Sycomore Parfum

There is Guerlain’s Vetiver (the original EdT, not the new messes also called Vetiver), and there is this, my two favorite vetiver perfumes. Compared to other Chanel extraits this is the least grand, the least symphonic, and the least nuanced but that is probably as it should be. A sycamore tree is not a grand, operatic, nuanced thing; it’s just there, it’s solid, and it’s unwavering and unmoving, but in that there is something quite majestic as well. Vetiver is front and center stage throughout the entirety of Sycomore’s life. The evolution of the perfume is the changing of the supporting characters that flank it. The vetiver is equal parts green and swampy aromatic - the wet, salty, fetid, grass compost aroma that many find challenging - and also woody, stiff and peppery like some strange species of cedar. This wide spectrum of aromas to the vetiver accord leaves a lot of “room to fill” from an olfactory perspective. Olivier Polge has decided to fill those gaps with orris, tonka bean, and leather. The first to get noticed is the orris, and it is beautiful. The dry, powdery, starchy, and slightly earthy purple floral accord keeps the pushier green elements of the vetiver to good behavior, softening the presentation of the vetiver. The tonka bean and leather show up roughly around the same time to highlight the vetiver’s woody character. Earthy vanillics, leathery animalics, and aromatic woods have been bedfellows for a very long time across many thousands of perfumes simply because they work very well together when coaxed into the correct positions. Polge dials them into a perfect three part harmony, letting the tonka bean add a touch of silky and earthy sweetness, the leather a bit of an animalic purr, and with the woods plenty of classic elegance and regality. What remains in the final skin scent is the powdery orris, an extremely gentle leather, and the woody aspects of vetiver. It's at this stage of Sycomore that I fell in love with it. It is so gentle, soft, and pleasant in the most classically masculine perfume sort of way. Endlessly addictive. I cannot stop going in for one more sniff. Circling back to a previous statement, at no point did the perfume ever feel big, loud, ostentatious, grand, or symphonic as a classic French extrait often can. It is quiet. It is serene. Sycomore is like a virgin forest, where any wind rustling through the trees, or a crunch of a twig or leaf under your foot, will echo and boom in the stillness. There is something achingly beautiful to pristine silence and natural stillness, teeming life all around you yet never making a sound.

I got this extrait today at Chanel. I'm posting preliminary impressions here and will update this review later as appropriate. Full disclosure: I love Sycomore EDP (and miss the extraordinary EDT). As I write this post, the back of my left hand is adorned by the extrait & my right, the EDP. Is the Sycomore Pure Parfum identical to the EDP? No. Nor is it a simply a more 'intense' version of the EDP. The extrait is deeper, richer and less vetiver-forward than the EDP. Here, the iris mellows and smooths the vetiver. And, to be clear, this fragrance is still vetiver-focused. But in this iteration, the blending is spectacular and the compounding delivers a more multi-faceted fragrance than you found in prior versions of the fragrance. Elements that are barely perceptible in the EDP are more noticeable here. No one element dominates the others. There is a lovely powdery element that plays against the woody notes and there is just a faint trace of Cuir de Russie leather lurking deep in the recesses of the fragrance that I don't notice in the EDP. The result is a more elegant, breathtakingly beautiful unisex masterpiece. The extrait is more subdued than the EDP, with less projection but longer duration. I love it. To my nose, the vetiver here is more bright and minty than than in the EDP, where the vetiver is a bit more grassy. This observation is not to suggest that Sycomore Pure Parfum is a mint scent, but it is simultaneously both brighter and smoother than the EDP -- all the roughness of the vetiver in the EDP have been smoothed. I suspect those folks who remember the sharpness of the original EDT will be surprised by the contrast in character found in the extrait. This Sycomore is complex in a way that earlier versions, as good as they are, cannot touch. It is beautifully suited for evening use and will likely be stellar in cool temperatures. The darling little 15 ml bottle is appropriately elegant and just a bit pricey at $280. Yet I am delighted to have bought a bottle of Sycomore Pure Partum and recommend that devotees of the earlier Sycomores get their noses on this gem. I suspect they'll love it. Exceptionally highly recommended.

Sensational... I love the EdP, never fell for a perfume this fast and this hard. Have made it my signature scent and do not want to wear anything else from now on. Unfortunately the 15 ml extrait parfum were all discontinued last year. Before i discovered Sycomore. Now today I walked into one of the local official Chanel fragrance stores in my city and asked if they will be relaunched. The saleswoman looked at me and almost whispered that they still have some different ones in a drawer but not on display. She checked and they had 1 bottle left of Sycomore. THE VERY FIRST BATCH PRODUCED IN MAY 2022. Batch 7601. I did not even ask how much it was, did not matter. The quality is stunning, just simply on completely different level than the EdP. With much less alcohol and more essential oils it is much more rounded, creamy and soothing. It is heavier on vanilla and sandalwood, the vetiver is less smoky, much more muted. This is heaven. Almost like a velvety aura. But actually very different to EdP version. It has that Sycomore EdP recognizable dna but warmer and more sensual. I never thought of perfumes as masterpieces but to produce something like this, what an incredible craftsmanship. BTW the price was converted into approx 310 usd and worth every cent. I understand that is a lot of money but trust me, it is incredible and I will use it on special occasions and treasure it.

This is probably the most beautiful interpretation of Vetiver I have ever come across. Intensely crisp, vibrant and fresh while simultaneously very rich, balsamic and voluptuous. There is a lot going on there, so you’ll need to invest some time in it to get the whole picture. For me personally this is hands down the best Sycomore version so far. The original EDT was a bit too rough, dry and too smoky for me. This is incredibly round absolute perfection! Regarding projection: this is pure perfume, a concentration which by design will not create a vulgar cloud of fragrance announcing you before you enter the room, so don’t expect that. It’s discreet as it’s supposed to be, a fragrant symphony that plays only for you and those you invite to come closer. It is fairly long lasting since it’s composed mainly of base notes.

I recently, impulsively, acquired a 15 mL bottle of this perfume. The bottle is quite difficult to open! I had to use a paring knife to free the small stopper from the neck. I initially thought I made a massive mistake buying an extrait without trialling it for a few days - but wearing it yesterday completely put my mind at ease. The opening reminds me somewhat of baby shampoo and freshly cut grass. A few moments in, the warmth of the vetiver and soft leather accord envelops my senses. I was still able to get whiffs of this beautiful perfume 6 hours after application. I look forward to add more of the Les Exclusifs Parfums to my collection.

Chanel Sycomore (2022) - iris vetiver - #jacquespolge’s EDP version reminds one of a forest - cedar trees, pine branches and earthy vetiver grass. I removed a point from it given the sharp opening. While the #olivierpolge Parfum starts out very different. Instead of a citric Bergamot opening, it starts out with dry, rooty and slightly powdery Iris. Black peppercorn mixed with Vetiver are intertwined in its heart with wonderful proportions - neither too spicy or woody. Leather & Vanilla are present only as a supporting role creating depth. Showcases Vetiver in its element rounded out with chanel-ade. Divine.

I had been debating this purchase for a couple years. I am an over sprayer and 200ml bottles are my favorite size so, a tiny 15ml bottle seems a waste for me. I do not regret my purchase. I have many, many fragrances. When people visit my house and see my collection, they always ask “which is your favorite?” I suppose this gem will be my answer from now on. I have the EDP and I do love it but the Parfum just feels deeper, richer and a bit more feminine. The addition of Iris and vanilla is intoxicating. I will purchase this over and over.

As soon as this gets released in a bottle that isn’t a 15 mL dabber, I’m done. I probably won’t ever buy another fragrance except this. What I’m trying to say is that it’s game over for vetiver fragrances, and also for my wallet. This is the best vetiver I’ve ever experienced and it’s been three days and I can still smell it on the test strip. Smooth, perfectly textured, creamy vetiver bliss. A must try for anyone even remotely interested in vetiver. Ugh.

The parfum scent profile is more fresh floral woody and less smoky compared to the EDP verison. It overall has a richer and more rounded scent profile that leans a bit feminine compared to the unisex EDP. TBH, I was originally turned away from EDP's strong smoky profile until I discovered this beauty. I highly recommend the parfum. It also has better lasting power and longevity. Projection is not as strong as EDP.

My first drops from my extrait today--opened so carefully to keep the black cord intact so it always looks new. This is sooo gorgeous--powdered iris sitting on a smoked vetiver nest. I love No 19 vintage extrait--but this might be how I was always supposed to smell--I see hoarding in my future. For me (a very pink pale woman) this is feminine--I think the EDP is more masculine. I highly recommend.

This is beautiful. For me there are the obvious similarities between La Pausa & Misia. Smoky, earthy vetiver rounded out with the vanilla, orris & violet. All 3 fragrances are blended into one. There are hints of No.19 extrait as well. The blending & top quality materials used, the presentation is gorgeous. 10/10

I echo everyone’s thought on this. (For me) it doesn’t project at all. I kind of have to huff it. That said, it’s worth every penny (which is a lot of pennies.) The beauty of this is game-over for me. The eyes rolling back into your head kind of scent. Sublime.

It’s beautiful. You can probably Find another woody scent for Less. But it is gorgeous⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Tested the extrait today in a boutique side by side with the eau de parfum. The pure parfum is absolutely lovely and it is somewhat novel to see vetiver getting the silky-smooth extrait treatment from Chanel. To me, the overall scent profile is fundamentally the same as the eau de parfum, but with a considerably different "texture." That is to say, there is nothing pushed to extremes or notes exaggerated to out of sorts proportions from the original (i.e. smokiness intensified, earthy rootiness blasted up, the grapefruit aspect of vetiver highlighted, etc.). If anything, its all a bit blunted and smoothed out by a velvety orris root-like sensation. I do detect a vanillic sweetness as well in that orris note, but not exceptionally more vanilla than the original, which feels like it must have a hint of vanillin in it as well. Perhaps what feels most different is that the slight raspy woodiness of iso e super from the EDP is toned down here. This is beautiful and I love it quite a lot, but I'm not sure it's different enough to warrant purchasing if you own and are happy with the EDT or EDP. Of course, Sycomore fanatics with cash to spare should rejoice and purchase this more elegant interpretation for more intimate/contemplative moods. I myself wish that some aspect of the scent had been exaggerated and thrown into relief of the rest of the scent more strongly--perhaps smokiness or some sense of leather. My favorite Chanel extraits offer that more refracted interpretation--i.e. the more highly concentrated sensual ambery-ness and vanilla of the Cuir de Russie extrait, the more animalic and intriguing labdanum note complicating the Coromandel extrait, helping to transform an otherwise smooth, beautiful, but somewhat tame scent. Really, smelling this makes me yearn for extraits of more exclusives like La Pausa, Rue Cambon, and Boy that are fine tuned to highlight some of those scents' more sublime features. I've seen formulas drawn from GCMS analyses of La Pausa and Sycomore EDP and they have quite a lot in common--namely a lot of vetiver, Iso E Super, sandalwoody notes, and some other things...the more I smell them side by side, the more I imagine that Sycomore extrait, with its loftier levels of orris notes, is probably the closest we'll have to La Pausa extrait at the moment. I do wish I had the disposable income to purchase this elegant interpretation of vetiver!

I Purchased this today. It's warm, enveloping, and the vanilla lends a bit of depth. No sweetness in sight. It feels wiser, quieter, and more thoughtful than either the edt or the edp

I blind-bought a bottle of this, having missed out on the chance to purchase a bottle of the EdT before it was so disastrously reformulated to EdP. I loved the EdT for its play in contrasts, its ability to reveal shadows and light, freshness and smokiness, angles and curves. The EdT captured the feeling of summer transitioning to autumn, of awakening on a chilly beach in the quiet opalescent moments just before dawn, with the sea indistinguishable from the sky and the embers of a now-cold driftwood bonfire scenting the air. The extrait is a deeper and richer interpretation of the original that, while beautiful, does not evoke the same complexity as the EdT. The opening is promising and is classic Chanel, with just a trace of something aldehydic that throws the notes into prismatic relief. The effect is gone within minutes, and the scent remains a linear yet beautifully balanced combination of vetiver, orris, and leather that, to my nose, evokes the far drydown of the No. 19 extrait. I agree fully with BostonScentGuy that the extrait left me wanting something more, something to challenge my conception of the fragrance. The current Chanel extraits test the boundaries of the composition, pushing one or two components to their limits to create a shift in perspective. Experiencing the fragrance from this new angle often leads to a different understanding of and deeper appreciation for the lighter formulations. Before experiencing their extraits, I had never really noticed the dried-rose note in No. 19, the boozy vanilla in Bois des Iles, or the sticky beeswax in No. 22. While the overall impression of Sycomore extrait is different from the EdT or EdP, I didn't learn anything new about the fragrance from experiencing it. Its elegance borders on complacency, draining the vitality and complexity from the fragrance. If the EdT was a late night spent on a beach under the stars, the extrait is an early night spent tucked in plush eiderdown. Finally, a word on projection: I applied the extrait VERY generously on exposed pulse points and went outdoors in 80-something degree weather, but I forgot that I was wearing it after around an hour. I had to bring my wrists a few inches in front of my nose to detect anything. Perhaps the performance will improve in cold weather. I agree with leatherorrisviolet about the value proposition on offer here - this one is definitely for the collectors, as well as those who missed out on the EdT and want to recapture a small piece of what was lost.

My bottle arrived today. Damn it was tough to get open lol. Also, damn this bottle is so tiny!!! You don’t understand how tiny this bottle is just by watching YouTube videos. I wouldn’t be surprised if Chanel hands out sample bottles of Allure Homme Sport in this size for free. This... was not free. This was $280. But I digress. I am trying this on one pulse point and the EDP on another pulse point. This was my first time trying any version of Sycomore (I have not tried the EDT) So here’s what I get: the opening of the Parfum is surprising soapy, light, and unisex, but don’t worry cause it starts to deepen in complexity and scent profile almost immediately. The comparisons to Encre Noire, Vetiver Tonka, and Diptyque Vetyverio EDP are spot on, which is expected (I’ve heard about Sycomore for years). That being said, I think I prefer Sycomore Parfum to any other vetiver fragrance I have ever tried. It does not project like an Encre Noire fragrance, but let’s be completely honest here: do you really want this type of scent to shout? This scent profile is not a panty dropper scent profile, it’s a contemplative scent profile for a quiet, thinking man. Seeing this parfum shimmer on your skin for hours is thrilling. Everything about this product screams quality. Is it worth the money? It depends on where you’re at on this journey and what your goal is. For me personally, I just wanted a collectors item that I could use sparingly on a whim. I already own every Encre Noire, Vetiver Tonka, Le Labo Cuir, TdH, Grey Vetiver, Guerlain Vetiver, etc. I purchased Sycomore Parfum because the whole concept is dope. Typically Chanel only does 15 ml Parfum bottles for their very feminine releases, so for them to do one for Sycomore is a decision seemingly out of left field. If you are kind of new to this hobby and just want an everyday vetiver fragrance, get Mugler Cologne and Encre Noire Sport. You won’t appreciate Sycomore Parfum because Sycomore Parfum is like a rare Macallan when all you are asking for is a bottle of Jack. And there’s no shame in that whatsoever. Regarding the EDP, it smells useless compared to the Parfum and is a total pass. When all of those fragrances that i mentioned above already exist, Sycomore EDP just doesn’t have any justification for its existence. Encre Noire is superior and is $30. If you love vetiver and love collecting, you need to get Sycomore Parfum. Full stop.

It’s Sycomore edp, but creamier and rounder. I’d honestly be hard-pressed to pick out any specific notes that makes it different than the edp. Everything is used judiciously, merely to make the overall texture softer. Love it. I prefer this over the edp, but they’re both excellent. So happy I got to score a bottle. I stopped doing blind buys a while ago, but I had no choice since I couldn’t test it anywhere. Best blind buy I ever made.

For anyone out there looking for unavailable original Sycomore EDT - Parfum is the closest and the only available thing to OG you can get. Beautiful, woody, smoky with some aldehydes cloud hanging around the vetiver theme. I think it’s also quite transparent, especially when it comes to the concentration. Excellent longevity, very good projection (for an extract). If I didn’t own the EDT I’d probably buy an extract.

Good luck y'all its probably as limited as the Coromandel Parfum which I could never find anywhere it vanished as quickly as it was launched unbelievable!