Maroc

Maroc is a chameleon of a perfume. Starts out as a primitive concept of what we know today as a rose/oudh accord, becomes a spicy oriental and ends like a herbal chypre. What a journey this is! Review based on the pure perfume spray from the original 80’s version by Ultima II. Musk rose is the star here. But the first few minutes smell of rich red roses with a very earthy patchouli. It smells, in an abstract way, like a rose oudh perfume. Attar preferably. But it doesn’t take long for it to deviate and become more of a spicy oriental; the rose softens, spices come into play, the civet becomes quite noticeable and the honey adds more dimension. It doesn’t go Opium or Youth Dew, but it does approximate it. The honey reminds me of a lighter Teatro Alla Scala. It really blooms in this stage, becoming sweet and enveloping. As it starts to dry down, the spiciness dissipates and a chypre feel surfaces. Herbal, in the vein of Aromatics but with still a spicy twist. The oakmoss makes its presence known, the civet lingers on skin and it feels like I’m a Woodstock hippy that lives somewhere classy. It smells like a million bucks. And in this long drydown, the star of the show becomes the famed Moschata Rose, or rosehip. Musk rose. With a slight lemony twist reminiscent of geranium and green leaves. It oscillates between clean/soapy, spicy/jammy and chypre/animalic oriental. Every whiff and sniff shows a different side to it. Multifaceted and complex, a real showstopper. Goes without saying that vintage lovers are going to absolutely love it, and those of us who also love 60’s, 70’s and 80’s powerhouses consider it a masterpiece. Worthy of having, it warrants eBay searches for a bottle or two. Outstanding sillage and longevity! Sisley’s Soir de Lune is a worthy successor and replacement for this almost unavailable beauty. I’ve found a spray of Paloma and a spray of Soir de Lune make for a cunningly close dupe.

Maroc is resplendent in honeyed rose and musky woods, a sumptuous affair that intersects between the opulent amber styles that reached critical mass in the mid 80s and a return to the time-tested herbal-mossy chypre. The result is impressive, with the addition of a leafy geranium and earthy patchouli imparting flesh and depth recalling Aromatics Elixir and a coriander that echoes the distinct astringency of Jean Couturier Coriandre. However, Maroc is anything but derivative in its design. Some notable aspects are its textured dryness contrasting with the sour jamminess of the rose, its enveloping bloom, and a titillating animalic sillage. As it states on the packaging, Maroc is "inspired by the moschata—the musk rose—from the Mediterranean coast of Morocco." Rosa moschata, its latin name, has a scent profile somewhat similar to that of the Chinese rose, or Rosa rugosa, yet far richer in profile. Its snowy white inflorescences bring forth an intoxicating deep rose scent with musky undertones (hence its name), with clove and amber undertones. In Maroc, a convincing approximation has been achieved and I am convinced of the quality ingredients as are extolled on the box—"essences from Morocco, blended in France." As with all else from the folded Charles Revson brand Ultima II, Maroc is long out of production and has a cult following, with even Irma Shorell having attempted to reconstruct it through a "Long Lost Perfume" version. However, if one is sold on the idea that this is their possible holy grail, vintage bottles often come up from not-so-obscene prices. Be prepared to be confronted with a pressurized atomizer, though, and go easy on the trigger, as this precious potion should not be squandered!

This is the glory of the giant rose in YSL’s Paris, transported out of the spring rain and into the driest, hottest possible climate. After a kind of rough aldehydic opening, my bottle takes me to a private North African garden baking in the mid afternoon sun. There’s a wisp of a breeze and the intermittent chirping of an insect. Other than that, it’s quiet, with everyone resting in the heat. The smell is of clean, hot and dry earth with ROSE and intermittent hits of jasmine. The sun starts to weaken and the herbal aspects come to the fore. Absolutely stunning olfactory story telling. This doesn’t smell anything like Alaïa Paris, but does engender a similar sense of place. I second @alphairone ‘s warning about the sprayer — it’s criminally easy to overspray. I suspect mine might also stain clothes. I also have a dab tester, but I can’t discern much from it. I don’t know if my spray bottle was particularly well preserved or if it’s just so well made it lasts. Perhaps both. Spectacular. Top 10 for me.

This is one of the only true chypre fragrances I wear. It is perfect when the mood strikes me. My bottle is the old Ultima II formulation in a little flat round pebble shaped bottle. It is a rich scent and only takes a spray. A friend back in the early 90's wore this perfume and I just loved it on her. It wasn't my cup of tea at the time but it is now! So glad I didn't pass it on! To me it's a great fragrance to wear during cool days. This an Private Collection are my best in show for this category. Refreshing to my senses! Edit: Testing Agent Provocateur on one wrist and Maroc on the other, these two could be sisters. AP being the youngest sister with a tiny bit more sharpness yet more flowery and lighter in mood. Maroc is fuller and has a bit more depth. They are both really elegant and classy fragrances for a classy wearer.

Maroc Ultima II was exclusively blended in France of high quality essential oils which included Moschata rose, rose maroc, rose otto, jasmine maroc and rich undertones of patchouli, ambergris, musk and mousse de chene. I have and remember this luscious fragrant perfume Maroc by Ultima ll this perfume is stunning and so long lasting it's a shame to have discontinued such a Beautiful floral woody rose chypre! Top notes: bergamot, honey Middle notes: geranium, jasmine, orris, Moschata rose, rose maroc, rose otto, jasmine maroc Base notes: ambergris, patchouli, vetiver, civet, oakmoss, rosewood and musk Ooh shout out let's not forget the gorgeous spokesmodel for ad campaign legendary Kim Alexis!