Madame Rochas

Contrarily to what some people here seem to think, this is not an underrated perfume. It has actually been, throughout the times, one of the most iconic perfumes ever. May be young people think so because it is no longer sold in perfume shops and for the last few years it was being sold in chemists at least in England and on the internet for an obnoxious low price for its quality. It is still relatively cheap, but its price seems to be going up. But it is not underrated. It is for sure one of the most famous perfumes of the last century and, despite the comments made by some people here, much more famous and sophisticated than the majority (for me than any, actually) of Chanel perfumes. Twenty years ago this was a very expensive perfume. And although Madame Rochas asked when it was made to have a perfume between arpege and number five, it is leagues above any of them. You cannot go wrong with this one, although I agree that is suits better mature women, beacuse of its class and sophistication.The fact that it seems a bit forgotten and is sold cheap these days shows how much tastes and prices are driven by fashion, brand name and advertisement. The perfume being sold these days is exactly the reformulation of 1989 which, of which, 22 years ago, the 50 ml bottle cost more than the 100 ml bottle these days. When I was a child, virtually everyone would have heard the name of this perfume. As far as I know, this is the second reformulation. The original perfume, sold as parfum de toilette, smelled heavenly, better, for my taste, than the first and this 1989 reformulation, but the sillage and the longevity are better now. I remember (I might be wrong) its having a vry soft almondish edge, very different from the vanilla and almond scent so trendy these days, and was what I found most remarkable and unique (I never smelled it anywhere else) abou it and what I can remember most vividly.This last reformulation is very close to the first reformulation, mostly more powdery, because of the iris, but I actually like this one better, from any viewpoint, fragrance, lasting power and sillage. Far from underrated, this used to be and I think it still is one of the most famous perfumes in the world. And deservedly. It is absolutely marvellous. And I agree, (not nearly as important), but the bottle is also beautiful. Rochas used to know how to make perfumes and everything to do with them. The bottles used to be beautiful, and so were the colours of some of them (the original lumiére was purple and byzance blue), and they produced light effects combined with the bottle colours. And they also knew how to give them names, without being pretentious. Lumiére is actually a beautiful name for a perfume. Not to mention the perfume. It is a pity that it is no lomger in production. I still have a bottle though. Marvellous perfume. Like Madame Rochas, although very different.

I do not know if the version I am reviewing is vintage or reformulated, but judging from the yellowing on the cellophane of the unopened gift set (100 ml EDT and 200 ml body lotion) purchased from another member, I am guessing it is the vintage. The bottle is exactly the same as the one pictured above and this SMELLS like a genuine 60's aldehyde floral...and then some! The opening blast of this perfume is sheer greens and aldehydes a-plenty! Surround this with a haze of chartreuse citruses, and bright vernal flowers like fruity hyacinth, orange blossoms and honeysuckle. It comes on like March does, like a LION; but becomes more "lamb-like" as the heart notes bloom and the aldehydes fade slowly. Madame Rochas is one of those exquisitely blended multi-floral compositions that has so many flowers it is nigh on impossible to pick them all out. I get the cool steely iris and the crisp daffodils, and just a touch of powdery "floral sachet" (remember those little soaps at Gramma's house? Yeah, like that!) until violet arrives with her typical sweet dryness, and tuberose adds just a dash of "naughty". For something so very complex and floral, Madame is clean and almost WHITE in the way she smells. I detect NONE of ylang's warmth or sultriness nor any muguet. Her soft sweet "voice" may be there adding to the floral harmony, but is buried under the other "singers", and this lady does SING!! After opening brightly and then being all frilly-dilly with the flowers, this settles to a lovely (predominately) vetiver soapiness, accented by cool woods and airy pungent oak moss. Ever so slightly sweet, in a very refined way, she becomes much more earthy; yet never gets her hands dirty. Madame Rochas is the quintessential "crisp and clean green floral" for the lady who wants to smell refined, but unpretentious, and rich without getting all heavy, oriental or carnal. She is sensual, alright...but then a true lady never kisses and tells! Sillage: great Longevity: very good Overall: 3.75/5 This is one of those bottles you would see on a refined lady's dresser; one who was conscious of her appearance, but never vain. Here is the sweet, soft pure scent of a matriarch, or loving mother, of not just her own family; but any others who come into the house and need or deserve unconditional love. Madame is one of those "comfort" scents for me, despite its cool demeanor, it smells amazingly rich and classy. NB: Yesterday (13 April, 2011) Madame Helene Rochas was laid to rest in Paris, France; where she lived and died. Her passing is mourned by perfume lovers around the world. This perfume is a fitting homage to her and how REAL perfume used to be made. You will be sorely missed, Madame! *bows head respectfully*

I am not sure which vintage version I have, but it is a parfum de toilette, in a bottle as shown above, and it came in a box with a pink brocade print on it. If anyone knows if this is a pre-1989 or formulation or post, I'd appreciate a heads up. My guess is that it is older. It has been well preserved, whichever version it is, and I get an immediate blast of aldehydes followed a minute later by a deep and inky oak moss. THIS is classic perfumery. The florals emerge after about 5 minutes, and I detect violet and rose immediately, softened by iris. The hyacinth adds some green freshness to the composition, and it rests on a bed of woody cedar and sandalwood. It is the friendliest old time chypres I can recall smelling. Very complex, so I know there is much more to explore here, and I am curious to see what else emerges on different wearings under different conditions. I won this in an Ebay auction. The price was truly a steal, and I consider myself lucky for winning it, as I feel like I own a piece of perfume history that has not been touched by time in any discernible manner. This was an immediate love for me, and I plan to wear this often this spring, though I truly think it is appropriate year round for anytime you want to feel elegant and sophisticated. ========== EDIT - Since purchasing the Parfum de Toilette, I have added a vintage pure Parfum. This is very intense,and though the top notes have weakened, what is left is a very potent leather note along with others. This note was very soft in the PDT but it is the start of the show in the pure Parfum. It because amazingly complex and beautiful when layered with the PdT. It is old school, and something that doesn't fit into what currently sells to modern audiences. I happen to love it, and it's something all lovers of retro and classic perfumery should experience.

Firstly, I own the recent EdT, which has sat on my shelf for a good while. Secondly, I am only 18 years old and feel like this perfume aims for an older audience. Thirdly, I'm pretty new to the perfume scene so please take this review with a grain of salt (or sugar, hehe). On me, at first it's very soapy before transitioning into a sweet floral that is just a tad powdery. My mom owns the original parfum, and I can definitely smell the top, middle and base notes better in the original then the newer toilette. It's an incredible scent, one that brings up fond memories whenever I smell it. I feel like I'm 8 again and I'm sitting in the back seat of our Toyota car on our way to a restaurant, cuddled up to mom since my brother next to me is hogging all the space again. It's classic and smells elegant in a more daily way, like a woman in her 40's or 50's casually yet gracefully doing some mundane chores. I think it wouldn't be out of place in a fancier setting though, I could see this on an impeccably coiffed beauty on a dinner date at a fancy restaurant any day. I think this perfume is a little ageless, as anyone can wear it with the youngest at least... 17? I think you'd make many a person do a double take though, and that the younger you are the lighter it has to go, maybe even under your clothes, especially if you're in high school. With the younger crowd it's more of a "special occasions" scent rather than a "I'm shopping at a mall" scent but an older woman in her late 30's could easily pull it off as a daily scent. Personally, I like this scent but it's quite hard for me to wear and it's very easy to accidentally spray too much. However, I do hope to eventually grow into this perfume as I get older, it's such a comforting scent to me that I would cry if I was unable to wear it when older.

My review is for vintage formula in Parfum de toilette and vintage pure parfum. Firstly when i sniff it out of the botlle it is an instant blast from the childhood: YES! that ́s exactly how fragrances smelled when i was little girl and they were highly desirable objects, especially in USSR where i have been born. makes my heart melt: a bit sharp, a bit soapy, a bit powedrly. Everything is exactly in the right proportions. Upon applying on my skin it opens up with a green-woodsy notes which soon transforms into soapy-creamy scent. It is a bit different than the current version, which has a more sharp opening and kind of metallic side effect. Usually i am not really fond of alhegydes but here they are sooo soft, i feel rose and tuberose in here. The drydown again returns to green notes, but still very soft ones. I agree with one of the previous review that the lasting power of vintage PdT is not that good as the current version, but long enough to be with you for almost the whole day. This is a true lady-like fragrance, if you can wear alhegydes, then DO try it. Like i said before "lady" doesn ́t mean you have to be middle aged, since you can be a lady at any age. The pure parfum version is more strong on the green notes, vetyver especially and more strongly reminds me of the current edition of EDT. Here the soapy notes not that prominent, they are submissive to green notes. Lasting power is great (over 24h). The best thin about "Madame" is that the sillage is just right for you to smell it, but not to be offensive to others! Really polite and madame-like perfume. The advertising image is sooooooo right for this perfume!