First

This perfume is substantial. There's a level of class and sophistication with this that lets you know that the woman who would choose to wear this has taste and has come from a money'ed background -- or at least has really "GOOD taste" and is on the way UP. The first 30 minutes of this is almost over the top - bordering on over kill. This would probably be one of my favorite perfumes of all time - if I didn't have to power through the first 30 minutes of this. However, once this settles into the skin more, this is really fabulous on. The list of ingredients is extensive, this a super power perfume of the mid 70's and wears with a similar power to perfumes that came on the scene in the 80's and early 90's... This has a well formulated alto chord which becomes more alluring as this blends with the chemistry of the skin and the final phase of wear turns into a delicious broth -- an intoxicatingly beautiful scent that very few other perfumes arrive at. I go through phases where I will set this one aside and not wear it for awhile, then will remember the compliments that I have received from this perfume -- and I have to re-evaluate it. I have recently tried Panthere by Cartier' and this is in a similar genre to the vintage Panthere. There is a quality about this perfume that lets you know that you are dealing with someone who is not run of the mill. This has an exclusive type aura about it, it is more refined than some of the other huge commercial successes that we can name by name, just by smelling the notes of the perfume. Some would categorize this perfume as "Boss Lady" - but it is really so much more than that. This is majestic and regal. Trustworthy. Confident. This perfume shows leadership and maturity. Someone who is grounded enough to be graceful and elegant even under pressure. Someone who is cool headed, but with a warmth that allows you to know that they really "Care". I also put Rare Gold by Avon into this similar genre, because they both do fabulous things on the skin - the longer they wear. I've said it before, but it bears repeating - This is truly a "Masterpiece"! I dearly love this perfume! ------------- This is possibly the smell of classic tea, perhaps that is why it exudes such a sense of class and distinction. This is mature, possibly even matronly - other reviews have stated this. However, I was wearing this in my early 30's and received a lot of compliments on it then, but primarily wore it for more formal occasions - it was never an every day perfume for me. This could be over kill, and may make you seem if you are putting on airs if you hesitate or flinch to wear this. This is not for everyone... that's for sure. This really has to work well with your chemistry because there are so many ingredients in this that it could feel overwhelming if you are not chemically suited to wear this one. I think perfumers make a mistake trying to craft a perfume that will appeal to the masses - Perfumes, just like books - should have a target audience in mind when they are being created. This is not a perfume I would wear to say young, upbeat, trendy, fun, sporty, casual... NO. And "First" would probably not be a perfume that I would wear every day, because I like to have perfumes that reflect the mood that I'm in - or the activities that I'm doing that day. This is more formal, elegant, refined, classic, majestic, powerful, reliable, trust worthy, solid, and there is a quality of leadership in this perfume that makes this appear like it would be a good stateswoman's perfume. This is a good perfume for the first woman President to wear. This is a good perfume for the Queen to wear.

Most people would argue that all aldehydes are the same. And yet each one is different enough to warrant owning them all if you like the genre. I adore it. You have the classic (but not necessarily the best); N°5 with its soapy and powdery candle wax snuff. You have Rive Gauche; the power suit of the 70’s that looks just as good in a jumpsuit or a fancy attire. Calèche and its discreet leather background riding into the woods. Arpège and its coming of age innocence. Calandre, sipping a vermouth and lying on a shag carpet. Infini; the bohemian neighbor above Calandre. And so many many more... And then you have First! A beauty from JCE, molded after the cues of its time and a fancy for big and bold. More than aldehydic, I’d say it’s a floral chypre with aldehydes. What makes First different to me it’s just this. Take the sparkle, the waxy and shimmering aldehydes you know (and love if you’re like me) but wrap them around gorgeous and languid florals, sprinkle them with a dash of fruit, and push them onto a vat of moss, honey and animalic notes. And let them explode! First evolves into a beautifully sparkling and living creation. The aldehydes pop and shimmer, but they give way to a heady bouquet of ripe white flowers with a magnificent jasmine, powdery iris and hyacinth, while the animalic and chypre background transforms it into a chypre. Woody at times, greener and sweeter sometimes, always alive and full animal, it differs from the above classics because it ends up in a different outcome than what you’d expect. It becomes timeless and hard to pinpoint to a certain time and age. The only thing that betrays its age is the fact that it has what’s missing from most current and modern creations; beauty, elegance and panache. Current First is still very good and very affordable. I had a bottle which I drained but this review is based on a 240ml splash from around 1975/1978. And it packs a major punch! Stunning!!!

If you like crystal clear, sparkling florals, on a slightly powdery base, you are going to love this fragrance. I have the edt and edp of this. It is a very clean and clear distinctive floral fragrance. Unlike Chanel No.5, which some have compared it, the aldehydes are not a sharp affront to your nose, but rather an airy, gossamer cloud of powdery floral goodness. It is so well composed that it is hard for me to distinguish, though it is not an abstract floral like Chanel. Rather it is a bouquet of crystalline white flowers, particularly jasmine, daffodil, and carnation (which gives it a little bit of spice). The rose and iris are revealed as it continues to wear on. The galbanum contributes greenness and the patchouli and vetiver a little bit of earthy aromatics. The base of amber, vanilla, and musk leave a very polished finish. This is a long-lasting fragrance that can be worn anywhere but is outstanding on a breezy cool fall or spring day. That is when I particularly love this fragrance; it swirls around me in wisps of shimmery florals. The edt is lighter and more sparkly, but the edp is stronger, and has more depth. Both have fantastic projection and silage. To me this is a much easier to wear fragrance than Chanel No.5, though I love that fragrance (vintage formulas) too. I came back to add something. Interparfums is now making this fragrance. They did a fantastic job with the edp but a lousy job with the edt. It has a very tallow scent that lingers and it doesn't let up. If you are going to purchase an edt, get the vintage which is easy to recognize because it only comes in 1 or 2 ounces and the band around the cap is reminiscent of a string of large gold pearls; not the flat gold band on the new bottles. Interparfums seems to have better luck with edps and did a good job with Van Cleef edp too. I smell absolutely no difference between their version, and the vintage Van Cleef I own.

Revisiting this, yet again -- This time, two years later. This is extremely STRONG, the first 30 minutes of wear. I've been wearing lighter fragrances this past couple of years, so this is definitely a jolt. This starts with a rather bold scent that is definitely a bit off putting. I rarely like to use this term, but it has that quality of being "old lady-ish". About 45 minutes to an hour into this, this calms into a gorgeous scent that blends and melds with my chemistry. This is alluring, it really draws me in at this point. The initial blast of this spray is so intense that it makes this dry down, the pay off for enduring the first strength of this. This is the Dallas and Dynasty era power suit fragrance. It is refined and smells expensive. This is a gorgeous perfume - and has a unique, one of a kind quality about it. I love the dry down after the first 45 minutes. It is truly gorgeous. For those of you who feel that this is too strong, or too dated -- I feel that this can be softened by spraying this a few minutes before taking a shower, or bath -- then allowing the fragrance oil to open with warm water. This would lighten the notes quite a bit. This is probably why I liked this particular fragrance after the jacuzzi. This really blends well with my chemistry and hot water... like an incredibly strong and intoxicatingly beautiful tea. This is a power house fragrance - designed for the 80's, however - this is an all time CLASSIC! Truly, ageless and timeless. A great signature fragrance for someone whose chemistry really blends well with the dry down notes. This is memorable, strikingly beautiful...unforgettable - just like the song! Yes, the first 45 minutes of this are SUPER STRONG. You'll need to ramp up for that! But the dry down is definitely worth the first apparent danger!

Why this one doesn't receive the love reserved for Chanel No. 5 and the likes, I will never understand. Especially given the less than acceptable performance of the present day N5 EDP (and EDT, for me). To each their own, of course, but it makes me sad to see this one sidelined. I have the present day formulations of both EDP and EDT of First. EDT is more effervescent, with a larger throw if you may. The EDP is deeper, darker, more sensuous and definitely more long lasting. For all the yesteryear scents that lost their punch because of restrictions, I don't know what magic trick they've use on this one because it gets the civet and oakmoss notes rather pitch perfect - easily comparable to vintage formulations of itself, and others like Estee Lauder's Knowing, Boucheron EDP, Shalimar and the likes. Stunning! This is Hollywood but cozy, black and white and yet resplendent. Floral, green, animal, woody - blended and balances with oomph. But by someone with a delicate hand. Sparkling aldehydes on top, gorgeous florals (particularly jasmine and hyacinth) in the mid - but quickly enough it dries down to the beautiful base - oakmoss, a slightly animal civet note, some vetiver and sandalwood. A truly bold and beautiful creation. Sure this is nowhere near what Ellena's works are known for today - in fact it seems he was admittedly going for crowd pleaser when creating this one - but he achieved that with grace and beauty. This is your 80s floral-aldehydic-chypre done to perfection, and hasn't lost its charm even today. It performs a few hours less than the original formulation, but honestly I'm not complaining. The EDT gets me about 4-5 hours and the EDP 6-7. Much longer on clothing. Absolute gem, much like the jewel the bottle is based on. Highly recommend <3