Essenza di Zegna

This was my first Zegna fragrance of several I subsequently have acquired. Purchased back in 2010 (at $24 for 50ml!) and went through a whole bottle as my go-to office scent. Hadn’t worn it in a while, recently bought it at a reasonable price online, and it’s just as nice as I remembered. This is quite different from the uplifting, neroli/bergamot-focused offerings I usually gravitate toward. Think more Milanese businessman than laid back Amalfi coast vibe. It starts out as an aromatic sour citrus with a leafy, moist, green feel. Where it goes its own way is the infusion of myrtle and cardamom that wrap it in an herbal and slightly spicy envelope. Reminds me of my beloved Gucci Nobile, but toned down about 70%. Apparently myrtle is found throughout the Mediterranean and has been used in traditional European herbalism so it makes for an interesting but not completely discordant pairing. The overall feeling is somewhat minimalist, a bit austere, but incredibly refined, masculine and intriguing, a true Mediterranean exotic affair. It’s a linear scent, doesn’t evolve much, is not a projection monster nor especially long-lasting, but wow, this is enjoyable.

If 'woody-spicy' is a category or genre, then Essenza di Zegna is firmly anchored in the 'woody-lightly spiced' category. Released in 2003 and an old favourite of mine, Essenza was a fresh, zingy, yet soapy woody accord that was delicately kissed with cardamom. The gentle spices were never overpowering or cloying and the scent never went too far down the citrus route. There is a bergamot note in the opening but it is quite subdued. The dry down is a luscious soapy and powdery vetiver, with some amber and musk. The blend is nicely woven together and therefore not one note stands out above the rest. The overall accord comes across as soapy, but it is easy to wear and smooth (this coming from one that hates powdery notes is a major positive point). The scent lasts a full working day and doesn't tend to go unnoticed. Top marks all round. Just a shame it was discontinued and the asking prices for those few bottles out there is astronomical.

I absolutely love this stuff! I don’t get any kind of aquatic vibe from this at all. It’s really very green and fresh with a hint of fruity sweet & sour thrown into the mix. It’s perfect for daily office use and is extremely unlikely to offend even the most sensitive nose. In my opinion it’s also a versatile scent that can be used for almost any occasion and at any time of the year. As far as the sillage and longevity go, it does stay fairly close to the skin but I use the EDT with the shower gel and after shave balm; so it pretty much lasts the whole day on me. FYI; before I purchased this, I first tried it on paper. It was quite a pungent sharp green with almost no hint of the fruity sweet/sour notes. Then when I tried it on my skin, I got a totally different vibe from it. I guess this one has a lot to do with body chemistry, so a friendly word of warning: try before you buy.

I am a big fan of Essenza di Zegna. Been having it since 2005. Aqua di Parma Colonia intesa IS NOT a dupe. Maybe 70%the same, in the same ballpark, but clearly different!! I DON'T like Colonia intense, it's that different. I still have Essenza di Zegna. A fragrance should be judged after it's purpose. If somebody's after atomic bombs, heavy hitters, oud until your lungs fall down, or after all spices in the world in 1 perfume, it's a shame they judge this. Don't judge a fish for not being able to climb a tree. Essenza di Zegna suits an elegant young, fine dressed man, it's a young gentleman's fragrance. Clean, sexy, rich. After hundreds of fragrances, i can say Essenza is in my top 3! They don't do it like this anymore. I wish they make this masterpiece again!

Mix L'Eau d'Issey and Déclaration 50/50 and you end up somewhere around here. A nice and fresh scent for everyday and office use. Not very long lasting though. Edit: This one has really won me over. Its green and slightly "dirty" note is very original and it's actually quite long lasting if you apply generously. Wore it to work one day and was away from my 10 m2 office for ten minutes. When I returned I was greeted by a gorgeous cloud of EdZ, but I was no longer able to smell it on myself. A sneaky beast for sure. If you want an allround fragrance that is both light, inoffensive and refined you won't go wrong with this.