Vivara (1965)

Vintage from the "I love" shelf. First it gives me a cheerful chypre, and I'm falling in love with it... Gradually, the scent gets nice, subtle leather. And, oh, the flowers are so nice, too! Here's some soft jasmine, a cultured rose, and here's light summer wind, blowing and bringing lily-of-the-valley aroma with it, and here's a carnation, no, not just one flower, but a number of flowerbeds. Oh, and what's this? The sun is ruthless, and it fries... yes, it fries some tarpaulin. And here is the sea! The real, living, breathing, huge sea, with the seaweeds, and the sun, and the seagulls, and the sand, and, yes, the sea salt. It is so wonderful! But the evening's coming... Time to go back, to the hotels and civilisation. The air's getting filled with flower scents again. A leather bag on my shoulder, and smells of the sea cling to it, as the sea is getting further and further away. I'm walking. The sand under my feet... And the sea is rustling behind me.

Another day, another 60s green chypre. Where do I stop? Well, if I stop where the variant of this genre consists of a fermented peach and banana oil ylang-ylang, then Vivara is my coup de grâce. This is a unique take on a style we find in such hallowed favorites as Azuree, Fidji, and Miss Balmain. Beyond the aldehydes and green bite, there is this humidity and herbaceousness to the florals that are imbued with pepper and spices in the heart. The latter half of the development is far earthier and more leathery, almost rubber-like, with a fondant of moss. Most salient however is the costus—ooh la la. It's what makes Vivara feel more carnal than its contemporaries. The way it blooms on a rainy spring day such as today as I wear it: chef's kiss. Bring your bumbershoot, put on your wellies, don some Vivara on your pulse points, and you are ready to face the world in style.

This was one of my absolute favourites in the '70s, a gorgeous floral chypre...I used to think that when I removed the cap, the bottle radiated sunshine. I used to buy the Eau de parfum in a small squarish bottle, it was one of those delicious scents that you wanted to immerse yourself in. There was a freshness amongst the floral, no doubt an inclusion of citrus. To be honest, it's a struggle to fully recreate this in my mind, it's quite elusive and didn't have the impact of say a Joy, Jicky or Miss Dior...the earlier versions. I just remember how much I loved it, and how sunny a fragrance it was, if that makes any sense. This review is obviously for the original, and I note that there's a separate page for the reformulated version, which I have not experienced.

I have 2 lil' pursette sprays (those antique propellant-filled juices that ripped a hole in the ozone SURE are heavenly to apply!) Year unknown. Pretty swirly blue stickers and warnings that tell me not to light cigarettes near it. First impression: smells like Pleather, not Leather! Mildly powdery, honey/mimosa in the top and a VERY spicy heart. Like black pepper. Definitely feels Italian! Different enough from my other vintage Chypres to warrant a place in my collection without much justification (plus it's made to travel unlike my others, money well spent 😁) It DOES remind me of Miss Balmain, but maybe a bit less leathery and more sharply herbal. Glad I got my two little gems, I certainly plan to carry one in my purse, knowing there's a backup at home 💚

My go-to signature fragrance. I was first introduced to it as a member of one of those "fragrance of the month" clubs back in the early 70s. I just love how the scent develops on me. It starts green and fresh, then opens up and becomes very warm and sweet without being overly cloying or "too much." I've always gotten compliments when I wear it. I have a bottle of parfum given to me by an old boyfriend. The bottle is over 20 years old and will probably still be mostly full when I am no longer around. I use it very sparingly because I find it does have good staying power/sillage and is overpowering if you drown yourself in it.