Vivara (2007)

Scents like Coco Mademoiselle and Miss Dior Cherie have been declared the new modern chypres, however, for those who have smelled true vintage chypres, there's no real comparison. Vivara, on the other hand, is what a modern chypre should smell like -bitter, fresh, summery and sporty. It does not, thankfully, resemble the harsh leathery old Vivara of the 1960s but it still does have a distinctive chypre quality. What Vivara retains of vintage quality is a sharp dusty green accord, looking at the note pyramid is due to galbanum (which I love, and is very strong here), bergamot, vetiver, and patchouli. The vetiver is presumably replacing oakmoss in this formula, as far as the traditional chypre recipe goes. I think it works, as the vetiver makes the perfume fresher smelling than I think it otherwise would be had they stuck to tradition in making this. The two strongest notes for me are the galbanum, and bergamot. Might sound strange, but know how some people think Alien by Thierry Mugler smells "purple?" I don't know if it's due to the packaging, but Vivara smells as radioactively neon lime green as the juice does. The perfume softens over time with some florals (hard to tell which) and amaretto sweetening things up a tad bit. The amaretto is noticeable, but not very strong in this perfume if you were particularly interested in Vivara because of it. If you are wanting more of an Amaretto perfume I'd recommend Irresistible by Alkemia. Like I said, this perfume is only sweet enough to make it just barely more feminine than masculine - even then it's rather unisex. Men don't really compliment me on this, but lots of women have. Which I think is a good sign that this scent, despite how unusual and off-trend it is, is totally marketable. I don't really remember much advertising around the Vivara range, which is a shame, because I do think women would buy the 2007 Vivara based on the reactions I've had off of it if only they knew about it. I have never ever smelled another perfume like this one. I think it's one of the best summer perfumes ever released. Please join me in my prayers that the Emilio Pucci brand re-releases this perfume. I could barely afford it to begin with but now it's extra unaffordable with the eBay price hikes as it gets more and more rare. Note about sillage/longevity: not the best lasting on skin, but lasts fairly well on clothes, and is more than an arms length strength.

I bought this I think in 2008, which I remember only because I was wearing it nearly daily and actively when I went on my first date with my now-husband, in mid-2009. I am a 'the greener the better' fragrance person - but not the soapy-green of the transparent fresh fragrance category, rather deep, lush greens with an earthy, forest-y quality. (When I made my own perfume in a class in Paris, it was so loaded with basil and violet, the perfumer kept saying, "More???".) This is a syrupy, unctuous perfume in shades of green. On me, the iris is less powdery than with many other fragrances I've tried. The bergamot sticks around longer than "top note" implies, and it definitely warms on skin and becomes something more like what I associate with ambers - where you can't tell where your skin stops and the fragrance starts. I was wearing this when my husband met me, and to this day, even if months or years have passed, when I put it on he immediately notices and calls it "your perfume" - as in, it made such an impression, though I stopped wearing it when I changed jobs and was in an office every day (it's too intense for office wear), he still recognizes it instantly and thinks of it as my signature scent. (That said, it's not a scent he personally loves... he prefers me wearing more traditional feminine florals.) For me, it's a wonderful modern version of a mid-century "big" fragrance, without the "vintage" hangover. I love oakmoss, but the absence of it here is likely the trick that keeps the dry-down dark green. While not my favorite to smell on clothes or a test strip, it's one of my all-time best to wear. Spritz lightly for warm-weather day wear due to extreme longevity and sillage that intensifies in the sun/heat.

Purchased after I tried it on via a fragrance strip in the Nordstrom catalog. This fragrance is VERY unusual - I ALWAYS get compliments and comments when wearing. I am very very PICKY about fragrance and have very few that make the "favorite" category, but this is one! The strongest evidence for me was when my husband, who NEVER notices or says he likes my fragrances consistently comments how much he loves this one! I love the sparkling top notes on this, perhaps citrus-y at first, but the base notes and drydown have a strange, synthetic smell, reminds me of Vaseline, kind of petroleum-y. Sounds horrid, I know, but that strange murky base is what offsets the sweeter, brighter top notes and keeps this fragrance sophisticated and interesting. I believe without the unusual base notes, it would be just another citrus-y, bland and disappearing scent. IMHO, very unique and feminine with the right balance of edginess. Perfect for office /daytime wear, as it will definitely be noticed, but not overpowering and cloying. Wears very nicely - I don't have to reapply and can still smell it at the end of the day. Doesn't scream HEY LOOK AT ME I'M SEXAAAAAY.....rather just affirms your sexiness with understated confidence and femininity.

MY SHAILAAA 😩😩😩 This is THE sweet green scent imo - my mum got gifted an half empty bottle from a friend who didn't want it anymore and when I TELL YOU it's addicting, I'm not joking. Now it only has very few drops of juice remaining and I forbid my mum or grandma from getting too close to it, let alone reach for it and wear it!! I'm so sad it got discontined in 2008 or I would've definitely gotten a bottle - galbanum, orange blossom and vetiver are the protagonists of this incredible bouquet: it's very green but not in a sharp way - it's got hints of honey somehow?? and it'd delicious! Definitely not a crowd pleaser as many people may be offput buy its unique scent amalgamation - it's not a floral, it doen't have ambers or musks on it, no animalics... it's uniquely Vivara! The patchouli is not prominent on my nose, and my skin doens't pick it up much, if not at all. All in all, this is a scent very dear to me and which I fell in love with at first sniff 💚

Simply put, this one makes me gloriously happy. At first spray it is fresh (citrus?), oceanic, floral, and a breath of spicy all at once. It's uplifting and exceptional. The next phase I am not so crazy about. It's full of bright/white florals but it's sharp. Fortunately it's on to its next phase very quickly. The sharpness of the floral tones down when warm amber and sandalwood notes come in then it lingers there w a touch of sweetness. This perfume makes me think of running in the warm sunshine, with the wind in my hair, barefoot at the edge of the ocean with the cool but refreshing water kissing my feet. In a word, euphoric. I absolutely treasure scents that can transport me like this one does.