Cologne Reloaded

Cologne Reloaded is a limited-run offering by Bogue that quickly sold out in 2013, so I was delighted to at least be able to sample this via the generosity of another. In short, it’s delightful and seemingly reasonably loyal to the name: a crossroads between a traditional fresh/spicy men’s cologne and a more animalic leather offering. Assertive but not overwhelming, its blend of citrus, lavender, styrax, resins, and most boldly, castoreum, evolves from fresh to spicy and animalic to woody and resinous as well. I’m quite impressed by it. It really ebbs and flows between the fresh, more cologne-like qualities and the more provocative spicy/woody/animalic side, the castoreum being the most pungent provocateur of the mix, as is often the case, yielding a spicy, animalic type of leather quality that I so adore in other examples--most notably. Tom Ford Oud Wood Intense. of late. This is a robust perfume that I’d love to own a bottle of but that’s a pipe dream, so I’m glad to have been able to try it out and give it a whirl. It has the feel of a modern classic and performs quite well, also. I hope to someday track down a bottle but I imagine it would be pretty expensive to come by. 8 out of 10

A very interesting fragrance...very bold and soapy at beginning, I can't detect any notes at this moment. Later I can feel herbal lavender, an animalic aura shows up, in a very appealing way. If you like Mouchoir du Monsieur, may you like this, but it's richier than Guerlain, more complex. Seems it came from 30's. Dense, ultra-longlasting, soft powdery on basenotes, the best soapy smell I've smelled. It's not a sunny cologne, it's more like a skin covered with soap. Congratulations Mr. Antonio, nice job, even if I consider the market these days.

Let's just say that two versions of this perfume exist. I am lucky enough to own both of them. All the things said about CR replying other perfumes and being Italian Style Sh.t are nonsense. This is a real vintage. It was built using vintage materials and had a very long "décantation" So it is like wearing some old cologne, engorged in its concentration up to 7-10 times, from the 40's. To me it's marvellous and a very well executed work of art. By the way the very first version is even more powerful and lasting.

Cologne Reloaded was released in 2013 and has quickly sold out. It was made on a limited batch and has an interesting story to tell. The perfumer Antonio Gardoni found 40 bottles of essences and preparations for perfumes in a former pharmaceutical laboratory. All the materials were from the 40’s and were still sealed and in great condition, being preserved in the darkness of a cupboard in an underground warehouse. The light and the heat did not damage them. Some of the bottles that were in better state of preservation had the mixture of the essence for the production of the Cologne of Esperis, still with the original recipe and the dosage for the preparation. Following the instructions glued to the bottles, he mixed the ingredients for all five different variations of the cologne and obtained some very interesting results that reminded him of the smell of his grandfather and the old barbershop in the neighborhood. As he tested the fragrances on his own skin, he fell in love with the result and decided to explore the formula in order to create a more contemporary fragrance that could not be reproduced without the presence of these raw materials from past decades. By increasing the base concentration of the formula from 4% to 15%, he has managed to obtain a richer and more suitable essence for his new perfume. So, he added a mix of more current materials, which he divided into three categories: citruses and lavender; Styrax and other resins; Castoreum. The result was exciting to the point that he decided to use about 90% of all this old material to produce only four liters of perfume. Thus was born Cologne Reloaded. On the skin, Cologne Reloaded behaves in a linear and masculine manner. It touches the skin like a beautiful fougère covered by an immense dose of natural lavender. The output is beautiful and intriguing. Over time, the perfume oscillates between the powdery and the balsamic with nuances that remind the smell of barbershop. During the first hour, Cologne Reloaded exudes very satisfactorily. However, as time goes by, it loses strength and remains close to the skin. At this stage of evolution, the fragrance is woody and slightly smoky. It's the kind of scent that tends to appeal to lovers of more conservative fragrances, who do not mind a touch of innovation. It would be even better if it had the same projection and durability of Maai, which was created later and exudes mercilessly.

The same ole soup just reheated. As far as fragrances is concerned, this smells like a harsher version of Peety without the rose and tobacco. But if we're just talking wordly smells, this is a 100% replica of the black dax tar grease(if you're African American and you're reading this, you know what I'm talking about). I let a couple of women sniff my wrist and they hated it but that's not saying much to a niche connoisseur like myself. As you can see from the reviews below, this is praised in the community. I side with their sentiment. This chypre has that strong Italian swagger you often see in movies. Everything about cologne reloaded encompasses the attitude of "I'm the shit no matter what I'm doing or what I'm wearing".

Cologne Reloaded is made with perfume materials from the 1940s that found their way into the hands of perfumer and architect Antonio Gardoni. It is derived from a concentrated eau de cologne base called "Colonia della Esperis”. The base included instructions for reconstitution to various concentrations, each of which Gardoni prepared in his investigation of the materials. The discussion of Cologne Reloaded focuses quickly on the materials. Due to regulation and ethical considerations many historical materials are no longer used. As found objects from a remote past, though, these extant materials are free from contemporary censure and can be appreciated for their aesthetic value. They are an unearthed treasure, a time-capsule. The question is what to do with them? cologne reloadedHow should we view a cultural artifact separated from its era and lineage? In the case of the perfume base, you have the object as well as clear instructions for how it was used during its time. How do you interpret it in the present? Should they be preserved? Studied? Revived and prepared per the instructions? The answer to these questions leads from the materials to the perfumer. Mixed-media work is not uncommon. With Cologne Reloaded, though, the form isn't an intermedia hybrid. The artist is. Architecture has a language for adapting the past to the present/future and changing a structure’s meaning. Adaptation requires analysis of the original form and reimagining it while reflecting on the unexpected and unintended. An architect who is also a perfumer is in an interesting position to answer the questions posed by these materials from the past. The rediscovered essences were the starting place for the composition that eventually became Cologne Reloaded. Employing an eau de parfum concentration for a composition intended as an eau de cologne increases the potency but also risks a loss of clarity. Rather than avoid the issue of intensity, Gardoni chose to highlight it, adding materials that emphasize the forcefulness of the perfume by opening it up and making it more expansive. The topnotes in particular vibrate as if they are barely contained and Cologne Reloaded lunges out of the bottle. It has many of the signifiers of old-school perfumery including an expansive hesperidic opening that recalls an eau de cologne and a barber-shoppy hum nicked from the classic fougère. It borrows the twisted logic of the mid 20th century chypre and starts with a pouncing animalic quality yet finishes with a dense, powdery tone. Despite the references to the past, Cologne Reloaded is neither nostalgic nor dated. Some of the source materials came in the form of pre-mixed bases. The inherent complication of a base is that a perfumer can add to it but not subtract from it. Strong choices and editing become difficult to balance. Gardoni is adept and succeeds in making a perfume with a large dynamic range but no gaps or sharp edges. It bridges genres as easily as it bridges eras. Gardoni makes a compelling argument in favor of tradition, showing it to be a strength rather than a burden. He takes advantage of a traditional approach without falling into the traps of a conservative method. Cologne Reloaded is neither a repetition of the past nor a refuge from innovation. It is contemporary in structure if not style. At a time when restrictions on materials often foster nostalgia and regret, Gardoni uses vintage materials to ground his work firmly in the present. Production of Cologne Reloaded was restricted by a limited supply of the perfume base. Colonia della Esperis presented the classic zero-sum game: its supply is finite and cannot be reproduced. The dilemma becomes preservation versus meaningful use. Should it be reconstituted per instructions? Is it a museum-piece for display? Should we genuflect when we refer to it? Is there another option? Gardoni’s solution is to investigate the materials and to recognize what they offer. Colonia della Esperis could no longer be produced today, but current aromachemicals allows for the creation of perfume that couldn't have been imagined in the 1940s. Gardoni demonstrates that the value of tradition is not the repetition of customs or the replication of historical objects. It is the evolution of ideas. Colonia della Esperis and Cologne Reloaded highlight perfume’s impermanence and its predicament as both an object and an experience. The perfumes are gone and I mourn their loss, but Antonio Gardoni remains, a prospect that leaves me upbeat about the future of perfumery. from scenthurdle.com

Review based on the first run of Cologne Reloaded. To me, this one showcases the most beautiful natural castoreum note that I've come across in indie/artisanal perfumes. It's mouthwatering and insanely addictive. Oily, sweet, chewy, smoky, and leathery. It is the most prominent note in this composition, to my nose, smelling it now, after 10 years of maceration. If I put my nose close to it, yeah, I get the citrus/aromatic opening, I get the lavender and the resins. But to me, this one is all about the cloud, the sillage. I don't like it that much if I sniff it up close. I don't like lavender, fougeres, or classic men's perfume. But if I let it waff and swirl around me it's crazy good. Not that much of a fougere, more of a smoky, leathery, castoreum with a resinous touch. Downright sexy and alluring. I personally much prefer this over the current version of MAAI. And as mentioned before, like all Bogues, this one is all about the cloud, the way it smells in the air, not close up. Simple, but high-quality stuff. I'm curious if the castoreum used here was part of the vintage stuff Antonio has found or if he added it up later on as his own personal touch. In my opinion, it really makes this fragrance shine.

A classic masculine cologne on steroids. A hyper-concentrated mix of herbal lavender, citrus and smoky notes laying on a bold / animalic castoreum / resinoid base. The fragrance feels incredibly aromatic and and old-school while, at the same time, showing traces of modern perfumery. Simple yet multifaceted, daring yet somewhat old-fashioned, rustic while feeling extremely detailed at the same time. If you dig the work of Vero Kern or Angelo Pregoni, don't miss this. Watch out for Antonio Gardoni, he has a lot to tell. Rating: 7/10

What I always thought to be a fougere is more a chypre. If you've tried MAAI, just think of a lighter version. I'd take MAAI over it any day. IG: eatandsmellgood

Looking for this in any capacity (sample, Decant, bottle). If anyone has it sell, pm me!