Sayat Nova

Anyone familiar with Bortnikoff fragrances is aware that he and Russian Adam both beast mode fragrances. Each one I have tired I have rated at 9 or 10 out of ten. Now however I may have to give a 10+ to Sayat Nova. Not only does it follow the Bortnikoff DNA it also has Rajesh Balkrishnan adding his magic that makes this a treasure for anyone lucky enough to find a bottle or even a sample. Rajesh is not as prolific at Bortnikoff, but his fragrances are legendary (and hard to get a hold of because they are put out in limited edition. I have already reviewed Di Ser Keman, Rajesh’s scent that is up for an Olfactory Award this year. I waxed poetic about it because it is far more than a scent, it is a life experience. It isn’t a beast, but it projects well and stays around for hours. With Sayat Nova I will also mention poetry for two reasons. First the fragrance comes as a result of an attempt to capture the essence of a famous Armenian traveling poet who incorporated visuals as well as words. The second is that the fragrance unfolds its notes in a poetic way. The longevity on this is with one spray at least 10 hours. This is much more of an epic poem rather than a fleeting lyric. But instead of armas virumque cano (the opening of The Aeneid “of arms and the man I sing” which Beaufort tries to capture in a scent), this one is less about stoic heroism and more about the celebration of life. As an Oriental gourmand I am not sure I have smelled one that comes close. It has a Bornikoffian DNA, but Rajesh has added his magic and the sum is greater than its parts. The apricot is full on from the time the fragrance touches the skin. But it is just the opening salvo as the rare Ouds, Rum, Vanilla are all major players. Everything about the scent speaks of the care taken to include rare ouds and other ingredients that make it epic. When I love a fragrance, I find myself sniffing my wrist throughout the day. With Sayat Nova I don’t have to sniff my wrist. The silage is, to switch metaphors, akin to the opening notes of a few of Beethoven’s works. And yet is so good that I find myself still sniffing my wrists so I can get even more intoxicated. It is a dark and thick scent. Rajesh has let me know it is not to be sprayed on clothing as it might discolor them. However I am almost sure if some did get on clothing, it would still be noticeable weeks, and possibly months, afterward. There must be thousands of fragrances with Vanilla, Oud, and Rum. There are not that many with Apricot, there are fewer still with the rarity of these ouds or vanilla. We as a species are, after all, just a bunch of common elements, and similar DNA at 99+%, yet tiny differences are what make us us. The same can be said about what separates fragrances with similar notes. If you can sample this fragrance you will know why I wax poetic. But there is more to the story of this Fragrance. I really think some people may not require sleep. Having come to know Rajesh (almost all remotely except when we waved at each other as I picked up my bottle of Sayat Nova), I learned that he is a professor at the University of Virginia. Not only is he a professor but he has been interviewed for his expertise on the effects of Covid-19. Here is a link to the interview. He responds to messages usually in seconds and posts a lot of his various social media pages about fragrances and other issues too. Here is a link to his interview of the social impact of Covid-19 i can be found on Youtube. I am honored to know him and look forward to sampling (and hopefully purchasing) more of his poetry in motion in the form of fragrance. I have received no compensation of any sort for the views I have shared here.

This perfume is a masterpiece. I have invested in both the attar, as well as the extrait. So I will speak about their unifying qualities, after which I will delve into what sets the two apart. Sayat Nova opens with a burst of a shimmering, golden apricot accord, completely composed of natural materials. The genius of this accord rests in how it stretches across the top, heart AND basenotes of this fragrance. On top, I recognize a use of natural apricot isolates, which provide necessary zing and freshness. The fruitiness of the apricot nuzzles right in with Sayat Nova's heart, composed of sweet vanilla and ouds dancing alongside gracefully. Finally, the base of oakmoss harmonizes perfectly with the apricot, and lends a long lasting fruity tartness to the entire accord. The top is also quite boozy. There is a rum note which jumps out at me in beginning, and takes this fragrance in a tropical direction; however, the rum's booziness on top is balanced with a fresh, fluttering, narcissus, keeping the fragrance from tilting syrupy, or overly rich. Once the heart of this fragrance develops, a creamy, oudy vanilla envelops you, and relaxes every muscle in your body. The vanillas and ouds used here are completely natural, never too sweet, and always in a perfect earthy, saccharine, and woody balance. Finally the dry-down. Oakmoss. Oh, how I love oakmoss. Inky, earthy, creamy, tart oakmoss. This is a LOT of oakmoss, but I don't mind. It plays with the apricot on top, lends an earthy, creamy hand to vanilla in the mid, and drys down with the rich Laotian oud in the base, lasting on skin for hours on end. Wearing this perfume is an indulgent, healing experience. Hats off to Balkrishnan and Bortnikoff, who have, in my opinion, created a magnum opus. This is a reference quality scent for ALL gourmands. If you have the means to sample this, I highly encourage you to do so. Be warned, you will want to buy it. Now lets delve into the difference between the attar and the extrait. In my wearing experience, I found there to be one central distinction, and that is the tartness of the oakmoss used in the two variations. This changes each unique phase of the two perfumes for me. The attar's oakmoss is noticeably tarter, as well as just more omnipresent. In the topnotes, the apricot comes off tarter, and fresher in the attar, whereas, in the extrait, I'd consider the apricot note a touch riper, and richer. In the heart, vanilla is less of a main player in the attar, and more of a supporting note to the oakmoss. This phase is a touch less creamy, but more earthy. And finally, in the drydown, the attar's oakmoss is everlasting, and will remain on your skin until you wash it off. I admire both equally, and will likely wear the attar on warmer days than I would wear the extrait. This fragrance has become the crown jewel of my collection, and likely will for yours as well. I want to add briefly that I don't smell many similarities between Sayat Nova, and Baque. Both are beautiful, sweet gourmands, and both have an apricot note listed, but that is where the comparisons end in my book. Perhaps the reviewer who likened the two confused Baque's use of oakwood for vanilla, as baque is a oak and tobacco HEAVY fragrance. Peace and love!

Bortnikoff’s Sayat Nova is a richly textured, oriental-woody composition. Inspired by the Armenian poet and troubadour of the same name, the fragrance is a mature, complex and unique narrative driven scent. Layered and evocative of both opulence and introspection. The opening is marked by a vivid apricot accord - both fresh and dried - paired with narcissus. These top notes create a fruity-floral introduction that is lush but not sweet. If you are not used to independent perfumery compositions, you may already feel overwhelmed at this point. In fact, the narcissus adds a green, slightly animalic edge, hinting at the complexity to come. As SN transitions into the heart, the mood deepens. Rum and vanilla emerge, lending a boozy warmth and creaminess. These notes act as a bridge between the brightness of the top and the darker, more resinous base. The vanilla is balsamic (and not sweet gourmand, as some reviewers stated), and it is used to temper the richness (heaviness?) of the oud and other base materials. The base is very intricate. A trio of ouds (Laotian, Bengali, and Trat... and I won't pretend that I can pinpoint all of them singularly) form a backbone, of smokiness, medicinal sharpness, and woody depth. Oakmoss adds an earthy, slightly bitter greenness. The leather note, while not listed explicitly in the official pyramid, is present as a nuanced effect rather than a dominant theme. It appears to arise from the interplay between the narcissus, oakmoss, and darker oud facets. I agree with other reviewers who said that the leather in SN is dry, smoky, a bit animalic. To me, it smells like heavily worn suede. It does not overwhelm the composition at any point, but rather weaves through the base. In terms of performance, Sayat Nova has a moderate projection for the first couple of hours. Then it wears close to the skin, but with a persistent gradual evolution. Longevity is substantial, 10-12 hours on skin - which will be stained by this juice (i.e. don't even think about spraying on light garments). If you are planning to see other humans, my advice is to spray SN 30 minutes before contact: this will ensure that the fragrance is developed enough to not overwhelm others with the melancholic power of the Armenian apricot.

What can I say that hasn't already been said? Sayat Nova is a opens with a wall of vanilla and rum, a touch of apricot. The gourmand notes are what you will notice first, but then the blend of ouds form the base and give this perfume a very interesting complexity. The floral notes provide a dab of lightness that helps take the sharpness off the vanilla. The ouds provide an earthy base perfect for bringing you back from the wall of vanilla, rum and apricot. It is not a light scent. It is a heavy, unapologetic, wave of complexity gourmand. Frankly I do not like vanilla in perfume. I feel it has been overused. But if anyone can get me to enjoy vanilla, it is Dmitri and he has done it. I initially bought a 10ml decant of sayat nova. The first time I smelled this, i thought it was nice. The second time I wore it, i found myself liking it more. After the 3rd time, I decided it was worth a full bottle. To my surprise, Sayat nova has received the most compliments from people that smell it on me. @scentcritique I feel that is a little harsh. Baque was the first slumberhouse i ever purchased and remains one of my all time favorites. I am a slumberhead admittedly. I have more bottles from that house than any other. To me, baque has more of a unripe boozy peach vibe. boozy in this case is whiskey. the woody note in baque gives me more of a oak barrel feel, going back to the whiskey smell. the other main note baque presents that sayat nova does not I feel is the fresh tobacco leaf. I see a vanilla note listed in Baque, but can't really detect it to my nose. Bortnikoff has been making gourmand/ouds since his first release and I think Sayat Nova compliments his style. Most of the enthusiasts I know that enjoy Slumberhouse were also big fans of Bortnokoff before Sayat Nova's release and generally all like Sayat Nova as well. You can find comparisons that yes they are both heavy boozy gourmands with apricot notes but I still fell there is a large contrast between the rum/whiskey and the ouds and florals of Sayat Nova versus the tobacco woody-ness of Baque. Both are masterpieces, but this post is entirely for Sayat Nova's praise and credit.

Sayat Nova is a traveler. Youthful with golden year wisdom. On a road. A discovery not intended to be found. It is a perfume of constant arrivals. A sliver of the story. Here we meet our traveler, traversing winding roads with a bright moon compass. Sore but grateful feet. A wicker pack full of the world’s delicacies. Ripe and dried apricots. Caramel colored salted pistachios. The finest cocoa powder. Aromatic vanilla beans. Pressed narcissus petals from a lost love. And, a bottle of dark liqueur, potent and a good listener. Many miles, already. Many more to go. Ahead, the faint flicker of a candle flame. A cottage in the woods. This is where the traveler will rest for the night. But not without a cost. The fruits and nuts. The flowers and booze. The price for place to lie. For the chocolate and vanilla, it can even be a bed. The traveler nods, kneels, and unloads the pack. The fruits and nuts and flowers. Even the booze. But not the chocolate. Nor the vanilla. They’re too precious to let go. The cottage owner nods and points to a wooden mattress of soil and mulch at the edge of the forest. A formal bow. Across the yard. Shoes off. Knees, hands, head. The clouds cover the moon. The candle plumes smoke. The night sky darkens where our traveler finds comfort in the womb of sleep. Little by little, and then all at once. Sleep. Sleep. Sleep. How tasty the chocolate will be for breakfast. Sleep. Sleep. Dream. This perfume opens with a photorealistic apricot note and a chocolate liqueur accord. There is also a flash of woods that foreshadows what is to come, but quickly settles into the background. Slowly the apricot and booze give way to a soft floral heart which gives way to a dense woody vanilla base. The chocolate stays for the life of this fragrance. I would call this a gourmand woody aromatic. Inviting projection. Not loud but noticeable. And two shower longevity. I gorgeous and gentle piece of art that I would wear to a cold-weather family holiday, a cuddle night in, or on a solo road trip to reflect and dream. 10/10