31 Rue Cambon Eau de Parfum

31 Rue Gambon 7001, USD 159 for 185 ml. Bottle (EDP concentration) First Impression (unknow date) 31 Rue Cambon (for short 31RC) is very cleaver manipulating in modern perfumery. When first applied, my nose nostalgia reminds me of Aramis for a second, say Hi to me. “Hi, it’s me the Chypre, nice to meet you again” Please do not mislead as this smell like Aramis, I just have limited experience with this genre, but it do evokes my memory about style of perfumery that I smelled before. Now, 31RC starts almost immediately with the floral. Dominant by Iris & Ylang-Ylang, with Jasmine nuance. However, these flower are not sweet at all. It unknow undertone that I have hard time put correct word to use. All I know is 31RC takes really long time to develop, It can be almost 2 hours before the scent evolve fully. This is where you can truly enjoy : 31RC reminds me of the moment when late 40’s where all the storm are passed, fashion and passion are bloomed again. The room full with makeup smell, rogue, perfume and the traditional model are await to do they walk for the runway. To be honest, it is not the Chanel-estique (please look at No.22 instead for most Chanel-estique) but remind me of old pride fashion house as a whole, 31RC do right given the name of flagship store back in 1918. Definitely, it keep dawning me back and I will use repeatedly until I can unlock everything. And no, this scent is not old at all. ===== 31 Rue Cambon (Full Review on January 31st, 2024) My nose are slightly more maturing now, I know still long way to go. I feel like, I should do an extension of previous for correction of 31 Rue Cambon. 31 Rue Cambon is Powdery-French Labdanum chypre fragrance. Quality of French Labdanum is quite prominent from the get go. From my personal view. "French Labdanum" are smell like Leathery, dry amber with slight of Jammy Sweetness, mildly tart and tinge of green. I personally think a person who enjoy "Benzonin" would enjoy "French Labdanum", French Labdanum can go many way depending on composition. In this 31 Rue Cambon, use in classic Chypre manner, substitute the Oakmoss and cover most dirty aspect by Earthy Patchouli and Add Sweetness by Rose & Ylang Ylang. Woody note kinda smell like combination of Cedre and Sandalwood but only accord. Not like substance one. ========== Update 2 on February 29, 2024 So, today I just refresh update my post on 1932 (edt), I want to revisit and differentiate one from another. Quality of 31 Rue Cambon that differentiate herself the most is Patchouli quality and smooth Labdanum. This leads to Chypre quality, this is Chypre.. However, this is still Floral Chypre that carried on the heart of other signature Chanel floral beautifully. Especially the Ylang-Ylang quality, I will say it here again “Yellow Floral, Aldehydes and Signature Musk accord” is DNA of Chanel. Form all of 4 I tried to compare right now (Beige, 31 Rue Cambon, 1932 edt and no.22) I think this is the most formal one. It smells like early design of garment by Chanel herself. Enigmatic and Elegant. I would love to use 31 Rue Cambon on the formal day when I need Chanel. ===== Extension 2 : January 31, 2025 Recently the idea of find 31 Rue Cambon EDT is hunting me. Even, to be really honest, I am enjoying 31 Rue Cambon EDP as is. And assumably, I won't be so serious about reformation. (well, this is almost 10 years old). Perfumery is change, as we know. And market starts flood with sweet cutie strong scent. The appear of Strong Sour Labdanum, fade. Goes well as Vetiver that barely have an woody component. The dry Chalky Patchouli contrast (with I still insist) the most beautiful Ylang-Ylang. As anyone can't beat Chanel, Subsequent the Iris that feel both Lipstick and Green dry texture. The one I recall in 28 La Pausa. The wedding bouquet undertone, moist. Merry with one of I think, very Balsamic Labdanum. I need to bite my lip slightly, if I need to call this Chypre now. As I really enjoy oak moss in strong dose to be so call "Chypre". My bottle of Mitsouko EdC, always be there reminds me of Oakmoss can do in Hefty dose. But the way it sit on your skin 4-5 hours and still keep unfold story over and over. Sweet Strong and Stable, this Old way amber-floral fragrance truly warm and delight. As reminds me of no.22; how aldehydic Chanel can do. I lost my companion with No.22 EDP long-gone but I given how this fragrance. Construct using one my favorite construction. bottle 31 rue carbon always one of my choice. When I need Chanel in life. She convey most strong message from my choice of Les Exclusif. That last paragraph always bring me the good reason why I want to try EDT. But still, giving a time to scent itself. I will just enjoy my bottle of EDP. . . . . . ===== Pre blind-buy record (April 1, 2023) I decided to proceed a blind-buy on this while bidding this and La Pansa. 31 Rue Cambon seems speak to my need a bit better.. I personally love Rose, Jasmine, patchouli and Iris. And fairy get along well with Ylang-Yalang. I love Idea of deeper No. 19 EDP and I feel No. 19 is a bit flat (I tried Poudre version). Also few review, mention the most beautiful Iris, and I think of Dioramour, it’s also beautiful iris as well, but I it a bit too powder for me.

Leather, Civet, and Skin Musk, or Damn this is Illicit I think that there is a LOT going on here, more than the simple list of notes would convey. Actually I was blown away by how different this is from the EDT...they are definitely kissing cousins but this is not simply a stronger version of the EDT... Frankly this is a dirty perfume. A Sexy, Dirty perfume. On my skin it's all iris...iris surrounded by leather and skin musk and erotic pepper/21st century civet. 31 should only be worn past 10 o'clock at night it's that good...oh my I was not not expecting this at all. And that iris! My Lord is that a strong, almost fleshy iris! I didn't know that it was possible! Maybe it's just because it's layered with all those good old fashioned sexy notes that it comes across like that. I'm sorry that I'm just babbling about this but I don't think I've ever smelled an iris perfume like this...and damn that leather/skin musk...and the earthy dark pepper that turns almost into civet on my skin. This is dark as hell, achingly beautiful, and makes me feel like a sex goddess...and I don't usually throw the sex/perfume dichotomy around that often, but that's what 31 does on my skin. Okay, so the clinical part: The iris is front and center right away, and surrounded by the leather/musk/pepper...the ylang ylang is kind of weird on me. But good weird...it almost acts like an aldehyde, it is the highest-pitched note in 31, it lends a golden sheen of light and sweetness over all that leathery iris. But for me it's background noise. The ylang ylang does hold on for most of the life of the perfume and acts as that rounding note. The 'modern chypre base' starts to emerge after an hour or two, and earthy patchouli dipped in a ton of labdanum...very resinous, but still, it just drapes over the skin and behaves wonderfully. The rose comes out here as well, it is still not a star, but the iris does move to the side a little and a nice dark rose sits in with everything else. On the far, far drydown is patchouli, labdanum, iris, and woods. Interestingly enough, the drydown is cleanest part of the perfume. The leather/musk/pepper notes are gone by the time 31 fully dries down. This lasts at least 12+ hours on me, with say 3-4 good sprays. It's definitely not a powerhouse, but anyone who leans in will be able to smell you (and how sexy is that?) and I can smell 31 on me all throughout the wear, it's NOT so quiet that it turns into a wrist sniffer. So can you tell that I totally dig this? Lol. I guess I was just totally unprepared and delighted by how this works on my skin...it's earthy, sexy, and classy all rolled into one. And the lasting power is truly great, and worthy of being an Eau de Parfum. Now I wish I had gotten the ridiculously priced 200 ml bottle...

This is one of my favorites. I like it so much that I hesitated to add more praise among the chorus...I purchased my 75ml bottle during a rare department store sale and it was the last bottle. In my selfishness, I'd rather fewer people knew. I had originally been given a little 1.5ml EdP sample soon after the EdP Exclusifs launch with a different perfume purchase and fell in love with it. Convinced by all the people who lamented the EdT's demise, I sought it out thinking that the EdT could only be superior. To me, it wasn't...read the #3 review on here from the bottom ("TheFrenchMistress") as to why I wholly agree with her. I only liked the EdT while my love for the EdP endures. The EdT is more androgynous, whereas EdP does lean more feminine. I do think men can pull off feminine fragrances but personally I think the EdP suits women better. The EdT was a more austere, upright pepper-iris-amber scent and I often felt it didn't suit me or my mood...when I wasn't determined to be chic or uber-productive. The EdP is more lush, rounded, warmer, sweeter...and in my opinion just as luxurious without sacrificing the dignity and integrity of the original. The black pepper opening blast is less herbal and more tame (I love black pepper in perfumes.) There is more ylang in the EdP which gives it hints of banana custard without turning it gourmand or sugary. The patchouli nestled within the amber in the drydown is smooth and subtle. EdP is like a beautiful, well-bred lady who will not look down on anyone; she won't feel out of place being worn by a teenager or grandmother; and she won't announce herself too loudly to try to make herself the star of the show. I understand the perfumery criticism that 31RC EdP isn't distinct enough to be an Exclusif or a classic which spawns descendants. It's completely valid but that's why I love her. While fragrances like Coromandel (a crown jewel of the Exclusifs) are bewitching and fascinating - the incense smoke, white chocolate, patchouli are captivating - my GOSH do I find it annoying after too many hours of such complexity. I experienced the same with the original Angel EdT - tart berries, praline, patchouli cedar musk - when I wanted to study it, it kept my attention but when I wanted to focus on other things, it kept getting in my way. The final test of all...31RC EdP's faint smell on clothes the day after wear remain very welcome. You can re-spray her or layer on top a different perfume and she will get along well. Therefore, this one will always be a staple in my collection. Love.

I have wanted to sample 31 Rue Cambon for a long time. Named for Chanel's Parisian flagship store, it seems fitting that they saved this moniker for Chanel's take on a classic chypre. One of the best Les Exclusifs, 31 is reminiscent of several classics of the genre, while featuring the signature Chanel accord of rose, iris, and white florals at its heart. A little bit Mitsouko, a little bit Jubilation 25, 31 has a fruitiness at its opening stages, followed by the aforementioned bouquet. 31 opens with bright, joyful fruity notes, fresh citrus, sweet peach and a hint of peppery spice. There is a dewy greenness in the background, enhancing the freshness of the opening while giving greenery to the bouquet that follows. The florals emerge shortly afterwards, with smooth, sweetly tropical ylang ylang leading the way. Iris adds its distinctive powdery melancholy, but the rose that follows is the most prominent floral note to my nose, sweet, rich and gradually becoming more powdery as it develops. I get some jasmine too during the later stages. The chypre base emerges as it dries down, richly mossy and earthy, marrying beautifully with the rose in particular. It is beautifully rendered, as good as any vintage chypre base, but given the presumable absence of oakmoss, it is a testament to the skill of M. Polge. Labdanum adds a hint of sweet, amber-y, animalic richness to the drydown, enhancing the chypre beautifully. Sillage is moderate and longevity is pretty long-lasting. I am a lover of chypres, and this is one of the best I've tried. Classic and timeless, this is feminine in the traditional sense, but perfectly unisex in a modern manner. Utterly wearable and effortlessly chic, it delivers elegance for every occasion. For year-round use. Chypre by way of Chanel. 5/5.

When I sampled this in the San Francisco Chanel boutique, I knew instantly that I had to have it. Being on a modest budget, I took a sample vial home with me and spent some time with 31 RdC, which only confirmed my initial impression. After saving up, I opted for the large size bottle, and this fragrance remains my favorite Chanel to this day (followed closely by No. 19 EDP and No. 5 Eau Première). No. 19 does iris really well, pairing it with galbanum and water notes, but 31 RdC takes it in a totally different direction by combining it with patchouli. I've never been able to try the original EdT version, but I've seen it described as "funky." That kind of makes sense to me. Iris plus patch doesn't seem like the most intuitive couple, and the strange but elegant starchy-chewy-wet opening might be off-putting for some. But then the lovely trio of ylang, labdanum, and rose swoops in and adds lush florals and smooth, subtle resins. If the first stroke of genius was combining iris and patchouli, the second was combining iris and labdanum, each of which has a leathery quality that complements the other in the most magical way. This is, in my opinion, the best of the Exclusifs line, and definitely the most unique. Yet it retains that airy, chic element that Chanel scents have become famous for. The bottle is simple but striking, and the cap and sprayer are very high quality. Fairly unisex (leaning slightly more feminine), and appropriate for all seasons but high winter, since it won't open up properly in the cold and is a bit too cool/sheer for that. Slightly more formal, but with the right outfit, this could totally work for a casual drink in jeans. Bravissima, Chanel!