Overcast

First hit of Overcast is a prick of vegetal greenery, sharpened by a citrus slice. A gardener's scent, the suede and leather of planting gloves soaked with so much photosynthetic blood. Ripping up a jasmine plant, bristling the blooms into releasing their parlor trick--headcracking bliss mist aroma, the neural network of roots still clung to the newly sun-touched soil that nourishes them. If you muck about in your garden long enough, you may begin a perspective shift which casts the act of tending land a little barbaric from the plant's view, even as it may be a soul-soothing pastime for the gardener. There's a healthy tension in the notes of Overcast: the fresh white floral and green stem are grounding, smooth leathers and musk practically sedative, set to simultaneous contrast and blend with a mildly foreboding soil and crisp bergamot that carries a suspect will to dominate. It's a zoetropic effect of clouds passing over sunlight, vacillations of shade and glare producing a strobe in slow motion. It projects like a pinhole camera: clear up close and blurred at a distance.

At first, I wasn't so sure about this because the opening was quite sharp/alcoholic. After a while, something metallic appears briefly before fading to earthiness and petrichor. It eventually dries down to rain-soaked jasmine flowers, paired with a soft skin scent. The jasmine isn't cloying or indolic at all. I found myself repeatedly sniffing my wrist on the dry down, something about it is very comforting and nostalgic. Doesn't project very far but it lasts a long time. If you like Thunderstorm by Demeter, you'll likely adore this as well. Overcast is more floral/musky whereas Thunderstorm is earthier. Also highly recommend sampling on skin, I tried this on someone else and the citrus was more prominent on them. Very happy with this, after being severely disappointed by Maison Margiela's When the Rain Stops...

This captures the essence of that fleeting moment right before a storm—an almost photorealistic depiction of the earth preparing to rain. The initial note that emerges on my skin is a familiar creosote, reminiscent of monsoon seasons in Arizona deserts from my youth, when the air would carry the distinct scent of rain’s approach. As the fragrance evolves, there’s a soft, muted iris note that emerges at the base, adding a delicate floral touch to the composition. The scent is clean, fresh, and airy, reminiscent of the purity of the air just before a rainstorm. One of the most remarkable aspects of Overcast is its longevity—this fragrance lingers throughout the day without ever becoming overwhelming, creating a subtle but refreshing aura around me.

Walking home from school between houses after the rain. The stretch of pavement edged by small wet gardens, freshly turned. The atmosphere is jasmine with the animal heat stripped out, so it feels like cool, open air. Underneath: soil, leather with something tarry in it, almost gasoline, and a faint musk that's alive but not feral. The dry down lingers here forever. It doesn't warm and doesn’t resolve. Hours later you're still out in the drizzle, still mineral wet in your coat. You're walking home but you never arrive. I’ve never smelled anything like it. Absolutely captivating in a nostalgic, melancholy way, that I keep returning to to make sure it’s still there.

This was a blind buy for me, but as I have gone through most of Bree's work and have yet to come across something I don't absolutely adore, so I went for it. Did not disappoint. Absolutely perfect. Opens with a beautiful clean geosmin on top and blossoms beautifully into a musky, humid jasmine with delicate citrus undertones. Really gorgeous. Bree Hyland is a master of their craft, and their body of work is honestly fool proof. Bree doesn't make a fragrance that's short of unique and mesmerizing. My favorite perfumer to date, hands down. I can't wait to see what you do next.