired orris scent, and no as grandiose as Roja's Pierre De Velay 23, which has a similar Channel #5 vibe with an animal base, but skews much more extroverted and showy. It is also more complex and satisfying that Xerjoff Apollonia, a minimalistic 'white scent' with heavy lipstick orris and white florals. This one is pure class, that brings to mind great actresses from the Golden era on beautiful summer nights. The elephant in the room is the civet, which is also featured in Pierre de Velay 23, and here it is a little more prominent but instead of creating some kind of harsh contrast it lifts the scent up and gives it a beautiful golden glow as if all the notes are hovering in space around you. I think without the civet it would have risked being too much like Apollonia, and indeed it does smell like Apollonia on paper! But on skin all the deeper notes come alive and embrace the composition in a magical cloud. On this note I am experimenting with Royal Barn and am surprised to see the same thing, ie the civet, far from making the scent challenging, elevates and frames the composition, making individual notes hang there in space and unifying the different stages and levels of the fragrances development. This is a welcome and new addition to my Areej Le Dore collection I was lucky to find on eBay, completely unopened for a reasonable price. Classy juice, sexy juice, fun juice, ticks all the boxes for warmer weather wear in office or on a date, male or female. A class leading orris without question!

Finally...I hate being so broadly negative about a great brand which has captured the imagination of perfumistas and a perfumer that respect hugely for his commitment to quality and respect for materials. All incredibly admirable, so it's nice when I actually think the end product is excellently crafted and wearable perfume. I think I'm in a stage of liking soft 'pretty' things at present and Plumeria de Orris is the closest thing to pretty on the AlD agenda for this collection. I'm also a little ashamed that none of the heavier oud or leather fragrances were doing anything for me, because I seriously like that stuff, normally. I actually thought that premiering Orris as a material was a little 'French' or whatever for AlD and Adam but this is a delight! The opening has that exotic, fruity floral but it's tamed by a mildly vegetal odour for a brief time a Really powdery drydown giving a buttery, sweet leather facet of Orris root. It is floral throughout but doesn't have as characteristic frangipani as some of the Bortnikoff's for example, although I totally get how that material is in here. The clever part is that it's clearly driven by the same animal core that all of these have but it's not too apparent until it's well and truly dired down, like past 10-12 hours. This speaks to a deft touch by adam in using Castor and/or civet replacer in this because it does exactly what it should, mild background duties and twined with the orris and florals, gives a perfectly light but still animalic muskiness. I thought it was excellent.

I’ve been wearing Plumeria de Orris by Areej Le Doré from a sample. I’m really really really liking this one. And that’s putting it mildly. It starts all fuzzy and powdery dusty, with a hint of apricot, not too much (I don’t like fruit salads in my fragrances), then in the next stage the civet shows its colours, but gently, not stinky at all. It’s beautiful. I’m a big fan of Guerlain, especially the classics (with the exception of Mitsouko, she and I just don’t get along). Now this is my personal opinion, but Plumeria de Orris almost feels like Mitsouko’s peach went dipping into L’Heure Bleue, which in the later stage gets intimate with Vol de Nuit. It is like a perfectly balanced blend of these amazing classics. Juicy in the top, with gorgeous orris, then there’s the vanilla and sandalwood adding to that “dusty velvet curtains” feeling I absolutely dig. It’s been a while since I’ve had a “love at first sniff” moment but this fragrance is haunting me. I’m contemplating buying a bottle, but, and here’s the big but, it doesn’t last on my perfume eating skin. After only a few hours I have to press my nose to my arm to smell it. I have maybe 1-2 wearings left in my sample. Mmmm. I’m adding it to my wish list and ponder some more. But damn do I love and want it. LOL.

Beautiful Powder Have you come across a fragrance that you recognized as quality but you didn't instantly love it? What about one that you then realized wasn't your "style" but you knew it could stretch you, even train you, take you on a different journey; one where you weren't in control. This is what this fragrance is doing for me. I have owned it for some time and finally ready to communicate my thoughts. I now rank it very highly and indeed it is a masterpiece but I recognize it is not for everyone and can lean feminine. The quality is undeniable and the presentation is pure luxury. Areej is a mastermind, unique brand and smell and there is a reason the prices skyrocket in the aftermarket. By design, they are not mass appealing and in there is where I discovered my challenge. I accepted it and finally appreciate the natural luxury of this beautiful flower scent. Russian Adam distilled many frangipani and orris and contains mostly natural. I get a unique nutty, powdery aroma with very little citrus and sweetness.It smells like nothing else in my collection and can be layered quite effectively to be more appealing to your palate. 4.24/5

Now a days we can rarely find plumeria trees, I remember we had a plumeria trees in my home when I was 15, mixing with Plumeria, frangipani and orris butter reminiscence the moment I used play or walk under that tree. A unique fragrance where you can detect the opening notes with plumeria and orris with a slight hint of apricot and powdery. As we move into the base notes you can smell a slight resinous myrhh which does become stronger though this does not diminish the flowery fruity orris glazed in honey and sandal wood accord. Also you can smell a very slight synthetic animalic civet note but it will play hide and seek. I would say its slightly lean towards feminine but unisex can be an appropriate state in my honest opinion. Not a beast in term of silage but I get longevity 8+ hours. Definitely a crowd pleasing and worth to wear on a sunny day. The most underrated release from 5th collection, probably the popularity of War and Peace has been eroded this great composition.

This is the best, most wearable, and most stable (in terms of blending) out of the four new releases. The plumeria is of very high quality and it is less complex than the other 3 releases. I feel that it is more unisex, rather than feminine, I don't get any powderiness from it whatsoever. It has a lovely apricot accord (which I love) and has a creamy, smooth butteriness to it. The vanilla, sandalwood, orris root all come together beautifully to envelop you like a warm cosy blanket. The civet is very much in the background and as a nice animalic touch to it. I didn't get much myrrh or cedarwood, the main player is definitely the frangipani. Projection is moderate with excellent longevity.

So lovely! This feels like a more accessible version of the themes introduced in Koh-i-Noor--sumptuous florals, musk, fruitiness. A kind of contemporary chypre. The apricot, iris, sandalwood, and musk are most noticeable to me. There is a honeyed sweetness that pervades the scent in general. I'd be interested to smell this as an attar. Lovely and surprisingly unisex in my opinion.

Gorgeous, voluptuous perfume. This feels like vintage French perfumery, classic, powdery and expertly blended, no single note dominates. Underlying the buttery florals is a bit of funk—in the most delightful, sexy way imagined. Not a beastly projector, but your presence will be noted. Would love to come upon a used bottle.

Ottima fragranza floreale, ottengo costantemente 24 ore di longevità con un ottimo Sillage. Sicuramente consigliate per gli amanti del genere floreale, per gli altri invece potrebbe esserlo eccessivamente. La trovo unisex anche se molti affermano che si affacci più al lato femminile. Voto complessivo: 8.5/10

This is a dirty floral. The golden civet covers the plumeria and orris. Its a rich, lush experience. I personally love animalic florals. I think he used osmanthus for the apricot facet. Its grounded by a rich heavy base. Its beautiful, and I wonder if a bottle is still available

I remember wearing it on the time solar eclipse was taking place. It completely matched the occasion. Its powdery sweet and musky (aphrodisiac like ) smell in the base which linger on the clothes for many days. Simply once in a way like the eclipse 🌗

My first from ALD! What a beautiful powdery, floral scent topped up with the magic of civet. Very opulent and occasional scent that will roll down the red carpets!

A friend sent me a sample because she knows I love frangipanni flower but this perfume is nothing like Frangipanni. It’s the nastiest most revolting smell I’ve smelt in a long time. I could not wash it off fast enough. It’s just AWFUL.

I love this one, if anyone has a bottle to sell, please message me

Out of the 5th collection i only got the W&P and Antiquity. Plumerial always looked very good but i never made a purchase. Long time after i bought a sample as curiosity got me. When i first sprayed Plumeria, i was a bit confused, since i am very familiar with the smell. Decided to give q few days for it to settle off the road and wearing it again. 2nd wear - same thought: Plumeria is the flowery heart of Cuir de Russie from the 6th collection. If you remove some animalic notes, birchtar, leather(which people say exist but i get none) you will get the thick, golden yellow, flowery perfume. Plumeria is not a fresh one, as sandalwood is very dense and apparent as a buttery effect. Its not orris obvious either, as flowers and apricot and civet are more upfront and powerful. Powdery to an extent, but its faaar from being a powderbomb. Overall its good, but not something to actively seek out or pay extra for. Get CdR instead and you wont loose anything.

A nice but somewhat unoriginal floral musk from Areej Le Dore. The perfume opens with notes of frangipani and orris with a slight hint of apricot. It settles into a heart of sandalwood, vanilla and synthetic civet musk. As it dries off, slight elements of incense, vetiver and cedar are discerned. Slight feminine leaning mostly natural perfume with moderate to strong projection and very good longevity. Overall it is a pleasant scent but far from the best this line has made. For better floral musks from this line please try Flux De Fleur or Koh-I-Noor. Enjoy!

What I get from this is a flowery fruity orris glazed in honey scent accord. The exotic flower is the Plumeria, the fruity aspect is coming from the apricot and orris is the powdery violet tinged note. It is light and beautiful and does lean towards the feminine spectrum but not so much that a man cannot pull off wearing this. But then it all depends on what your threshold is and where you draw the line. There is a vanilla sweetness to the scent and when after a few hours the Sandalwood appears the scent starts to smell better and better. The Sandalwood seems to ground the scent and give it more body whilst making it more unisex. As we move into the basenotes you can smell a slight resinous myrhh which does become stronger though this does not diminish the flowery fruity orris glazed in honey accord. Also now and again you can smell a very slight animalic civet note but it comes and goes very quickly. It adds a slight animalic tinge. Now the longevity is good with this lasting more than ten hours but the projection is about average. I like this though I do feel that the orris dominates everything else and drowns out the Plumeria accord for a lot of the time. When it does show it self it smells very lovely!

It hurts when a certain fragrance, having no weight to it, gets so hyped that the prices shoot up and a fragrance that is as unique as Plumeria de Orris (PDO) remains underrated for no good reason. In a way, it is good that it remained underrated, otherwise i would have to pay premium to get my hands on one of the most beautiful and eccentric floral fragrance out there. As the name suggests, PDO is all about the exotic flower of Plumeria a.k.a. Frangipani. Along with aprcot, it creates a beautiful powdery accord. But its is the note of Civet, that gives this concoction an edge, a characteristic of raw power amidst the floral nature of the fragrance. Plumeria de Orris is a lover letter to the fragrances of the past when women were not shy of wearing animalic chypres and florals. Performance on skin as well as on clothes is outstanding with moderate to good projection in initial hours. This is not only one of my favorite ALD's but also one of my favorites of all time.

ALD mentions Walimah as his proudest flower fall achievement, and while I don’t disagree, Plumeria de Orris comes awfully close to stealing that title in my opinion. The frangipani is a photo-realistic representation of a Singapore Plumeria in full bloom. While the sweet softness of the supporting notes in this formulation add to the plush luxury of the olfactory experience, vetiver and civet root the composition securely to the earthen accords that allow this fragrance to hug onto the wearer like an invisible puffy jacket. For me vanilla does not register as a feminine vibe, so to my nose this is a unisex floral masterpiece. For the manliest man or the most feminine woman who loves to feel beautifully fresh And natural, this is an absolute winner!

Much like War and Peace I think this is a beautiful fragrance, but to my nose this one is more suitable for a woman. It's not completely feminine but it's more feminine leaning outside of unisex for my tastes. Opening is good but the drydown gets this really nice earthy component to it, perhaps that's the Vetiver. I think if you connect with this stage you’ll really enjoy this.

the opening is quite pleasant, but a few hours in it turns into a dense, sticky mess. i've grown plumerias (frangipanis) for over 15 years, and the plumeria scent is true and authentic, but it's overshadowed but that dense, stank-ass peach. it's too much...

One of the best Iris I've smelled (ever). 10/10 maybe 11/10 for iris lovers.

@ RottigrlNYC Please, describe it. Awful how? Like what?