Ambre Safrano

I say this fearfully, but I enjoyed the saffron, which I usually don't. Saffron as a note loves my skin, but my love is not as mutual. This perfume I sprayed on me on a random outing with a friend who looked for a perfume for her father. I ended up spraying it and being haunted by the scent to this day. It was a bomb of oily saffron, heady smoky leather. It's a thick and unrelenting scent that stuck for over 24 hours, including after a shower. It is so strong, that it can become overwhelming, but it won me countless compliments. Two sprays was all it took. It evolves pleasantly, and saffron sometimes takes a backseat to other notes (can't really smell any plum to save my life), before coming back with a vengeance. It's a relief it is changing, given how strong it is, and how long it lasts. It takes one on a long journey from leathery smokiness, to intoxicating saffron, a resinous and oily follow up, and then a slightly sweet farewell. It's an intrigue for curious and restless minds and noses. I'm considering a full bottle.

The opening is dry and absolutely saffrony with a creamy somewhat cotton-candy amber. I like it a lot. After some minutes the dryness goes halfway away and it settles still saffrony. I can’t follow the amount of negative reviews. I’d even say if you’re female and enjoy masculine scents with spices, Amber and saffron that’s a safe buy. I enjoy a lot it’s not sweet nor gourmand, on the contrary, it‘s a very elegant and rich truly unisex scent. I didn’t like Velvet Tonka from BDK, for me, nauseatingly sweet as I also dislike Kirke, Initio’s aphrodisiac, gentle fluidity gold (I like the silver tho!) and other candy-bombs that for me smell cheap by the way... If you would enjoy a dry creamy ambery saffrony in your collection get it.

Fascinating scent. Opens with heavy leather, but somehow powdery, like the inside of a music box. It's a grown-up smell with an almost minty freshness underneath. Very unisex, maybe even leaning a bit more masculine than feminine; though if I met a butch woman or enby wearing this they'd probably have to peel me off them. Something about the way this smells makes me think of 70s fashion, but in a cool way: leather skirts and tall boots with chunky heels. I can imagine Stevie Nicks or Carole King smelling like this. Not something I'd wear often, but I'll hold on to my little 2ml tester bottle--it makes me feel like someone I'm not, but might like to pretend to be for an evening.

Beautiful, strong, and smooth, it is a powerful yet non-cloying winter scent. I wear it day and night. It has character and complexity, which is intriguing. It is very modern, in my opinion, better for women. Some say it is loud—okay, it could be—but it is not an offensive scent. Woody, plum, and leather notes give it a comforting vibe. I like the dry-down, which is buttery, but not sweet, just creamy. Amazing drydown, it's hard to find such a creamy woody drydown. It is a very "masculine" lady's scent, so many ladies won't like it. Please test it before buying. Of course, this could be gorgeous on a man, too.

Honestly i dont really review perfumes because its all subjective BUT this perfume I love it .For me i notice in the beginning the plum with the pepper(that unfortunately doesnt last long the opening) and then its all like a leather jacked drown in this boozy drink like some rum/whiskey im reviewing from a sample(i didnt put that much of the sample just to enjoy as much as possible the scent) and its like 10+ hours on my skin still screaming loud LOVED IT

First and foremost, it's a well-composed perfume. You can feel the quality when you wear it. Saffron, leather and vanilla with a delicious cosiness sound a little vintage, like a young, witchy woman working in an old antique shop, interested in history and collecting art. The perfume is characterful and enveloping. I like to wear it in spring, when it's not too hot and the air is just starting to warm up after winter. Beautiful.

Don't look at the rating of this fragrance. It is a masterpiece for colder weather! It is a warm, suede type leathery, ambery deliciousness. It is confidence booster. For me it was love at first sniff and having that said, the more I wear it the more I love it. Julien Rasquinet is the GOAT.

Delicious ambery saffron opening...warm, leathery, spicy, a bit smoky. Sandalwood sprouts later in evolution, melding elegantly into the scene. Sophisticated, elevated quiet luxury. This girlie-girl will rock this masculine elixir.

I have BDK samples and today I layered this with Rouge Smoking and OMG, I can't tell you how amazing and unique this combo is on me. I would buy FB of both, just for this blend. Magnificent!

This is amazing, refined and gorgeous masculine scent, the leather is present but comes smoothly into the equation. Projection and performance are complete Beast mode! Love it!

Smokey, sweet and leathery. To me this smells fantastic and one of my favorites from the house. It reminds me of something that guerlain would make.

This smells indistinguishable from other similar perfumes, and the plum note is lost somewhere.

I love this fragrance, but beware... it is very loud and fills a room. That's why i love it.

Up for review today is Ambre Safrano by BDK. Finally, one I don't have to put into a translator. Amber and saffron is a pretty common trope in a lot of fragrances, and I'm smelled my fair share. How will BDK's take on it differ from what I've experienced before? Let's get into it and find out; Scent: The opening is warm, spicy, and fruity. The primary notes I get are saffron, plum, olibanum, and leather. The strongest of the notes are the saffron and plum. The saffron opens up the fragrances with a blast of warm spiciness. It doesn't have any earthiness like some saffron notes can have, but it does have a bit of that honeyed sweetness that sometimes accompanies the note. Behind the saffron is the plum giving the opening a markedly fruity and juicy sweetness in contrast to the warm sweetness from the saffron. Up next is the olibanum and leather. The olibanum doubles down on the same accords with a balsamic kick; warm, sweet, spicy, and just a touch of smokiness. Lastly, the leather adds a leathery, animalic bite in the background that adds depth but doesn't overwhelm any of the other notes. What's interesting about this opening is I get a very distinct tobacco accord, acutely reminiscent of the type of tobacco found in Mancera's Red Tobacco. It's not nearly as harsh as Red Tobacco, but the comparisons can definitely be made. As for where it's coming from, I have to assume it's a blend of the saffron and olibanum but I wouldn't be at all surprised if there is an unlisted tobacco note. I also get hints of Side Effect in this as well. In fact, when I first sprayed it on, Side Effect is what first came to mind. But as the fragrance settled a bit, the likeness to Red Tobacco became more prominent. I would call this opening 60% Red Tobacco and 30% Side Effect, with 10% being left to differentiate it. The dry down is sweet, spicy, and warm. The primary notes I get are saffron, vanilla, leather, and olibanum. The strongest of the notes are the saffron and vanilla. The saffron is essentially unchanged from the opening, still keeping the same warm spiciness it had. The vanilla, however, has emerged in the dry down to provide a sizable dose of creamy sweetness to tip the scale more towards the sweet side. This is followed by the olibanum and leather. Just like in the dry down, both of the notes provide a supporting role to the primary notes. The olibanum still has the same balsamic, smoky, resinous tone from the opening. However, the leather has grown in intensity to provide more of an animalic and funky bite on the back end. Not too much, but definitely more noticeable than it was in the opening. It's worth noting that the tobacco accord is still present in the dry down, and even carries with it some of that quasi-medicinal facet that is found in Red Tobacco. The similarities to Side Effect are gone in the dry down, and it's mostly Red Tobacco that I find myself comparing it to. Further into the dry down, around the 7 hour mark, the fragrance becomes strikingly similar to Hugo Boss Bottled Absolu. Namely due to the leather and myrrh as it's a very similar type of leather note and the myrrh has the same balsamic quality as the olibanum. Performance: Projection within the first hour is very strong and can easily fill a room. Sillage matches that intensity with a dense and heavy scent trail. After about 4 hour the performance was largely unchanged. At the 8 hour mark the projection was about 3-4 feet but the scent trail was still easily noticeable. The fragrance lasted at least 12 hours before becoming a skin scent. When to wear: Ambre Safrano is a fall/winter fragrance best suited for evening wear. This is not a casual wearing fragrance and should be reserved for special occasions and/or formal events. Date nights, anniversaries, weddings; things of that nature. For the same reason, I would not wear this to the office. Blind buy: If you like Red Tobacco, Side Effect, or Boss Bottled Absolu, this is probably a safe blind buy for you. It doesn't match any of those 1:1, but it's a fairly decent blend of them. Final verdict: Ambre Safrano was quite a journey. From Red Tobacco, to Side Effect, and finally to Boss Bottled Absolu, it took me through a host of popular tobacco fragrances without even having a listed tobacco note. I'm not quite sure whether to call that artistry or a placebo effect, but there has to be something at work behind the scenes in that note pyramid making this happen; and for that reason I'll go with artistry. In regards to performance, Ambre Safrano is the strongest, most powerful BDK fragrance I've tried so far. Room filling projection and scent trails so thick you can cut them with a knife for at least the first 4 hours, and lasting at least over 12 before becoming a skin scent. When it comes to versatility, Ambre Safrano isn't winning any awards. It's a cold evening fragrance best reserved for special or formal occasions, and that's about it. In terms of mass-appeal, this isn't going to be something for everyone. Some people will find the "tobacco" accord too strong, or just find the fragrance too "in your face" in general. However, some people (like myself) will love it for those same reasons. To wrap this up, Ambre Safrano is a fragrance I would definitely consider buying, if not for the fact that I already own Red Tobacco, Side Effect, and Bottled Absolu. With that being the case, purchasing Ambre Safrano would be a bit redundant for my collection. But for the person that doesn't have those in their collection, I'd definitely recommend grabbing this one. Scent: 8/10 Longevity: 10/10 Sillage: 10/10

Ambre Safrano is a very dark, boozy amber scent with a prominent leather note, underscored by a woody base. It is aptly-named, led by a prominent saffron note that gives way to the amber accord that forms the crux of this scent. There is an oud-like quality to this scent, particularly as it develops, woody rather than of the animalic variety, marrying well with the amber. AS is a bold, unisex amber scent, even masculine-leaning. Despite its initial booziness and the hint of vanilla in the base, this is not a sweet amber. It is initially rich and dark, smooth at its heart, with leather and woody nuances evident as it develops. However, it wears a little thin in its later stages. AS is spicy and peppery from initial spray, opening with a prominent saffron note in keeping with its name. It is very boozy initially, with ripe plum paving the way to the balsamic amber accord. It settles, mellowing into a smooth, cohesive amber scent. The amber accord is dry here, with incense adding a little smokiness. It is wonderfully balsamic, and becomes slightly salty as it progresses. The leather emerges after a little while, a nice balance of polished and animalic. As it develops, the plum segues to a jammy rose note, forming the classic counterpoint to the amber accord. Some woodiness follows, initially soft but becoming increasingly prominent as it develops further. I get mostly oak initially, an underrated full-bodied, realistic woody note that adds a forest-like edge and brings to mind the oakmoss of classic chypres. It gives way to smooth sandalwood during the later stages. The amber persists, slightly animalic. However, it becomes thin and dry in its later stages - disappointing, as I expected a full-bodied amber accord throughout. It becomes musky as it fades, with dry woodiness remaining until final fade. Sillage and longevity are moderate. It is best worn in cold weather. A modern example of a spicy-amber scent, AS owes much to the classics and is nothing groundbreaking. It is not bad overall, and features several points of interest, but there are many better modern ambers out there, and this doesn't stand out. I would choose something like Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or MFK Grand Soir instead. Not bad, but imperfect and nothing special. 3/5.

I didn't think I would love this but... I kinda do... It's got a salty ambergris scent (I'm pretty sure there's none) that really gives it a salty, SLIGHTLY animalic feel which amplifies its depth... To be honest, it resembles Babycat by YSL but is a bit less sweet, a touch saltier, bit still has the saffron and gorgeous vanilla... Obviously they're not TOTALLY similar but I would say you don't need BOTH... I own both and sprayed Babycat on one arm and Ambre Safrano on the other and the first 90 minutes were shockingly similar... They both perform really well and the babycat is just a bit more vanilla forward where the BDK is more leather-forward (SLIGHTLY more masculine if you care about that at all... I don't).. and i wouldn't repurchase BOTH of these cuz they really are that similar... And I would likely buy this one over the YSL... it's a bit more interesting overall and... You can definitely get it cheaper. UPDATE: was comparing this (left wrist / right wrist kinda thing) with Van Cleef's Orchid Leather and.. not only are they VERY VERY similar (I mean... The difference is tiny) .. they're both created by the SAME PERFUMER lol.... Ironically this one has a stronger leather presence than Orchid Leather but they are both GREAT (seriously they're almost identical)... The BDK is SLIGHTLY rougher / more animalic than the Van Cleef and the VCA might be the TINIEST bit sweeter (plum)... But you shouldn't buy both...!

For me, amber has three distinct types. There’s the most basic - labdanum, benzoin, vanilla and perfume-y musk, a powdery-sweet hippie-ish scent you’d find in roll-ons at health food counters, adjacent to the patchouli oil and incense sticks. Next, you have the richer, more resinous iteration, smelling chewy, sexy, and oddly of root beer (this found in 1996, Musc Ravageur, Ambre Fétiche and so on). Finally, there’s the amber you find here, which I can only describe as smelling of refinement ... being deftly combined with aromachemicals to provide a smooth and decadent setting for the fragrance’s other accords. This is the black tie affair amber, as found in Grand Soir, Amber Aoud and Desert Rosewood. Ambre Safrano opens with a sweet, masculine leather, quite refined with plum and saffron. As it dries down, it transitions through a salty play-doh phase, leading to that very refined, rich-smelling amber. Interestingly, in the late drydown this sheds the formal attire and lands in the hippie-ish space of powdery vanilla amber. Overall, I’d say it’s perfectly good, though maybe not as necessary as the others mentioned above.

The composition of this fragrance seems to be one of an amber base largely structured around sandalwood molecules (similar to Amber Absolute), with smoky labdanum extracts, relatively little vanillin (though it contains something creamier - isobutavan? Lactones? Butyrates?). This base is accented by saffron leather molecules (safranal, safraleine), supported by a hint of isobutyl quinoline. Hints of rose balance the composition. I can't help but notice traces of ethyl maltol (candyfloss), ambroxan and hedione, reminiscent of the trendy and crystalline BR540 base by Francis Kirkdjian. [The perfume industry can be disappointing in this way - "see what a best seller did, and mimic some of that into new offerings". Turin and Ellena have written about this at length - I have nothing new to add on this subject.] However Ambre Safrano has enough of its own personality that all is not lost. It is quite alluring and mysterious in the first hour, slowly revealing its dry and woody sandalwood chems with time. Excellent choice for night time and cool weather.

This opens up with a punch of pepper and dry wood, than slowly settles around the 90 minute mark to a warm almost photo realistic resinous amber, still backed by dry wood, with a bit of smokiness. a scent it maintains with a moderate projection for roughly 2 more hours before sitting close to the skin for the reminder of it's lifespan,being an additional three -and a half four-ish hours. I don't get any of the sweeter notes advertised, (plum or rose), but the woods, spices, and resin-like olibanum do play a major part. I enjoy this scent overall and it is quite unique, and is suitable fir almost any occasion in cold weather, i expected slightly better performance for the BDK price tag.

The closest I’ve gotten to liking something with leather and saffron, two of my usual enemy notes. This is an expensive leather, high quality and well cared for. It’s quite smokey. I can’t pick out any of the individual listed notes, but they blend well together. It turns sweeter on my skin with time while the smokey leather lifts some. It’s really a beautiful blend, although not meant for me.