Underworld

The Underworld perfume is part of the initial collection of photographer and perfumer Christèle Jacquemin, who launched three fragrances in 2019 and, right away, was nominated for the Art and Olfaction Awards 2020, in the artisan category. Underworld was born through the collection of photographs that the artist took during frequent trips between Barcelona, where she lived, and Paris, where she went to study perfumery. The path taken by the shadows, until they reach the light, served as inspiration for this composition. The fragrance of Underworld brings notes of cumin, cardamom, and pepper, in the head; Carrot seeds, patchouli, and vetiver, in the body; Mimosa, tuberose, and frankincense, in the base. It is floral and spicy, bringing accords full of contrast and uniqueness. As soon as it is applied on the skin, it presents a spicy and aromatic output. The carrot seeds give a more earthy appearance, which gains even more reinforcement with the presence of vetiver. The patchouli note tries to balance it with woodier nuances, but I don't feel it was a successful effort. In Underworld, the floral base is noticeable from the beginning. And although tuberose is a flower with a polarizing tendency, when used in fragrances, in here it is the note of mimosa that dictates the rules. Its sweet and vibrant facets confront the cumin's spicy, then combine with the body notes and, then, exude together with the frankincense's smoke. Like Impermanence and Meandering Soul, the Underworld fragrance also has an Eau de Parfum concentration. However, on my skin, this one showed less projection. Still comparing, I believe that those looking for more differentiated fragrances will be satisfied with what they can find in this perfume. Underworld makes you enter into an unknown universe, even though you still live on this plane.

Looks like I saved the best for last; Underworld is my third sample from my discovery set this has a fresh, natural profile. The other scent from Christele Jacquemin I enjoyed was Meandering Soul. Both are unusual but oddly attractive. I can’t think of any other carrot dominant scent I own in my collection, and until testing this perfume I didn’t even realized I liked it. Like Meandering soul, I’m standing in an exotic kitchen but I can’t place where, eating fresh food and smelling the landscape, full of flowers, fresh air and herbs— I know that herbs aren’t listed, but Underworld has a spices and herbs feel. Ok, what are those spices and herbs: cardamom, pepper, fennel and mint, and of course what I’m presuming is carrot. Floral notes started to come out in the dry down. Base is more focused on powder and patchouli. I love this ethereal, mysterious place I’m transported too. Underworld is an appropriate name.

Christele's fragrances might not appeal to everyone, but it's hard to imagine that any true fragrance nut would overlook each fragrance's quality of composition. At least one full bottle is on the horizon due to the reasonable price point and uniqueness and beauty of each of Christele's fragrances (IMO, there's not really anything out there like them). I'm not one of those fragrance connoisseurs that can identify every note in a fragrance (other than the obvious amber, vanilla, tobacco, or patchouli notes), however, I can tell you that each of Christele's scents makes me happy - from each glorious spray to the interesting dry down. At least try the discovery set.

A hauntingly beautiful composition from Christèle Jacquemin. It's very pretty, yet slightly unsettling. Given the name, I'd have loved a little sprinkle of pomegranate in this to signify Persephone's link to the Underworld, but it gives more Hades than Persephone. There's a floral hint of her there in the base, but that earthy patchouli note is all Hades. Performance is great. It's long lasting with moderate to strong projection. The base of tuberose, mimosa and incense notes is spectacular. Perhaps it signifies the return of Persephone and Spring.

Stunning. So special. The carrot sparkles in the beginning and it evolves into a heady floral. The incense supports the heady tuberose and mimosa while patchouli and vetiver ground the floral punch. It is everything I love, blended beautifully. I appreciate how it wears so differently on the individual, my friend and his mother both tried it and it unfolded on their skin quite differently. This is an exciting characteristic of the fragrance, but because of that, I suggest that you do not blind buy :)