Bois d’Ombrie

Bois d'Ombrie was one that I purchased on a whim way back in 2008, when my exploration with niche fragrances began. I dated someone who was not a fan of it, and not long afterwards, we weren't fans of each other any longer. Bois d'Ombrie could've been a litmus test, because I loved it now just as I loved it then. It has this fascinating collision of bitter green leafy, tannic woody notes with a damp, chewy tobacco, freshly unearthed carrots and facets that me of turmeric and yams. This also features a note of calamus, a wetland plant also referred to as "sweet flag", which exudes a peculiar, captivating oil that has mildly sweet, cinnamic facets, and an oily, waxy, buttery, nutty scent profile. It's really in a league of its own. Sadly, most essential oil in production comes from plants that contain beta-asarone, which may have carcinogenic properties (although the amount in calamus oil posing any danger is debatable). There is calamus grown in the US that does not contain it, but very little oil is produced from it. Here, master perfumer Bertrand Duchafour deftly reconstructs a calamus accord that is bolstered by orris (coming from the same family of plants) and adds this dimension to the saturated, rich tobacco in the heart of Bois d'Ombrie. While the notes pyramid may claim that there are cognac and whiskey notes, I really only get a suggestion of that from the peaty, loamy undertones. There is no bright, sharp alcoholic flushness at all that would assert "booziness" thankfully, because I am generally not a fan of that. A nuanced smokiness from the resins in the dry down are what shifts what is otherwise seemingly a linear fragrance, but I have no issue with this at all, because it is one of the most gorgeous tobacco-oriented fragrances I've smelled. Without any vanilla or honey that obscures tobacco into a sweeter, fluffier affair in many popular tobacco fragrances, here it is accompanied by elements that bring out its distinct aromatic, raw, wonderfully coarse qualities. Sadly, it has been discontinued by Eau d'Italie after so many years in production.

Amazing fragrance, strong and personal! It lasts for AGES and projects incessantly. I agree with all reviews in this case. First: it is indeed 90% similar to Dzongkha... although I find this one more wearable for a man than the artisan's. Both share that metallic edge and are great pieces of art imho. So I don't really mind the identical features (I would have loved to know it before acquiring both though... true... there is no need if you have one to own the other really...) but I'm happy with my purchase. This is one of those scents that can't escape from making a statement so don't just put it and go around with an innocent face...as if you just sprayed your any cologne on a summery day... you're guilty and it is sooo evident!: this might not even be seen by others as a "beautiful" scent but rather like a bomb that needs an attitude behind. I am completely certain this would work gorgeously on women just like Dzongkha does but again: not easy to wear for anyone unless you're prepared for its charms (which to me are more of an intellectual kind...) I find that it would make anyone seem interesting but also a bit distant... aloof even. Iris is a very complicated note since it is hardly inviting or cosy... it pleases from coldland. Please sample before buying. But do me a favour: sample! On a last note: tacky bottle... it looks ok on pictures but it is sooo ugly... like cheap shampoo with a paper sticker on it losing its glue from the very first spray... no no! But again, the scent itself: oh yes yes!!!

Ah, Bois d'Ombrie - my dark, shadowy love! This perfume was the first time that I, a small curly-haired lady, fell in love with a leather/smoky/masculine scent. So much so that I found myself spraying my sweaters, my blankets, my skin - everything, just so I could smell this all day. The cognac, whiskey, carrot, and calamus are all there on first spray. The booze is neat, slightly bitter, blending with the green-earthiness of the carrot and calamus. Underneath is orris root, patchouli and vetiver (more earthy-green, but with a dusty powdery quality), leather and tobacco smoke, ashy incense, and resins. My first thought when I put it on was - "this smells like the inside of a fireplace in a wealthy gentleman's library, or.... maybe a campfire in a grassy meadow at night...with booze" and also "...why do I like this?" Maybe because it smells like you took a bunch of expensive ingredients and then burned them in a bonfire outside, with smoke spiralling towards the sky as an offering to the Gods. It feels luxe and special. But also comforting, like your granddad's old tweed jacket, but, like, his *favourite* jacket that he wears out in the countryside everyday. There's nothing dated or synthetic smelling about it. It's just pure, beautiful nature. On fire. At nighttime. I can't live without it - please never take it away! ps. have just seen it is discontinued. How sad for the world!

A stunning opening, with a strong balsamic green bitter note, supported by a subtle boozy note. It then slowly morphs into a more classic - but perfectly executed - damp, green-ish tobacco note, supported by resins, especially myrrh and frankincense, giving a subtle smokiness, and a patchouli/iris combo, giving earthiness and powderiness. Like if I sticked my nose in a suede pouch with fresh moist rolling tobacco. I don't really understand the choice of the name (aside of the opening, maybe?). Anyways, I am not afraid to say that this is probably the most beautiful tobacco-centered fragrance I've ever smelt. Here, there is no interference of vanilla, honey or other useless sweeteners, just a beautiful tobacco. One of my most successful blind buys, even if I wish that the performance was improved. Well... no one is perfect, right? Unisex leaning (slightly masculine), but a woman could pull this one off easily. I own ~200 fragrances, and this one immediately skyrocketed in my top 10. Highly recommended, to who looks for a meditative and perfectly tailored fragrance. Young crowds aiming at mainstream sugary/beast mode crowdpleasers are invited to look elsewhere (and leave this one to who is able to appreciate it at its full value). Spring/Fall evenings, 30+

An outstanding boozy concoction of leather, tobacco & orris. As dry as a desert and totally refined. I can't say I've ever smelt anything quite like this before. The boozy blast of cognac in the opening is an outright jaw dropper, as is the cigar-esque/humidor note which persists throughout. The leather in this is also something to behold and when it's joined in the middle phase by a rootsy orris, some very subtle olibanum/myrrh and a dirty patchouli note, you sure know that you're in the presence of greatness. A woodsy note of dry vetiver emerges in the dry down, as does a hint of licorice, which doesn't appear in the official notes, but is present to my beak. Definitely a scent for dressed up evenings in my opinion, this wonderfully weird fragrance is sure to set you apart from the crowd on such occasions. I adore tobacco scents and the note in this one, along with that in Tobacco Oud are my all time favorites. Bois d'Ombrie somehow manages to straddle the line between elegant refinement and intriguing weirdness with skill & precision. Yet another example of the mastery possessed by Bertrand Duchaufour. High class and a must for lovers of tobacco/leather scents. Quite outstanding indeed!