Diorissimo

Smelling the pre-1970 versions of Diorissimo is said to be an unforgettable experience... if it's in good condition, as the top notes of this eau de toilette are particularly fragile. My review concerns a 1994 bottle in pretty good shape. Roudnitska developed this fragrance in 1953, starting with a lily-of-the-valley accord (no essence can be extracted from this flower, at least not at a viable cost). Legend has it that he spent a lot of time on his hands and knees sniffing the blooming lilies of the valley in his garden to fully understand their scent. The scent of this flower is fresh, airy, watery, floral (with a slight hint of jasmine), and crisp green with hints of lemon and melon. It is reconstructed using various natural and synthetic ingredients, such as hydroxycitonellal (now highly regulated), lilial, and terpinol. At the same time, according to Micheal Edwards, Roudnitska decided to work against the trend of the time. Perfumers were using a very large number of molecules in their compositions. They used several synthetic materials introduced into their palette at the end of the 19th century, some of which had a relative harshness. To soften this harshness, they used sweet notes of vanilla, fruit, and other flavors. According to Roudnitska, this “gustative” tangent went too far, and he decided to return to the scents of nature and to simplification, stylization, and transparency, without denying synthetic molecules. In 1955, he succeeded in creating a convincing lily-of-the-valley accord, which he presented to Dior, for whom this flower was a fetish. Dior asked Roudnitska to make it his house's next fragrance, making this the third collaboration between the two designers. It is said that Diorissimo is the only soliflore in the history of perfumery to have survived to this day. If it has reached us, it is undoubtedly due to the richness and sophistication of its orchestration. It is indeed more than a lily of the valley soliflore—and incidentally one of the most successful ever made. And according to Roudnitska, this success is due to the fact that he achieved a "stylization"of lily-of-the-valley. Lilly-of-the-valley is present in all stages of the perfume (especially when sprayed on fabric), but the fragrance evolves quite a bit during this olfactive journey. It ends up in a beautiful base composed of jasmine, sandalwood and civet. But civet is absent from recent reformulations and, in my opinion, it is this animal material which is (was) the most interesting in Diorissimo: it created an opposition between the fresh, the pure, the airy vs the warm, the sensual and the carnal. Thomas Dunckley, a perfume critic, summed up the difference well: “Diorissimo in its current formulation is pleasant and pretty, but somewhat unmoving. Vintage Diorissimohowever, well that’s another story. Vintage Diorissimo is utterly mind-blowing.” And it's this final accord that languidly clings to the skin that makes me addicted to the 90's version I got my hands on.

to those whining on the comments, this is the stub for the Vintage formulations (clock the eternal note pyramid & civet being banned for some time, this for real). If you are looking for the current diluted toilet water versions, prepare to be underwhelmed and search for the Creations de Monsieur versions of Diorissimo, edp and edt are both shite. Oh mayne, I gots a herstory to tell. My family was able to own several iterations of this formulation ages ago, I usually stole It from my grandma, diorissimo cologne with a slight redesign on pied de poule, diorissimo with gilded letters and bottle without carvings, gilded letters and stained glass bottle, diorissimo with stickers on a square-ish bottle (with corners, yes!) and no spray nozzle, pink sticker, and the last iteration to ever Grace my hands: bottle with White sticker & gold letters. I thought my greasy fingers had reached their opus when I was finally able to purchase one of my own, unfortunately only Creations de Monsieur EDPedo was available for purchase at the time (2014/15?). And I say "pedo" because its staying power is fleeting as a fart in spanish, It smells generic, watered down and is just downright screechy instead of creamy and radiating. Instead of a massive white floral perfume that radiates, It smelled like a 1 hr soap sensation. Just as a testament of how low quality the Creations de monsieur editions actually are, the perfume's alcohol dried the plastic that holds the nozzle in place, and It broke off the bottle completely, leaving me with the nozzle in one hand and the bottle of perfume on the other. I was able to only use half a bottle before It died on me - I was really bummed out, haven't been able to rock my "signature fragrance" ever since, went to other places mentally, like meh'dore and mehbrielle essence. Last week I Saw a vintage going for sale and took the plunge, I cant wait to smell this conoction in all its former Glory. Its the bottle with the White sticker and no carvings - pre 2010 I assume, still great batch! And if you read my papyrus and still are wondering how the current versions of Diorissimo could ever hold a candle to OG Diorissimo, girl what can I say - try to get the vintage version, it's all EDT but they kick like a radioactive mugler EDP. Dior vintage is always top notch, their current formulas are hot garbage. edit: she arrived! nozzle smells like a wet dirty fur coat, disgustang! It stank, but as long as you don't smell It up close it's all good 💖 sprayed this in the afternoon, went to sleep, woke Up and my arm still had a faint Diorissimo scent! Ahhh I'm so Happy! The opening literally breaks my nose every time so I try to be gentle with the sprays.

This review is for a BNIB sealed 1960s-era white bow label bottle that I was fortunate enough to find! It appears to have been kept in ideal conditions because the liquid is still pale. EDP concentration. On longevity/sillage: when unsealing the bottle, I managed to dip an end of the pink thread from around the neck into the perfume. That was more than 24 hours ago, and this tiny scrap of thread is still radiating scent! Two dabs from the stopper on each arm is plenty. It opens with an interestingly sappy/green feeling, but there's nothing sharp or crisp about it. It's almost creamy, but still decidedly green. Within 5-10 minutes, this blooms into a big golden-tinted lily of the valley bomb. It's rounded and sunny and a little dense -- not airy/watery at all. I do get a little of that sparkling/champagne bubble right at the edges but it's subtle. It has a velvety, golden texture that reminds me a little of the most recent iteration of J'Adore Absolu (2019). You can't help but see honeyed sunlight radiating through the forest canopy and dappling the LoTV below. The golden LoTV continues all the way and is joined by a very smooth, gentle, soapy softness. This might be the civet coming in -- I have very limited experience yet with that note, as far as I know. There's a refined animalic sense accompanying it so it's likely. The effect is of just soaped skin and it's beautiful. It's truly a scent that transcends time. It doesn't feel at all dated, but it also manages to transport me almost viscerally to an earlier time and a beautiful place. I can see how the recent formulations have tried to recreate this scent. The EDT (my sample of it is from around 8 years ago, so not the most recent) captures the gentle soapiness in the dry down, but has a more astringent opening, and on me the LoTV is fleeting. The EDP (again ~8 years old) is somehow both dense and astringent, but I think comes closer to the golden middle part of this formulation thanks to the jasmine. Neither captures the sappy green opening or the intense lily of the valley that radiates throughout the vintage, and neither has the velvety cloud effect. I have a houndstooth mini splash that reads like a diet version of the 1960s vintage -- similar, but again lacking that expansive, velvety heart.

Diorissimo, created by the legendary perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in 1956 for Christian Dior, is a fragrance that embodies the pure beauty and elegance of nature. A true classic in the world of perfumery, Diorissimo captures the delicate, fresh, and green essence of lily of the valley, making it one of the most iconic floral fragrances in history. The opening of Diorissimo is a breath of fresh air, as it immediately introduces the sparkling and crisp lily of the valley note, which takes center stage throughout the fragrance. This note is wonderfully radiant and dewy, evoking the sensation of walking through a spring garden in full bloom. It is not overpowering, but rather soft and elegant, creating an impression of purity and innocence. As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a more complex composition, with subtle layers of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and muguet (a variant of lily of the valley) that add depth and richness to the floral bouquet. These notes harmonize beautifully, allowing the lily of the valley to remain the dominant theme while offering a sense of sophistication and refinement. The base of Diorissimo is grounded with delicate, soft musk, sandalwood, and a hint of amber, providing a light, powdery finish that adds an air of warmth and comfort without detracting from the freshness of the florals. These base notes ensure that the fragrance has remarkable longevity, allowing it to linger on the skin with an elegant and soft sillage. Diorissimo is the epitome of a floral fragrance, capturing the essence of spring with a timeless grace. Its light and airy nature make it perfect for daytime wear, especially during warmer months. The fragrance is uplifting, joyful, and effortless, yet still retains a sophisticated air that makes it appropriate for more formal occasions or any time you want to evoke a sense of refined femininity. Though it has been a staple in the Dior collection for decades, Diorissimo remains as relevant and beloved today as it was when it was first launched. Its combination of simplicity and complexity, freshness and depth, makes it a fragrance that will continue to captivate and enchant perfume lovers for generations to come.

I have been wanting Diorissimo for a long time.I wanted to use up some other perfumes before I bought it, but I knew,or thought I knew, what it smelled like, so I ordered it on-line. I was surprised when it came. It didn't smell like Diorissimo to me. I understand from reviews that it, like others has been changed, reformulated. So I ordered an older bottle from ebay. So here goes, white box, pink label, new bottle of EDT. First blast is strong,fresh & green. A grassy green, maybe a little synthetic,but fresh. Then after a few minutes it settles into LOTV and jasmime,with lilac in the background,it stays this way for about an hour or two,pretty but linear,it doesn't seem to change on my skin. Then it seems to fade away. Older bottle of EDT,pink box,white label,bottle also has a white label. I think it is from 1990's maybe 2000's. First blast is softer,more floral, but still green and fresh. After a few minutes it becomes creamer, softer, but still floral. The LOTV and jasmine are there,pretty & soft,they seem to warm on my skin becoming more feminine. The newer bottle is OK but not what I remembered,the older bottle is more what I was thinking & it lasts a good four or five hours. It does become a little soapy in the dry down,but I love soapy. So what to do? Dior is not cheap. The white box cost more than the pink box & and both were fairly expensive. I decided to wear both. I first spray the new bottle and then over that,I spray the vintage. I also use the parfum extract on my pulse points & wala!I have the closest thing to the Diorissimo that I remembered years ago. I would also like the purchase the vintage perfume some time in the future, but it will have to wait,as I have blown my perfume budget for now. All of the reviews were a big help,but EmeraldDreams really helped me know what to look for on ebay. Thanks Emerald