Comme des Garcons

Think of any fragrance you've ever sniffed that was reminiscent of syrupy resins, spiced honey, Chinese traditional medicine, sweet incense, thai tea, potpourri, or mulled wine, blend them all together, distill them into a thick smoldering sap, and you have a rough approximation of Comme Des Garcons' original EDP. A bone dry cinnamon and clove blend gives the opening a spiciness that almost comes across savory in its strength. It totally avoids any autumnal dessert connotations with sheer power. Shortly thereafter I begin to detect soft, warm florals, mostly rose and labdanum, with a pulsing undercurrent of desiccated fruit, maybe berries. As the umami of the opening wears off, the sweetness of the honey becomes more prominent and it makes it's way to the syrupy, golden drydown. It's mostly honey and resins and leftover spices (mostly cinnamon, but with the opening's edges worn off a bit), but theres still the floral edge, and a strong frankincense note that pushes it far out of gourmand territory into a more peppery, woody direction. It somehow does not become cloying despite it reaching slumberhouse-levels of critical density. The drydown will hang around for days if not scrubbed off, and as such this is probably the best CDG from a value perspective as one 50 ml bottle could easily last a few years. At first I didn't see the connection between this and the later direction CDG took, which I associate with post modern woody-incensey "futuristic" fragrances, but I think the more I discover within CDG EDP the more it seems to make sense. The subverting, boundary pushing spirit of the brand was certainly there from the first fragrance, but whereas the later work seems to revel in marrying the synthetic with the natural and the futuristic with the ancient, the early work was more about pushing the concept of olfactory warmth, density, and medicinalia to its absolute limit. Its also impressive how much of a conceptual leap seemed to occur between the original EDP and CDG2. TL;DR: A deep, dense masterpiece. 10/10

This one is the perfect example of "Don't be misled by the opening if you test it." The fact is I don't really dislike the opening, I actually like the smell, but I find it weird to wear pure cinnamon, but that's my personal opinion. I mean that's weird for me to smell something that you usually eat ! (exception for coffea, chocolate and vanilla, which are usual so it doesn't shock so much) So, I was going to catalog it on my dislikes. But, because there's one, the drydrown is way more complex, surprising and original. The cinnamon stays throughout the life of the perfume on your skin, but less present, less agressive. And this one is for me a REALLY 3 sides perfume. Top > Cinnamon, and cinnamon with cinnamon. And a very light "medicine" combo (cloves and cardamom) ... almost undectable. The main defect of the composition... Cinnamon is way too strong at the beginning ! Heart > Becomes interesting. Cinnamon less sharp, delicate flowers appears, making a clean break, resulting an oriental/floral side, both soft and spiced, unexpected and make it very unisex. Bottom > The true originality and interest of this marvel. "Don't judge a book by its cover" is so true with this one. Cinnamon, again, but on a background this time, on a sweety way this time, thanks to the honey. The flowers still here, leading the way now ! (To my nose, rose and geranium first, despite the small number on votes) Accompagnied with the cyprus incense, hallmark of the brand. Voila, a very deep, complex and extremely-built perfume, a masterpiece that should not be smelled in a hurry. You have to take your time to discover what this perfume really is ! Don't be fooled by the cover, smell the perfume as if you read a story crescendo. I really don't know if the bad opening (imo) is a default or a quality... Because thanks to it, the surprise is much more bigger after. But well, the opening could daunting one. (As it was almost the case for me)

sheer CHAI TEA with no milk and no sugar... very strong the first hour, then it stays forever a bit more subdued but still heavy. I like this a lot but can't think of it as a strange or wow original scent... it's indeed a powerhouse ( the balmy aspect makes it milder though which helps a lot to make it actually wearable). I can see that perhaps this was "new" in 1994, but still... it's a very recognizable smell... a handful of cloves and cinammon sticks all together with a clear sandal base. Go and smell a strong chai tea and that's exactly this! Exotic but too common place... not bizarre at all. Now... although I quite like it and find it somehow attractive, I think this is not for everyday's use nor for everyone... you should give it a few testings before you buy. It may stay for years on your perfume cabinet otherwise. I think this works better in winter but it should bear some interest in hotter moments as well... don't feel intimidated by the first moments, it gets much milder. Still... unlike some other orientals (or chypre in this case) this has no versatility... it's plain spicy chai and you'll have to work hard to wear it and give it your own allure instead of it wearing you... look at that walking cinammon tea there! or "look at that hot clove bomb there!"

To imagine that Comme des Garçons flagship fragrance was released in 1994, the year of Versace Blue Jeans, CK One and L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme. Yet, this was also the year of Lorenzo Villoresi's Spezie, L'Artisan's Premier Figuier, and the legendary Iris Silver Mist. The realm of niche perfume could be seen on the horizon, and I can only imagine the sheer excitement of scents so leftfield and dare I say avant garde, as this one. The bottle itself, the first in a series of emblematic pebbles from CDG, must've alone been striking, but then to be greeted with this Faberge Organics Pure Wheat Germ Oil and Honey Shampoo blast that is so nostalgic and addictive to my nose: "it was so good I told two friends about it, and they told two friends, and so on and so on and so on." The opening has super shine, super body, but the "so on and so on" is a glow that tapers into a drier, yet still sticky clove and cinnamon, a smoky cardamom and peppery geranium. With the dry down feeling like a hot toddy, calmer and more sheer, with an incense undertone (which would become a CDG hallmark), the original CDG is a soothing tonic for cold winter days. It is a must for both lovers of honey and spice. Kudos to Mark Buxton for being one of the pioneers in niche perfume.

Is it discontinued? Really hard to find now (at least in Europe, even at the DSM eshop it's not referenced anymore...); that would be such a shame! That was my signature for several years back in the late nineties. I didn't wear it often since, but I've always kept a bottle with me and I like to smell it times to times. it doesn't smell like anything else, and unlike other CDGs, it seems to be less synthetic, with a more natural aspect. According to my girlfriend at that time, the scent seemed to melt completely into my skin, into my own scent. Maybe a bit harsh at first, it quickly evolves into something warm & spicy, perfectly blend. with a less trained nose at that time, I thought there was some lavender oil in it but now I believe that what I perceived was the geranium and rose notes. I think it gives to the wearer a signature that is refined, original, modern and bold at the same time, with a "speculoos biscuit- like touch that is very exhilarating to smell on the skin. Plus, the seminal design of the bottle is the best of all the CDG collection. My first one was the non-spray one, with a smaller cap, wonderful imo. (I’m sad I didn't keep it). Please Comme des Garçons, keep this jewel still available!