Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorama

The modern version of Diorama. I expected some kind of thin,synthetic mess. Most classics are obliterated with regulations, profit margins and unskilled hands of a new perfumer. I am pleased to say I was wrong. The opening is a strong tarty bergamot with the bright yellow ylang. Jasmine follows up and asserts the floral identity. It was bright and of substance, and made this hardened vintage lover reminisce of other fragrances in the past that had similar openings. Truly a rare occurrence in these times. I had a moment where I thought I may have wondered into Niche territory. The familiar jasmine and rose begin to take over with a caraway note as an undercurrent. Plum and peach add the fruity echo from its past and adds body and dimension to the composition. This leans more floral than fruity floral. Please note as some of you reading this that its connection to Femme comes to mind..but its not full of cumin. The caraway hints at its past, but does not send it down that animalistic Femme path. Patchouli & cedar anchor modern Dioramas base. Modern regulations take its toll on Diorama here in the base as well as a lack of the famous prunol additive from the vintage. No oakmoss or animalics to weigh it down. It can be a good thing as these types are seen as outdated or out of vogue. The cost is longevity. Its a well tailored fragrance and Im off to get a bottle for the days I want a vintage feel but not its weight. In its class there is Femme, and Parfum de Therese. I feel this is a great middle option at its price point and design. It is interesting to note that Demachy studied under Roudnitska, so Demachy is a good candidate to keep Dioramas spirit intact. Works in Fall and spring. A little light for winter.

The IFRA regulations of 2009/2010 apparently hit Dior hard, since they decided to go radical and relaunch all their classics as Les Creations de Monsieur Dior. They are no longer crediting Edmond Roudnitska for the fragrances in this line, and that might be all for the best, since so many of them are changed beyond recognition. Luckily I am an innocent when it comes to Diorama. I never got the chance to try it before reformulation, and I am lucky I never did because I LOVE this version - and if I had to compare it to a past masterpiece, perhaps I wouldn't. Right away you get a longlasting, powdery yet distinct floral accord with jasmine, rose, peaches and plum that slowly settles in a lovely mellow woody base. It is a kind of summary of all fragrances I love: classical chypre, patchouli, floral, woody, and powdery. If I had to choose only one for a desert island this would be a contender, since it reminds me of all the perfumes I love.

This review is about the current Diorama reformulation, I have never tried the vintage one. I cannot smell a great deal of fruit in it: the most striking note for me is jasmine, followed by some spice (caraway, very distinguished) and leather notes (although they are not in the list). There is some animalic note, stronger at the beginning, more subtle as the fragrance develops on the skin. It surely would not fit everybody. I don't think it would suit a teenager, for sure. I can imagine it on a very classy and self-assured woman; it is sophisticated, intriguing, very different from the floral-fruity-vanilla things that are so popular in these days. I only wish it could last longer on my skin, it seems to go in about 3 hours, therefore I need to reapply it. Update: I found that, applying it not just on my skin but on my clothes also, its lasting power improve greatly. I could still smell it on myself after about 10 hours!

If all of God's creation is beauty then behold les creations de Monsieur Dior Diorama. She is truly breathtaking .. get a whiff and treasure this gem whilst you can. If you're not mature enough to appreciate this too bad. Yes its vintage and in the most beautiful way..you can tick all the accords listed above In a very profoundly nuanced way which I truly find intriguing this has some of the nostalgic smell of a cologne that mon père was very fond of and always used to cool my fever down whenever I was under the weather. Oh how relaxing it was to douse your handkerchief with it .. the aroma really soothed me .. This is another beautiful jasmin rose concoction. Very plummy and the ylang ylang caraway sweetens it further. Voluptuous is what comes to mind. Dior heritage definitely. Think of the new look couture/dresses.

Not as green-fresh as Diorella, more rubbery/leathery than Le Parfum de Therese (and thankfully, without the horrid tangerine note), Diorama sits in the golden middle owning the best qualities of both in being this fleshy, luminous jasmine-ylang sweetness framed by olfactory thinnest, fresh notes of spectrum (bergamot) and some more concrete and lascivious (caraway). It has Roudnitska's signature all over - despite of being current formulation - rubbery leather, carnal caraway, even the plum/peach combo is crafted so well in here, so I cannot help but to see this as the best possible essence of Monsieur Roudnitska: Femme Rochas-Diorella- LPdT synthesis. Since the original formulation is unavailable, all I can say for the current one is BRAVO, BRAVISSIMO!