Amber Cologne

Amber Cologne vs Musk Cologne. Amber Cologne has a fresher tinge of citrusy from grapefruits. It is brighter and lighter than Musk Cologne. On the quick opening, I can detect some indolic quality and stinkiness that could be from the oud or jasmine. But it goes away quickly, and the freshness comes. It is a different kind of citrus from what you usually smell in European perfumery (mainly bergamot). The citrus here could be perceived as a cheap concentrated juice at first, but it stands out, it differentiates, and I do not get bored of it, I keep coming back to it. And in the air too, it is addictive. Despite the name, the ambergris here is only a supporting actor. It gives a quality saltiness, it is easily missed or overshadowed by the citrus and the sandalwood, but that slightly saltiness is what makes Amber Cologne interesting and addictive. Amber Cologne is a blessing during the opening and the heart, but it dissipates quickly about 2-3 hours into a skin scent that gives almost nothing except a good floral-y sandalwood skin scent, which I have to literally breath in and out directly on the skin to smell. Musk Cologne has a sweeter citrus opening with a kick of RICH green but slightly indolic floral concoction. The florals are so well-blended, there are creamy quality of tuberose, and custardy ylang-ylang, but you can't tell which is which. They are just PERFECTLY-blended to dance around the citrus opening. The citrusy here can be perceived as the way I said above for Amber Cologne, but yes, here is also addictive and distinctive. Musk Cologne continue to GIVE even in the drydown. You will smell the sexy muskiness of the Siberian musk with a fainted citrus. It lasts longer, and easier to detect from your skin than Amber Cologne. You can choose between the two. Amber is light and floral-y refreshing with a more discreet performance. Musk is a bit of a better performer, with tinge of pissy dirtiness from the musk. If you are in for the material, the musk in Musk Cologne is definitely worth it, since it will eventually be a main thing in the dry down. Whereas the ambergris in Amber Cologne is a subtle player/ like Lana Del Rey back up vocal in Taylor Swift's "Snow on the beaches", it could feel like you pay for a grain of salt to put on your citrus juice. Also there is Escale En Indonesie from Les Indemodables which acutally amp up the highest quality of ambergris in cologne concentration that you would be sure to smell. I am nitpicking here but you cannot go wrong with either one. The floral game by Bortnikoff is SUPERIOR. Both Musk and Amber are top tier citrus cologne.

What a fantastic perfumer Bortnikoff is! I generally prefer niche brands that utilize a higher percentage of naturals over synthetic chemicals, but Bortnikoff stands above just about anything that I have tried (Areej Le Dore, Sultan Pasha, and Roja excluded).The overall smell of not just this but most of his works are fantastic. It really does feel like this is how perfume is supposed to be, but for obvious cost effective reasons it is easier to rely on synthetics as with most perfumery nowadays. The opening is simply exquisite with a wonderful trademark Bortnikoff frangipani, orange, and bergamot. The citrus elements here start with a bang but fade into a more floral nuanced middle. The frangipani here is quite heavily used as it carries along well into the middle before taking a backseat in the end. (1.5/2 hours before the middle clearly gives way) The middle is my favourite part because it has two transition points for me. The immediate middle has a wonderful combination of jasmine and frangipani that smells like you're walking through a floral patch on a hot day after it rained. This initial middle gives way for a heavier and thicker later middle, as the woods start to take shape with a wonderful sweet ambergris in the base. The later middle is very "comfortable" if that makes any sense. The woodiness just radiates warmth for me for a couple hours before we get to the base. (A solid 3-4 hours in this transitional middle). The base is clearly crafted and blended to perfection, as it probably has one of the mildest natural oud smells that I have ever smelt. The oud here is very clean which is not something I'm accustomed to. Although, the oud plays a very mild role as I get more of a wonderful sweet vanilla and salty ambergris, which gives me a very sensuous beach vibe. (This portion of the fragrance gives me a good 4-5 hours even in the heat). All in all, for a highly concentrated natural based perfume the experience is around 10 hours of wear. It may not appear like Bortnikoff is really anything fantastic, as most people like to hype brands, but this house is really something special. This is easily in my top 3 favourite spring/summer wear for just about any occasion. Fantastic creation from an interesting house! 10/10 I could not be more pleased😁

OK so I am a fanatical Bortnikoff groupie. Bortnikoff amazes me with their deep understanding of fragrance and essence. How can a fragrance be so light and delicate but have a full, gratifying, voluminous quality? How can a fragrance be so fresh yet have a real, full, snootful of just... plain... joy. I bet you didn't know that turned you on did ya? Wow, wow, wow This fragrance has a richness to it. Not exactly cheap but so fairly priced for what you are getting. What you get: an exclusive multi-dimensional journey to the deft, sensuous, deep breathing world of Bortnikoff. Your body scent is really factored in here making Bortnikoff a natural, sensous, and pure joy. Not that many houses can do that in my arrogant, megalomanical, evangelical, full-of-crap opinion. (That was just for fun--sorry.) Bortnikoff product line is broad and brilliant. The lights are playful, the animalics are dark, stormy and not for the faint of heart. Can you find your way back? Do you want to?! That is Bortnikoff. Mere mortals can buy in through Scent Split. Go 15 mil cos you're probably gonna like the whole line up. Quality and depth of knowledge is here at Bortnikoff. You see. . . you are going to the mountain with this house. I am building steadily. Bortnikoff is not kid stuff. Oh the fragrance--yeah. For how sophisticated Bortnikoff is, this one is just plain, good fun. The Jasmine Sumbac is unrivaled, and the Oud Sri Lanka will not pound you. A fresh open of Sweet Orange, Frangiapani, Virginia Cedarwood draws in the uninitiated. This parfum is accessible, it is a hit designed to delight people. Considering the darkness, and richness Bortnikoff can cast, what gorgeous shimmering light comes from this one. ( I must admit. . . I do have several of the heavy Bortnikoff. If you're gonna get heavy show some taste with Bortnikoff. Just pay.) Bortnikoff is not the diet food of fragrance. Hell no. It is full, fearless and way ahead. However, this Cologne is a light, not-too-sweet lemon tarte. The crust is not overworked. The point: the details. THAT is Bortnikoff.

I don't know a lot about Frangipani other than that they are used in Lei's, they look fruity and exotic as if the petals were fashioned from wax and probably smell delightful. This perfume is a shocker for me in the best kind of way. It's very much all of the sweet white floral bouquet from what I perceive as jasmine, with nothing impacting, overly heavy and certainly little indole to speak of. Right off the bat there's citrus with an orange/Mandarin biased accord which lasts throughout. It's juicy and vivid and coupled with the jasmine (Frangipani too evidently) it smells like a recreation of orange blossom...but in truth, Amber Cologne is much more appealing to my nose. I love this fragrance and I didn't want to because it's been hyped by at least one real arsehole in the 'community' and loads of legit folks too but it seems to be flavour of the month and although I try to say I'm above all the hype n such, I'm one of the worst for it and seek out every hype job going hoping I can bash them! :) I'm a sad man. Usually to no end though, as the initial hype is real (from legit sources) then some of the secondary hype is from the followers who look at trends and buy (or scavenge) perfume after seeing it being talked about. Bortnikov seem to have fallen victim to that (only in my judgemental eyes) and I was like 'yeah yeah...finest oud, Russian Adam, re branding etc... but the two I've tried (both very floral) have completely redefined what I think about 'that' kind of fragrance. Amber Cologne is delightful though really, stunning in fact, I can't smell the ambergris as such but the fixative quality bind everything together and there's a vaguely aquatic seabreeze smell and 'island' effect produced, with maybe some creaminess from sandalwood in the base? I loved it.

Thankful I came upon this without reading or hearing any hype about the brand. The dauber I’m sampling came with another order from Lucky Scent. The name, Amber Cologne, is too generic and does not match the incredible scent coming out of this bottle. I’m not sure where to begin, but this is f*ing gorgeous. Amber Cologne opens bright with citrus notes — orange, grapefruit, bergamot, lemon — all taking the drivers seat. I’d have to wear it again to get any further detail about which citrus note is dominant but the citrus stays through the drydown. Then the heart of the scent; a walk through a tropical, lush, wet garden with a pair of lovely flowers, jasmine and frangipani. Real ambergris brings the ocean salt and marine air with just a fraction of a drop. Dry down notes includes vanilla and sandalwood. And I had a revelation. I guess I do like real oud, because it’s used here. Not sure I’ve ever smelled oud from Thailand (or Vietnam?) It’s probably a tiny amount as I can’t fully detect it. Arms length projection with above average longevity, probably thanks to the light oud note (it’s very light, mixed in with other woods) Amber Cologne is an easy to wear, warm weather masterpiece. EDIT: less than 24 hours after my initial wearing, I bought a bottle. I was prompted to do so when I read that this scent was from a small batch, and when it’s gone there’s no guarantee it will be back. Now I’m the proud owner of one 50 ml bottle. I will treasure it for many years. EDIT: 8.10.19 I’m wearing this with two full sprays, love it more than I can say in words. One of my all time favorites. EDIT: 6.29.22 The scent has, somehow, gotten deeper and more long lasting. I believe this might be due to maceration.