Oud Cologne

This is incredible, if only it were a bit stronger. Like Sayat Nova, Oud Cologne wasn't a Bortnikoff I liked off first impressions, it smelled a bit harsh and this harshness along with some bitter orange and a green, piney facet smelled off putting. Now I've given it a full wear and it's lovely, not to mention I never would have guessed it would change into what it became on my skin. The opening is led by insanely fizzy citruses, to the point I'd say this is unironically the fragrance with the most realistic "soda" feel I've tried. Along with these citruses there's still that same green, piney facet I detected on paper but less noticeable, as well a near imperceptible amount of oud in the far background. I've mentioned in my "reviews" of other Bortnikoffs how there's a balsamic note that my skin picks up and intensifies and now I'm pretty confident it is in fact the oud. The tiny bit of oud there is in here still manages to give off this balsamic smell in a potent enough amount to be noticeable, but unlike something like Tabac Doré where it comes off whiskey-like or some of Maksim Bortnikoff's fragrances where it's more like overripe banana, here it's distinctly vanillic and sweet, and this combined with the fizzy citruses (and I know I'd probably get weird looks and questioned if my nose is broken for saying this) I get strong Eros vibes, although obviously nowhere near as sweet and synthetic as Eros is, and without the prominent mint on the top. All in all Oud Cologne smells to me like a very refreshing and natural lemon-orange soda with vanilla and smidges of oud and a pine-like note in the background. Performance is unfortunately not great and it makes the price of the fragrance a much tougher pill to swallow as I'd really love to own this. Projection is moderate to strong for the first 15-20 minutes before mellowing down to a moderate to intimate projection (obviously this is an estimation). Sillage is moderate for about an hour but it quickly dies down to a skin scent. Longevity is on the shorter side at only 4 hours but I suppose it's to be expected considering the type of fragrance it is and how full of naturals it is. I'd have been over the moon if this performed like Dubai did yesterday.

I wasn't expecting to smell the oud so strongly, I feel like maybe some reviewers here and on other prominent sites don't realise what Thai oud smells like. For comparison, the oud note in Amber Oud really is in the background, almost imperceptible, but in this one it spans across the notes, kind of supporting everything wonderfully. It's not at all skanky compared to other types of oud, more dry-woody. The benzoin makes an appearance early on if I smell up close, whereas the sillage is still all about the juicy citruses (very recognisable from many other Bortnikoffs).) I love the top, but it's not new if you know Bortnikoff, the heart and base are where it's at for me. There is a salty twang creeping in from the ambergris, and I'd say this is more animalic than amber cologne, perhaps due to the ambergris + pissy benzoin. It's growly, furry. As many others have said, it's not an oud-fest like other Bortnikoffs, but it is a unique and delicious twist to the world of fougères. If you think New York Intense or Le 3e Homme are amazing (which I really don't, but they're very popular fougères), this will blow your mind.

A beautifully fresh, green and woody scent, but with a misleading name. This starts with an ultra fresh burst of grapefruit and bitter orange mingled with gorgeous, foresty juniper, pine, and geranium. Reminds me of Froot Loops cereal when you first spray it on. As it dries down the freshness slowly takes a back seat to the benzoin and tonka sweetness and the ambergris becomes very pronounced. The ever-so-slightly fermented Thai oud is not a huge player, but it is noticeable as a fixative. It gives the whole composition a satisfying depth. Leans more masculine than Amber Cologne, but still could be pulled off by a woman. Projection and sillage are adequate, but not strong. The top notes disappear relatively quickly, but the strong, delicious base lingers 12+ hours on my skin. This one grew on me to the point that I think I like this better than the more popular Amber Cologne. It just fits my personal taste so well. Not as oudy as it's namesake might imply, but very fresh and fruity with a dominant woody depth.

A beautiful fresh and spicy oud. I 🤔 this is underated. I went with a bottle of Ambergris Cologne and a 9 ml of this. I always thought M-7 Fresh was better fragrance than M-7. After the first 10 minutes it settles in to a great blend. Love the touch of pine with pink pepper, great citruses, and a great oud. All in perfect balance.

This can be my daily beater for the colder months. Sharp, tangy oud with pine freshness. It wouldn't make sense to wear this on a hot day as it can be overpowering but not by much. The fall and cool spring days and summer nights are totally fine.