Robe d'Un Soir

Luminous aldehydes, soapy and limpid, begin Robe d'un Soir as it propels the wearer to a soft floral bosom, soft Dove bar lily, pot de crème ylang ylang, green narcissus, nestled in soft yellow grasses and straw. It has almost a rustic elegance, glazed with a light nectar, fresh like springtime. Vetiver and benzoin, accompanied by a far away, sweet woodiness, grace the nose after the floral heart dissipates and leaves a mirage. Robe d'Un Soir will take Jane Eyre over any Harlequin romance novel, sees beauty in taupe shades, prays but belongs to no denomination, and enjoys a glass of Vermouth di Torino every night before bed.

This is my NUMBER ONE Carven! I do not have this bottle, but the exclusives edition. I only know that exclusives one, so I have no comparing information. But it is sheer heaven. Quite sweet, oriental, aldehydes a bit, it's like a bit of everything actually! It somehow reminds me of the vintages Soprani's that seem to combine several groups as well. I think only the best noses in the world can make such balanced perfume, that combine a lot of angles in one fragrance. The Yves rocher and Soprani vintages have such a nose. And Carven with this particular beauty as well.

She passed away on June 8th, 2015 RIP Great Madame Carven. You enchanted our lives thanks to your fragrances all of the XXth century.

Dear Carven owners, may you reissue this scent just for perfume addicts we are....

Reminds me of Crêpe de Chine from F. Millot and SadieBluesLady has properly schooled me that Robe d'Un Soir can't possibly be a chypre. Fair enough. My parfum de toilette is vintage and in good shape. It's not a powerhouse but still smells like a real perfume of quality molecules. A "real perfume" smell that is elegant and a bit distant. The aldehyde has blown off and it's not a dynamic and uplifting scent. The current formulation of L'Air du Temps eau de parfum might be in the ballpark but my vintage Robe d'Un Soir has been aging for decades. And now I want to mention Ma Griffe... Oh, I had better not, since Robe d'Un Soir isn't a chypre. In any event, my Robe d'Un Soir is completely blended and purrs quietly.

Sorry but this is NOT a chypre! No oakmoss or patchouli in the base notes which automatically disqualifies it for that category. However it is a very lovely classic perfume, no question.

I can't review Robe d'Un Soir without talking about what I consider to be its sister scent, Ma Griffe. Smell them together and you'll understand. Robe pleases me in the way a lot of beautiful old school perfumes do, with an immediate impression of character that is so lacking in most of today's mainstream perfumerie. This perfume has good bones. It's aged gracefully. I love those 40's aldehydes and there's a trace of...a sort of noble rot, a hay/tea accord that's very faint, but that gives Robe a great backbone. A million thanks to the swap friend who sent me a vintage sample. Ma Griffe has a more powdery aldehyde than Robe d'Un Soir, but it smells to me as if Carven had a house aldehyde that they liked to use, modifying it slightly for use in different perfumes. Ma Griffe is more powdery than Robe, it's softer, but their green scents are related. I loved Ma Griffe first, but now I think Robe d'Un Soir is probably a technically superior perfume.

Soapy Ylang, & orris lilies. It's a soapy with huge aldehydes, foam, dove soap, and soft jasmines. I keep on sniffing roses, but the lilies are quite dominant. The vetiver is presented in a clean way. The carnation, sandalwood, and the cedar are presented big time as they appear after around 15 minutes in. It's quite real interesting to be honest, but it's (Let's Say) overly soapy and clean as if it belongs to the 90s era of a bubbly soapy blends. I'm getting into the vintage era nowadays and i don't know how long it will last! I really don't know why but i think it's because of the real animalic experience that i experience when i sniff old formulas! besides, one of Esxence 2018 lectures was quite infatuating and made me super curious to sniff the fragrances they talked about (Chypre), the lecture called "100 Years of Chypre Perfumes". Let's dig in.

ROBE D'UN JOUR... This is a review for Robe d'Un Jour (not soir!) as it's not actually listed. I can find very little information about it, other than it was a floral released in 1991 and is now discontinued. I happened to see it and pick it up for a steal on ebay, it's quite a classic floral, in fact, if you asked when when I would assume it's from I'd guess at maybe the 60s, it has a old fashioned feel to it but I cannot distinguish any individual notes. Smells nice, well blended, if not something I'd choose for myself. If anyone has any information to add then please do though! I'm very curious to know what others think of this lost gem!

This is THE BEST perfume I have ever used..hard to define and hard to describe, except as aldehydic without being too powdery or heavy, and not smelling like Chanel #5 (no comparison, in fact). Someone once described it as "Spring morning elegance", which I think about sums it up. Aside from the notes listed above, it also has jonquil in it. Has been my "signature scent" since age 15. Too bad it is so hard to find... The original formulation comes in a green & white striped box, which I describe here;...there is a reformulation in a silver box which is not the same.

My mother used to wear it. It was the only perfurme that she was not allergic to. It was light and pure. We have not been able to find the perfume in over 25 years. Which is quite sad actually since it is one of the few that I can wear also.

Oh, how I wish Carven would reissue this perfume! Lily plus aldehydes--the epitome of class and luxury!

This is jusr as beautifull and well crafted as Ma Griffe. Lovely oldschool floral aldehyde.