Nanban

Wow. Arquiste continues to impress me every time I try something new from them. Nanban opens a little bit sharp and strong, but not in an off-putting way—at least to my nose. It quickly mellows out into a dry, smoky, animalic incense but it doesn't smell like most of the perfumes that are usually described that way. The smoke is not of the fireplace variety. It is more pleasant, ashy, and earthy. It reminds me of walking around Kathmandu where juniper incense is burned all day, all over the city. It smells like a temple that contains hundreds of years worth of incense residue. If you've not been to a temple, you could compare it to the smell of an old Catholic church. The frankincense is there, but it is so well blended with the myrrh, juniper, and other resins that it doesn't stick out. I'm not getting any coffee or leather but I think that this, in combination with the resins, is what makes the animalic base. So, rather than getting a saddle shop leather, you get a little bit of vintage funk. It isn't an over the top castoreum or laundry detergent style musky scent. It's just a subtle hint of beautifully blended classic skin-like sexiness. I would recommend this to anybody who is into vintage fragrances. If you're looking for something animalic that isn't so heavy, this might be a nice choice. I would not suggest this for people who like to smell fresh and light. There is nothing sweet, airy, or fruity about this (much to my delight). 10/10 this is the best thing I've sampled in quite a while.

I heard so many deep dark legends about how good this was that I had to try it - dark spicy resiny woods being my home territory. At first spray I was a bit underwhelmed - yeah, it was in that ballpark, but not hitting any of the notes particularly heavily, very nice, very rich, very opulent, but really nothing stellar or unusual. Then it deepened and broadened for a couple of hours to become something really special, with really delicious frankincense. Then, about 4h in (on female skin in cool conditions, low humidity) most of the good stuff had died away and I was left only with a very bitter, sweaty afterwash... possibly the coffee and/or styrax, but in this phase, on me, it was acrid and not that great even for a lover of dark woody spice. I'd very happily try again and give it another go, but beware, this isn't for blind buying (especially at its steep retail price point.) ETA: tried again, this time with a completely different result: much warmer, lovelier spicy hardwoods, no coffee, no bitter dry down - but weaker on longevity than I remembered, and still just not quite beautiful enough to justify the price. Characterful and real, though maybe still a hair more butch than I'm comfortable with. Give it several test runs before making your decision on a full-bottle buy... ETA again: caved ... and bought. I think it performs very differently in different conditions - and is sweeter and warmer in mild, humid weather. Growing to love.

Board of director's steering committee at an old traditional company.... Leather chairs, robust resinous thick meeting table, coffee and tea and a couple of bouquets of flowers decorating the room. In the opening this feels peachy and sweet. Very soon coffee and leather are present, giving full body to this composition. To me the main player is the osmanthus reinforced by resins and spices with a touch of oriental incenses. It is dense, rich, opulent and very classy. It is sweet but very manageable. The picture that this brings to my mind is not something gourmand or edible, but more like a thick atmosphere that surrounds you like being in a high-class, refined, old-style and traditional indoor-location. Dry-down is kind of synthetic, very strong, but all special nuances are now blurred... which to me prevents this juice from being a completely master piece, but still very good and enjoyable. Uniqueness: medium-high Scent: 7.5/10 (first half is a 10/10) Performance: high Would I buy it: Yes

Oh my goodness, I think I just got a whiff of heaven. This came in a box of many samples which I have been patiently exploring. I scrambled to see which of the samples that I opened was so special. This is an incredible composition. We can go into all the tops to bases but to me the middle and base are so special. SPICES! Ancient spices...from somewhere Universal in Asia. Something that strikes a primal cord with you and subtly smashes your senses. A beautiful new flagship in my collection. I ordered the full bottle immediately, at a price of $190, you may wish to order a sample but I cannot imagine anyone not thoroughly liking this wonderful creation. I hope my sample lasts until the full bottle arrives as I will be wearing this all the time. Scent 10/10 (my only 10) Longevity 9/10 Silage 8/10 Price - Worth it, just do it!

Nanban is extremely complex and evolves over time. Warm spices, resins, leather, and coffee are all tied together by a ferocious animalic growl that gets louder in the late drydown. Wow. Arquiste really crammed a lot of notes into this bad boy, but it works. I can't help but picture a lioness, in all her strength and beauty, who is able to go from gently grooming her cub to rending her teeth through flesh in an instant. Nanban is not distinctly masculine or feminine and transcends gender stereotypes. This fragrance has a huge, commanding presence and its sillage shouts from across the room. Not for the meek. I'm looking forward to giving my sample a proper test run in colder temperatures. I have a feeling Nanban is going to be a stunner in my fall/winter rotation.

Very complex with layers upon layers of resins, spices and woods going on. This one requires patience to let it unfold on your skin. If you sprayed this on and someone walked by you they would definitely get a whiff of something interesting and sexy. This stuff will draw people to you. But with so much going on there is bound to be a note or two that might throw you off. Again be patient and let all the layers come together, it does take awhile. Rich and mysterious this one tells a story. Wear it out one night and see where it takes you.

An almost overwhelming resinous opening that drowns out everything. Soon after, warm spices peek their heads out. Does another 90 degree turn and becomes a very wood centric fragrance with juniper berry and leather. It's a very unique fragrance that I don't mind smelling at home. I'd imagine that it wouldn't sit well with fellow coffee shop patrons however.. In response to the posts below, I find it very interesting that some smell sweetness in this. This gets a strong like from me but not a love, for it did not steal my heart!

Thanks, Nemophilist...I've actually not yet gotten my nose on TF's London but was curious about it for a long time. I have to come back to Nanban when the weather cools a bit more because, while I do like it, I'm not LOVING it right now (glad I didnt pay full price). MIWBUTT and StellaDiverFlynn correctly picked up on the Oud quality, which I also picked up on immediately, but I find it curious how others are getting the coffee and tea notes because I'm not detecting even the slightest hint of those notes! =/

I'm going crazy trying to figure out what this reminds me of! On first wearing, I find it to be very leathery in the opening. After an hour or so, it begins to soften up and get much smoother/sweeter...quite nice at this stage, actually. Not really getting anything that resembles coffee or tea but am definitely getting something that reminds me of oud? hmmm. need to spend more time with this...

Good lord this juice is HEAVEN! Reminds me of Tauer #2 but darker/less sweet. A gorgeous Myrrh mixed with spices & a rough leather note = TOTAL BAD BOY SCENT! The sandalwood gives it this creamy smokey vibe in the dry down that DRIVES THIS HOME TO MAKE THIS ONE A MASTERPIECE! Way masculine & can't imagine a woman pulling this one off. Do yourself a favor and get your nose on this one.

New signature perfume. Had the pleasure of meeting Carlos and trying most of the range and Nanban really hit all the right notes. The only time I wouldn't wear it is if it is a very hot summers day. But for summer nights it is great. Very easy to wear, masterfully blended and extremely versatile for both men and woman. For me this is a 10/10

First Impression: Right off the bat I get the Olibanum, Coffee, and Leather. This is a really beautiful mix. Given about 10 minutes passed the black tea note is starting to surface. Excellent juice. This is fall and winter all the way. This is classified as a unisex fragrance but I see this as a total Men's fragrance. Very different.

Resiny incense and leather, like an old church. Heavy, dark, warm, and sweet. Longevity is extreme and projection is moderate. It sticks to and stays on anything it touches. I can spray it on my skin in the evening and still smell it on the clothing in the hamper the next day. I wear it for formal fall and winter events at night.

The hype is real and this is beautiful. There is something, however, that tickles my nose and gives some kind of dusty spice drawer vibe. But beyond that, and for the winter, just superb. Not sure where I would wear it though but don't let my boring life keep you from having this gem in your collection.

I do love this for its creativity. I also love the presentation and the bottle. This one has not fully grown on me yet, but I am awaiting the day it does!

WHAO! fantastique, unique chaud précieux ce parfum est beau. Il ne ressemble a rien de connut. je l'aime il est comme une seconde peau.9/10

An exquisite combination of marvellous resins, very classy, very evocative and fresh. It makes me feel so good right at first sniff.

The first two hours of Arquiste Nanban has its potential: a beautifully musky, subtly animalic leather emerging from unctuous myrrh resin. There was initially an abstract fruitiness, which could be the osmanthus seen from the shadow of the supple yet wild leather. The bitter coffee merges with the milky creaminess of sandalwood, as if the leather is placed beside a cup of delicious cappuccino. Incense smoke mingles with the styrax aspect of leather, while saffron and cumin are carefully sprinkled on top. The overall effect of Nanban is not too far from Papillon Anubis and Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque on my skin, but Nanban is more streamlined and more modern than both while still managing to retain a quiet animalic whisper. Unfortunately, as the subtle nuances wear off with time, Nanban then devolves into a sharp, smoky woody fragrance with a flat amber background, and it remains so until the end. The smoky woody part is quite similar to a few "oud" fragrances, such as Nasomatto Duro and LM Parfums Hard Leather, albeit Nanban being less aggressive than most. The sillage is relatively soft and the longevity is around 10 hours. I firmly enjoyed the harmonious first two hours of Nanban, in which it managed to interpret sensual animalic leather with a modern fluidity, even though I prefer the more opulent and wild Anubis and Cuir Mauresque. However, its ubiquitous smoky dry down ultimately left me unsatisfied. If you happen to be looking for a smoky oud-y leather fragrance which is rather trendy among recent years' niche offering, but with a soft ambery warmth and sensuality, Nanban would fit perfectly. That being said, I do find the price a bit too steep compared to other similar options.

Nanban to me feels like if it were Ambre Sultan went to war and came back amputated and was pleading the nurse for euthanasia. It's got lift instead of density an array of spices it's got an elegance that won't offend anyone nor wow anyone. It does dry down to a sexy spicy skin scent it's just so intimate for anyone to really enjoy this it would have to catch them off guard after the act perhaps leaving a memory after cuddling. If someone today wants to put out a spicy amber/oriental it's got so much competition I would say think twice. Between Musc Ravageur, Ambre Sultan, Grand Soir, Ambre Nuit Espirit, Ambre Loup, Cartier's Oud & Ambre and possibly the crown jewel of the category Le Lion. It's for the repenting introvert trying to make an impression while true to themselves they aren't not confident enough to take charge and lead. Maybe suited for one of the guys in Mark Wahlberg's Entourage that you will never remember his name or that girl who's slightly quirky attractive and works in the same building but never piques enough interest for you to approach. The further into my writing I get the less disappointed I am with Nanban could be of further interest as I feel a brooding nature to it's carnality. This is a slow cooker probably will leave that impression over days rather than the instant attraction. I conclude with interesting with its' twists and turns. Some introverts can lure you in after all looks like the nurse I mentioned earlier just might have fallen into a honey trap.

Nanban is an interesting fragrance. Haven't smelled anything like it before. Opens spicy and has a bit of sweetness which it loses over time. Very dry, spicy, resinous and woody. With the sweetness gone, get occasional whiffs of something sour and then it disappears. The woody accord in this case is unique to my nose. It's not like being in a lumberyard, not like pungent cedar mulch and not like sandalwood either. Did not get much leather or coffee, or it's just blended well. Overall impression is a masculine, classy fragrance. While longevity is good, projection is more moderate so it would work as an understated scent for the office or a formal occasion. Although I've tested this in winter, I think it would be good year round and could be a guy's signature scent. Reading what I've written so far, I've been positive, and I do like the scent, but it really didn't wow me, to be honest. Given the price, I'll pass.